DIY Green Oval Experience or Faskit or What do you carry for EAS trail failure?

[SkiWill]

I've been searching for some sort of EAS trail kit to get the Rover off the bump stops in the event of EAS system failure. It seems that the GOES or Green Oval Experience kit is out of production and the business itself no longer exists. The Faskit, as mentioned by others seems a bit expensive and overkill.

Some more experienced than I have said that they have built their own kit or that only an adapter or fitting for a shrader valve is needed to inflate a single EAS strut if they have the GAP IID Tool, but I haven't seen any threads discussing what's actually in the DIY kits people carry despite my searches.

I have the GAP tool, and would be happy to learn more about what fittings folks carry for emergency use and where to find them. To be honest, the Faskit looks really cool, but it also looks kind of overkill to just get you home. If that's truly the way to go, I'll order one, but I'd really appreciate any other feed back on what's the minimum needed in terms of fittings and where to find them in the even of a compressor failure or other issue where a portable compressor is needed to fill the EAS strut / bag.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Al Blue4.6l]

Following.

 

[NorthwestDriver]

Following along, though this thread had some good info for EAS failures (just skim through the non-relevant stuff until 1/2 way down)


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...at-to-do.216343/&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

[SkiWill]

Ok, so I ended up digging into this further and have come up with a fairly straightforward solution.

The air bag or air strut uses a VOSS connector like the valve blocks. I bought 4 VOSS connectors, 4 repair connectors, and 10' of 6 mm air line from CarID:

SKU: 1209618868
RMT® - VOSS Suspension™ Air Line Hose Connector Brass Fitting
Land Rover LR4 2012, VOSS Suspension™ Air Line Hose Connector Brass Fitting by RMT®. Quantity: 1 per Pack. The new suspension air line hose connector brass fitting helps connect and distribute air between your air suspension components.
$41.76
$10.44 / each

SKU: 1209615874
RMT® LR00-A326-AD4U - Air Ride Suspension™ Air Line Hose
Land Rover LR4 2012, Air Ride Suspension™ Air Line Hose (LR00-A326-AD4U) by RMT®. The Air Line Hose will allow you to Repair small or large sections of broken or damaged Air Line Hose without the need to change the entire line.
1
$18.27

SKU: 1209618861
RMT® - Air Line Hose Repair Straight Union Connector
Land Rover LR4 2012, Air Line Hose Repair Straight Union Connector by RMT®. Quantity: 1 per Pack. This will Allow you to Repair small sections of broken or damaged Air Line Hose without the need to change the entire line.

You can get the tubing and connectors on Amazon, but they're only rated up to 150 psi and the pressure of the air strut can exceed this pressure, so I went with the more expensive Made in USA RMT product on CarID. The Amazon stuff may work for you, but I felt it was worth another $20-$30 to get something I perceive to be of higher quality. Up to you.

Then, I went to Amazon and bought:


Megairon 1/8" NPT Male x 6MM Double Ferrule Compression Tube Fitting,Stainless Steel SS304 Male Straight Adapter

Hornet 1/8" NPT Tank Valve - 2 Pack

Legines Brass 1/8" NPT Female × 1/8" NPT Female Coupling Coupler Hex Head Pipe Fitting 1200psi (Pack of 2)

Since it's Amazon, these particular parts and vendors may come and go, but the general principle is that I wanted a 6 mm compression adapter that would allow me to use a NPT thread so I could install a Shrader valve that will work with my air compressor. I chose 6 mm compression to 1/8 NPT, an 1/8 NPT connector, and 1/8 NPT to Shrader valve. I purchased 4 each.

With all of these fittings I should be able to make my own emergency kit shown in the link in the previous page and repair a variety of other potential EAS failures. As I get more mileage or do longer trips, I'll look at adding ride height sensors and valve block rebuild kits to my kit, but I should be able to make something to either splice into the airbag or create a new line direct to the airbag to inflate individually if I can isolate the airbag with the GAP Tool. If all else fails, I can pull the fuse under the hood for the EAS system and make adapters to inflate each airbag individually.

All told I'll be about $160 with shipping, which is more than I expected, but I also will have quite a bit of flexibility to build what I need when I need it. It's also less than a $485 Faskit and not permanently installed since I may want the space where the Faskit mounts for a second battery in the future.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone.

 

[Al Blue4.6l]

Awesome, thank you for doing this. I've just copied it and placed my own orders.

 

[SkiWill]

You're welcome. Happy it helped. Just remember to teflon tape those NPT fittings so they don't leak. I didn't have that on my list because I had some at the house for actual plumbing purposes.

 

[Al Blue4.6l]

You're welcome. Happy it helped. Just remember to teflon tape those NPT fittings so they don't leak. I didn't have that on my list because I had some at the house for actual plumbing purposes.

Pretty sure I have a random roll of Teflon within about 15 feet of me at any given time in my house. ?

 

[TroySmith80]

Ok, so I ended up digging into this further and have come up with a fairly straightforward solution.

The air bag or ...

Hopefully this is helpful to someone.

Great list, thank you! A question though, do you know how much air pressure is required to achieve ride height with an LR3 heavily loaded for a trip? I've heard that it is probably much more than can be provided by the compressors that most of us carry for airing up our tires. Something approaching or over 100psi if i remember correctly. It would be a real bummer to get this all rigged up and then find out that your compressor won't build enough pressure to get the truck off the bump stops.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Great list, thank you! A question though, do you know how much air pressure is required to achieve ride height with an LR3 heavily loaded for a trip? I've heard that it is probably much more than can be provided by the compressors that most of us carry for airing up our tires. Something approaching or over 100psi if i remember correctly. It would be a real bummer to get this all rigged up and then find out that your compressor won't build enough pressure to get the truck off the bump stops.

Jack up the vehicle to unload the full suspension weight before you air it up; front and rear crossmember works or left or right frame rail to do one side at a time. The GOE kit it’s a trail fix to get you off the trail, not a full-time solution so it will take ingenuity to problem solve.

@TroySmith80 great points on all as this helps everyone plan for considerations that may not have been thought of. Ask me how I know about this trick; been there and it sucks. ?????

 

[SkiWill]

From what I can tell, operating pressure is 148-168 psi, so that is a very valid concern. My compressor will do 140 psi. It may not be ideal, but it should get me off the bump stops to get me rolling again, which is really all I'm trying to accomplish in the event of a catastrophic failure.

If the strut is 4" inner diameter (I'm actually not sure what the diameter on the internal side of the airbag is, so I'm estimating) then at 140 psi, I should be just shy of 7,100 lbs, which is max GVWR for the truck. As Victory_Overland said, if you can inflate the bag with the weight off of it, then you should be able to get rolling. Again, this is an emergency situation, and not a long term situation. Maintenance and replacing EAS components before failure is ideal when possible.

 

[Dogpilot]

There is another side to the suspension bottoming out. There is the occasion that the information the computer gets is not good and it will default to fully down. The biggest culprit is the level sensors. Now there being 4 of them, which one is bad? If you go to the 4x4 info page you can see the extent of what the suspension is doing and there are red blocks showing what the position sensor is sending. If one or more do not agree, then you have a sender failure. They are über cheap, $20-25 off eBay for brand x ones. The off brand ones work just fine, especially considering you can buy 4-5 of them for one OEM one. Personally I have not had a brand x failure, but a few OEM ones have gone to Rover heaven. The other nice feature is they take almost 10 minutes to change out (two bolts and a connector).