NM-Frontier
Explorer
Hey, ProwlerDriver hows the 60 working out for ya? Any updates or observations after driving it for a bit?
Cummins B3.3 Powered FJ60
- Thread starter ProwlerDriver
- Start date
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
Most things have already been said about the motor....
I think it is a great engine of choice though if; you use it for mostly off-roading, you use it as an around town DD, you don't mind doing 65mph on the HWY and taking longer to get somewhere, you don't tow, you don't mind slowing down on grades and you want to play with it such as a veggie conversion.
It has a 2600rpm redline because it is not designed for use in a car/truck. This is a tractor and equipment engine. This is one reason why car/truck diesels redline at 3-4k rpms. I will go ahead and say that I also don't think it is a good idea to run any diesel engine at or near its redline for long periods of time.
Nearly any diesel out there is going to respond well to intercooling. Messing with injection pumps opens up big cans of worms. Factory injection pumps always have a limit to what you can do with them. I am also not really talking about your big 3 full sized truck engines more motors like this B3.3 or Toyota/Nissan/Isuzu diesels. There is only so much fuel you can get out of them. Modifying injection pumps is not only super expensive it takes special skills and tools. It is not for your average builder or truck to start doing custom mods to the IP. You can however increase pop pressure of the injectors which can help things a lot. Keep in mind if you increase fueling even if just by turning up the fuel on the IP your mileage will drop. More fuel also means a hotter running motor. The key with any diesel is getting all the combinations right, ie turbo, amount of fuel, intercooler, amount of air, free flowing exhaust and so forth and in a truck like an FJ60 your drivetrain plus gearing comes into play big time.
If you wanted to you could play with this motor alot but the redline is not going to change. However things like the intercooler, turbo (where it boosts and the rmp range of boost plus how much boost), injectors, upping fuel, cam grind to match mods and free flowing exhaust with the right size dump will do wonders. Also an oil coolers is very good to have on a diesel as well as a nice super effiecent cooling system. I have a Nissan diesel that is about the same size as the B3.3, ie it is an inline-six 3.3 litre. We went as far as to super charge it along with a turbo as well as shave the sump and do an external lubercation system. The motor responed very well to all mods we did. It boosts off the line with the S/C.
I think it is a great engine of choice though if; you use it for mostly off-roading, you use it as an around town DD, you don't mind doing 65mph on the HWY and taking longer to get somewhere, you don't tow, you don't mind slowing down on grades and you want to play with it such as a veggie conversion.
It has a 2600rpm redline because it is not designed for use in a car/truck. This is a tractor and equipment engine. This is one reason why car/truck diesels redline at 3-4k rpms. I will go ahead and say that I also don't think it is a good idea to run any diesel engine at or near its redline for long periods of time.
Nearly any diesel out there is going to respond well to intercooling. Messing with injection pumps opens up big cans of worms. Factory injection pumps always have a limit to what you can do with them. I am also not really talking about your big 3 full sized truck engines more motors like this B3.3 or Toyota/Nissan/Isuzu diesels. There is only so much fuel you can get out of them. Modifying injection pumps is not only super expensive it takes special skills and tools. It is not for your average builder or truck to start doing custom mods to the IP. You can however increase pop pressure of the injectors which can help things a lot. Keep in mind if you increase fueling even if just by turning up the fuel on the IP your mileage will drop. More fuel also means a hotter running motor. The key with any diesel is getting all the combinations right, ie turbo, amount of fuel, intercooler, amount of air, free flowing exhaust and so forth and in a truck like an FJ60 your drivetrain plus gearing comes into play big time.
If you wanted to you could play with this motor alot but the redline is not going to change. However things like the intercooler, turbo (where it boosts and the rmp range of boost plus how much boost), injectors, upping fuel, cam grind to match mods and free flowing exhaust with the right size dump will do wonders. Also an oil coolers is very good to have on a diesel as well as a nice super effiecent cooling system. I have a Nissan diesel that is about the same size as the B3.3, ie it is an inline-six 3.3 litre. We went as far as to super charge it along with a turbo as well as shave the sump and do an external lubercation system. The motor responed very well to all mods we did. It boosts off the line with the S/C.
ersatzknarf
lost, but making time
Thank you for the very thoughtful response. You're right, of course.
I was not clear and was thinking that the B3.3 had a "sweet spot" that it liked...
I was not clear and was thinking that the B3.3 had a "sweet spot" that it liked...
ersatzknarf
lost, but making time
bump for any updates, please ?
Danimal
Adventurer
Can't believe I missed this thread. I'm a huge Cummins engine fan and this is a really neat swap. Thanks for sharing!
Regarding the electronic Tier 4i version of the B3.3 (which I think would be called the QSB3.3):
Dan
Regarding the electronic Tier 4i version of the B3.3 (which I think would be called the QSB3.3):
- There are strict reporting requirements placed upon engine manufacturers with respect to Tier 4 regulations. I'm not sure how easy it would be to get a Tier 4 engine to put in a truck, though I suppose it might be able to be purchased as "Non-Certified".
- The engine is a bit more complex, though I believe Cummins goes to great lengths to ensure this doesn't have adverse effects on reliability. Things like cooled EGR, variable flow turbocharger, coalescing crank case breather. Again, reliable but more...stuff.
- The likely deal breaker for this engine; it can weigh anywhere from 750 - 795 lbs, depending on configuration. This takes away one of the advantages of this engine over the 4BT for Cruiser swaps.
Dan
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ersatzknarf
lost, but making time
Come back safe ! ! !
TangoBlue
American Adventurist
You know what that means... beau coup dollars saved up for more modifications!
ProwlerDriver
Adventurer
I was just googling something for the B3.3 and this post came up! Didnt see all the responses/questions after i went on deployment.
So, i have about 6K on the motor now and its been running great. 27 mpg almost every time. I love it, and i still smile every time i fire it up.
RMP&O has some good points. It is slightly stronger than my 2F was, but very similar driving styles. Hills are slow that is for sure, i live on top of a very steep grade and i know people getting stuck behind me are pissed. He is right on the money 65 mph is top level cruising. Fine by me, i will take that for the mileage i get. I dont even come close to the 2600 redline with the 5 speed. The mechanical rev limiter is set up for 2K anyways so its not an issue.
So the only issues ive had were more with the conversion then the motor. I had to remove the big toyota cleaner and put the K&N (in pic with pre filter) one on there so i could get a larger belt on (the smaller one was WAY too tight and destroyed itself). The brakes and tach began acting funny... jumpy tach and nuetral braking was SCARY. Per advice from Scott at Eco Offroad (thanks man!) i changed the alternator to a new one and bam... all those issues fixed (vacuum pump for brakes is on the alternator). Other than that Proffitts was awesome with helping me as well, though they said they are no longer doing cummins conversions...
With the K&N air filter on there the turbo is LOUD. I was wondering what the hell the noise was when i first changed it out! So more sound proofing is in order for the firewall now, which may or may not ever get done I have taken the dash off twice for various reasons and that is not something i see myself doing anytime soon. Oh well, its not too bad, just a constant turbo whistle, not a band problem to have!
I would do this again given the chance. The motor is all mechanical, good mileage, reliable, simple and keeps me under the speed limit. The motor is made in Japan (I was suprised to read that on the engine badge!), so i dont feel like the cruiser strayed too far from its roots either... If anyone has more questions let me know, im done with deployments, thank god, and i also need to change my user name to growlerdriver. :ylsmoke:
So, i have about 6K on the motor now and its been running great. 27 mpg almost every time. I love it, and i still smile every time i fire it up.
RMP&O has some good points. It is slightly stronger than my 2F was, but very similar driving styles. Hills are slow that is for sure, i live on top of a very steep grade and i know people getting stuck behind me are pissed. He is right on the money 65 mph is top level cruising. Fine by me, i will take that for the mileage i get. I dont even come close to the 2600 redline with the 5 speed. The mechanical rev limiter is set up for 2K anyways so its not an issue.
So the only issues ive had were more with the conversion then the motor. I had to remove the big toyota cleaner and put the K&N (in pic with pre filter) one on there so i could get a larger belt on (the smaller one was WAY too tight and destroyed itself). The brakes and tach began acting funny... jumpy tach and nuetral braking was SCARY. Per advice from Scott at Eco Offroad (thanks man!) i changed the alternator to a new one and bam... all those issues fixed (vacuum pump for brakes is on the alternator). Other than that Proffitts was awesome with helping me as well, though they said they are no longer doing cummins conversions...
With the K&N air filter on there the turbo is LOUD. I was wondering what the hell the noise was when i first changed it out! So more sound proofing is in order for the firewall now, which may or may not ever get done
I have taken the dash off twice for various reasons and that is not something i see myself doing anytime soon. Oh well, its not too bad, just a constant turbo whistle, not a band problem to have!I would do this again given the chance. The motor is all mechanical, good mileage, reliable, simple and keeps me under the speed limit. The motor is made in Japan (I was suprised to read that on the engine badge!), so i dont feel like the cruiser strayed too far from its roots either... If anyone has more questions let me know, im done with deployments, thank god, and i also need to change my user name to growlerdriver. :ylsmoke:
ProwlerDriver
Adventurer
Added a vacuum reservoir (with built in vacuum gauge) for better sustained braking and started doing some stainless lines for vacuum and fuel... im a sucker for a pretty engine. Literally the entire engine bay is new. MC, PS, Brake Booster, every single thing... this 60 should go another 25 years.
ProwlerDriver
Adventurer
Webasto Diesel heater is going in this summer before next winter. I am on the mountain a lot, climbing and skiing and when i get back to the truck it usually very cold and i hate hearing the poor engine start in that. Also (fingers crossed) Campteq will make the camper for the 60 shortly and i will be able to run the heater in the truck with it off.
Question i have for anyone: is an intercooler worth it? I dont tow anything, so proffitts told me i didnt need one during the install, they said the cost wasnt worth the improvement.
Question i have for anyone: is an intercooler worth it? I dont tow anything, so proffitts told me i didnt need one during the install, they said the cost wasnt worth the improvement.
ProwlerDriver
Adventurer
If you cant tell i am crazy picky and huge perfectionist. I knew i was getting the kaymar bumper so i needed a front bumper to match. I called Proffitts and they did an absolutely amazing job recreating the rear bumper for the front. Here are the results:
the Rear:
Cascadia's stonehenge:
the Rear:
Cascadia's stonehenge: