Okay, that will work. I need an electrical compartment for the charger anyway. For weight I am doing poor man's fiberglass over foam with 1x2 reinforcements...
And like I mentioned I need a night stand for my cpap any way...
DC to DC Charging for LifePO4 battery bank.
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Okay, that will work. I need an electrical compartment for the charger anyway. For weight I am doing poor man's fiberglass over foam with 1x2 reinforcements...
And like I mentioned I need a night stand for my cpap any way...
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Some of us did old school beds and drawers in the back of pickups for years.
I'm going simpler in my bed setup. A box with a hinged lid. I have a hi topper camper shell and the idea is to be able to sit up with my legs at a comfortable angle so I can work on my laptop during the day. This gives me ample storage space for 21 gallons fresh water a 5 gallon flushable port o potty, double bagged in black trash bags in case of leak, AND all of my other camping gear.
The big draw and requirement for power really is the CPAP which I have been powering off grid for several years with a group 27 deep cycle lead acid battery in a customized marine battery box that houses switches, USB ports and 12V sockets... Charging thus far has been via the solar panels / charge controller and alligator clips. And the battery stays OUTSIDE due to offgassing.
If it weren't for the need for some place to put my legs, I would have put an RV short queen in the bed of the truck on a boosted roller frame on steel pipes with plywood topper. Super easy to do. And then just short action packers with lines to pull them for drawers. Yeah quick, easy, lazy no build build...
I will have to drop a pic in later after I get some plywood and a piano hinge for the top. I am almost done with the bed build. Residential twin size 6" memory foam mattress, the frame sits a total of 18" and my fat butt can squish the mattress down so sitting in the cap is no problem.
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Go for the thinnest mattress you can. TIP: Lie one the foam, don't kneel. You may find that as little as 2" is plenty. Makes life much easier. Also consider a Froli under mattress, or similar. Lets air circulate, beats mold. (Gulf coast can get soggy.)
You REALLY want to go with a lithium iron battery, especially in a compact rig like yours. Building your own bed box, you could even look at a 280Ah home brew.
Best wishes!
You REALLY want to go with a lithium iron battery, especially in a compact rig like yours. Building your own bed box, you could even look at a 280Ah home brew.
Best wishes!
Okay, battery ordered. Chins 200 amp hour lifepo4. I am going to try with the Atempower DC to DC charger, I might have to do a separate DC to DC charger... We will see...
I have seen more than a few comments RE: this particular battery, and this particular charger with instruction to use the AGM profile for Lifepo4, specifically the Chins Lifepo4...
The battery should arrive around the same time the truck is in the shop getting the new engine put in and seals / hoses replaced. The mechanic has been instructed to insure the truck bumper to bumper is ready to go mechanically. I will handle the body / interior / Infotainment issues...
Since I have the specs on the battery including dimensions, will build the cabinet + about 1" each way for slop, and use high density foam to isolate it from the bumpies of off road on the beach, logging road, or Mexican highway use... Not sure Mexico is a great idea though as I no longer have my interpreter...
I have seen more than a few comments RE: this particular battery, and this particular charger with instruction to use the AGM profile for Lifepo4, specifically the Chins Lifepo4...
The battery should arrive around the same time the truck is in the shop getting the new engine put in and seals / hoses replaced. The mechanic has been instructed to insure the truck bumper to bumper is ready to go mechanically. I will handle the body / interior / Infotainment issues...
Since I have the specs on the battery including dimensions, will build the cabinet + about 1" each way for slop, and use high density foam to isolate it from the bumpies of off road on the beach, logging road, or Mexican highway use... Not sure Mexico is a great idea though as I no longer have my interpreter...
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DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Should work.
Later on, look at these options:
-- REDARC Manager 30, or,
-- REDARC BCDC-1240D.
Either lets you integrate your alternator and solar panels. (There is a whole discussion to be had on this issue, but, for a simpler, smaller set up like yours, it is well worth considering.)
Yes, I am a REDARC phanboi. Others would point you towards Sterling Power. Charlie Sterling (Sr.) was a huge proponent of battery to battery chargers for narrow boats in the UK, back when everybody's alternator put out 13.9v and they were killing lead acid batteries. Charles Jr. runs Sterling Power, USA. Their units are available in larger sizes and have more customizing options. (And bigger size and heat.)
REDARC are Australian and brag that their units are small, dust and vibration resistant and easier to install and customize. All of this is true. (I use three of them on my truck, but for odd 24v to 12v issues.)
Happy shopping:https://redarcelectronics.com/
Later on, look at these options:
-- REDARC Manager 30, or,
-- REDARC BCDC-1240D.
Either lets you integrate your alternator and solar panels. (There is a whole discussion to be had on this issue, but, for a simpler, smaller set up like yours, it is well worth considering.)
Yes, I am a REDARC phanboi. Others would point you towards Sterling Power. Charlie Sterling (Sr.) was a huge proponent of battery to battery chargers for narrow boats in the UK, back when everybody's alternator put out 13.9v and they were killing lead acid batteries. Charles Jr. runs Sterling Power, USA. Their units are available in larger sizes and have more customizing options. (And bigger size and heat.)
REDARC are Australian and brag that their units are small, dust and vibration resistant and easier to install and customize. All of this is true. (I use three of them on my truck, but for odd 24v to 12v issues.)
Happy shopping:https://redarcelectronics.com/
Thin is not on my priority list so much as comfortable. It needs to be as comfortable or more comfortable than my air mattress I have been using in the tent for years. I am a BIG guy with spinal issues, and travel / camping helps me a LOT with physical activities and weight management. Basically I am active enough that even if I eat poorly as long as I am not too crazy with it, I lose weight... FWIW, I have a lot of fussing to do about my Ford, but the main selling point for me other than 4wd when I got it, was VERY supportive seats where I need it, GM, and Dodge didn't have that, and Toyota and Nissan were just getting into the full size pickup market in the US when I got the truck...
So for right now, the electrical configuration will be...
#1. Atempower 20 amp solar charge controller / dc to dc charger. I have verified with Atempower that they recommend the use of the lion profile with Lifepo4 on their US market units.
#2. Chins 200ah lifepo4
#3. Bestek 500w pure sine wave inverter. Never gonna run the AC off of this thing, but need a way to plug in the laptop. The USB C charger is a 100w 110v outlet charger...
#4. 2 12V oulets, 1 power switch, and 2 USB outlets with voltometer installed in the camper / bedroom portion. 1 12V outlet installed in the back seat of the cab of the truck (For the fridge).
#5. Hopefully obviously the alternator providing power / charging while going down the road.
#6. 300w portable solar panel set for charging in camp.
The idea here is to have the 12V available for the CPAP, obviously the fridge running on it, and then a spare in the camper. 110V for the USB C for the laptop, and assuming I can find it, my phone solar charger doing its thing, if not the USB ports from the battery...
At some point down the road, perhaps solar panel density gets higher and cost gets lower and I will need a higher capacity controller, then I can upgrade... Until then run what I can.
For what it is worth, at some point, I will be pulling the camper shell and doing a DIY Project M style camper if not pulling the whole truck bed and doing a flatbed camper... Of course if I could score a 4 wheel camper on the cheap that might change things up a bit too...
So here is the update. USB C charging block is here, and works fine with the laptop, at least with a mid range power profile. I.E. don't ram everything up 100% and game the crud out of it. Never my intent anyway. The idea for this laptop was portable video processing and graphics work.
The solar USB phone charger is AWOL at the moment. I suspect I know vaguely where it is, but not 100% certain and need to do some serious digging to get to it.
Looked at some solar panel setups. Saw something interesting but not sure if it lives up to the marketing hype. Basically 1200w of panels that through some tetris like manuvers would fit on the intended truck camper roof, and leave space for a fantastic fan and a regular roof vent. And no it is NOT cheap...
So might as well start figuring the system out now. With that kind of power / charge capacity, I could fairly easily assuming proper battery bank, run the 5K Window AC AND my fridge and laptop....
To go pretty much ANY past that requires more roof than I will have available.
The solar USB phone charger is AWOL at the moment. I suspect I know vaguely where it is, but not 100% certain and need to do some serious digging to get to it.
Looked at some solar panel setups. Saw something interesting but not sure if it lives up to the marketing hype. Basically 1200w of panels that through some tetris like manuvers would fit on the intended truck camper roof, and leave space for a fantastic fan and a regular roof vent. And no it is NOT cheap...
So might as well start figuring the system out now. With that kind of power / charge capacity, I could fairly easily assuming proper battery bank, run the 5K Window AC AND my fridge and laptop....
To go pretty much ANY past that requires more roof than I will have available.
So I got the TK15 Coulomb Meter delivered today. The wiring description on the box (It didn't include any sort of documentation other than the box) was obviously written by someone that doesn't understand English... So I need to figure out what they are talking about.
I got the 50 amp model, so it looks like a wire comes from battry neg to the + side of the meter board, and then from the - side of the board to ground(?). And then a sample wire from the battery + to the side port + input.
View attachment 745079
I need to figure out how to wire this thing up, I think I have it right but just need to be sure, and then mark out the cutout for the meter, and mount it up in the electrical cabinet.
I got the 50 amp model, so it looks like a wire comes from battry neg to the + side of the meter board, and then from the - side of the board to ground(?). And then a sample wire from the battery + to the side port + input.
View attachment 745079
I need to figure out how to wire this thing up, I think I have it right but just need to be sure, and then mark out the cutout for the meter, and mount it up in the electrical cabinet.
ConcordCarlos1
New member
All the pics are up in the Memorial F150 Craptor thread under Domestic Full Size sub forum...
The monitor is not installed yet, and after testing, and the alternator upgrades, I am upgrading to a 40 amp charge controller / DC to DC charger, so my harnesses will be VERY different. 4ga wire, Anderson connectors etc...
So after considering my needs, options etc... yes I have settled, for now anyway on the following setup.
Atem Power 40 amp Solar charge controller / DC to DC charger. Amazon reviewers say it doesn't work, testing on my own says the Amazon reviews are full of fertilizer.
4ga from truck battery to a 50amp 12v marine stand alone breaker, then to the controller through a set of Anderson connectors.
Truck outfitted with 220amp alternator. Lifetime warranty and it was cheaper than the 160.
For now, single Chins 200 amp hour Lifepo4 battery.
Dokio 300w solar suitcase panel.
Planned future expansion. Second Suitcase panel, SAE to MC4 adapters, cables and Y fitting to get power into the camper via an MC4 weatherproof fitting. Second Chins battery for 400 amp hour total capacity.
This is nowhere near enough power for AC, but will provide more than enough power for the fridge, laptop, CPAP, lighting, furnace and USB charging. And I do not expect heavy furnace usage.
As far as the Coulumb Meter wiring is concerned. So neg post on battery, through Columb meter as shown, to just any old ground it looks like. That is fine. Positive from battery to Columb meter, and sample wire from battery to meter sample wire connection. Shielded wire connects from meter gizmo to display, and life is happy allegedly. Do I have this right?
I opted for the 50 amp meter as recommended as I am using a 40 amp charger. any reason to do differently?
Just an update, the truck is getting some final gremlins chased out of it post engine swap. One of the cam sensors doesn't want to report, or the cam is clocked wrong... That same bank has an exhaust leak on the back port, and lastly, the drivers side hub is noisy, most likely from sitting as long as it has, but replacing it anyway.
So the mechanic did the run for the DC to DC charger, leaving a insulated charging post sort of arrangement for me to hook up to, and he used 0 gauge wire, so long term, I should never need to upgrade that.
I have orphaned the camper shell buildout, in favor of a lightweight slide in pop up that gives me room to stand up. I am probably going to remove the factory fridge in favor of my 12V Alpicool, but I may keep the 3 way just to lessen the electrical load. Don't worry, Alpicool will get used though as I do tend to camp with groups of folks still trying to get by with the cheapest model Igloo coolers...
I am seriously doubtful that the 2 solar suitcases and 400 amp hours of battery can run AC full time, but considering I don't really need it during the day, just so I can sleep, I may be golden with that. Dometic says something like 160 amp hour battery to run 12 hours...
Also considering a pair of semil flexible 300w each panels for the roof. And I know I can get fit 4 of them on the roof, but that puts a huge whole other issue on DC to DC charging and solar charge controllers... Maybe later, see how this works...
Once the camper and truck are back, and mated together / camper tied down, I will get into understanding its wiring, and then do what I need to do to bypass the factory DC to DC charging for the Lithium compatible stuff, route the solar connection, and then set up the battery rig. Lastly install the monitor.
So the mechanic did the run for the DC to DC charger, leaving a insulated charging post sort of arrangement for me to hook up to, and he used 0 gauge wire, so long term, I should never need to upgrade that.
I have orphaned the camper shell buildout, in favor of a lightweight slide in pop up that gives me room to stand up. I am probably going to remove the factory fridge in favor of my 12V Alpicool, but I may keep the 3 way just to lessen the electrical load. Don't worry, Alpicool will get used though as I do tend to camp with groups of folks still trying to get by with the cheapest model Igloo coolers...
I am seriously doubtful that the 2 solar suitcases and 400 amp hours of battery can run AC full time, but considering I don't really need it during the day, just so I can sleep, I may be golden with that. Dometic says something like 160 amp hour battery to run 12 hours...
Also considering a pair of semil flexible 300w each panels for the roof. And I know I can get fit 4 of them on the roof, but that puts a huge whole other issue on DC to DC charging and solar charge controllers... Maybe later, see how this works...
Once the camper and truck are back, and mated together / camper tied down, I will get into understanding its wiring, and then do what I need to do to bypass the factory DC to DC charging for the Lithium compatible stuff, route the solar connection, and then set up the battery rig. Lastly install the monitor.
jonyjoe101
Adventurer
Here is a picture of how I have my tk15 sensor wired, I use xt60 connectors on it. And used 12 gauge on it since I rarely go over 20 amps, this goes on my 220ah lifepo4. I used yellow/pink wire on the positive and brown on the negative.
As far as night time cooling consider a swamp cooler, I had to used mine on hot humid nights and it worked good enough for me. The power use is less than 2 amps/hour since I run it on low.
If using a 12 volt fridge constantly on hot days, you need to vent it to the outside. The fridge produces too much heat through the compressor vents. I would have got rid of mine if I hadn't vent it. The heat from the vent can reach 115f, and all of it goes inside your camper and the compressor on a hot day can run run for over 20 minutes at a time.
Solar and lifepo4 presents another problem if the bms on the battery ever activates. It is something to look at, run all your valuable devices through a 12 volt voltage stabilizer. What happens is when the bms activates the solar controller will produce voltage surges which will destroy fans/pumps/lights anything that can't handle voltage above 14 volts. I encountered these surges and also other people have run into them. That was something that I struggled with when I switch from agm to lithium. Unless you keep the bulk setting on the controller low enough, eventually the bms will be activated. But a low bulk voltage will also charge the battery slowly.
As far as night time cooling consider a swamp cooler, I had to used mine on hot humid nights and it worked good enough for me. The power use is less than 2 amps/hour since I run it on low.
If using a 12 volt fridge constantly on hot days, you need to vent it to the outside. The fridge produces too much heat through the compressor vents. I would have got rid of mine if I hadn't vent it. The heat from the vent can reach 115f, and all of it goes inside your camper and the compressor on a hot day can run run for over 20 minutes at a time.
Solar and lifepo4 presents another problem if the bms on the battery ever activates. It is something to look at, run all your valuable devices through a 12 volt voltage stabilizer. What happens is when the bms activates the solar controller will produce voltage surges which will destroy fans/pumps/lights anything that can't handle voltage above 14 volts. I encountered these surges and also other people have run into them. That was something that I struggled with when I switch from agm to lithium. Unless you keep the bulk setting on the controller low enough, eventually the bms will be activated. But a low bulk voltage will also charge the battery slowly.