Expedition Portal: The Land Rover 109 IIA Build
- Thread starter MattScott
- Start date
LR Max
Local Oaf
Don't know about you, but with my 109, it about being "normal enough". There is always SOMETHING!!!
I Leak Oil
Expedition Leader
You're a lot different than I pictured!:elkgrin:
MattScott
Approved Vendor
Well, after rebuilding my front brakes and carb, I thought all was well, then I realized that I had cut a brake line somehow, I can't find an alternate number either.
but...
for those of you looking for alternate part numbers...
http://www.ovlr.org/OVLR.alt.parts.html
but...
for those of you looking for alternate part numbers...
http://www.ovlr.org/OVLR.alt.parts.html
MattScott
Approved Vendor
For those of you who like to see this truck being used, here's a trip report!
A Trail Run With a Land Rover IIA: Dust, Dust, and a Broken Shock Bushing
A Trail Run With a Land Rover IIA: Dust, Dust, and a Broken Shock Bushing
ini88
Adventurer
Why are you now selling it? Sorry to see thats, seems like you were enjoying it 
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/3142127908.html
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/3142127908.html
MattScott
Approved Vendor
Ed,
Sadly the Rover did sell.
It's all about trading your problems for others isn't it?
modrover
Still breathing...
UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE
3/13/16 UPDATE on Ralph:
So, I've had the privilege of ownership for a year and a half now... and he's doing very well.
When I bought Ralph, he was in pretty bad shape. I'm not sure how many owners he had between the OP here and myself, but the neglect was obvious. Pretty typical for old Rovers though. You know, neglected, but still continuing to serve.
Here's a short list of the issues and fixes:
- every ball joint was ready to fall apart so I replaced all those.
- steering relay looked like it had never had oil in so I serviced that (steering box leaked, but I used a 140w gear oil in that and it's holding). The relay and arms had also been loose so those all got properly tightened. I also adjusted the tow-in as that was out of spec.
- front locking MAP hubs had been leaking bad so I installed new o-rings and gaskets.
- rear hubs and wheel cylinders had been leaking so I replaced those (rear wheel bearings had a ton of play so also got properly set up). The rear brake springs had also been improperly installed so I sorted that too.
- it has parabolic springs already on it, but it listed bad to one side. Thankfully, swapping the rear springs sorted that one. I also lubed up those para springs and bushings... so quiet and smooth now.
- shocks had been the wrong type (generic Monroe?) so I installed some Old Man Emu shocks.
- it had a Rochester carb on it, but the shaft was beyond fixing and it was, IMHO, the wrong size - this was the typical Chevy 235 application bolted on here. I sourced the smaller Chevy 216 application Rochester carb (slight modification to the base of carb done to fit the Rover manifold) and that sorted out that out nicely.
- valves had been way out of adjustment so those got put to spec.
- the distributor had some pretty good wear and the points required frequent adj. so I replaced the whole unit with a Pertronix electronic ignition (old dist. resides in seat box as back-up).
- the generator was grinding and not able to keep up with lights and wipers so I converted it to the AC delco alternator. I also replaced the ammeter with a VDO voltmeter.
- numerous electrical fire hazards found (my fav was the starter solenoid hanging by only one loose screw by the tension of the battery cable!!!) so those I painstakingly sorted.
- only the speedometer and oil gauge worked... and the oil warning light was always on (you can actually see that light being on as far back as this thread). A new oil sender sorted the warning light. The fuel and temp gauge was traced to the voltage regulator behind the dash so I converted that little regulator's guts to solid state guts and that sorted those... oh... after the fuel sender wires at the tank got moved to their proper posts. And guess what? That's when the old (and very cool looking) capillary oil gauge packed it in so I replaced that with a matching VDO electronic oil pressure gauge.
- only the hi-beams worked... none of the other lights had been functional (including turn signals). I ended up tracing these to bad grounds and improperly wired connections. JOY! Lights! The turn signal issues got traced to a bad flasher so that was easy.
- the clutch master was weeping and the slave gave out so I took the opportunity to upgrade the master to the Series III style (this has the old shared brake/clutch canister system and I prefer the safety of separate canisters for brake and clutch fluids).
- it only had front static seat belts (and this is a factory 12-seater) so I sourced some inertia reel three point seat belts for front and middle seats (the rear jump seats even got treated to lap belts).
- the seats... well... just trashed. Typical ripped and duct tape fixes. As this was to be my family daily driver, I had to do better. I sourced a good set of front and middle Moorland seats from an early 110. Boy, what a difference those made in comfort (and still fully functional with access to front seat box and middle seat folding). Later, I was fortunate to locate a set of hi-back Moorland seat backs for the middle row. Much safer.
- and the rear diff/axles... well... I'll admit this was a total splurge. I upgraded the 2-pin diff and 10-spline setup to a GBR 24-spline with TrueTrac & thick cut 7/33 4.71 ring and pinion and GBR 24-spline axles. I'm proactive when it comes to the Rover rear end. I like the ease of working with Rover 3rd members so I chose this over the Salisbury swap.
- installed a used full length galv roof rack (and added flooring to it).
- then just the typical servicing of all fluids and filters (checked frequently now).
Whoa! This short list is getting long! There's more, but you get the idea. Yes, some of these had been typical old Rover issues, but others had been just simply dangerous. All sorted and used daily now. Reliable as an old Rover can be anyway.
What's next? Updating the brakes to Series III pedal box servo setup, sorting out the improperly installed window channel, redoing the funky headliner sections, redoing the door seals, yadda yadda yadda...
Overall... it's been a good old rig (not my first Rover so I know my way around) and I plan to keep old Ralph here running daily and working for a living. Just thought Ralph deserved an update... oh... and finally did get his "build."
3/13/16 UPDATE on Ralph:
So, I've had the privilege of ownership for a year and a half now... and he's doing very well.
When I bought Ralph, he was in pretty bad shape. I'm not sure how many owners he had between the OP here and myself, but the neglect was obvious. Pretty typical for old Rovers though. You know, neglected, but still continuing to serve.
Here's a short list of the issues and fixes:
- every ball joint was ready to fall apart so I replaced all those.
- steering relay looked like it had never had oil in so I serviced that (steering box leaked, but I used a 140w gear oil in that and it's holding). The relay and arms had also been loose so those all got properly tightened. I also adjusted the tow-in as that was out of spec.
- front locking MAP hubs had been leaking bad so I installed new o-rings and gaskets.
- rear hubs and wheel cylinders had been leaking so I replaced those (rear wheel bearings had a ton of play so also got properly set up). The rear brake springs had also been improperly installed so I sorted that too.
- it has parabolic springs already on it, but it listed bad to one side. Thankfully, swapping the rear springs sorted that one. I also lubed up those para springs and bushings... so quiet and smooth now.
- shocks had been the wrong type (generic Monroe?) so I installed some Old Man Emu shocks.
- it had a Rochester carb on it, but the shaft was beyond fixing and it was, IMHO, the wrong size - this was the typical Chevy 235 application bolted on here. I sourced the smaller Chevy 216 application Rochester carb (slight modification to the base of carb done to fit the Rover manifold) and that sorted out that out nicely.
- valves had been way out of adjustment so those got put to spec.
- the distributor had some pretty good wear and the points required frequent adj. so I replaced the whole unit with a Pertronix electronic ignition (old dist. resides in seat box as back-up).
- the generator was grinding and not able to keep up with lights and wipers so I converted it to the AC delco alternator. I also replaced the ammeter with a VDO voltmeter.
- numerous electrical fire hazards found (my fav was the starter solenoid hanging by only one loose screw by the tension of the battery cable!!!) so those I painstakingly sorted.
- only the speedometer and oil gauge worked... and the oil warning light was always on (you can actually see that light being on as far back as this thread
). A new oil sender sorted the warning light. The fuel and temp gauge was traced to the voltage regulator behind the dash so I converted that little regulator's guts to solid state guts and that sorted those... oh... after the fuel sender wires at the tank got moved to their proper posts. And guess what? That's when the old (and very cool looking) capillary oil gauge packed it in so I replaced that with a matching VDO electronic oil pressure gauge. - only the hi-beams worked... none of the other lights had been functional (including turn signals). I ended up tracing these to bad grounds and improperly wired connections. JOY! Lights!
The turn signal issues got traced to a bad flasher so that was easy.- the clutch master was weeping and the slave gave out so I took the opportunity to upgrade the master to the Series III style (this has the old shared brake/clutch canister system and I prefer the safety of separate canisters for brake and clutch fluids).
- it only had front static seat belts (and this is a factory 12-seater) so I sourced some inertia reel three point seat belts for front and middle seats (the rear jump seats even got treated to lap belts).
- the seats... well... just trashed. Typical ripped and duct tape fixes. As this was to be my family daily driver, I had to do better. I sourced a good set of front and middle Moorland seats from an early 110. Boy, what a difference those made in comfort (and still fully functional with access to front seat box and middle seat folding). Later, I was fortunate to locate a set of hi-back Moorland seat backs for the middle row. Much safer.
- and the rear diff/axles... well... I'll admit this was a total splurge. I upgraded the 2-pin diff and 10-spline setup to a GBR 24-spline with TrueTrac & thick cut 7/33 4.71 ring and pinion and GBR 24-spline axles. I'm proactive when it comes to the Rover rear end. I like the ease of working with Rover 3rd members so I chose this over the Salisbury swap.
- installed a used full length galv roof rack (and added flooring to it).
- then just the typical servicing of all fluids and filters (checked frequently now).
Whoa! This short list is getting long!
There's more, but you get the idea. Yes, some of these had been typical old Rover issues, but others had been just simply dangerous. All sorted and used daily now. Reliable as an old Rover can be anyway. What's next? Updating the brakes to Series III pedal box servo setup, sorting out the improperly installed window channel, redoing the funky headliner sections, redoing the door seals, yadda yadda yadda...
Overall... it's been a good old rig (not my first Rover so I know my way around) and I plan to keep old Ralph here running daily and working for a living. Just thought Ralph deserved an update... oh... and finally did get his "build."
Last edited:
modrover
Still breathing...
Thank you! I'll try and get some photos loaded up on here.
modrover
Still breathing...
Taking 1st Place at the Portland All British Field Meet was a huge delight! It really gave me a sense of achievement... that I was doing right by it. Especially when i recall the previous owner (not the OP here) had entered it a year before me... and he didn't even place. All that hard work does pay off I guess.