custom camper advice

[maineman]

I'm planning to build a custom cap. In the past, I've always used a high-rise fiberglass truck cap outfitted with ideas borrowed from Bajataco and a customized rear-end tent from Campmor, http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/s...6&storeId=226&catalogId=40000000226&langId=-1, and a tarp beyond that. This has served me well, but I've always thought I could build something more user-friendly than the fg cap. But what is the best skin and frame material for this project? Nida-Core like the SuperCamper? Marine plywood coated in fiberglass? Straight fiberglass or carbon laid over a mold? Or something else? I have good woodworking skills but little fg or welding experience.
Thanks for any help. I always learn a lot on this forum.

 

[Grim Reaper]

If I had the time, skill and was starting from scratch I like the Nida Core. Its structural, Its insulated, Its workable with regular tools and its VERY light for the strength it has.

My second choice money no object would be to start with an aluminum work shell like the ARE. You can order them with tall tops. Stock top is around 23inces on a full size but you can order them with up to 36 inch tops. Then put a storage basket over the cab and side it for extra gear.

You could easily make flip out bunk area under the side opening doors. The double back doors are nice set up or they have a single lift gate without the heavy truck gate at all (full size tail gate is about 30% the weight of a complete top). Being allumunum the weight penalty is not too bad at all. Roof racks are available if you yak or bike. They even have a side insert with fold down work surfaces that would make an instant kitchen.

Click the "build your own" tab and it will walk you through all the option.
http://www.4are.com/product/dcu/

I have been watching a guy convert a 80's 4Runner into a camper here: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=89882
He has some interesting ideas for the project.

I have a spare top for my 86 4Runner and I am trying to figure out how to make it into something like a Flip Pac.

 

[Rather Diesel]

First post.:jumping: Hey! That's my truck in that link!

I JUST found this site, and I sure wish I had found it earlier. I can't tell you how many Google searches I did for "expedition vehicles", and found almost nothing. Two days ago, a link on Pirate sent me here.

You might think I'm nuts, but after reading on this site for the last two days, I walked out to the truck, and gutted all the crap I built INSIDE the rear body. I wasn't happy with the appliances I chose, the floorplan or the weight I added.

I decided to finish all the of the exterior mods, engine swap and body work; then revisit the interior after I'm finished reading this entire site.

******************************************************

To respond to the above question...........after replacing the factory top and the insanely-heavy stock tailgate with the body I made, I bet I added about 200 lbs or so. (just the completed top and rear door) Everything is steel. I chose steel because I have a MIG, not a TIG, and I would rather shoot myself than work with fiberglass. I've never used NidaCore. I just couldn't justify all the extra work and expense with exotics or aluminum ($$$) when steel kept me close to the factory weight. Hope this helps a little.

Roy

 

[Grim Reaper]

First post.:jumping: Hey! That's my truck in that link!

I JUST found this site, and I sure wish I had found it earlier.
Roy

Well update the YotaTech thread! Got to see what you did

Not a lot attracts me to YotaTech but I do check for updates on your thread.

I figured you know about this place. Awesome site.

Most sites are overkill on the Rock Crawling these days. Its fun but not what I want to do these days. Working three weekends to wheel your truck one and screw it up has lost its appeal. I ever get the hankering to do it again Its full on buggy. Its just to much to do with a bodied truck.

 

[Rather Diesel]

I hear what you're saying. There's not much rock-crawling in Maryland. I may just start and finish the build thread here since there are more folks doing what I'm doing, and the advice will probably be backed with more experience. No disrespect to Yotatech.

I actually "finished" the rear body today. I had to plate up the ramp I made inside, and fab plates and flooring where the auxillary tank filler goes thru the rear floor. After cutting out all the stuff I built for the back, I went in and doubled the number of welds holding the rear body panels together.

It will stay in primer while I build the rest of the truck, read this site and plan the new interior.

Roy

 

[maineman]

I hope you do transfer your thread to this site. I am very impressed with how ambitious your project is, but I don't spend a lot of time on the other more 4wheelin' sites. I'm mostly a reader on this site, but these guys really know their stuff. I've learned a lot.
I'm hoping to get more opinions on material choices.

 

[SuperCamperos]

Nida core is great stuff. You get the frame, skin, and insulation in one piece. The cost really isn't too bad, around $200 a 4' x 8' sheet. Working with fiberglass isn't too terribly hard, but very itchy, especially when doing the cuts. You must have a 8" disk sander and know how to use it, if you want the seams to look good. Orbital or belt sanders won't cut it. If the design has purely 90 degree angles, you can hide all the seams with aluminum angle which cuts down on sanding time and gives some impact resistance. The Turtle Expedition and the Earth Roamer prototype seemed to use aluminum framing with the nida core bonded in--and not glassing the seams. Makes for more difficult frame, but less resin work.

Fiberglass laminated marine plywood seems like it would be too heavy with less insulating qualities.

Same goes for using fiberglass in a mold. You need a lot of glass to get the thickness for rigidity. Using Carbon fiber would just compound this problem. Fiberglass actually ends up being stiffer than carbon for the same weight because the additional thickness is helping you more than the stiffer modulus of the carbon. and carbon is way too expensive and difficult to work with.

Welded aluminum frame would be a good option, but you need to know how to weld, and aluminum is more difficult than steel, it seems.

I can give you some tips on using fiberglass if you decide to go that route...

 

[maineman]

I think you guys are right--Nida-core is the way for me to go. But I have a few more questions: Can I get away with just glassing the seams and not covering the whole field of each panel? Does the riveted/bolted aluminum angle add much strength? Will the Nida-core work as a floor (support my weight) if the framing members are two feet on center? Which thickness?
I'm sure most of these answers are available on the amazing supercamper site, but my computer connection here is so slow, it would take about a week and a half to download.
Thanks a lot for any and all advice.

 

[SuperCamperos]

You can buy the nida-core pre laminated as sheets. So all you have to do is make your cuts with a skil saw, sand down all edges to prep for the resin, and then glass your seams. Then you have to sand your seams down to blend. Its easy if you know fiberglass, but if you don't you might want to buy some small quantity supplies and do some testing to see what you are getting yourself into.

The aluminum angle will beautify corners and add impact resistance, but will not strengthen the body as a whole. Fiberglass is way stiffer than aluminum. Loads always take the stiffest path. Your glassed seams will break before the aluminum will be able to give it any support. It would be there as backup, however, if the glass does break.

We used 1-1/4" thick nida core with 18 oz fiberglass each side and its plenty strong for a floor. Just cover it with some thin carpet to take point loads--stepping on a small pebble over it would crack locally. Our walkway has about a 2' x 5' span supported around the perimeter and there is no worry of it not being strong enough.

 

[KMR]

I hear what you're saying. There's not much rock-crawling in Maryland. I may just start and finish the build thread here since there are more folks doing what I'm doing, and the advice will probably be backed with more experience. No disrespect to Yotatech.

I actually "finished" the rear body today. I had to plate up the ramp I made inside, and fab plates and flooring where the auxillary tank filler goes thru the rear floor. After cutting out all the stuff I built for the back, I went in and doubled the number of welds holding the rear body panels together.

It will stay in primer while I build the rest of the truck, read this site and plan the new interior.

Roy

Very cool build.
I just took a quick look at your pics (you know, the important stuff) kinda reminds me of this rig a bit.

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5499&stc=1&d=1170192298

and for interior ideas I would take a look at http://www.toms-fahrzeugtechnik.de/Umbauten.htm
very cool stuff like this:
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5500&stc=1&d=1170192661

Not to Hi-jack the thread, but I think these still fit with the original camper ideas topic.

 

[cmilleraz]

I came across this stuff (nidacore) several years ago. A friend in the college of egineering was using it to make a shell for their homebuilt formula race car. If you get the unlaminated core they are remarkably flexible and take shape very easy, then once glassed, or in their case, carboned, they are incredibly strong for their weight. this might allow you to make smooth transitions between the pre-laminated panels...

 

[DenCo40]

Nida-core

Where do you get it?

 

[SuperCamperos]

http://www.nida-core.com/english/index.htm

 

[DenCo40]

Nida core

Thanks!!

 

[j_nigrelli]

nida core bonder

if anyone needs it:

http://www.nida-core.com/english/promotions_nidabond.htm

and "qualifies"