Evans waterless coolant

[911regular]

Anyone have any experience with waterless coolant?

Heavy duty coolant engineered to maximize diesel efficiency and engine life.
Technologically superior to all water-based coolants.
•In a traditional pressurized system, the water-based coolant must be maintained at a temperature below the boiling point of water to keep the system functional. The fan energy required to keep the coolant cold enough wastes a significant amount of fuel.
•Evans Waterless Heavy Duty Coolant can protect the engine at temperatures well above the boiling point of water, so the fan runs less and you save fuel.
•Evans Waterless Heavy Duty Coolant has a boiling point of 375°F at atmospheric pressure: and an operating temperature that is always more than 100°F colder than its boiling point.
•Coolant temperatures may be safely increased with Evans Waterless Heavy Duty Coolant due to this separation between operating temperature and boiling point


The above text was taken from their website.

 

[bfdiesel]

Sounds all fine a dandy, all the increase comes from the increase in operating temp(running a hotter thermostat). A lot more heat under the hood to melt stuff, transfer to the cab, make it so it has to sit (sit longer) before you can work on it, if you have an auto transmission more heat to sinking into it that now the trans cooler has to deal with. If you are going to buy it to just run a normal thermostat I would ask why waste the money.

 

[911regular]

the website also states better fuel mileage, less boil over, and less fan cycles. The boil over issue is what I was leaning towards. My truck runs great but likes to blow coolant out of the resevoir when ran really hard.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

I put Evans in when I had a new engine installed 2 years ago. Never an issue with it. It was expensive, can't say I really NEEDED it, but it works good.

 

[911regular]

Did you notice cooler operating temps?

 

[4xdog]

We've talked about this a lot on the vintage Triumphs list and the TR Register forum...

An important thing to remember is that although these ethylene and/or propylene glycol-based coolants have significantly higher boiling point than water or water-glycol blends, it comes at a price of lower heat capacity in the fluid. They do a poorer job of carrying heat away from the cylinders. That's a thermodynamic fact.

From info on the interwebs about the Evans waterless coolant it seems to be a blend of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol (that's speculative in part).

The 0 psi boiling point of propylene glycol is 375 F (190 C). Water alone is 212 F (100 C) of course. So much higher boiling for the waterless.

The heat capacity of water is about 4.2 J/cubic cm-K-degree. Propylene glycol is about 2.5, ethylene glycol about 2.4. Densities are less than 5% different, so on a volumetric basis water can carry over 60% greater heat. This is why we normally don't run 100% antifreeze in our systems, and probably one of the reasons my old TR was originally instructed to run with "clean rain water" unless it was frosty. More antifreeze isn't better

I'm not sold on the concept. I'm not looking to run my engine a LOT hotter -- especially the engine on the 51 year old TR3. If I need that much of an increase in boiling point to prevent boilover, I have bigger issues that need to be attended to.

 

[911regular]

that would be totally counter productive to what I need...I am trying to lower underhood temperatures. Guess I will try some hood louvers and some diesel waterwetter

 

[4xdog]

I haven't tried water wetters myself, but I have first-hand reports from folks I trust that have seen 5-10 F° temperature drops. It's on my list of things to experiment with one of these days.

I'm not completely convinced of the mechanism. Seems to have more to do with reducing cavitation than actual wetting. The claim that it "doubles the wetting ability of water" seems unconvincing. The surface energy of water is much lower than that of most metal surfaces already, so wetting should not be an issue.

Redline describe their WaterWetter as follows:
- Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°
- Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze
- Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
- Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
- Designed for use with all modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze cooling systems
- Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
- Reduces cavitation and complexes with hard water to reduce scaling
- Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature

It sounds like the prevention of bubble formation at the metal-fluid interface is an important part of how it works. Why one couldn't use a low-suds surfactant (like, for example, windshield washer fluid) to get the same effect, I dunno... I guess I gotta try some.

 

[911regular]

I've used it on ATV's and dirtbikes and seen a measurable difference. Guess I will throw a bottle in and see what happens,,,,

 

[Stumpalump]

I use Evans in the bikes for a few reasons. If you have the type of failure that allows the coolant into the engine oil then Evans is a lot better lubricant than water and Prestone. Evans returned a phone call to me a year ago and confirmed that there has never been a case in which Evans mixed in the oil caused a failure of internal engine components. To add to that it does not build or rely on pressure to cool. No pressure to blow hoses ,radiators or push its way into the oil or wherever in the first place. The main reason I use it is because it cools better despite its thermal dynamics because it does not form micro bubbles on the hottest parts in the head. Regular coolant is in a constant cycle of steam and liquid. I don't care if regular antifreeze is better at absorbing heat because when its full of tiny steamy bubbles in the head its not cooling as well as the constant liquid contact that only Evans provides. I use it in the bikes only because of the cost but if I was planning an extended remote journey in a typical Expo rig then it just may wind up being your best investment. One negative is that if you do loose your coolant you can't just add water to top it off. You would have to drain it all or as much as you can before going back to water based coolant. As far as running hotter.... That's a diesel trick to increase fuel mileage on long haul big rigs. The Evans allows this extra heat without the associated pressure build up and boil overs.

 

[bfdiesel]

I may be completely on a different track , but don't you want micro bubbles to form and break away as they are helping transfer more enthalpy to the coolant. I'll have to over think it some more I am sure. I do know the closer you run to water the greater heat transfer capability you will have, but you do have to run it under pressure and it will suck when it displaces or emulsifies the oil.
You are having boil over issues, you should look for the reason why and fix it not put a bandaid on it.

 

[911regular]

I have done everything to my diesel to stop coolant problems. Head studs, deleted the whole EGR system, all the updates from Ford. The well known diesel specialist in the area cant even figure it out. Doesnt pop any codes and the temperature does not even go up while its happening. I just hate smelling coolant after I hammer on it for a bit. The smart thing would be to stop hammering it,,,but thats no fun. Only possible explanation I was toldby different mechanics and such is air is getting into the system or its trapped in the sysytem and it is building up too much pressure and blowing out the resevoir cap (and yes I have replaced the cap and the resevoir).

 

[4xdog]

It seems you have to have a leak in the system to smell coolant. Is the overflow/expansion bottle level going up and down as expected?

I once had a small leak in an overflow bottle hose which fooled around with return siphoning flow back through the rad cap. It would overflow OK, but not flow back right on cooling. It would lead ton overheating and puking coolant.

My vehicle was much happier once the that the system was more "closed" (it's not a true closed system because the bottle was at atmospheric).

 

[911regular]

It seems you have to have a leak in the system to smell coolant. Is the overflow/expansion bottle level going up and down as expected?

I once had a small leak in an overflow bottle hose which fooled around with return siphoning flow back through the rad cap. It would overflow OK, but not flow back right on cooling. It would lead ton overheating and puking coolant.

My vehicle was much happier once the that the system was more "closed" (it's not a true closed system because the bottle was at atmospheric).

The only time/place I lose coolant is when it boils over and blows out thru the resevoir cap,,,otherwise not a drop anywhere.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

Did you notice cooler operating temps?

Yes, a little. What I did notice is my 7.3 likes to be nice and warm before she is put under a load. Sometimes, in the winter, that can lead to long warm up times... but she has never ran hot here in Indiana. First desert run not 'till next year, so we'll see.