Copper Canyon Bike ride

Jeep

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Got the text from a good friend "Copper Canyon, you in?" I immediately sent a "yes" It was the dead of winter and I didn't even look where it was just knew I had to get the hell out of the grip of winter, or at least something warmer to look forward too. Said friend rounded up a total of 6 for what turned out to be a bucket list ride that we didn't know was going to be. Bikes were hauled down to Phoenix behind a truck and camper destined for a camping trip in Baja, and left in a secure storage yard waiting to be ridden. Pic is getting ready to go out of Phoenix through Nogales.
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My bike is the KTM 690 Enduro, we had a 1190 Adventure, and the rest of the group was BMW R1200 GS and GSA rides, including one rental. We picked up all of our visas and got as far as we could with the import permits online, and had the good fortune of e few guys landing in Phoenix the day before to get everything ready, and jump through the rest of the hoops which were minor but saved a lot of time, the Mexican consulate in Phoenix was VERY helpful and easy to deal with for the balance of the paperwork and information. The ride to Nogales was about the worst part of the ride on the 690, I threw a 16 tooth countershaft sprocket on before we went and I am glad I did, 140 KMH on a 690 for a few hours is enough, especially in the wind, was a little annoying. The border crossing was pretty straightforward and easy to navigate. Once we were though we headed south, the roads good, looked a lot like American farmland to a degree, my GPS was conveniently shutting off every 5 minutes, so I just left it off. That worked great until I blew the turn off and had to do a quick turn around, the beauty of motorcycles and Mexico, you just simply turn around wherever, the median is no match for a 690. After we turned east, the road turned to absolutely pure motorcycle ecstasy, Not really for a knobby tired 690 but I rode it until the ABS was buzzing the brake lever and pedal going into the corners and backed it off a notch, occasionally getting a buzz on the rear brake pedal going into the curves, fast enough for the tires and a lot of fun because of it. The desire for a super moto set up was offset by some pretty vivid memories of my bad history with 900 and 1000CC crotch rockets and hospitals. After an hour or so we arrived in Cucurpe, a small town, with lacking services and we were running low on fuel, EVERYBODY in Mexico will happily point you to the next town for fuel, and the info is what they have, there are fuel pumps there, but off the beaten path they don't always have fuel!
First stop Dentons in Cucurpe, extremely limited spanish on our part, and the same comprehension of english on the hoteliers part had us playing a good game of "figure it out".
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Due to diamond drilling and gold prospecting in the area the place was actually full, except for one room with 10 beds, try to get that across in 2 non meshing languages, thanks to one of the workers who showed up with pretty good english we got it figured out. Was like summer camp! We ate, the food was excellent, which was to become very consistent through the whole trip. No matter where we were, we had great fresh food. Pic of our "dorm".
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And a little brown scorpion in the shower, I picked him up and put him outside.....right after I flattened him.
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Jeep

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The next morning we had a great breakfast and made tracks to Banimichi, hoping to hit a fuel supply, the roads were great, not dirt but super twisty and beautiful pavement, scenery was getting better too.
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My bike, before extensive on the road mods.
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One of the many extravagant shrines on this route, no matter where we were.
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We made Banimichi only to discover that the Pemex was out of gas, there was diesel, but no gas. At this point I was on fumes, and on of the 1200's and the 1190 were pretty close too. I packed a Rotopax 4 later can and Bruce had a 1 litre container so we decided to split the fuel among the low bikes and keep on riding. 2 towns later we got fuel, 2 of us would have been walking if it wasn't for the extra fuel carried. After fuel we grabbed some lunch at a taco stand in Anaconchi, where we discovered some gear oil on one of the 1200's rear wheel, couldn't figure out if a leak sprung up or it was just venting from possibly being overfilled. Luckily enough there was a Massey Ferguson implement store right across the street and of the very small inventory the was a 4 litre jug of 90 weight gear oil on the shelf....problem solved. Full of fuel, taco's and gear oil we made tracks.
 

Jeep

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I have a friend, who had just returned from a trip pretty close to ours 5 days before we departed. He was traveling in a group of 3, one being a missionary who worked around Creel. I spoke with him while I was heading down and he said they had seen a lot of cartel activity and got held up when their group got separated a little too far, he was a little uncomfortable with it but never felt like he was in danger, but they felt uncertain enough in Yecora that they decided to get out of there to avoid anything. And with our habit of stopping a lot, relatively short riding days, 8 hours was a long day in the saddle as this was a relaxing trip, we landed in Yecora right about the time we figured we should be shutting down. We took a quick trip through town after fueling up, and it was pretty quiet for the most part. Yes, there was one 8000 square foot California inspired mansion that was completely out of place, right across from a hotel with a compound like layout, parking lot full of federal and municipal police vehicles, Escalades, H2's, etc. All kind of out of place, but we got it, found a nice clean hotel about 6 blocks away, and called it good. Again food was excellent, and we had a good rest.
Hotel in Yecora
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Street in Yecora, pretty clean little town.
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Town center, we found these to be the hub of activity on a lot of nights.
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AND the first on the road mod for the trip! I thought $500 for a Seat Concepts seat was ridiculous before I left and would have paid twice as much until I discovered a $10 backpack pillow was the relief my butt needed from what I call the KTM "blade".
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Jeep

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After breakfast in Yecora we kept on the main road to Maicoba, rather than staying on the main road we decided to take a shorter but rougher route through Moris to Ocampo. Leaving Maicoba the road looks like a really bad driveway, complete with water crossings. Shortly after we hit the dirt road I took the tail position, and I had a blacked out Escalade in my mirror, about 100' behind me. I figured we must have got some interest from the local business community, the road got pretty rough and they stayed pretty close, I pulled over into pullout with a shrine and waved them by, they just pulled in and stopped, I carried on. 2 minutes later they were in my mirror again, they followed us for about a half hour, figuring out we were just passing through. The little town of Moris just kind of pops out of the dirt, we stopped there for lunch and the restaurant was an impeccable little place, again good food. Lots of locals slowing down to check out the bikes but that's about it. From there we carried on through the Ocampo mine site, we just rode through a very active, very large gold mine from the back side. We got to a security gate that had a heavily armed guard and he just waved us through.

Road from Maicoba to Moris.
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Road to Ocampo before the mine. After the mine the road was spectacular as was the scenery. The pic is of the backside of a tailings pile, the front side used to be a mountain, about half gone in the quest for gold. It was getting late and really cooling off so we moved a little quicker.
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Ocampo Mine, backside of a tailings pile.
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From Ocampo we were heading to Creel, we were climbing fast and evening was hitting. Too lazy to throw the liner back in my jacket and another layer under it, I toughed it out, and froze my ***** off! Creel was a welcome site, we got a cold response from a nice hill top hotel, but I noticed from the high view point some nice cabins in the distance and we set off. Good choice, room for 6 and a great big fireplace. Good thing cuz we were pretty darn cold!
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Cozy fire to hang out and warm up in front of......with 6 guys.....
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Jeep

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We defrosted our bikes the next morning ad dressed for the cold weather, it was colder in Creel Mexico, than it was in Red Deer Alberta....go figure...7700 feet might have something to do with that .
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I also decided to check my air box before we took off after riding some dirt the day before, KTM builds a great bike, they really need to hire a new air box engineer, I had some very minor amount of dust in the air box. The only thing we could find to use for some grease to help seal the filter to the air box was good old Preparation H.....I was concerned the air filter would shrink and fall inside the air box, maybe PH works as good as KTM's air box and that won't happen...
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Road through Copper Canyon, nice stuff.

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Jeep

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Copper Canyon, on the way to Batopilas

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Some large gravel on the road, this stuff slowed us down a bit! There were a lot of places where the guard rails were pretty punched out too, but by vehicles, saved a few lives I imagine.

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Road to Batopilas, last 25KM were incredible, this was only paved recently, we were looking forward to this still being a dirt road but it was still pretty cool.

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Roads like that help keep the tire wearing all around! The Dunlop 909 gets a little squirrely coming out of the corners when you are this close to the edge of the knobs!

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Jeep

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Batopilas was a gem, beautiful clean little town. We heard of cartel activity and were going to leave our gear in Creel and just day ride it. Super happy that we decided to bring our gear and stay a couple days.

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Hotel Juanita....STAY HERE! Awesome lady, awesome place! Beautiful courtyard right on the river, we rode our bikes through her house to get into the courtyard. She is very accommodating, and like everybody we ran into on this trip, super happy to do so.

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The Beemers were to fat to ride comfortably through a house....KTM won this contest!
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Jeep

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More Batopilas pics, party time in the square, went on late, great music
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Clean streets when the army is around. Seen very little cartel activity but they were there, not real interested in anything we were doing, vice versa.
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Carolina's Restaurant.....awesome.
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Courtyard at Juanitas
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Jeep

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The next day we took off 4 hours out of Batopilas on dirt roads, rocks were tough, shredded a couple of tires pretty good, mine got beat up more in a day than they did the rest of the 10 days we rode! 690 was at home here, some of the roads were just washes that were rivers in the rainy season. Good stuff.
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No cell service.....
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Wash road, the rental bike had pretty smooth skins and was challenged here but persistence led to a swollen ankle in a bucket of ice later that night.
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Break time
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On the trip home we looped through this tiny village, I think it was named Yevo, the road was steep in, and there wasn't a visible tire track anywhere, we thought it would be abandoned
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Not Abandoned! What a surprise, kids are awesome.
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Jeep

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Church, things last a long time without the barrage of a Canadian winter beating it into oblivion....
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Inside view...
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The river that provides life in the canyon...
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Jeep

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The next day we headed back to Creel, we were going to go cross country to Unique but we had a bad ankle with one of the guys and he couldn't stand for long, and the roads were rough, standing required for a lot of it. So Unique would be a day for us. We were able to drop the gear and leave it in Creel which does make riding a little more spirited. The road to Unique is what we were looking for, drops about 6000 feet in 20 KM. The switchbacks were tight, and the grade decent, a couple of spots where the vertical drop was well over 1000 feet and the road was about 20' wide. A few crosses on this section. Unique was another little gem, very clean, brightly painted buildings, brightly dressed people, who were just happy to have us. We stayed away from the seafood on this trip, this far inland, but we walked into this little restaurant for lunch and the owners sone was cleaning a full pail of very fresh looking and smelling prawns, so we had a shrimp enchilada feast, and it was good! After lunch we took a tour through town and made tracks back to Creel. On the way out we passed a propane truck and a school bus coming down the skinny road, bikes made for an easy pass, a truck would have been a bit more fun!

Urique
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Viewpoint, some tourism planned???
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Road to heaven....if your not paying attention..
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EAT HERE!
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Pretty clean little place.
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Jeep

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After spending a night in Creel we made fast work of the road home, we went almost straight north, headed for the Douglas AZ crossing. The roads and scenery were high mountain plains, and not too many curves. We stopped at this little old restaurant on the way home, when we walked in the hombre looked up and yelled "Gringos!" and smiled. We all had a good laugh, while we figured out what we were getting, everything being freshly made and this was arguably the best taco joint on the whole trip. 6 of us ate until we were stuffed, had a lot of fun, and I couldn't believe it when he handed me the tab for 300 pesos, it was too little. I threw a 100 peso tip in for him, and the poor guy almost died, he started giving us ice cream, drinks, etc., the gratitude was incredible, something I am unaccustomed to.

EAT HERE!!!!
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Random pics
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Water falls
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Road to above falls
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Hacienda San Miguel
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Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Still holding air!
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Dually conversion.....
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Short cut somewhere on the way to Brisbee AZ.....
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High Water

Baja Bliss
That looks like a fantastic trip Mark! I made that trip in 2006 and based on the photos everything looks about the same. Thanks for the report!
 

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