The Deadhorse Run, part 1
The Deadhorse Run, part 1
Mile 5090
This goal has been a long time coming. A check on my bucket-list since I was a small boy, and part of a much grander scheme of connecting the long dotted line from Alaska to Argentina. I had a timeframe for this segment of the trip. Accomplish the drive north and return to pick up my sweetheart in Fairbanks by Friday June 27. I had set aside a couple days with a couple day buffer, just in case something happened. Truck, gas, route, weather, zombies, etc. Time to recover and be at the airport with a smile on my face. I pulled into Fairbanks on Tuesday afternoon, just coming off the Top of the World Highway segment. Cleared the email box, and wrote up a report for the thread. Standing outside the Starbucks at around 8pm, I debated my options and decided, "No time like the present". An hour later, I had finished gasing up and grabbing a bite to eat. I started north at 9pm, not sure how far I would go.
The Arctic Circle
Having over 20 hours of daylight per day is enlightening. I am very used to the sun going down on a daily basis, usually within a 3-4 hour variance on an annual basis. And especially being solo, I had all the time in the world. I headed north on highway 2. I climbed out of northern Fairbanks rather quickly, into rolling hills covered in pine. It narrows to a 2 lane pretty quick, and roughly an hour into the journey the road starts to vary between paved highway and compacted road grade. They use calcium on the graded roads up here, as it helps the pack get very hard. Trouble is that in wet weather, it also makes them slippery. I had checked the weather earlier in the day and saw that Deadhorse was going to see a 60% chance on Wednesday, Rain on Thursday and Friday. It's 495 miles from Fairbanks to Deadhorse. A long route by any estimation. And slippery wet 2 lane with 60mph semi trucks loomed in the back of my head. Time was of the essence.
As with anywhere up here, if you get above the trees the views are spectacular. No disappointment here. A 4-5 hour sunset provided the magical hours for photography. At around midnight, I pulled up to a hillside pullout with a big sign that told me I had reached the Arctic Circle. Wow. Made it. 66 degrees, 33 minutes, 44 seconds. And there waiting for my arrival was a swarm of mosquitos at the door. They bounced off the door like zombies at the gate, waiting for me. This was the first time on this trip that I had really seen many of the ghouls. A few here and there, but not like this. I prepped well before leaving, and have a chemical arsenal ready for war, but holy cow! I jumped out of the truck long enough to snap a photo, and back in I went. Here is a photo of the sign at midnight. I pulled the truck out of the way, crawled in back, and sacked out. 3 hours in.
Coldfoot AK
After a good long 5 hours of sleep, it was time to get going. The next goal was Coldfoot AK. Roughly 250 miles north of Fairbanks and the midway point on the long road to Deadhorse, it is the logical stop for fuel to head further on. The Coldfoot Camp was supposedly named for a goldminer that made it that far north in search of his fortune, got cold feet, and came back south. Mythical stuff that sticks. Anyway, the light outside hadn't changed much from midnight. The road became even more graded, and leveled out from the epically long inclines into a glacier valley. A quick stop for fuel and bug respite, and north we go. Mile 4845, 6:30am. 9-1/2 hours in
Deadhorse AK
The Dalton Highway is primarily a commercial road, 415 miles long with an extra 80 miles on Hwy 2 into Fairbanks. It was created specifically for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, built in the mid 1970s. Though there is public access, it is their road and you are on it. For 90% of the time, I was the only vehicle around. The other 10% was 9% oncoming semis and 1% everything else. I did see a fair share of dual sport riders, and a few international folk. It was the semis you fear. The standard procedure is to slow down, move right, and cringe as they pass. Most are decent, but several sprayed me with rocks and goo. From Coldfoot, you continue north up the glacier valley to a mountain range that comprises the continental divide for Alaska. A beautiful climb that reminded me of the high country in Ouray CO. Treeless, random snow, and incredible views. Off the north slope, you again head through another glacier valley. A little road work was the only required stop along the way. Mountains give way to open tundra the further north you go.
Deadhorse is about as anti-climatic as you can get. The stop sign at the first intersection is the official end of the Dalton Highway. That's it. I drove around a while, looking for the "Welcome to Deadhorse AK!!!!" sign. Nada. I guess there was one over close to the general store two blocks off to the east, but it isn't there any more. Checked the airport hotel. Nope Buzz kill. This is a oil town, not a tourist town. The dual sports and RVs wander around like lost children, looking for a sign. Sigh. I guess it really doesn't matter if there is someone there to validate your journey. I know the significance. It matters to me. It's been a long time coming, and I am here. So I jumped up and down, congratulated myself, gassed up and headed out. Sixteen hours after leaving Fairbanks, with 5 of that sleeping. Not too bad. The summit reached is only half the trip. It was overcast most of the day so far, but the south western horizon was turning dark grey. The forecast was for the weather to worsen. Better get going. Mile 5090, 1:00pm. 16 hours in