Educate me on the 3 way RV fridge.

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I have a 2007 Apex 8, their website does not even mention what brand they use. Dometic or NovaCool id guess, does not seem to match the Norcolds i am used to. I am not anywhere close to check but will when I get a chance. Their website, leaves something to be desired. Sadly with the heat and work I have no had anytime to trouble shoot it, i was able to tell it sparks every time you hit the igniter, im just not convinced the gas is flowing when its supposed to. It could be either or all of those things. IT is sometimes picky about lighting, other times it will fire right up. The last weekend i tried to use it, once I got it to light it would go out after an hour or so.

DWH, Thank you for the knowledge and links!!!

 

[Mundo4x4Casa]

My experience has been a good one with the factory 1998 Lance Dometic ammonia transfer/ absorption 3-way fridge. We initially used 12v while traveling as the propane part would not stay lit above 50 mph, and immediately switched over to propane when landing for the night. You only make the mistake of forgetting to switch over, once. If in a campground or with 120v AC, of course we plugged in the 30 amp house circuit. Once an RV guru showed me what to do to keep the flame going at speed, any speed, we have used propane exclusively leaving it on for the duration, except as has been noted while refilling or on a ferry transfer. Once on an 18 hour long ferry between Port Hardy, Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert, BC, the frozen stuff lasted without power or flame as we did not open the fridge to check it out. Recently, the push button fridge igniter spring collapsed with no button come-back so I must light the pilot after taking the fridge exterior vent cover off. It's a nuisance, but I'll have it repaired before our fall trip. We feel lucky, having run the wheels of this camper with so little trouble. The fridge has been very stable, running on '2' on the temperature dial through thick and thin with no frost or defrost in outside temps from 05 deg. f, to 122 deg. f. Having had this old Lance for 18 years, and ironing out the early bugs, it's like an old shoe; you can hardly wait to put it on. We've done some upgrading to the power system and adding 200w of solar so without air conditioning or a micro wave, power ceases to be a problem. I have some pals that have completely changed over to a compressor fridge from the absorption style and they report that they are not trouble free either. My brother has an OUTFITTER! 9.5 foot model (the blow up vinyl palace) and he has had nothing but trouble with the fridge, even with a complete replacement on warranty. It seems like every yearly extended trip with him contains a fridge fail. He has a nice ARB fridge in the back seat as a backup system. PM me for advice on keeping the absorption Dometic pilot lit while moving at speed.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Its looking like its a Norcold- norcold N3003

 

[dwh]

So...


Thermocouple

https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-Inc-Refrigerators-619154-Thermocouple/dp/B0031XK26A


Thermocouple interrupter

https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-Inc-Refrigerators-621737-Thermocouple/dp/B0031XHURO


Safety valve

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008KWNISQ



I would replace them one at a time in that order (thermocouple, interrupter, valve).

I don't claim to be a master of this stuff, but over the years whenever I had a gas appliance with a pilot that won't stay lit - a new thermocouple fixed it every time.

 

[dwh]

With my Norcold, I just pulled the old one, took it to the local mom'n'pop hardware store, where they had a rack of assorted thermocouples, and found one with the same threads.

It worked fine and was like 7 bucks.

 

[James86004]

My experience is they don't work well at all for us on two vheicles we have owned. We just bought a Sprinter Airstream that has one and we have a heck of a time keeping the interior temperature below 50, especially if the ambient temperature is above 85. That is fine for English beer but not roast beef. The sideways opening door is just terrible for an overland vehicle. The top opening chest ones retain cold air so much better. We will be removing this fridge and putting in our Engel 45 once we get home.

 

[dwh]

Um...just noticed something. That thermocouple listed on Dyers has two spade connectors for the electrical.

The one I just linked from Amazon has a normal (screw-in) electrical connector.

That interrupter I just linked has spade connectors.

So figure out which type you have and get the right one.

(My Norcold was ancient. It had the screw-in type.)

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

DWh- Wow thank you so much!!

Im currently working a contract as a Risk Manager for DuPont Pioneer....as you can probably imagine, its currently an insanely busy time. I really really appreciate your incite. As i have not had any time to trouble shoot or research. Currently have 40 full time people, they are hitting 60kmiles a month, and 850H2A workers, and starting next month another 150 temps for harvest under my purview.

Mundo4x4casa-

Yeah, Ive never had problem with the ones in my fiver- its on pretty much all the time. But does not see the movement and abuse the outfitter does. Not to mention in all my other ones, ive had the ability to care for them well form the beginning. No such luck in with the outfitter, you could read all about it from the project in my signature.


James86004-

I get that, but if i can keep it running with minimal parts and maintenance it will save my budget on a 12volt replacement until it kicks the bucket completely

 

[dwh]

Hrmm...one more post for the uninitiated...

A thermocouple is just a small millivolt electrical generator that uses heat to make electricity. There are wires inside that long copper tube.

The electricity powers a small electromagnet that holds open a valve for the pilot light. If the pilot blows out, the thermocouple cools and the valve closes, preventing a small continuous gas leak from the pilot.

Which is why when you light the pilot, you have to hold down a manual bypass on the valve until the thermocouple makes enough power to keep it open.

One sign of a wonky thermocouple is having to hold down the bypass longer. A new thermocouple will heat up enough in like 10 seconds.

 

[dwh]

Another thing I just noticed...

In my previous post listing thermocouple, interrupter, safety valve...now I think interrupter and safety valve are the same thing.

But the "interrupter" is for the thermocouple with the spade connector, snd the "safety valve" is for the thermocouple with the screw-in connector.


Need more coffee...

 

[James86004]

James86004-

I get that, but if i can keep it running with minimal parts and maintenance it will save my the budget on a volt replacement until it kicks the bucket completely

Fair enough.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Replaced the thrmocouple, and thermocouple interrupter- no go, so now going to replace the safety valve,

I may end up doing the burner as well. The thing was never taken care of, so " rebuilding" it may still be the better, budget friendly choice.

 

[dwh]

Yea. Hell, it could be something as stupid simple as a clogged pilot orifice.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Still pretty wonky- I cant get it to stay. Ill replace the burner and maybe the igniter as well since I am going to be in it again.

 

[dwh]

FYI: They sell fuel filters for propane.