Not at all! Mine is 7' in length. Plenty of extra room and I'm 6'4"
Dawson's M-416 Build
- Thread starter dawsonc61
- Start date
Not at all! Mine is 7' in length. Plenty of extra room and I'm 6'4"
OK, I got a few things done tonight. I had to relocate the high-lift jack to the front of the trailer. It was too much weight for the gas springs to lift.
Here are a few shots of the plumbing of the water system. I used pneumatic components to allow for quick disconnecting.
The outflow from the shurflo goes to a male pneumatic junction through the wall of the trailer.
The male end is located just under the front of the trailer.
and connected to the camp kitchen.
the sprayer on the counter top.
It puts out pretty good pressure! I was impressed. It's more pressure than my kitchen sink!
Here are a few shots of the plumbing of the water system. I used pneumatic components to allow for quick disconnecting.
The outflow from the shurflo goes to a male pneumatic junction through the wall of the trailer.
The male end is located just under the front of the trailer.
and connected to the camp kitchen.
the sprayer on the counter top.
It puts out pretty good pressure! I was impressed. It's more pressure than my kitchen sink!
Titanpat57
Expedition Leader
Damn you Adam...all I can think about the last two days is converting the front of mine for a tank and a figuring out a pump location.....hope your happy!:drool:
Now you just cost me about 150$ Please provide a home address so I can mail the bills....lol
Good job!!! :victory: Pat
Now you just cost me about 150$ Please provide a home address so I can mail the bills....lol
Good job!!! :victory: Pat
Box Rocket
Well-known member
You know.....he hung around with Eve and its his fault any of us do anything stupid, or spend money we shouldn't.
Nice work on the plumbing. I'll be using some of your ideas. Also will be copying your rear stabalizers too.
Titanpat57
Expedition Leader
Opps..sorry..got cornfused following too many builds:Wow1:
So I'm finally starting on the electrical system. I went by Harbor Freight and picked up this trailer tongue box. It is very sturdy, has a strut, and locks! This is where the battery charger, yellow tops, inverter, and fuse panel will be housed. It will supply power to the water pump, fridge, flood lights, and the inverter.
It was a little wider than the space in between the tub and the front of the tongue. So instead of bolting it down on the uneven surface I just bought some nylon spacers (1/2") and put them in between the box and the trailer frame. now it sits above the lunette housing by about 1/4" if that makes any sense.
Then I got a hole saw and cut out a hole in the box and in to tub and secured two barbs in the holes. Once this was done I attached some plastic electrical conduit. This is where the electrical wires will go from the trailer to the box. My only concern is that the tube might get caught by a tree branch and get ripped off. I'll just have to keep an eye on it. The tubing has a very thick wall and doesn't budge.
Next up is fabricating some brackets to hold the slides for the ARB fridge/freezer (Ohh yeah, I forgot to mention that I won a new 50 qt. ARB fridge/freezer in the LSJC members raffle!?!?!?). The slides will allow the fridge to slide out the rear of the trailer. I want to do this so I can open the tailgate and have access to the fridge without having to lift the trailer lid (problematic when the tent is open!). I'm going to bend up some aluminum and use that as a tray to set the fridge in. Then I'll use turnbuckles and hooks to secure it to the tray. I'm probably not explaining myself very well but I'll post up more pics in the next few days so it'll make more sense.
Thanks for looking,
D
It was a little wider than the space in between the tub and the front of the tongue. So instead of bolting it down on the uneven surface I just bought some nylon spacers (1/2") and put them in between the box and the trailer frame. now it sits above the lunette housing by about 1/4" if that makes any sense.
Then I got a hole saw and cut out a hole in the box and in to tub and secured two barbs in the holes. Once this was done I attached some plastic electrical conduit. This is where the electrical wires will go from the trailer to the box. My only concern is that the tube might get caught by a tree branch and get ripped off. I'll just have to keep an eye on it. The tubing has a very thick wall and doesn't budge.
Next up is fabricating some brackets to hold the slides for the ARB fridge/freezer (Ohh yeah, I forgot to mention that I won a new 50 qt. ARB fridge/freezer in the LSJC members raffle!?!?!?). The slides will allow the fridge to slide out the rear of the trailer. I want to do this so I can open the tailgate and have access to the fridge without having to lift the trailer lid (problematic when the tent is open!). I'm going to bend up some aluminum and use that as a tray to set the fridge in. Then I'll use turnbuckles and hooks to secure it to the tray. I'm probably not explaining myself very well but I'll post up more pics in the next few days so it'll make more sense.
Thanks for looking,
D
rain76king
Adventurer
I have that same tongue box...I think it's a great value for the money. Your trailer makes me jealous. Come up north, would love to see it in action!
Got the fridge in and some electrical work done finally. I welded in some angle iron pieces as brackets for the slides. They aren't quite long enough to get the fridge all the way out but they'll work for now. The price difference between these 24" HomeDepot models ($16) and the 30" ones from McMaster-Carr is like $90. So I'll make due with these till I can find suitable replacements.
Here is the charging outlet, fuse panel, and 10 amp charger.
This is the charging outlet mounted
The 10v charger mounted inside the tongue box
and here is one of my angle iron brackets. I know my welds are ugly but they are really strong. Not half bad for teaching myself in 5 mins! I'm working on making them prettier!
From there I just welded in the other bracket, attached the slides and screwed in a piece of plywood for the base.
I can secure it to the platform with these turnbuckles!
This shows a good angle of how much I can open the fridge lid when the trailer lid is down
But the geniuses at ARB designed the lid hinges to quick release with a firm pull! I love this thing!
Instead of taking apart the fridge's car charger and hard wiring it to the battery I simply wired one of these 12v adapters to my conduit. So now I can keep the car charger for the fridge intact and use it in any vehicle! just plug one end into the fridge and the other here and I'm done!
Still have to wire everything up and run the batteries is parallel, but about 90% of the work is done! Now I'm ready for and awesome camping season!
D
Here is the charging outlet, fuse panel, and 10 amp charger.
This is the charging outlet mounted
The 10v charger mounted inside the tongue box
and here is one of my angle iron brackets. I know my welds are ugly but they are really strong. Not half bad for teaching myself in 5 mins! I'm working on making them prettier!
From there I just welded in the other bracket, attached the slides and screwed in a piece of plywood for the base.
I can secure it to the platform with these turnbuckles!
This shows a good angle of how much I can open the fridge lid when the trailer lid is down
But the geniuses at ARB designed the lid hinges to quick release with a firm pull! I love this thing!
Instead of taking apart the fridge's car charger and hard wiring it to the battery I simply wired one of these 12v adapters to my conduit. So now I can keep the car charger for the fridge intact and use it in any vehicle! just plug one end into the fridge and the other here and I'm done!
Still have to wire everything up and run the batteries is parallel, but about 90% of the work is done! Now I'm ready for and awesome camping season!
D
Expedition.Report
Explorer
Wow I really like where this is headed!!!
Keep it up!!
Keep it up!!
GJStringert
Observer
I know this thread is over a year old, but I just had to say this:
GREAT JOB! That is a quality little trailer you have there. You have inspired me a lot with this. I see a little fabrication project in my near, very near, future.
Thanks for the awesome thread, and the great ideas (I might just "borrow" that water pump configuration of yours...), and I hope you get many, many enjoyable years of performance from that trailer. NICELY DONE!
Regards,
Graham
GREAT JOB! That is a quality little trailer you have there. You have inspired me a lot with this. I see a little fabrication project in my near, very near, future.
Thanks for the awesome thread, and the great ideas (I might just "borrow" that water pump configuration of yours...), and I hope you get many, many enjoyable years of performance from that trailer. NICELY DONE!
Regards,
Graham
wheel adapter ?
I have a quick querstion about your wheel adapters. I am looking to add my JK wheels to my M416 (stock axles) and was wondering what thickness of the adapter will I need. I am thinking I need a 5x5.5 to 5x5 with 2" thickness, does that sound right? Also did you order it where the M416 hole diameter is larger than the 5x5 (JK wheel) center diameter?
I have a quick querstion about your wheel adapters. I am looking to add my JK wheels to my M416 (stock axles) and was wondering what thickness of the adapter will I need. I am thinking I need a 5x5.5 to 5x5 with 2" thickness, does that sound right? Also did you order it where the M416 hole diameter is larger than the 5x5 (JK wheel) center diameter?
Bennyhana
Adventurer
Just have to make sure the thickness of the spacer is thick enough to clear/hide the studs on the 416's hubs. I want to say the hub on the 416 is
4". There is a guy on the 416 yahoo group that has a set up to redrill the stock 416 hubs to a couple of popular lug patterns. his name is Sean.
4". There is a guy on the 416 yahoo group that has a set up to redrill the stock 416 hubs to a couple of popular lug patterns. his name is Sean.