Wow. I can't believe I just read through 93 pages over two days. What an adventure. This story took my emotions all over he place. I must admit that as I got into the story, I started to become a little miffed at what I thought (wrongly) was a poor attitude from the typical western tourist in a third world country. As I read on and on, that perception changed, and then the wrap up sealed it for me.
I would think "Why not just pay the cops and grease the wheels? That's the way it's done and who are you to change it?" But the way it's written really got me thinking as to what would actually be the proper thing to do. Paying bribes can open a whole new can of problems. Is this really the way it's done, and a part of the "culture", or is it just plain corruption, and a part of the problem? If you start down that road, maybe you're just contributing to the problem...and so on.
I think they did a fantastic job all around.
I especially liked that I would come up with questions, and then those questions would be answered a few posts or pages later. Things like the winch. At first I thought "That's pretty stupid to not have a winch..." But after it was clarified as to why, it actually made perfect sense to me. Not only for the money/time reason, but the fact that deep down, I know first hand how much trouble having a winch can get you in. I was just blind to this, and the OP's answer made me stop and think about it.
Really made me stop and think, and really changed the way I look at a lot of things.
Thank you so much for doing this report. Not just an exceptional report, but a very thought-provoking piece. Bravo.