Dual Batteries on 2012 Wrangler with 3.6L

darron

New member
I've just received the MORE battery tray, and I've been studying the install videos. I've got one question on this... MORE never shows the electrical system reconnected to the battery after installation. Do I need to modify or extend the cable harness to reach the far terminal once the battery is rotated to it's new position, or will it reach as is?

Also, what do modifications like this do to my warranty? It's a 6 month old Jeep. I'm a bit nervous about removing that hardline extension to move the solenoid, for example. This isn't stuff I can reasonably undo (without buying a new OEM battery tray) if I need to take the Jeep in to the dealer. I'm okay with voiding any warranty on say the alternator and that specific solenoid. However, I'd be very concerned if any system connected to anything I touched becomes uncovered. (Like, say, the entire electrical system including the mygig, computer, etc... or if they could blame any motor fault on that solenoid being moved) I'm okay with losing warranty on things that were actually damaged by the mods, but how many other failures could they blame on this?
 

darron

New member
Okay, I've investigated a little more and I'm fairly comfortable with my warranty concerns. That solenoid is a purge solenoid, and I think it's unlikely that simply moving that around is going to give the dealerships a good reason to deny coverage on any major components. I can handle a small fight. Even a large fight over mods would be a problem only in that I'd have to explain it to my wife.

I'm still very curious about the harness reaching the far terminal post, though. Any ideas? It looks like it might reach, but I don't want a strain on that harness either. It's not a huge deal... I can make an extension if I have to. I just need to know before I do the work. I currently plan on doing the smart battery isolator and final wiring a couple weeks later. I've got some testing to do first on the stuff I'm attaching to the aux battery.
 

alan

Explorer
I'm curious, do you in the US have problems with low output voltage from alternators, mainly the computer controlled type in new toyota's and nissan's, the latest here in Australia is to use a dc to dc charger to control your auxillary battery, they handle voltage from 9v to 14v and then 3 stage charge your battery to full capacity. there are several brands available redarc, matson, projecta.
 

lbrito

Broverland Expert
No problem reaching the inner most battery. The only thing you have to do is remove this compression insert that is like a plastic screw that holds the harness flex tube that has the alternator cables on it onto the firewall. This gives it the roughly 2 inches of slack you need. There is quite a bit of give there so the cable pulls out more. Note, you have to do this even if you install a single D34/78 battery in there, since they're slightly different than the stock battery, so this is common, and has been feature in magazines like Four Wheeler where they did this for their JK to show that the wires reach.

The tray is awesome, and I've done a lot of 4 wheeling with it, its solid. Just saw the MORE post regarding the upgraded buckle, that's another plus. Thanks for the offer MORE, will be contacting you soon!

Okay, I've investigated a little more and I'm fairly comfortable with my warranty concerns. That solenoid is a purge solenoid, and I think it's unlikely that simply moving that around is going to give the dealerships a good reason to deny coverage on any major components. I can handle a small fight. Even a large fight over mods would be a problem only in that I'd have to explain it to my wife.

I'm still very curious about the harness reaching the far terminal post, though. Any ideas? It looks like it might reach, but I don't want a strain on that harness either. It's not a huge deal... I can make an extension if I have to. I just need to know before I do the work. I currently plan on doing the smart battery isolator and final wiring a couple weeks later. I've got some testing to do first on the stuff I'm attaching to the aux battery.
 

lbrito

Broverland Expert
My 2012 Wrangler's 160A alternator puts out a constant 14.4-14.7V under almost any condition, except when the batteries are deeply discharged and I'm at a stop idling, it drops to about 13.6V. But, as soon as I hit about 1,500 RPM, its back up to 14.7V when deeply discharged and putting out a lot of current, and gets very stable at 14.4V when the batteries are near full. It can definitely handle 2 deeply discharged D34 batteries without a problem.

I'm curious, do you in the US have problems with low output voltage from alternators, mainly the computer controlled type in new toyota's and nissan's, the latest here in Australia is to use a dc to dc charger to control your auxillary battery, they handle voltage from 9v to 14v and then 3 stage charge your battery to full capacity. there are several brands available redarc, matson, projecta.
 

lbrito

Broverland Expert
Yes, the price is much higher, and having had the parallel stacked batteries before the side by side MORE tray, I can tell you that it is much, much, MUCH more convenient to have them side by side than stacked. It is such a pain to get things wired sideways, specially on a lifted jeep. An isolator was so difficult to place side ways, but sitting on top, is just so easy to place, wire, and work with without stuffing your hands on the side and trying to reach all the way down to the bottom battery terminals while standing on top of the engine compartment in order to reach. It was kind of scary to me, since I have big hands, and it was a blind mate for the most part. So, that is definitely something to consider. Easy and visible access to the posts if invaluable.

2x the price of the MORE unit!
 

Rayholio

New member
I have reservations about stacked batteries as well.... one thing about Jeep parts; Most of them are made with profit in mind, instead of function... and it seems like to get a well thought out product.... it usually costs double :/
 

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