kenallwine
Adventurer
With what is going to be going in the back of the jeep, the cage is an advantage for us. But I do see your point. It was just something I did to see how it works.
Edgestar Slider and extra Drawer
- Thread starter kenallwine
- Start date
With what is going to be going in the back of the jeep, the cage is an advantage for us. But I do see your point. It was just something I did to see how it works.
kenallwine
Adventurer
That's all the pictures I took and I didn't make up any plans. I did this on the fly. I have some ideas to improve the design already.
kenallwine
Adventurer
Good Idea! I'll have to see what I can do!
kenallwine
Adventurer
Yup! We have a 4yr old daughter. She was leaning on it the other day and the 100lb slider held up well. However, as others have mentioned, I am going to look into heavier sliders.
Looks great. One thing I see is that most people are pretty tight on space and there seems to be quite a gap between the fridge and the cage. Could you close up that gap?
What's the point of the cage? Does a metal fridge need protection? Is the cage strong enough to secure anything too?
What's the point of the cage? Does a metal fridge need protection? Is the cage strong enough to secure anything too?
OverlandZJ
Expedition Leader
Very nice Ken.. let me know when you need an Engel 45 for fitment. :sombrero:
kenallwine
Adventurer
The cage is just something that I did for myself. I wouldn't be offering that. I needed it because the cots lay across the back and I needed something to keep them off the fridge so I could slide it out for lunches while we are on the move.
kenallwine
Adventurer
Isn't there already a slider for that?:elkgrin:
Ken, instead of using a router on the drawer, could you have used countersunk screws?
Also : I know you mentioned using stronger slides, just dont forget to factor in weight of fridge and contents as others have said, as well as the weight of your frame. looks like 1x1 tube what thickness 3/16? or 1/8"
-Sam
Also : I know you mentioned using stronger slides, just dont forget to factor in weight of fridge and contents as others have said, as well as the weight of your frame. looks like 1x1 tube what thickness 3/16? or 1/8"
-Sam
kenallwine
Adventurer
I couldn't find countersunk 1/4" thread screw quickly. So I had to break out the router table. We'll see how it works. If the bottom cracks during our trip, I'll switch to countersunk and replace the bottom of the drawer.
The majority of the frame is made for 3/4" tubing that is 3/16" wall. I used the 1" on the vertical support only because that is what I had left over of material.
But, It doesn't look like I'll be making any of these soon. The wife put the kibosh on the idea. She said I have too many project going on right now around the house. I am allow to make these once I finish a few projects this fall.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
If you do buy heavier slides ( and I think you should) then you can get them with little latches that lock them closed AND open. That's what I used on my trailer. I think you should use 200lb slides for this application. When I was shopping, I found that the "rating" on the slides was actually only for an 18" opening. A longer set of slides from the same "series" would need to be derated due to the longer torque arm. I have no idea why the industry does things that way, but that's how it is.
kenallwine
Adventurer
Any particular site I should take a look at for slides?
Hi,
As Rob notes, you really should be using heavier slides for long life opeation.
Here is a link to the types I have on my fridge setup :
http://www.accuride.com/Industrial/Product/Details.asp?ProductID=123&CatID=10
They also come without the latching option here :
http://www.accuride.com/Industrial/Product/Details.asp?ProductID=57&CatID=10
I looked at lots of options and different slide makes to find some that have enough clearance for decent sized mounting hardware. Many of the 'wood working' types are only sized for #8 screws or smaller and there is no room to get a bolt in and still allow the slide to close. With these you can get a 1/4" bolt & nyloc nuts in to secure them to the frame & fridge tray. There available from quite a few on-line retailers as pairs, google for your nearest/cheapest one.
Heres an example :
http://www.drawerslides.com/c/accuride-9308
Cheers,
Andy
As Rob notes, you really should be using heavier slides for long life opeation.
Here is a link to the types I have on my fridge setup :
http://www.accuride.com/Industrial/Product/Details.asp?ProductID=123&CatID=10
They also come without the latching option here :
http://www.accuride.com/Industrial/Product/Details.asp?ProductID=57&CatID=10
I looked at lots of options and different slide makes to find some that have enough clearance for decent sized mounting hardware. Many of the 'wood working' types are only sized for #8 screws or smaller and there is no room to get a bolt in and still allow the slide to close. With these you can get a 1/4" bolt & nyloc nuts in to secure them to the frame & fridge tray. There available from quite a few on-line retailers as pairs, google for your nearest/cheapest one.
Heres an example :
http://www.drawerslides.com/c/accuride-9308
Cheers,
Andy
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I got mine from Lee Valley Tools in Ottawa, but I'd bet you could find some for a better price elsewhere in the US.
njjeepthing
Explorer
I'd be interested in one with the sliders and the cage. Would be nice in the back of my JK. Could still pack stuff on top of the cage and use the fridge, something I can't do now.