Did my first Scene Light conversion to LED tonight.
I Used These Lights;
Luyed LEDs
Partially disassembled Whelen Scene light;
I unbent the leads on the Halogen bulbs in the light, and carefully removed them from the reflector. Once the bulbs were out, I used a 3/32nds drill bit to enlarge the lead holes to accept insulated 16 gauge wire.
I cut some pieces of Blue and Orange wire (It's what I had around) about 4" long, and stripped about 1/4" at each end.
There are no markings I could find on the LEDs for positive and negative, so the next step was to figure out the leads, I did that using a harbor freight battery trickle charger. Once I did that, I soldered the wires to the appropriate leads on the bulbs.
I then fed the wires through the holes, and pulled them through until the bulbs were seated in the sockets. Then I bent the wires in to the wire slots on the back of the reflector.
I repeated the process for the other bulb, and stripped the original whelen light connector, then soldered all the leads together. I then put heat shrink on the soldered connections.
At this point I bench tested the light to make sure all my connections were good;
After making sure all my wiring was good, I hot glued down all my wiring;
I then reinstalled the light into the original housing on D.O.A., I also took this opportunity to replace the factory screws in the housing with #10 x 1" Stainless Steel sheetmetal screws.
And here is the result;
The light closest to the camera is the new LED setup, while the further light is the original halogen. In my shop, it looks like the LEDs are not as bright, but still plenty bright for lighting the area under the Awning, , I think that will be fine since I won't be working scenes 200 yards from the Ambo. This reduces the power consumption from 54 watts to 3 watts per scene light fixture, and I won't be worried about melting my awning with them.
Total cost for the conversion is $2 per fixture for bulbs, plus solder, heat shrink, glue and wire.
