Custom camper friendly truck bed..
- Thread starter pawleyk
- Start date
pawleyk
Running from Monday..
I'd like to deck the bed in 3/4" ply of some sort. I'm not really a wood guy though so I'm open to suggestions on what type.
I just want something easy to replace when it gets beat up and easy to remove when I want to get at all the usually hard-to-reach stuff under the truck.
I just want something easy to replace when it gets beat up and easy to remove when I want to get at all the usually hard-to-reach stuff under the truck.
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
In this application Id advise something more along the lines of an alloy sheet, with countersunk holes for mounting screws.
It would be extremely rugged, lightweight, and allow easy removal if needed.
You could even do it in a few panels, if you are worried about keeping access under the bed a bit easier.
A good marine grade ply would work, but you'd have to have one heck of a coating on it on the underside especially in the wheel well.
Rocks and debris from the tires would beat it up pretty fast, allowing moisture intrusion.
It would be extremely rugged, lightweight, and allow easy removal if needed.
You could even do it in a few panels, if you are worried about keeping access under the bed a bit easier.
A good marine grade ply would work, but you'd have to have one heck of a coating on it on the underside especially in the wheel well.
Rocks and debris from the tires would beat it up pretty fast, allowing moisture intrusion.
pawleyk
Running from Monday..
Damn. Literally just started cutting on the ply I bought..
Oh well, it's cheap (ish) and easy. I hadn't even thought of it getting beat up from the underside..
Guess I'll just treat it and run it for a while and see how things shake out.
The wheel well's will be alloy and probably bed-linered though, so I've got that going for me.
pawleyk
Running from Monday..
I'm just going to bolt marine plywood down so it'll be easily removable. Lots of access!
1stDeuce
Explorer
Actually, you'll have to get the camper off anyway to do the fuel pump w/o dropping the tank... At that point, you remove the fasteners on the driver's side, and loosen the ones on the pass side, and just tilt the whole bed. Easy enough.
I'm building a flatbed for a similar truck. I used steel square tube... 2x3/16 for the frame runners, and 2x1/8" for the cross tubes. Just about to pick up the 1/8" diamond plate flooring. I'm sure the tube construction stiffens up the truck frame a little, but there isn't much flex on these trucks anyway. I doubt I'll be rock crawling that much, so I just hard mounted it via the old box bolt-down locations, plus one in the middle to support the gooseneck.
Picture for your viewing pleasure. (There are a few more available showing the mounting if you click on this one.)
Keep up the good work!!
Chris
I'm building a flatbed for a similar truck. I used steel square tube... 2x3/16 for the frame runners, and 2x1/8" for the cross tubes. Just about to pick up the 1/8" diamond plate flooring. I'm sure the tube construction stiffens up the truck frame a little, but there isn't much flex on these trucks anyway. I doubt I'll be rock crawling that much, so I just hard mounted it via the old box bolt-down locations, plus one in the middle to support the gooseneck.
Picture for your viewing pleasure. (There are a few more available showing the mounting if you click on this one.)
Keep up the good work!!
Chris
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pawleyk
Running from Monday..
I'll snag a pic of my build at lunch and toss it in here just for fun.
Keep up the good work!!
Chris
Please do, I'd love to see it.
I've done it that way by myself on a 2000 chevy, works great. It might not work on a flatbed with boxes underneath the bed and other clearance issues. Since he is making the bed out of plywood , it wouldn't take much to cut or bust through it. I would rather have a door for easy access .
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
Not sure about the GMC/Chevy
But I can (and have) get to the topside of the tanks to replace the sending units (no in tank fuel pump on mine) without even removing the bed.
Turns out to be a HUGE benefit to a flatbed over a regular bed.
The front is a snap, being a side tank with plenty of space between it and the drive shaft.
The rear, well, you have to be a bit "bendy" and be REAL comfortable with the rear diff against your back to do it.
But its possible.
A few pics of the bed rebuilt and modification for a 3-point torstion free setup:
And done, minus the under body boxes
But I can (and have) get to the topside of the tanks to replace the sending units (no in tank fuel pump on mine) without even removing the bed.
Turns out to be a HUGE benefit to a flatbed over a regular bed.
The front is a snap, being a side tank with plenty of space between it and the drive shaft.
The rear, well, you have to be a bit "bendy" and be REAL comfortable with the rear diff against your back to do it.
But its possible.
A few pics of the bed rebuilt and modification for a 3-point torstion free setup:
And done, minus the under body boxes
pawleyk
Running from Monday..
Actually, you'll have to get the camper off anyway to do the fuel pump w/o dropping the tank... At that point, you remove the fasteners on the driver's side, and loosen the ones on the pass side, and just tilt the whole bed. Easy enough.
I'm building a flatbed for a similar truck. I used steel square tube... 2x3/16 for the frame runners, and 2x1/8" for the cross tubes. Just about to pick up the 1/8" diamond plate flooring. I'm sure the tube construction stiffens up the truck frame a little, but there isn't much flex on these trucks anyway. I doubt I'll be rock crawling that much, so I just hard mounted it via the old box bolt-down locations, plus one in the middle to support the gooseneck.
Picture for your viewing pleasure. (There are a few more available showing the mounting if you click on this one.)
Keep up the good work!!
Chris
That looks awesome. Neat to see another bed with wheel wells out there..
I'm looking forward to seeing the completed product.
pawleyk
Running from Monday..
Didn't make any progress on this project this weekend, I had to make a surprise run to Wyoming.
Tonight I'll be fabricating the plywood mounts and bolting it down. I'm thinking of covering the ply in this stuff- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0U0IR...olid=CXEL4I4FT0NA&coliid=I3BIGV2UDZDUYH&psc=1
For the bed mounts I'm thinking that the front four mounts will be hard-mounted to the frame with stainless hardware and some rubber to isolate the steel from the aluminum. The rear four mounts will have springs below the bed that the mounting bolts will run through. It won't eliminate flex in the bed, but should reduce it a lot. From the research I've done a lot of different people build floating mounts a lot of different ways. Everything from the articulating 3-points like IdaSHO's and on the Isuzu's, to spring mounts all around, to my plan with just one end floating.
It seems like everything works, just depends on the level of flex you've got. As you guys pointed out, I don't have tons of frame flex, but I like the idea of relieving a little of the stress on the bed.
I was considering the full on spring mount, but just can't get over how the camper will pull on the bed around corners. It seems like a full four-corner floating bed would tip sideways each time I corner or when I'm on a sidehill..
Another option, if I think the rear springs don't give me enough flex, or if they bind the bed up in some weird way, is to put springs on the very front mounts too. After that, if I still need more freedom I think I'd build some sort of pivoting mounts, similar to IdaSHO's front mounts and install them in the mount location just behind the fronts. That should allow for flex along the frame, without letting the camper pull the bed around too much.
I'm just not sure that much movement would be necessary for what I'm doing..
Not sure if you guys can make any spring recommendations. There are tons of options.. They're pretty cheap though, so If I have to do a little trial and error its not a huge deal. I figure I won't need anymore than an 1" of travel or so out of each spring.
Tonight I'll be fabricating the plywood mounts and bolting it down. I'm thinking of covering the ply in this stuff- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0U0IR...olid=CXEL4I4FT0NA&coliid=I3BIGV2UDZDUYH&psc=1
For the bed mounts I'm thinking that the front four mounts will be hard-mounted to the frame with stainless hardware and some rubber to isolate the steel from the aluminum. The rear four mounts will have springs below the bed that the mounting bolts will run through. It won't eliminate flex in the bed, but should reduce it a lot. From the research I've done a lot of different people build floating mounts a lot of different ways. Everything from the articulating 3-points like IdaSHO's and on the Isuzu's, to spring mounts all around, to my plan with just one end floating.
It seems like everything works, just depends on the level of flex you've got. As you guys pointed out, I don't have tons of frame flex, but I like the idea of relieving a little of the stress on the bed.
I was considering the full on spring mount, but just can't get over how the camper will pull on the bed around corners. It seems like a full four-corner floating bed would tip sideways each time I corner or when I'm on a sidehill..
Another option, if I think the rear springs don't give me enough flex, or if they bind the bed up in some weird way, is to put springs on the very front mounts too. After that, if I still need more freedom I think I'd build some sort of pivoting mounts, similar to IdaSHO's front mounts and install them in the mount location just behind the fronts. That should allow for flex along the frame, without letting the camper pull the bed around too much.
I'm just not sure that much movement would be necessary for what I'm doing..
Not sure if you guys can make any spring recommendations. There are tons of options.. They're pretty cheap though, so If I have to do a little trial and error its not a huge deal. I figure I won't need anymore than an 1" of travel or so out of each spring.
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
Truth be told, this was one factor I had trouble letting go of as well, and ultimately deciding that a 3-point pivot was superior.
It simply seems more secure and predicable in my eyes.
pawleyk
Running from Monday..
Finally got around to fabbing up the inner-fenders.
It was another thing for me to learn on this project. I've never really worked with sheet of any kind, let alone aluminum. Turns out the brake I built works as intended and that my little cordless skill saw is almost perfect for cutting this stuff.
The fenders, bedsides, and boxes will all be made from 1/8" aluminum sheet. Now that I've started working with it, I'm pretty happy with the choice. Its pretty light, but also plenty stout. Especially when boxed in. I wondered if I'd need any sort of internal framing for the boxes, but I'm positive they'll be self-supporting now.
Today I'll run out and set the camper on it, just to be sure of where I want to build the tie downs and if any bracing will be necessary.
Tailights and bedsides for this weekend, hopefully.
I've also got a new ViAir on the way so I'll have that to install too. Trying to get as far as possible before Northwest Overland Rally this year..
It was another thing for me to learn on this project. I've never really worked with sheet of any kind, let alone aluminum. Turns out the brake I built works as intended and that my little cordless skill saw is almost perfect for cutting this stuff.
The fenders, bedsides, and boxes will all be made from 1/8" aluminum sheet. Now that I've started working with it, I'm pretty happy with the choice. Its pretty light, but also plenty stout. Especially when boxed in. I wondered if I'd need any sort of internal framing for the boxes, but I'm positive they'll be self-supporting now.
Today I'll run out and set the camper on it, just to be sure of where I want to build the tie downs and if any bracing will be necessary.
Tailights and bedsides for this weekend, hopefully.
I've also got a new ViAir on the way so I'll have that to install too. Trying to get as far as possible before Northwest Overland Rally this year..