Deep Cycle Battery Setup: Your Experience + Why?

[CraftsmanCollaborative]

Haven't modified my electrical system yet on my overland XJ camper, as if i do anything to it I want to redo it all "right" and all at the same time.
Anyways, preapring to purchase everything to start a dual battery setup, in line with a starter battery and charging off of the alternator (soon to be upgraded to the Durango V8 bolt in) and eventually from 200w solar as well.

What batteries have you personally used, and recommend from experience. There is alot of mixed information on the use of a multipurpose or a deep cycle battery for overland application. I've seen many use multipurpose "marine" or "golf-cart" batteries such as the yellowtop optima series, and other go with a full deep cycle AGM such as the Full River.

For use with a constant 12/24v fridge setup, led interior lighting, standard stereo, inverter for laptop/camera, and other low draw interior luxuries. For use (while engine is idling) with an 8000lbs winch, onboard air, led light bars. Connected to the starter battery via a smart solenoid to isolate once it hits a specific voltage. Yes, a lot of the decision will be based upon accounting for my total setup and estimated amp draw, but would like to see what you have all chosen for travel reliability and efficiency. Please list your vehicle, batteries, recharging method (alternator/solar) and pictures would be great to generate ideas. I will read around the forums more, but if you have input as to why one would choose a multi purpose vs deep cycle in this case contribute as well.

Looking forward to seeing your setups and how they've treated you this far.

 

[DailyExpedition]

Well I don’t have a ton of accessories, 3 sets of auxiliary lights, 2 14in auxiliary fans, small stereo amp, and pretty soon I’ll be adding in an inverter. I’m running dual batts, but just standard batteries from, dare I say Walmart. I run Everstart Max. Group 78’s. I chose these because I’ve had them before in other trucks, and they’ve worked pretty good with no issues, and since it’s Walmart they’re freakin everywhere so if there is an issue I just need to find a Wally World. I use a larger 140amp alternator, and 0/1 gauge cabling for all power and grounds. I also use a Stinger 200amp solenoid and a 175 amp megafuse. I also have a bluesea systems fuseblock with both ground and power to run all of my other accessories and systems, I’d take a picture but it’s been raining for the past week almost


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[CraftsmanCollaborative]

Well I don’t have a ton of accessories, 3 sets of auxiliary lights, 2 14in auxiliary fans, small stereo amp, and pretty soon I’ll be adding in an inverter. I’m running dual batts, but just standard batteries from, dare I say Walmart. I run Everstart Max. Group 78’s. I chose these because I’ve had them before in other trucks, and they’ve worked pretty good with no issues, and since it’s Walmart they’re freakin everywhere so if there is an issue I just need to find a Wally World. I use a larger 140amp alternator, and 0/1 gauge cabling for all power and grounds. I also use a Stinger 200amp solenoid and a 175 amp megafuse. I also have a bluesea systems fuseblock with both ground and power to run all of my other accessories and systems, I’d take a picture but it’s been raining for the past week almost


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Simple and effective though, I like it.
Is your solenoid run off of a Hotwire so that the batteries are only connected to charge when the engine is switched on, or is it an automatic voltage sensitive isolator?

Just watched an install video on Bob’s cheaprvliving YouTube in which they installed a standard wired solenoid to only activate with the ignition on and debating going this route.

 

[CraftsmanCollaborative]

Well I don’t have a ton of accessories, 3 sets of auxiliary lights, 2 14in auxiliary fans, small stereo amp, and pretty soon I’ll be adding in an inverter. I’m running dual batts, but just standard batteries from, dare I say Walmart. I run Everstart Max. Group 78’s. I chose these because I’ve had them before in other trucks, and they’ve worked pretty good with no issues, and since it’s Walmart they’re freakin everywhere so if there is an issue I just need to find a Wally World. I use a larger 140amp alternator, and 0/1 gauge cabling for all power and grounds. I also use a Stinger 200amp solenoid and a 175 amp megafuse. I also have a bluesea systems fuseblock with both ground and power to run all of my other accessories and systems, I’d take a picture but it’s been raining for the past week almost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Simple and effective though, I like it.
Is your solenoid run off of a Hotwire so that the batteries are only connected to charge when the engine is switched on, or is it an automatic voltage sensitive isolator?

Just watched an install video on Bob’s cheaprvliving YouTube in which they installed a standard wired solenoid to only activate with the ignition on and debating going this route.

 

[DailyExpedition]

Simple and effective though, I like it.
Is your solenoid run off of a Hotwire so that the batteries are only connected to charge when the engine is switched on, or is it an automatic voltage sensitive isolator?

Just watched an install video on Bob’s cheaprvliving YouTube in which they installed a standard wired solenoid to only activate with the ignition on and debating going this route.

Yea it just has a Hotwire from the ignition, I plan on changing that and wire in a switch in the cab powered from my 2nd battery in case of a dead battery


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[CraftsmanCollaborative]

Yea it just has a Hotwire from the ignition, I plan on changing that and wire in a switch in the cab powered from my 2nd battery in case of a dead battery


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Switch so that if the starter is dead but not the aux it can jump from the aux? I think I’d rather carry jumper cables to jump one from the other and not leave the switch open to forgetting after a long days driving.

 

[DailyExpedition]

Switch so that if the starter is dead but not the aux it can jump from the aux? I think I’d rather carry jumper cables to jump one from the other and not leave the switch open to forgetting after a long days driving.

Yes exactly, easier than jumper cables, plus I wouldn’t have to get out in the rain or mud. The switch will only be used in that instance, it wouldn’t be needed for any other reason


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[jeepdreamer]

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I have been using dual purpose AGMs as house batteries for the last ten years or so and just switched over to true deep cycles for the house. The DP AGMs were Odyssey and then Optima Yellows and Blues, and I was only getting about three years per pair, with minimal use. Main load was an Indel B 50L fridge, but only running on trips. The rest of the time the house batteries were there for backup for winching and self jumping the truck, The true deep cycles that I just installed are from V-Max Tanks, partly because they were well priced (10% discount on your first order and free shipping from Michigan), but mostly because they were the only TDCs that I could find to fit my Grp34 battery boxes. So, first piece of relevant advice: Size your house battery box/space to take something bigger than a Grp 34, such as a 24, 27, or 65 because those sizes are readily available in the TDC market. Second piece of relevant advice: Install more ah than you think you will need, because you will need them at some point. I had previously upgraded my alternator from 160amp to 270amp, thinking that would keep the batteries charged with minimal driving (starting battery was a Grp 31 Odyssey, now switched to V-Max Grp 31 DP). That helped but did not solve problem, because the batteries still needed frequent charging and conditioning from shore power, big PITA. So, next installation will be a 100W solar panel on the roof rack, with controller and switch to let me charge either or both banks, as needed. These things tend to cascade once you get started, so plan ahead (as you seem to be doing).

Truck is a 2005 Power Wagon with three batteries (G31 plus two G34s), solenoid isolator plus a series of Blue Seas rotary switches to control where power is going, 270amp alternator (electrical all wired with 3/0 cable and multiple grounds), big OBA (12 CFM), 12,000# winch, lots of lights (inside and outside), Indel B fridge now replaced with an ARB 50. Recently added master kill switch so I can turn off all parasitic drains but still run fridge if needed. Solar parts are here, figuring out mounting scheme.

 

[Martinjmpr]

You can find my dual battery writeup in the "domestic" section but I went with an X2 Deep Cycle marine/RV battery from Batteries + Bulbs because it was the largest capacity Group 34/78 battery I could find (68 AH.)

https://www.batteriesplus.com/batte...burban-1500/2004/v8-5.3l-600cca/sli34=78agmdp

34/78 means it has both side and top terminals, which are very handy for connecting things. This has been my setup for 2 years and it's worked great. My "house" battery runs through a solenoid so that when the engine is running it is connected to the alternator (145a) and when the engine is off it's isolated from the starter battery so it doesn't draw it down.

This setup also gives me the opportunity to "self-jump-start" by turning on the ignition for a minute or so to let the power go from the house battery to the starter battery, then I just turn the key and start the truck. Finally, it saved my bacon when my alternator went out on a camping trip - even though the main battery was discharging due to the faulty alternator, the house battery was enough to get me home where I could install a new alternator.

Here are some photos of my setup:

 

[DiploStrat]

You may get more traction moving this article to the 12v forum.

https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/power-systems-12v-solar-gen.48/

 

[CraftsmanCollaborative]

@jeepdreamer once again the custom sheet metal fab on this is awesome. What made you do it in the cab instead of under the hood? I have a cowl intake so think I’ll have plenty of room to run one on the driver side bay.

 

[CraftsmanCollaborative]

I have been using dual purpose AGMs as house batteries for the last ten years or so and just switched over to true deep cycles for the house. The DP AGMs were Odyssey and then Optima Yellows and Blues, and I was only getting about three years per pair, with minimal use. Main load was an Indel B 50L fridge, but only running on trips. The rest of the time the house batteries were there for backup for winching and self jumping the truck, The true deep cycles that I just installed are from V-Max Tanks, partly because they were well priced (10% discount on your first order and free shipping from Michigan), but mostly because they were the only TDCs that I could find to fit my Grp34 battery boxes. So, first piece of relevant advice: Size your house battery box/space to take something bigger than a Grp 34, such as a 24, 27, or 65 because those sizes are readily available in the TDC market. Second piece of relevant advice: Install more ah than you think you will need, because you will need them at some point. I had previously upgraded my alternator from 160amp to 270amp, thinking that would keep the batteries charged with minimal driving (starting battery was a Grp 31 Odyssey, now switched to V-Max Grp 31 DP). That helped but did not solve problem, because the batteries still needed frequent charging and conditioning from shore power, big PITA. So, next installation will be a 100W solar panel on the roof rack, with controller and switch to let me charge either or both banks, as needed. These things tend to cascade once you get started, so plan ahead (as you seem to be doing).

Truck is a 2005 Power Wagon with three batteries (G31 plus two G34s), solenoid isolator plus a series of Blue Seas rotary switches to control where power is going, 270amp alternator (electrical all wired with 3/0 cable and multiple grounds), big OBA (12 CFM), 12,000# winch, lots of lights (inside and outside), Indel B fridge now replaced with an ARB 50. Recently added master kill switch so I can turn off all parasitic drains but still run fridge if needed. Solar parts are here, figuring out mounting scheme.

Thanks for the insight. Your plan sounds similar to mine in the long run. I’ll check out the mentioned brand, but definitely leaning for a full deep cycle like the full river line. I’m planning to fit 200w of solar to eventually manage the deep cycle so it has a good power charge available.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I’ll check out the mentioned brand, but definitely leaning for a full deep cycle like the full river line.

V-Max makes both dual purpose and true deep cycle AGMs, as does FullRiver. I looked at the FullRiver line and would not have even found the V-Max, except for the fact that FullRiver did not offer a TDC in a size that would fit my steel battery boxes. FullRiver offers three separate lines of batteries in DP and TDC, apparently all made in China as are the V-Max. V-Max are less expensive than the FullRiver, especially with the 10% discount. If you look around real hard, you can find some reduced pricing on the FullRivers. When I first saw FullRivers in a car audio shop, I was astounded at the local street price, and they seem to be the new flavor-of-the-year for the tuner and boom box crowd, so shop around. The V-Max 34 TDCs that I found took some searching because they are sold as medical device batteries (wheelchairs, etc.), so it's worth a call to V-Max if you don't see what you want on the website.

 

[jacobconroy]

I run a group 31 V-Max. It's been a good battery for the last 12 or 18 months. Haven't tried any other true deep-cycles though.