ejs262's Suburban(s?)!

[chilliwak]

I run a 6.5 turbo diesel in my 94 Yukon. I find the bigest problem being finding a shop that knows how to repair the 6.5. I took my truck to this company https://www.bcdiesel.ca/en/ and they absolutly destroyed my truck! That was after i dropped 5k$ in their shop!

 

[ejs262]

this project isn't about easy, or cheap, it's about the next challenge, I've built gas cars and trucks, I'd like to take a crack at a modern diesel. the intent is to make the truck a daily driver capable vehicle

picked up some new parts today, deals so good I couldn't pass them up!

Another 10 bolt front axle, for $50, I don't think it was a bad buy. I'm going to set this one up for 8 lug hubs and late model 3/4 or 1 ton brakes, and some kind of limited slip or locker if it doesn't already have one. the tag on top says it has 4.56 gears... a little extreme for me, I'll probably swap them for 3.73's or 4.10's. Long term, I'd like to get a D60 for the front. the rear axle will be whatever comes in the donor truck, unless I get antsy and decide to spring for something before I get a donor.



and, an NP205! for $60 I couldn't pass it up. I'm picking up an NP203 to build a doubler too, should be pretty darn tough, but also a huge transmission and transfer case assembly once coupled to an Allison! lol.

 

[Ari3sgr3gg0]

The 14 bolt full floater is a straight drop in that was common in Chevy, super cheap too! I don't know how your rear springs are but most burbs get the spring sag in the rear. I look forward to seeing what happens with this one

 

[ejs262]

yep, I want to upgrade to newer disc brakes on all four corners, part of bringing this beast into the 21st century! sure I could adapt brakes to an old axle, but then I still have to get another axle, and then modify it, whereas I could just get an axle already equipped like I want.

 

[ejs262]

well, there's a reasonably priced dana 60 front axle for sale locally to me... I'm going to try and pick it up to if the guy will message me back...

 

[ejs262]

well, the Dana 60 fell through... I'll have to keep looking for now, hopefully I can find one soonish, I've also started looking for a donor truck again, I see a few I like, but I've narrowed down the trucks I'm looking at to 04.5-07 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500hd 4x4 trucks. if I can find one for the right price, I'd go for a 2wd and swap the transmission out.

 

[ejs262]

well, I got a reply notification asking why I wanted a Dana 60, the reply made it seem like they thought I wanted a Dana 60 rear axle, right now, I'm looking for a Dana 60 front axle, not rear, which would be much stronger than the stock 10 bolt front axle. the rear axle will come from whatever truck I use as a donor for the DMAX.

 

[ejs262]

pretty significant parts haul over the past few days, a guy near me was parting out a 89 3/4 ton 4x4 suburban with every imaginable option... it was really a shame to see, it was in pretty darn good shape, at least before he started at it... I got both axles, (4.10) a 40 gallon gas tank, 5 wheels, only one had a usable tire, it'll be the spare, and 4 hubcaps, all for under $500!





then I found another gem, an NP203, now I have most of the hard to get parts to build my 203/205 doubler.

 

[Ari3sgr3gg0]

That was a pretty good haul, keep that guys number in case he decides to part with the frame as well. If I recall the 3/4 actually did have a thicker frame. A doubler is still high on my list of wants, having more gearing is always awesome!

 

[ejs262]

I really wish I found the truck before he did, I'd be driving it right now if I had...

I should start an axle business at this rate... lol!



I finally got around to finishing up my heater core install. since I had it that far apart, I threw in a new evaporator core as well. it's capped off ATM, to keep debris out.



insert maniacal laughter:



I got an insanely good deal on a set of like new BFG Mud Terrain KM3's, all four for $450... now onto getting a lift kit, the 33's should fit without one, but will rub on every little bump, I'm probably going to do a 4" lift from ORD.

 

[ejs262]

made a bit of progress in the past two days, I decided to go ahead and pull the engine to replace the rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. I also decided, that because I would have it this far apart, it was a good time to throw on a new timing chain. I disconnected the wiring from the engine, the torque converter bolts, and began loosening the bell housing bolts. if everything goes according to plan, I'll have the engine out tomorrow afternoon. at this point, I'm contemplating rebuilding the transmission as well. a kit is about $280 for an all inclusive kit, and I'll have to pick up a few special tools, but it doesn't appear to be anything too crazy, and would give a HUGE amount of insurance for the Alaska trip.

 

[ejs262]

been a hot minute since the last update, the engine is out, and I started disassembly:

all 8 plugs showed no signs of oil consumption.



with the oil pan removed, no crazy deposits or sludge was visible



Clearly someone had been in the engine before me, as these never came stock with a double roller timing chain:



but, if you look back to the picture of the oil pan, notice in the oil pump pickup? yeah, big chunks of ****************. it's all plastic material, I determined it was a nylon hose clamp similar to the one in the following pictures:






at this point, I had no plans to go any further into the bottom end, but I wasn't comfortable with the debris, so I decided it would be a good idea to pop a main cap, and a rod cap to check a couple of bearings, and the results were less than desired...




it's hard to tell in the pictures, but there is a nice score in the bearing, with copper showing. the #1 main bearing also had a bit of wear with visible copper. the journals on the crank are also scored... I attempted to polish the scores out, but they are beyond my capability to repair.

at this point, I have about 6 options.

have the crank ground, which costs about $200

buy a replacement crank, which is about $180

buy a junkyard engine, which is probably about $700, with questionable condition

buy a reman shortblock, which runs about $900, with more confidence.

and finally, the most expensive, but probably best option,

buy a wrecked or otherwise low cost late model suburban/tahoe with a 4.8 or 5.3, some swap mounts, and smash the two together for about $2500

theoretically, I could part out the late model and recoup some of my costs, but I'm unsure of what parts are worth for one, so I probably won't go that route. realistically, I'm probably going to buy a replacement crank, clean up the block as best as I can, and get it on the road. my biggest concern with a replacement crank, is that the balance of the engine may not be right anymore with the new crank, but, this isn't exactly a high RPM monster either, and I imagine an 80's GM rotating assembly probably wasn't balanced that precisely anyways.

 

[rayra]

that's why they have a balancer / pulley with an inner and outer ring and a rubber liner in between

I'd say new crank and properly sizing some new bearings, put a little hone on the cylinders and some fresh rings and go for it.

And that's a really weird place for those clamps to show up. They appear to be the clamps used on the ~1" AIR circulation hoses on the smog setup. They would have had to have fallen into the pan while the timing cover was off. Probably when the double-roller was put on. Million to one shot. There's no other way for them to work their way down there.

/had the 305 in my '85 C-10 apart more than once. Those hose clamps cross over the top / back of the alternator, have to pry them apart all the time when stripping all the rotating crud off the front of the motor just to get the water pump loose. One thing I really like about the Vortec motors is their modularity. It takes very little work to remove any subcomponent. A LOT easier than the old SBCs.

 

[chilliwak]

Nice progress there Mr 262. I am sorry to see your crank in poor shape it seems like you know what to do. Maybe the remanufactured short block engine is a good way to go as it would be covered under warranty? Then everything else is also upgraded. Just wondering if the profile name you chose has and significance to an old jet fighter from WW2? Anyways keep up the good work and lets hope everything goes smoothly. Cheers Chilli...?

 

[ejs262]

that's why they have a balancer / pulley with an inner and outer ring and a rubber liner in between

I'd say new crank and properly sizing some new bearings, put a little hone on the cylinders and some fresh rings and go for it.

And that's a really weird place for those clamps to show up. They appear to be the clamps used on the ~1" AIR circulation hoses on the smog setup. They would have had to have fallen into the pan while the timing cover was off. Probably when the double-roller was put on. Million to one shot. There's no other way for them to work their way down there.

/had the 305 in my '85 C-10 apart more than once. Those hose clamps cross over the top / back of the alternator, have to pry them apart all the time when stripping all the rotating crud off the front of the motor just to get the water pump loose. One thing I really like about the Vortec motors is their modularity. It takes very little work to remove any subcomponent. A LOT easier than the old SBCs.

while it can compensate for slight imbalance, the harmonic balancer is for harmonics due to firing order and resonance, not weight imbalance. it is a very odd place for the clamp. I never had the engine far enough apart for one to make it's way down there, so it must be a gift from the PO...

Nice progress there Mr 262. I am sorry to see your crank in poor shape it seems like you know what to do. Maybe the remanufactured short block engine is a good way to go as it would be covered under warranty? Then everything else is also upgraded. Just wondering if the profile name you chose has and significance to an old jet fighter from WW2? Anyways keep up the good work and lets hope everything goes smoothly. Cheers Chilli...?

most warranties a spotty about coverage when it comes to installed components like an engine, I have a fair bit of confidence in the rest of the engine, I'll probably have the crank ground, install new bearings, and let it ride.

on my username, it is actually, the ME-262. it was my favorite plane for a very long time, probably still is. definitely my favorite WW2 plane, very closely followed followed by the P38 lighting.