El Camaleon Azul. an '08 V8 4x4 T4R built to go.....

[zidaro]

I've been through the seized LCA issue. Not fun.

Seriously! not cool at all, and i am really not sure why Toyota would not lube those cam bolts with something? The bolt was bonded with the sleeve deep enough that liquid wrench, heat, air hammer- nothing was going to break it free that i had avail. Except the Sawsall

 

[zidaro]

a couple brake bleed procedures to follow.
Ive used the on my 10 Tundra successfully, but always have to hunt them down


Here's the toyota procedure out of the 07' FJC repair manual.
This is just for the front and rear lines. It's a good idea to put the top on the master to prevent splashing. Do not let the master get low. Always tighten the bleeder before letting the pedal up. If you let the pedal up air will be sucked into the system. I would buy 2 quarts of fluid. You can probably take the second quart back but it's best to have more than enough on hand just in case. OK here's the Toyota process:

BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the
pump motor has stopped.
HINT:
Pump operating sound can be heard.
(b) Front brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then
loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held
down (step D).
(3) At the point when the fluid stops coming out,
tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake
pedal (step E).
(4) Repeat steps D and E until all the air in the fluid
has been bled out.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.
(c) Rear brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal, hold it, and then
loosen the bleeder plug.
HINT:
Brake fluid is pumped out automatically.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release the air.
NOTICE:
Keep the brake fluid in the reservoir tank
above the MIN line during the above
procedures.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake
fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the
bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.




This is for a 2011. Should be the same.......

BLEED BRAKE LINE

(a) Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
(b) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.
(c) Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.
(d) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH.
(e) Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque : 11 Nm (110 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)

(f) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(g) With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT
* Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
* Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
* As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.
(h) When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque : 11 Nm (110 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)

(i) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(j) Turn the ignition switch off (IG).
(k) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.
(l) Check and adjust the brake fluid level



******NEVER let the Master cyl. fluid level get low************

 

[zidaro]

Busted out the passenger side front suspension on Monday. All went smooth.
heres the important torque specs for the front.

Tuesday got a Brake Bleed with zero issues. Except my wife not being stoked pumping the pedal for ever.
After that i went ahead and changed out the front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid.

Driveway alignment turned out ok, got me to the shop for a real straighten out.
strap a straight bar to each front wheel at center, level it. then measure across the rear of each wheel and across the front of each. Looking for 1/4" toe in- the front should be 1/4" less than the rear.

Took her for a sunset spin to break in the rotors/pads. All went well.

Front Glass

Got on the road this am to get the alignment done. Only shop worth a damn around my area is in Bishop. Sterling works at Bishop Automotive (Chevron at N. end of town) and he knows his ****, old school, and does one heck of a stand up alignment. So- 50 miles of wandering down the highway later, all aligned. He even adjusted the rear links, aligning all 4 wheels. DIALED!! No more wandering.

Heres the Passengerside front in all its current glory.

 

[zidaro]

This, of course, lead me to the GOODS!!!
Im finally back on the road with this thing. Never done, naturally, but i can wheel again :wings:

Spun off the highway on the way home from the alignment to get the rubber dirty and scrape around on some rocks. Nothing wild! No big flexing or articulation, no air. Just putted around.
I did happen to blast some fire road washboard- she ate it up very smoothly. I did happen to cross drive some large rutted 2track and she ate that up too! I think things are looking good for this stage in the build. It handles fairly good at decent speeds. Naturally it will not be eating whoops for dinner anytime- soon

Heres this eves test run crawl-around. Eye candy for ME!!

You like my sweet *** custom bumper?? Obviously i have some work to finish up unk03:

these are the 2track ruts i was talking about. i hit them diagonally at about 40mph and it was a very smooth controlled jostle, no harsh hit or deflection.

front does not tuck to deep. but PS was only a foot and half lower.

rear pulls into the fender nicely on articulation. I don't think that will be the case on full compression.

FUN to be had!!

 

[Mushin_Noshin]

Looks great like it is! Liking those fenders

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[seanpistol]

You must live in Mammoth. I lived there for two years and have family in Bishop.

 

[zidaro]

Yes, i must! tried leaving for a couple years and it made my stomach upset!
Seriously though, been here since '92. LOVE this place

Why on earth would you leave?

You must live in Mammoth. I lived there for two years and have family in Bishop.

 

[seanpistol]

Yes, i must! tried leaving for a couple years and it made my stomach upset!
Seriously though, been here since '92. LOVE this place

Why on earth would you leave?

It doesn't snow there anymore

 

[zidaro]

It doesn't snow there anymore

Clearly you've been misled! Haha, all good. atleast when it does snow the light fluff, I'm not bashing my knees on the moguls and stumps below bottomless pow sucks

 

[zidaro]

a shot of my alignment specs post suspension/wheels/brake replacements, for my personal future reference

 

[Dalko43]

This, of course, lead me to the GOODS!!!
Im finally back on the road with this thing. Never done, naturally, but i can wheel again :wings:

Spun off the highway on the way home from the alignment to get the rubber dirty and scrape around on some rocks. Nothing wild! No big flexing or articulation, no air. Just putted around.
I did happen to blast some fire road washboard- she ate it up very smoothly. I did happen to cross drive some large rutted 2track and she ate that up too! I think things are looking good for this stage in the build. It handles fairly good at decent speeds. Naturally it will not be eating whoops for dinner anytime- soon

Heres this eves test run crawl-around. Eye candy for ME!!

You like my sweet *** custom bumper?? Obviously i have some work to finish up unk03:

these are the 2track ruts i was talking about. i hit them diagonally at about 40mph and it was a very smooth controlled jostle, no harsh hit or deflection.

front does not tuck to deep. but PS was only a foot and half lower.

rear pulls into the fender nicely on articulation. I don't think that will be the case on full compression.

FUN to be had!!

The undercarriage looks to be freshly painted. Did you do that yourself? If so, what techniques and products did you use?

 

[zidaro]

The undercarriage looks to be freshly painted. Did you do that yourself? If so, what techniques and products did you use?

I did. It came from Missouri and had a touch of surface rust on it and was looking like it wanted to go deeper. So, in my OCD way, i got at it. Lots of work, but only really took a bunch of elbow grease and AC power
Hit those topics pretty hard and thorough on Pg2 of the thread.
We will see how my fresh coat holds thru the E. Sierra winter and our new County road chemical policy that is now causing rust issues here in Cali.

 

[zidaro]

Took a sweet and much needed shakedown run with a buddy. Test out all the crap i did recently.
Local trail that reaches up into the Highcountry of sierras, Fall colors are peaking right now up high so timing was great. Trail has plenty of firewood whoops, ruts and loose rock down low, then gets somewhat flexy with set boulders and steps up near the crest. Trail reaches up to almost 11,000'

Heres a link to some trail writeup. Anyone with a capable wheeler that is traveling to E. Sierras should- first contact me, then get on this trail for some real adventure.
Wheeler Ridge Trail - | TAP into Adventure!

klik for a flik




Lil fun wheeling trip, no photo shoot but we did take a few pics.
Rig handled exceptionally well, I'm pretty happy with the results in basic suspension improvements.
Coopers aired down to 12psi have great compliance and grip on dry sandy rock.
My cheapass Viair 80P kicks *** for simple airups- simple compressor - took about 20min. to air 4 tires from 12-38psi.
First time playing with DAC! Damn cool how well it works. Need only small amounts of driver foot input on brakes on the steepest of decent or ledges.
First time really using Toyota traction control on boulder covered terrain- Im used to having my 1st gen. T4R with lockers/dual t-cases/super flex. I was really surprised at how well it handles lack of traction or a tire in the air. It bobbles a bit, then takes control and puts traction to the wheel that has it. Really quite remarkable how well it works without having a true locker. I was pleasantly shocked! (still getting lockers )
Issues-
Rear tire rub on rear inner fender at the top part of mudflap- it'll self clearance if it needs to, barely rubbing at full flex and i don't see playing with it too much if at all.
Slammed a few bowling ball size rocks and ruts at speed and it tossed my alignment a bit- need to realign.
Need/want real skids and sliders. Simple peace of mind!

 

[zidaro]

Took an overnighter spin out thru N. Death Valley. Camped at Saline- epic as always. Drove out North thru Steel Pass into Eureka Dunes, hitting it right at Sunset as we came thru Dedekera Canyon. Gorgeous trip with perfect Fall DV weather.

Parked above Marble Bath, on our way out Steel Pass

Dedekera Bedrock sunset

Arrived at Eureka Dunes just past sunset. Took a nice night-hike up to the top with my daughter and ChocoLab Pup. Wifey took a nap in the Runner
In our own beds by 10pm. Long quick trip

 

[zidaro]

Upgrade time!

Picked up a driverside rear window rack from a company that makes FJC Equip. They've started making some 4th/5th ten runner gear too. But I'm gonna say they are not REALLY building it rig specific. Im not entirely foreign to working on and installing gear on rigs, this rack was a total PITA to fit up and i had to mod a few parts to get it to fit right and tight. All good now, and I'm happy with how it has turned out, but its a simple window rack, should just bolt right in if its being sold as a model specific rack. Buyer be aware.
http://www.orangeboxxfabrication.com/_p/prd12/4546288931/product/4th-gen-drivers-side-psd-rack
I happen to have picked mine up off a guy that bought it, and was fed up with it. Paid ~half $$. Still felt expensive after i was done ;(
States it holds 35#, 11G metal, built to hold Molle and Quick fist gear. It does.

Rack on and secure in 3points. should be 4. I pulled mine in a bit on the bottom to maximize cabin space. (shortened the delrin spacers) I also drilled one out fully to allow me to instal a full thru bolt- instead of it just leaning into the wall of the 4runner as a brace.

Starting to load it up. So far- small shovel held with 2 quickfists, machete zip tied, Molle bag with 1Q oil/1Q ATF/roll Gorilla tape/~30zip ties/mossy repellant/bag of spare bolts n nuts, paper towel roll, mex. blanket slipped behind rack in window pocket, window shield tucked tightly behind rack, ice scraper bungeed to shovel.
Plan to add a large first aid bag in open area, and possibly a tow strap.

all done, i think it is a nice addition and has cleared up quite a bit of clutter in the rig. It is holding everything solid and does not rattle as it sits now. Not sure i would purchase it at full pop, or even half off- until they address the mounting issues and make the rack look as though it is cut to fit the 4th gen. Happy i have a window rack though.