disconnecting the Wrangler sway bar

[haven]

Here's an article that shows the benefit in increased articulation when you manually disconnect your Wrangler's front sway bar link.

http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtes...-ramp-trip-3-stabilizer-bar-disconnected.html

Result: 6 inches more wheel lift.

This article is one in a series posted by Inside Line editors as they get to know (and modify) a stock Jeep Wrangler Sport, the least expensive Jeep model.

 

[haven]

The blog keeps track of the expenses and effects of the upgrades. For example, replacing the stock wheels and tires with BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM2 radials, size LT 285/70R17 on Mopar 17-by-8.5-inch aluminum rims cost ($265 + $259) * 5 = $1560. Reprogramming the speedometer to match the new tires cost $52. Swapping the TPMS sensors from the old rims to the new ones was a possibility, but the editors chose to buy new ones for $192. Installing and balancing the wheels again cost $105. (Total of this paragraph: $1909)

Other reports about the new, more aggressive tires: Ground clearance is up almost 2 inches. Road noise is about the same, but the primary source of noise is the soft top. So no big complaints about tire noise. Fuel economy has fallen from 17 mpg with the stock wheels and tires to 15 mpg with the heavier, wider new ones. The new tires make top gear in the 6 speed transmission unusable, despite the torque of the 2012 V6. So they drive like they only have 5 speeds. At full compression, the wide tires just touch the body in the rear.

Unsprung weight rose by 160 lbs, so the stock shocks and springs are no longer adequate. Next on the list: A suspension lift, new springs and shocks. Another project: Re-gearing the differentials to adjust for the 12% larger circumference of the new tires. This tire swap is getting pretty expensive!

 

[cshontz]

This is so true!

On any given off-road forum, there are countless questions about tire size and/or ride height increases.

"Do I need such-and-such component?"

"Will an oversize tire fit?"

Many of the responses state that you don't need to change a certain component for such a minor change. However, I don't think many people understand how every system in one's vehicle affects every other system. Without comprehensive changes, one is compromising some aspect of performance, be it longevity of components, comfort, perceived power, fuel economy, turning radius - the list goes on.

With the exception of some high-end, well-engineered upgrades, a vehicle is always best dialed-in in its stock form, and any change outside of the manufacturer's spec yield countless compromises, many of which aren't immediately apparent.

Very interesting information from Inside Line.

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

Removing the sway bars was one of the biggest improvements I did to my 05 Rubicon that was free. Of course I was just learning back then and had my drivers side rear spring fall out on the top of slick rock at Tellico. Got to hear the ringing till it finally stopped down at the bottom.
The question I've got is why would the unsprung weight necessitate new shocks and springs?

 

[dstock]

I'm not sure about the un-sprung weight issue, but I can tell you that a disco'd swaybar with 285/70-17's will hit the fenders up front when off road. A small lift is needed with this size tire. The stock springs are pretty soft as well so if you start to load them up for overlanding, they do sag quite a bit.

I say all of this from experience with my 2010

 

[1stDeuce]

I'll go a little farther and say that the $150 you'll spend on disconnects is by far THE best money you can spend on a solid axle jeep. NOTHING will increase mobility and comfort on trails like disconnecting the front sway bar. Even adding lockers or bigger tires is a close second to disconnects in mobility improvement in my experience. (Keep the tires on the ground and you have great mobility vs. teetering around on three tires...) I have a locker in the rear of my TJ and I almost never use it because the tires stay on the ground. Had a beat up '85 XJ before this and ran it as a trail only rig for the most part with about 1" of lift, no bars at all, and 215/85 MT's. It had open diffs and it was downright incredible where it would go, just because it never lifted tires.

The ride improves noticeably because the body isn't forced to follow the front axle. No more pitching side to side hard as you spring off the bar, just a nice even ride.

The rear bar is much much less stiff than the front, and generally won't enough difference to worry about disconnecting it on a solid axle rig. And with the front disconnected on a super soft-sprung JK, the rear adds a little stability in off-camber situations, which is nice. That said, I never put a rear bar on my long TJ, but it's a no-top mostly, with mud tires and slightly stiffer springs, and only about 2" of lift. And most importantly, I understand that if I throttle hard around a paved turn, I can probably end up scratching up the side mirrors, so I don't do that. The front bar is enough for daily driving, even in emergency situations in my case. (I have a vehicle dynamics background, so the limits have been tested and I'm comfortable with where they are.)

YMMV. (But probably not by much in this case!!)
Chris

Oh, and stay away from lynch pin style disconnects. They rattle pretty quickly and will annoy the crap out of you. I run the type where the lower bushing pushes over a stud, and a washer and pin hold it in place. No rattles, and can be connected even if it's not really level if you have a little help or strong hands.