Dual Battery Management

blupaddler

Conspirator
Quick question for those of you with the Hell Roaring...

They recommend that you keep all your accessories on the MAIN battery. Have you done this? Are you using a fridge or other item that is wired hot?

My thought with the aux. battery was to run my camping type systems off the aux. battery. Maybe I have something wrong here.



Baja, the guage that monitors the batteries is just a simple marine grade guage correct?

:jump:



I am leaning towards the Perfect Switch by Mobi Arc. Just thinking through stuff still.
 

asteffes

Explorer
Hellroaring takes a different approach to the auxialliary battery idea. In their view, the secondary battery exists to get you out of a jam when your primary battery fails you. So, for example, you winch yourself out of a lake with the engine off and end up killing your main battery. Flip a switch and you can start up using the secondary battery.

In thier view, it is better to ensure you always have a fully-charged secondary battery to save your butt than to split the loads across to batteries. You can combine the two batteries if you really want or need to by flipping a switch, but the standard condition is to keep the secondary isolated as purely a backup power source.

It seems to me that one might want to run a deep-cycle battery as the main cell in this case, but that's probably not the ideal solution. Some deep-cycle batteries are not built to survive repeated heavy discharges from gigantic loads (like a winch) the way a starting battery would. So with the Hellroaring solution, you sort of benefit cost-wise from using two starting batteries instead of paying extra for a Yellow Top or similar.

Or you could go top-flight, over-the-top, no-expenses-spared and get a pair of Odyssey batteries that can do it all, have awesome CCA and runtime stats. In any case, the Hellroaring design is deceptively simple and probably a good way to go for many people who don't or won't practice good battery management and end up running down both batteries.

But a less expensive solution might be to just get a $50 jumper pack from Costco. It certainly won't run your winch but it will get your engine started if that's what you're most concerned about. :)
 

rgsiii

Observer
My dual battery system is set up so that the winch is set up to run off the primary battery,per the TJM IBS instructions. It made sense when the logic was explained to me. Honestly, I think either way has merits.
 

Desertdude

Expedition Leader
I have two HR units one in the Tacoma and one in th 80 - everything on the main ( stating batt) then the second bat is for back up - I can help you if you have any questions. PM me for any details

I also have the Xantrex inverter and it has a remote for monitoring - this is a sweet set up for not too much $$ - it also tels you what the stats are - my 276C GPS also tells me what the voltage is on the main batt.

BTW Mike at HR is first rate at CS and I have had long discussions on my set up in the Tacoma
 

BajaTaco

Swashbuckler
I think either scenario can work. I have most of my accessories (winch, fridge, lights, 2M radio, CB radio, 12v ports, air compressor) powered from my aux. battery. My logic is that this way, I can really thrash on the aux. battery if I want to (deep discharges, repeated discharges), and retain the "stock" battery/elec. configuration with my starting battery isolated and safe. I don't know that the opposite config. is really any different (?) except that you would need to combine or switch using the 2nd battery to get underway if you dried up the battery with all of the toys on it, whereas with my configuration, there is no switching or combining necessary.

Robb, yes - the battery energy gauges are a marine product (another ebay find).

[edit: It just dawned on me that I guess with the HR method, the reserve battery is basically never cycled or used for anything. So now that I think about it, I guess that would be even more reliable, especially if using a battery like Optima or Odyssey that has a really super long shelf life.]
 

blupaddler

Conspirator
Baja...

My train of thought was travelling along your track. I wanted to keep all my "other" items separate from my starting battery.

Thanks for your edit...That actually helps explain the HR concept to me. I guess I am just weary of running off my starting battery for days on end. But, having a nice untouched aux. seems nice.
 

asteffes

Explorer
BajaTaco said:
I think either scenario can work. I have most of my accessories (winch, fridge, lights, 2M radio, CB radio, 12v ports, air compressor) powered from my aux. battery. My logic is that this way, I can really thrash on the aux. battery if I want to (deep discharges, repeated discharges), and retain the "stock" battery/elec. configuration with my starting battery isolated and safe. I don't know that the opposite config. is really any different (?) except that you would need to combine or switch using the 2nd battery to get underway if you dried up the battery with all of the toys on it, whereas with my configuration, there is no switching or combining necessary.

Robb, yes - the battery energy gauges are a marine product (another ebay find).

[edit: It just dawned on me that I guess with the HR method, the reserve battery is basically never cycled or used for anything. So now that I think about it, I guess that would be even more reliable, especially if using a battery like Optima or Odyssey that has a really super long shelf life.]

I think another of HR's goals is to prevent the heaviest loads from passing through their device by puting the loads before their isolator. Thus, their device does not have to withstand a 400 ampere draw from a winch. The largest load it would ever see is the draw from the starter should you have to switch to the backup battery.

Presumably, one wouldn't combine the batteries to run a winch if the main battery was totally dead as one might end up with no starting power should the secondary battery run down because of the winch load. So if one did combine the batteries to run the winch one would still be drawing at least some energy from the main battery and not entirely from the backup.

I like your reasoning, BajaTaco, but I think it's a wash either way. :costumed-smiley-007
 

Desertdude

Expedition Leader
here is my thinking on the aux battery being separated - if you are like me and have some things still on the main battery like stereo - CB - interior lights - charging an iPod or anything else still on the main batt system and leave those things on ( as well as use voltage from your second -aux- batt) during the same time - what will start your truck if you leave things running? Keeping everything on the main batt makes it a no brainer if you leave stuff on - you always have a freshly charged batt waiting if you need it

I have on occasion used the HR and the aux batt to start both the Tacoma and the 80 series - the 80 has a lesser amp alt and has a harder time keeping up with the inverter when it is cranking

I bought my Xantrex Pro 1800 Inverter through West marine (who have the best CS) it has the cool remote for turning on a batt status ( using a phone cable for extension) - I have it in the 80 series and ran 0/3 wire to the batt

I will miss this feature in the Tacoma - so... I will have to get one and put it in the aux tool box with my other important items

[edit] additional info - I am running an Extreme outback compressor of my aux batt in the Tacoma ( I leave the engine running when I use it) and in the 80 series I have the inverter on the aux batt ( I use this while running the engine or just driving) I am mentioning this because I do think it is good to occasionally use the second aux batt - while keeping a fresh charge into it
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
Desertdude,

With the HR system what kind of batteries are you using? I presume your aux battery is a smaller battery just to get your vehicle started.



Some good info here fellas. It appears like there's a system for everybody...whether you plan on

1. HR - using factory loads like the radio/lighting in addition to aux loads

2. Solenoid Combiner - if you need to combine your batteries for extended winching, welding or to jumpstart your starting battery

3. Mobi arc - if you run everything off of your aux battery and don't need to combine the batteries
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
Hopping in a little late... I run the NW Wrangler Products on my FJ40, it has worked flawlessly over the years. I run a Optima Red on the primary starting/power circuit and a Yellow top on the secondary winch/aux power circuit. I am still working out a switching system for my Ready Welder, though at this point it is going to be MUCH easier to disconnect a couple cables (and use a jumper harness when I need the welder on 24 volts)
 

bigreen505

Expedition Leader
How would solar charging factor into the equation, and would one system be better than another in that context. I can definitely see how each system takes a different route, and I think I prefer the BajaTaco answer for my needs.
 

Desertdude

Expedition Leader
Mlachica said:
Desertdude,

With the HR system what kind of batteries are you using? I presume your aux battery is a smaller battery just to get your vehicle started.


In the Tacoma group 34 optima yellow tops for both battieries - but today I am installing a larger group 31 optima yellow top for the aux I have the room for it - all though it is said that is is better to have the same batteries

in the 80 series two group 31 Optima yellow tops ( fits in perfect)
 

asteffes

Explorer
I have read that it is preferanble to use starting-type batteries instead of deep cycle units for a winch load. This is because a winch draws a huge amount of current very rapidly instead of a smaller load over many hours, and a starting battery handles this type of draw better than most deep cycle batteries.

Another option to consider is simply using one really good, really big battery and no auxilliary system at all. For jump-starting, carry cables and/or a jumper pack (you do go into the outback with a buddy, right? :) ) Something like the Group 31 Optima Blue Top or Odyssey PC2150 models. They're huge and heavy but also have some nice stats, like 1000+ CCA and 2-3 hour reserve times.

An interesting twist is that Odyssey is now gaining in popularity as their batteries are supposed to feature the benefits of a starting battery and deep-cycle battery in one. I'll probably replace my factory battery with an Odyssey Group 34 model when the time comes.

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/odyssey/
 
Last edited:

Mike S

Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
Another alternative is the BlueSea marine battery system. I used this on my FJ60 with excellent results, managing two Optima Yellowtops. It has a manual control for mounting in the dash (ON-Auto-OFF). Unlike the Hell Roaring and Sure Power, it is a manual system enabling full charge and automatic low voltage isolation.

M
 

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