Expo 4x4 Camper Van Project
- Thread starter toyotatruckjunkie
- Start date
toyotatruckjunkie
Adventurer
Questions for others
Don't really know for sure if that was mine you saw a year ago or not.
I finally got to work on it a little bit tonight. I removed the stupid PVC pipe under the rear that held the sewer pipe. I need to reengineer something else for that purpose, but that thing was ugly, and caused a major loss of departure angle. Might try to incorporate storage for it into my custom rear bumper/hitch/spare carrier/cooler carrier/gas can holder........
I also made my first attempt at sealing up a crack in the grey water holding tank. I say my first attempt, but I sure hope it's my only attempt. While I was under it, I was trying to figure out how to redo the dump valves like Spence did to gain more ground clearance.
The black water comes down vertically from the floor, and could be repositioned to point straight down, and yet not hang below the frame for ground clearance/protection. The grey water actually exits the side of the tank, and runs under the frame rail, over to the valve at the side of the van. Not sure how to reengineer that one yet.
I was also looking at raising the propane tank like Spence did. Mine is hanging from brackets that have multiple holes in them. I think I can simply unbolt it, raise it, and choose another set of holes to raise it closer to the floor. Does anyone know if the fill valve and other connections need to be at an angle near the bottom of the tank, or can I rotate it, putting the valves/connections pointing straight down? This would allow me to raise the tank up much higher, above the frame rails (or at least the rocker panels). The way they are now, it makes it easier to fill the tank from standing next to the van, as opposed to having to get under it. I need to remove the running boards next. Stay tuned for this one.
I also started rewiring the stereo. I'm eventually going to replace it with something higher end w/ satellite, but the wiring was not done very well, and speakers were cutting out. While I was at it, I was thinking about wiring it to a constant power source so that we could use it without having to have the keys on hand. My concern is drawing down the chassis battery. I should rewire it to the coach battery. Does anyone have thoughts about/experience with this type of setup? Maybe I should just find a switched/acc power and use my keys so that it can't be left on by accident.
I'm also looking for advice on flooring materials. The PO did a lousy job installing lousy looking self adhesive tile squares. It definitely needs replaced. Carpet doesn't really seem practical to me. Hard surface, easy to sweep out, seems the only choice.
I was originally thinking about using hardwood. I've seen a few campers redone with it, and it looks nice. The area is small enough (~30SF) that the cost wouldn't really be prohibitive, but I'm worrying about the moisture that is sure to make it's way into the unit. No offense to anyone, but I don't really care for the Pergo type materials. They do make some nice looking self adhesive tile squares nowadays. Not sure how long they would last. A buddy gave me a roll of left over linoleum last night. The price was right, but it's really light/white. Not sure how long that will look ok. And I'm not sure how easy that will be to cut in the appropriate pattern to use it all one piece. Guess I'll make a template with cardboard, or even paper. Does anyone have any thoughts on flooring materials for our type of rigs?
How about covering/painting the walls and cabinets? Thinking about using laminate material designed for countertops. Seems like it may work well. Here I would like to use a light color to lighten up the interior.
Just some thoughts that monopolize my head nowadays. Any and all comments accepted.
Don't really know for sure if that was mine you saw a year ago or not.
I finally got to work on it a little bit tonight. I removed the stupid PVC pipe under the rear that held the sewer pipe. I need to reengineer something else for that purpose, but that thing was ugly, and caused a major loss of departure angle. Might try to incorporate storage for it into my custom rear bumper/hitch/spare carrier/cooler carrier/gas can holder........
I also made my first attempt at sealing up a crack in the grey water holding tank. I say my first attempt, but I sure hope it's my only attempt. While I was under it, I was trying to figure out how to redo the dump valves like Spence did to gain more ground clearance.
The black water comes down vertically from the floor, and could be repositioned to point straight down, and yet not hang below the frame for ground clearance/protection. The grey water actually exits the side of the tank, and runs under the frame rail, over to the valve at the side of the van. Not sure how to reengineer that one yet.
I was also looking at raising the propane tank like Spence did. Mine is hanging from brackets that have multiple holes in them. I think I can simply unbolt it, raise it, and choose another set of holes to raise it closer to the floor. Does anyone know if the fill valve and other connections need to be at an angle near the bottom of the tank, or can I rotate it, putting the valves/connections pointing straight down? This would allow me to raise the tank up much higher, above the frame rails (or at least the rocker panels). The way they are now, it makes it easier to fill the tank from standing next to the van, as opposed to having to get under it. I need to remove the running boards next. Stay tuned for this one.
I also started rewiring the stereo. I'm eventually going to replace it with something higher end w/ satellite, but the wiring was not done very well, and speakers were cutting out. While I was at it, I was thinking about wiring it to a constant power source so that we could use it without having to have the keys on hand. My concern is drawing down the chassis battery. I should rewire it to the coach battery. Does anyone have thoughts about/experience with this type of setup? Maybe I should just find a switched/acc power and use my keys so that it can't be left on by accident.
I'm also looking for advice on flooring materials. The PO did a lousy job installing lousy looking self adhesive tile squares. It definitely needs replaced. Carpet doesn't really seem practical to me. Hard surface, easy to sweep out, seems the only choice.
I was originally thinking about using hardwood. I've seen a few campers redone with it, and it looks nice. The area is small enough (~30SF) that the cost wouldn't really be prohibitive, but I'm worrying about the moisture that is sure to make it's way into the unit. No offense to anyone, but I don't really care for the Pergo type materials. They do make some nice looking self adhesive tile squares nowadays. Not sure how long they would last. A buddy gave me a roll of left over linoleum last night. The price was right, but it's really light/white. Not sure how long that will look ok. And I'm not sure how easy that will be to cut in the appropriate pattern to use it all one piece. Guess I'll make a template with cardboard, or even paper. Does anyone have any thoughts on flooring materials for our type of rigs?
How about covering/painting the walls and cabinets? Thinking about using laminate material designed for countertops. Seems like it may work well. Here I would like to use a light color to lighten up the interior.
Just some thoughts that monopolize my head nowadays. Any and all comments accepted.
I almost bought one of those at an auction about 5 yrs. ago. I would of scored it for $1000 if one other person hadn't wanted it more than me, I dropped out at $3000. I instead bought a 4x4 Transvan which was a pile of junk but already had the Pathfinder conversion. That was 4 yrs ago and I am just finishing the restoration. In the long run it would of been alot easier to convert a nice 2wd camper van like yours to 4x4 than completely rebuild the camper part. As for flooring I armour coated the cab portion and used heavy duty commercial vinyl for the camper.
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
I'm currently building a 02 E350 4x4. I used foam rubber tiles from Costco. They are 2' x 2' diamond plate looking grey foam tiles that snap together like a puzzle. They cut with scissors and I was even able to cut and glue over the wheel wells. It took 3 packs at $14.00 a pack but I bought a 4th pack to cover the shelfs because I liked the material so much. It can be damage if you slide something like a heavy sharp toolbox across it but I have spares to pop in the places that may get beat up. It deadened the sound from the floor and wheel wells and adds 1/2" of foam insulation to the floor. Even if the cost was a couple of hundred I'd do it again. I can post a pict if you need to see it. I'm heading to Moab Utah for 7 days and if it does not far well then I'll let you know. So far with all my build traffic and loading for my trip, it's been perfect. This is a link to a similar product:http://www.commercialmatsandrubber.com/c43/Reversible-Soft-Floor-p914.html
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Propane Tank:
The fuel pick-up is usually located where it picks up vapor rather than liquid. I'd research this and see if your proposed rotation will affect it or not.
Stereo:
What I would propose that you do first is visualize what the whole 12 VDC electrical system wants to look like when done (yeah, right, like these things are ever 'done'.) Make the mods now that allow for moving in the direction of that vision and try to allow room for expansion.
An option that I wish that I'd done on one vehicle was to use a Cole-Hersee p/n 24059 85 amp continuous duty solenoid powered off the 'house' battery.
Attached to that would be those things that I might want to operate with the key off. I would turn on the solenoid with either a switch and with an ignition source. That way all of those things go on and off with the key unless I specifically flip the switch. I would consider whether to have an indicator light showing when that switch is on so that it is not accidentally left on.
The fuel pick-up is usually located where it picks up vapor rather than liquid. I'd research this and see if your proposed rotation will affect it or not.
Stereo:
What I would propose that you do first is visualize what the whole 12 VDC electrical system wants to look like when done (yeah, right, like these things are ever 'done'.) Make the mods now that allow for moving in the direction of that vision and try to allow room for expansion.
An option that I wish that I'd done on one vehicle was to use a Cole-Hersee p/n 24059 85 amp continuous duty solenoid powered off the 'house' battery.
Attached to that would be those things that I might want to operate with the key off. I would turn on the solenoid with either a switch and with an ignition source. That way all of those things go on and off with the key unless I specifically flip the switch. I would consider whether to have an indicator light showing when that switch is on so that it is not accidentally left on.
Last edited:
toyotatruckjunkie
Adventurer
I like the diamond plate snap together stuff idea. Please report on it's durability.
The guy at the propane refilling place told me that there is some sort of auto shut off valve in the tank, or I guess it was in his filling nozzle, that requires the fill valves on the tank be pretty horizontal. That answers my question of rotating the tank, allowing me to put it farther up, behind the rockers. Oh well.
I also like the solenoid idea. Since I posted my question, I've done a bit more research on that too, and it seems my idea is far from new. Sportsmobile does something similar, and my father told me his last Class A motorhome had the same type of switch as well. Definitely something I'm going to install. As it is now, I just put it back together running off the key. Thanks for the input.
No other real exciting updates. I did find a 2" hitch that I think will mount normally, clearing the holding tank plumbing. This eliminates the NEED to make custom bumpers. Not that I don't still want them, but I will be able to tow my other junk until such time that I get to making bumpers. Dying to get it installed, but no time this weekend.
Think my second attempt has sealed up the grey water tank leak. Will keep you posted.
The guy at the propane refilling place told me that there is some sort of auto shut off valve in the tank, or I guess it was in his filling nozzle, that requires the fill valves on the tank be pretty horizontal. That answers my question of rotating the tank, allowing me to put it farther up, behind the rockers. Oh well.
I also like the solenoid idea. Since I posted my question, I've done a bit more research on that too, and it seems my idea is far from new. Sportsmobile does something similar, and my father told me his last Class A motorhome had the same type of switch as well. Definitely something I'm going to install. As it is now, I just put it back together running off the key. Thanks for the input.
No other real exciting updates. I did find a 2" hitch that I think will mount normally, clearing the holding tank plumbing. This eliminates the NEED to make custom bumpers. Not that I don't still want them, but I will be able to tow my other junk until such time that I get to making bumpers. Dying to get it installed, but no time this weekend.
Think my second attempt has sealed up the grey water tank leak. Will keep you posted.
Haha...your van has the exact same top mine does! I hope you didn't pay $5k....you'd shoot me if you knew how much I picked up mine for.
Looks like a good base though. Not sure I'd bother with a 4x conversion if I were you. For the kind of traveling you're considering, I'd think a mild lift, some decent A/T's, and possibly a selectable locker for the rear axle will do it for ya. Remember, these campers (at least mine anyway) aren't wheeling machines. You need to play WAY ahead when going down any unmaintained road, as getting rigs our size extracted would require a bulldozer. The other serious consideration which seriously limits the places you'll go is the height. I stand over 9'-6" tall right now, and I've been considering running a slightly taller tire. Most trails don't allow this kind of height. Don't get me wrong...I've used 4WD plenty, but most of it has been in the snow, and even then it wasn't absolutly necessary.
Just some thoughts. Best of luck.
Spence
Looks like a good base though. Not sure I'd bother with a 4x conversion if I were you. For the kind of traveling you're considering, I'd think a mild lift, some decent A/T's, and possibly a selectable locker for the rear axle will do it for ya. Remember, these campers (at least mine anyway) aren't wheeling machines. You need to play WAY ahead when going down any unmaintained road, as getting rigs our size extracted would require a bulldozer. The other serious consideration which seriously limits the places you'll go is the height. I stand over 9'-6" tall right now, and I've been considering running a slightly taller tire. Most trails don't allow this kind of height. Don't get me wrong...I've used 4WD plenty, but most of it has been in the snow, and even then it wasn't absolutly necessary.
Just some thoughts. Best of luck.
Spence
toyotatruckjunkie
Adventurer
Well Spence, by the sounds of it, I may not want to know what you paid for yours, but I paid $4k for mine. May seem like a lot to some, but I justified it by considering that the rig only has 60k miles, it already has a Onan generator w/ 63 hrs (worth ~$2000+), a working 3 way fridge (~$1200), AC (w/ opt. heater element), gas furnace, awning, microwave, inside shower (albeit small), hot water.....The biggest drawback to me was that it's only 2wd, and I know anything is possible. I've got big dreams, and friends with mad welding skills. I've found a whole cult culture of 4wd van guys. (Like I needed another vehicular cult to get into.)
I understand what you are saying about the limitations of a rig this size. I agree. I haven't measured, but think I'm pushing 10' tall too. It will NOT be my rock-crawling rig. I'm hoping it will TOW my rock-crawling rig to the trail, or my boat to the ocean, and handle some light duty off-road adventures. My next one will probably have a pop-top, so that the height isn't such a full-time limitation.
I REALLY want it to take me out on the beaches of the Texas coast, or the Outer Banks of NC, or Baja Mexico, or places I don't even know about yet, where I can camp, off the grid, fully self-contained. I know too much about driving on the beach to think this thing will make it w/o the front pulling too. It weighs entirely too much. I plan to put ~33's on it for some flotation. Locking diffs are on the list too.
I know they aren't the hardcore expedition rig that some desire (myself included), but it is really growing on me. This one is kind of a test too. If we like the size and idea of a camper van, I may try to justify a newer one, or if I hit the lottery, a real SMB. I feel relatively confident that I will be able to sell this one for what I have in it when I'm done with it.
I understand what you are saying about the limitations of a rig this size. I agree. I haven't measured, but think I'm pushing 10' tall too. It will NOT be my rock-crawling rig. I'm hoping it will TOW my rock-crawling rig to the trail, or my boat to the ocean, and handle some light duty off-road adventures. My next one will probably have a pop-top, so that the height isn't such a full-time limitation.
I REALLY want it to take me out on the beaches of the Texas coast, or the Outer Banks of NC, or Baja Mexico, or places I don't even know about yet, where I can camp, off the grid, fully self-contained. I know too much about driving on the beach to think this thing will make it w/o the front pulling too. It weighs entirely too much. I plan to put ~33's on it for some flotation. Locking diffs are on the list too.
I know they aren't the hardcore expedition rig that some desire (myself included), but it is really growing on me. This one is kind of a test too. If we like the size and idea of a camper van, I may try to justify a newer one, or if I hit the lottery, a real SMB. I feel relatively confident that I will be able to sell this one for what I have in it when I'm done with it.
$4k is a respectable amount....especially given the equipment and the mileage. Is it gas or diesel?
I've actually thought about possibly removing the top on mine at some point in the distant future and doing a pop top. You'll never find the economy in buying a newer rig...they are just too expensive and depriciate too fast. I really like my '86 because its value just isn't going down anymore if I maintain its condition. The tops on these rigs (I assume yours is a Falcon conversion like mine) are really just screwed on with the stock sheetmetal cut to just about where it rounds the bend to horizontal. Removing it wouldn't be an unreasonable task, and adding a new pop top would be rather simple. Just something to think about. I still don't think vans like ours will ever be serious wheeling machines just due to the fact that the CG is so high, regardless of a permanent or pop top. Mine is certainly less "tippy" since installing the airbag suspension, but it still isn't something I care to put much past 15 degrees over vertical.
Congrats on the rig...its gunna be cool.
Spence
I've actually thought about possibly removing the top on mine at some point in the distant future and doing a pop top. You'll never find the economy in buying a newer rig...they are just too expensive and depriciate too fast. I really like my '86 because its value just isn't going down anymore if I maintain its condition. The tops on these rigs (I assume yours is a Falcon conversion like mine) are really just screwed on with the stock sheetmetal cut to just about where it rounds the bend to horizontal. Removing it wouldn't be an unreasonable task, and adding a new pop top would be rather simple. Just something to think about. I still don't think vans like ours will ever be serious wheeling machines just due to the fact that the CG is so high, regardless of a permanent or pop top. Mine is certainly less "tippy" since installing the airbag suspension, but it still isn't something I care to put much past 15 degrees over vertical.
Congrats on the rig...its gunna be cool.
Spence
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
After 6 days of camping in Moab the floor looks like new. I swept out rocks and sand 3 times and only see 1 small cut. I threw one of my trailer wheel ramps in it when it came loose going down the bumpy roads. Thats probably what cut it but as cheap as they are replacement is simple. I won't replace it because it just has a small nick. It would have wasted hardwood. I say it's good stuff and with the sound and insulating qualitys it's perfect. It's was also nice to kneel on when I was trying to keep the mud from my boots off of it while just tryng to grab somthing.
As far as 4x4, my van has it and it saved our trip. A lot of the good camping spots were filled and to get back to the real nice ones and away from traffic it was 4x4 only. Nothing extream but I was pulling my Jeep and Rokon 2x2 dirt bike on a trailer. I would have never made it in 2 wheel drive plus the low range of the T-case is nice on the really ruff sections. I say convert it. You have low miles and all the nice equipment. I bought a 02 4x4 E350 with raised roof and genny but I had to add all the other goddies and it still need more. You allready have all the good stuff for a camper so to have a 4x4 conversion will put you in a whole other leage. Nice low milage rig to boot. Is that motor EFI? If so then it's perfect.
toyotatruckjunkie
Adventurer
Thanks for the additional words of encouragement. I haven't had time to do much with it in the last 2 weeks. Got the hitch installed. Now need to do the trailer brake wiring.
It does have the fuel injected 351 gas motor. It was my choice of the available gas motors of that vintage. I felt the 302 would be too small, and the big block 460 would probably have been too much of a gas hog (not that the 351 isn't too). I really wanted the FI. I'm fighting carb issues on the FJ40. Enough of that. I like old school stuff, but FI is a wonderful advancement in my eyes.
I found the diamond plate snap together stuff your talking about at my local Pep Boys. They had 2 diff brands, that didn't look like they would snap together with each other, and not enough of either brand. I think I'm going to try the free linolium I got from a buddy first, but will keep this stuff in mind for the next round. Did you put the trim around the stepwells back in place over the edges? Does it compress enough for that? I appreciate the update. Sounds like a great trip to Moab. Yet another place on my list of places to go in it when I get it done.
Anyone have any experience replacing the side and back door windows with factory opening ones? I found some in a van in a boneyard, but I need to know how to pull the windows, the gaskets, and the hinges out of the donor van w/o destroying them. Anyone find ready made screens for van windows? I am planning to make my own if I can't buy them.
As a side note; when I was rewiring the stereo, I found that my switched (ACC) power lead (yellow w/blk stripe) isn't hot, key on or not. Not sure where that wire runs to. My fuse box cover is missing, my Haynes manual doesn't tell me, and all the fuses in the box appear to be good. I pulled a layout of the fuse box off the net, but everything at that end appears to be good. Anyone have any ideas where else that wire might go from the IGN swtich to the fuse box?
It does have the fuel injected 351 gas motor. It was my choice of the available gas motors of that vintage. I felt the 302 would be too small, and the big block 460 would probably have been too much of a gas hog (not that the 351 isn't too). I really wanted the FI. I'm fighting carb issues on the FJ40. Enough of that. I like old school stuff, but FI is a wonderful advancement in my eyes.
I found the diamond plate snap together stuff your talking about at my local Pep Boys. They had 2 diff brands, that didn't look like they would snap together with each other, and not enough of either brand. I think I'm going to try the free linolium I got from a buddy first, but will keep this stuff in mind for the next round. Did you put the trim around the stepwells back in place over the edges? Does it compress enough for that? I appreciate the update. Sounds like a great trip to Moab. Yet another place on my list of places to go in it when I get it done.
Anyone have any experience replacing the side and back door windows with factory opening ones? I found some in a van in a boneyard, but I need to know how to pull the windows, the gaskets, and the hinges out of the donor van w/o destroying them. Anyone find ready made screens for van windows? I am planning to make my own if I can't buy them.
As a side note; when I was rewiring the stereo, I found that my switched (ACC) power lead (yellow w/blk stripe) isn't hot, key on or not. Not sure where that wire runs to. My fuse box cover is missing, my Haynes manual doesn't tell me, and all the fuses in the box appear to be good. I pulled a layout of the fuse box off the net, but everything at that end appears to be good. Anyone have any ideas where else that wire might go from the IGN swtich to the fuse box?
I've been dealing with the little yellow wires behind the dash lately in hopes of finding an electrical gremlin too....how odd.
The yellow/black should be hot all the time. The solid yellow wires are switched with the ignition. There is a fuse that ties into this circuit....I think its the 4th one down on the left if your box is anything like mine (small glass fuses?). I could have avoided all my slicing and dicing if I'd just checked the fuse first! Idiot! My knowledge is coming from working on an '86 and I'm pretty sure up to '91 is all the same.
Spence
The yellow/black should be hot all the time. The solid yellow wires are switched with the ignition. There is a fuse that ties into this circuit....I think its the 4th one down on the left if your box is anything like mine (small glass fuses?). I could have avoided all my slicing and dicing if I'd just checked the fuse first! Idiot! My knowledge is coming from working on an '86 and I'm pretty sure up to '91 is all the same.
Spence
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
On the threshold for the sliding door I used a piece of Home Depot 2x2" aluminum angle and the rear I left butted to the factory threshold. It compresses enough and seems to cut and trim into anything you want real nice.
toyotatruckjunkie
Adventurer
ELEC GREMLINS; Apparently somewhere between '86 and '89 they switched to blade style fuses. Bad for you, good for me. I thought for sure I had determined that they used ylw/blk for ACC power in '89, but since it doesn't work, I'll have to get back in there and check for just ylw. I had found some website that lists factory wiring colors for installing aftermarket stereos. It was pretty useful, but apparently I didn't print it out. If you need it, I'll relocate the website.
FLOOR COVERING; Mine doesn't currently have the trim around the step-wells. Coachmen in their infinite wisdom decided it would be good to run the floor carpet down into the step-wells. As you can imagine after 20 yrs of dirty shoes, and leaking door gaskets, the carpet in the step-wells is NASTY. I plan to take it all out, leaving the painted metal and alum step tread thingy. Should be much easier to sweep out dirt and sand.
BUT, in the vans I found in a local boneyard, I saw that they have factory trim around their step-wells (all 3 side doors). I thought that would be a great idea to cover the edge of whatever floor product I use. I plan to get them when I get the flip-out windows.
Speaking of flip out windows, and the screens I'll need for them, I found a company in Australia that makes pretty cool flexible magnetic screens for vehicle windows, but there is no listing on their website for American vans like mine. Neat idea though. I plan to use velcro to attach mine to the inside of the doors. On a similar note, I bought a screen wall kit for a freestanding 10x10 canopy thing off the clearance table @ Pep Boys for $5. Plan to adapt it to my awning for a screened room, or cut it up to make screens for the side and rear door openings. Figured for $5 bucks I couldn't go wrong.
They also have a 3 wall/wind screen attachment thing for the same freestanding canopy thing. I may go back and buy that for a privacy screen to run between the rear doors (when opened) to provide some privacy for an outdoor shower. The shower nozzle is long enough as-is to reach outside the back doors. You can already reach the shower valves while standing outside. I plan to build (or buy) a small flexible/roll out standing platform to keep your toes out of the sand while showering. Should be easy/cheap for outside shower capability. Stay tuned.
Speaking of leaking door gaskets, does anyone have specific luck with replacing door gaskets? I found that JCWhitney has some for my van, but I don't have any experience with.
I really wish I had more time to play with this thing. It really is pretty neat. I know, pics are worth a thousand words. Pics will be coming.
FLOOR COVERING; Mine doesn't currently have the trim around the step-wells. Coachmen in their infinite wisdom decided it would be good to run the floor carpet down into the step-wells. As you can imagine after 20 yrs of dirty shoes, and leaking door gaskets, the carpet in the step-wells is NASTY. I plan to take it all out, leaving the painted metal and alum step tread thingy. Should be much easier to sweep out dirt and sand.
BUT, in the vans I found in a local boneyard, I saw that they have factory trim around their step-wells (all 3 side doors). I thought that would be a great idea to cover the edge of whatever floor product I use. I plan to get them when I get the flip-out windows.
Speaking of flip out windows, and the screens I'll need for them, I found a company in Australia that makes pretty cool flexible magnetic screens for vehicle windows, but there is no listing on their website for American vans like mine. Neat idea though. I plan to use velcro to attach mine to the inside of the doors. On a similar note, I bought a screen wall kit for a freestanding 10x10 canopy thing off the clearance table @ Pep Boys for $5. Plan to adapt it to my awning for a screened room, or cut it up to make screens for the side and rear door openings. Figured for $5 bucks I couldn't go wrong.
They also have a 3 wall/wind screen attachment thing for the same freestanding canopy thing. I may go back and buy that for a privacy screen to run between the rear doors (when opened) to provide some privacy for an outdoor shower. The shower nozzle is long enough as-is to reach outside the back doors. You can already reach the shower valves while standing outside. I plan to build (or buy) a small flexible/roll out standing platform to keep your toes out of the sand while showering. Should be easy/cheap for outside shower capability. Stay tuned.
Speaking of leaking door gaskets, does anyone have specific luck with replacing door gaskets? I found that JCWhitney has some for my van, but I don't have any experience with.
I really wish I had more time to play with this thing. It really is pretty neat. I know, pics are worth a thousand words. Pics will be coming.