I saw some that looked almost like camper jacks. They may have been linear actuators. Rigidly mounted in the corners they would be quite stable. This would allow a full length strip around the top to be screwed on. Put a bulb seal on it and it would be very weather tight. Put another seal at the bottom and that would cushion it and keep it from rattling as well as seal it. I would not recomend a single seal set-up that slides with the top. It will wear the seal and the surface finish on the camper.
DIY Composite Camper T100 Expedition Vehicle Build
- Thread starter Traveling 2gether Journal
- Start date
RJ Howell
Active member
I see potential of the movement wearing the seals as it moves. I'd like to see (in person) how the Alaskan handles wind. I don't see the struts having that sort of pressure to stop movement and if it did.. think about the amount of strength required then to start lowering..
I physically tested a few commercial rigs using struts without some sort of locking brace. They relied un both the soft side material (vinyl) and the struts to sop sway. The lifts wouldn't blow around, yet they all moved. Can't see yet how a hard side would not also, just confined a bit more. It's probable Matt's slides will help reduce N/S sway, but E/W sway will still be there.
I bring it up as just something to think through as you build as something I struggled with to find a cure. I have an angle brace you can see in my picture on the side I put in place to stop my N/S sway.
For Matt's hard side it could be as simple as some sort of sliding pin to lock it in place.
Anywho.. another 2 cents of thought.
rruff
Explorer
Maybe so. But latches in the up position if necessary would be an easy fix.
Traveling 2gether Journal
Adventurer
OK. Yeah I considered using rigidly mounted actuators, but heard about issues getting multiple actuators working in unison and generally decided I wanted a manual system.
I was planning on doing a top and bottom seal when it's in the closed position.
I think I will take your advise and figure out a way to move those sliders (or use something else) and prioritize a continuous seal all the way around.
Thanks for the input.
Traveling 2gether Journal
Adventurer
Well, just got an E-mail from the company I ordered my XPS board from. Turns out they don't actually have the product and don't know when they will get it. Home depot and lowes are also out of all XPS foam bigger than 2'x2' squares. Not finding it anywhere!
Any suggestions on a supplier of 3/4 inch XPS board in 4x8 sheets?
Any other suggestions? I may have to dip back into researching liquid pour foam with good adhesion and compression strength.
Any suggestions on a supplier of 3/4 inch XPS board in 4x8 sheets?
Any other suggestions? I may have to dip back into researching liquid pour foam with good adhesion and compression strength.
RJ Howell
Active member
Not around me as well... Stepping up to 1" won't work? That is available around me. I used 1.5", but you are going at this much differently! Do like your approach!
rruff
Explorer
My local store has plenty of 1" and 2". Shipping foam tends to be very expensive. I don't think pour foam would work very well.
If you put hiems in the top, being a little out of alignment wouldn't matter. Use ones with clutchs and they will stop when they top out.
Traveling 2gether Journal
Adventurer
My local stores have no 4x8 sheets of XPS and won't ship from other stores.
Why don't you think pour foam would work?
I just started looking into it. Total Boat offers a "floatation foam" with a compressive strength of 38psi. It's moulded weight is 3.3 pounds/ cubic foot, so it would add an estimated 26 pounds to the camper compared to the FOAMULAR XPS 250.
I haven't found any information about how well it adheres to bare wood yet, but if I don't have to wet out the wood in epoxy first, that might save me a bit of weight and money.
rruff
Explorer
As I recall from looking into it, it's difficult to get full coverage (especially with only a 3/4" gap), and it applies force as it expands... so thin ply sheets will bow out. But I think it sticks to wood very well.
RJ Howell
Active member
Have to say, I'm wondering why myself.. All I read says it adhere's to most everything (within normal reason that is).
Traveling 2gether Journal
Adventurer
Yep. Home Depots, Lowes, Ace Hardware with in 3 hours of me all sold out/can't order more. Tried calling around to a few specialty shops in the area, but they are all out as well.
Just ordered 2 gallons of pour foam from Totalboat. I went with the 2 pound density. Here's a few stats:
compressive strength= 38 psi
R-value = 4.9 (for 3/4 inch)
weight= 2.1 lbs/cubic foot free rise & 3.3 lbs/cubic foot molded (I'm expecting to end up near the molded weight)
Max service temp= 200 F
The plan is to try to build the relatively small sections that will become my wheel wells as a test and to get used to using the material. I suspect I will run into some challenges, but will hopefully figure out a technique to make this stuff work.
rruff
Explorer
I just had a look at Carbon Core, and they have low prices on 2lb 19mm PU sheet... only $28.80. https://www.carbon-core.com/product/pu-pir-structural-foam-sheets/
Their shipping is sort of a flatish rate ~$350 IME, but it might be worth checking out. Also, have you looked at PU sheet suppliers locally? Boat builders may have it or can get it.
Their shipping is sort of a flatish rate ~$350 IME, but it might be worth checking out. Also, have you looked at PU sheet suppliers locally? Boat builders may have it or can get it.