EyeInTheSky's Gen 3 Budget Build Thread
- Thread starter EyeInTheSky
- Start date
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Thank you all for the positive encouragement. I had it towed to the shop yesterday morning so I'll update as I hear from them. It's probably going to be something stupid, but I couldn't deal with the frustration anymore. I honestly don't enjoy wrenching like this, especially when it's fairly high stakes. Here's hoping it's a $20 cam sensor or something else equally simple.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Alright boys, it's time. The shop got her going so I'm waiting for my ride over there so I can pick it up. Just in time for me to leave the country for three weeks for work. :-/
Offroadmuch
Explorer
Can't wait to hear what it was. Hope it runs like new!
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
The good:
It runs!
Temp/timing advance/fuel trim etc all seem within spec.
Power is at least as good as when I drove it last.
No signs of impending doom.
The not so good:
Sounds like friggin' grasshoppers under my hood. Passenger side idler pulley is my main suspect. New one should arrive next week (wife is going to install it since I'll be gone).
P0155 code, O2 sensor. Probably got damaged while I was working on it. Going to test it tomorrow once the exhaust has cooled down.
I'm so happy.
It looks like there was a combination of issues that kept it from starting. The cam sensor kept throwing a code, so that got replaced. The spark plugs were also fouled with fuel from cranking so many times. Also, some anti-seize seeped in on a couple, so I got a little over-zealous with that during installation. Timing was off by four teeth when they checked it, but hand on a bible, that must have happened after crank. I was so careful setting it up initially. All in all, well worth the $250.
No oil leaks, just a little coolant spill that needs to burn off. Everything done by the shop seems to be correct.
Total cost:
$2,000 for the rebuild parts/labor.
$250 to have the shop finish it off and get it running.
$720 in miscellaneous parts and tools.
All in all, not bad for a full rebuild. I sold my engine stand for $20 more than I paid for it, and took a $0.14 hit on reselling my hoist, so that helped finances.
So happy. Now to take care of the few remaining gremlins.
It runs!
Temp/timing advance/fuel trim etc all seem within spec.
Power is at least as good as when I drove it last.
No signs of impending doom.
The not so good:
Sounds like friggin' grasshoppers under my hood. Passenger side idler pulley is my main suspect. New one should arrive next week (wife is going to install it since I'll be gone).
P0155 code, O2 sensor. Probably got damaged while I was working on it. Going to test it tomorrow once the exhaust has cooled down.
I'm so happy.
It looks like there was a combination of issues that kept it from starting. The cam sensor kept throwing a code, so that got replaced. The spark plugs were also fouled with fuel from cranking so many times. Also, some anti-seize seeped in on a couple, so I got a little over-zealous with that during installation. Timing was off by four teeth when they checked it, but hand on a bible, that must have happened after crank. I was so careful setting it up initially. All in all, well worth the $250.
No oil leaks, just a little coolant spill that needs to burn off. Everything done by the shop seems to be correct.
Total cost:
$2,000 for the rebuild parts/labor.
$250 to have the shop finish it off and get it running.
$720 in miscellaneous parts and tools.
All in all, not bad for a full rebuild. I sold my engine stand for $20 more than I paid for it, and took a $0.14 hit on reselling my hoist, so that helped finances.
So happy. Now to take care of the few remaining gremlins.
Offroadmuch
Explorer
Good for you! Always cool to hear that another Montero is kept alive. Sounds like you will have a very solid motor for years.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Yep. Thereabouts.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
That was my goal. Only time will tell. With my luck, I'm going to get T-boned by a semi truck later today and all of this will be for naught.
Yes it has. I don't recommend anyone else have the fun I've had during this. Was not my favorite thing I've ever done.
I'm now stuck with this 02 sensor. P0155 is Bank 2, sensor 1, which I believe is the driver's side first sensor (pre-cat). The sensor runs up and connects to the harness on the driver's side. I pulled the plug and tried testing using the FSM procedures, but I got no continuity anywhere in any combination of the four pins. I tested another sensor and got the same results. The FSM specifies that the tech should use special tool MB991316, which looks like a wire pass-through that adds two additional wires for testing. Of course, I don't have that mini harness.
Other testing procedures I've seen online involve getting the engine warmed up and testing for voltage at the harness. I'm just not sure which pins should be tested or what voltage they should show. Considering just replacing the sensor, though I would prefer to find and fix a wire issue before shelling out $55 (Bosch) or $180 (OEM) for a new sensor. I'm going to try some generic tests before ordering a new one.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Awesome idea, thanks. I noticed in ASA that the sensors all have different part numbers. It looks like I need 14925 from the diagram, but if you look at the ASA screenshot below, they are all different. It appears that the wire is permanently attached to the sensor.
EDIT: It looks like the plugs are all the same from online pictures. Maybe only the wire length differs?
One easy test you can perform is to remove the suspect sensor, starting with it cold, and start the engine with the sensor out. It should get hot, sometimes it's hard to feel with your hand as the heater element is way inside there, but if you have an IR gun style thermometer, you'll see it heat up. You may also be able to smell it. I used this diagnosis for a P0155 on another vehicle to confirm before I replaced. I had the new sensor with me, so after I confirmed no heat on the suspect sensor, I hooked up the brand new one to verify that it got hot before I installed it. It's just a simple heater circuit, so checking for heat is a very easy way to play with it. Again you may not feel the heat with your hand, but you can smell it and see it with an IR gun. If you wanted to rule out a harness issue upstream from the plug, you could buy the new one before removing the suspect one, plug it in under the hood, and see if it heats up. If it heats up, odds are good you've got a bad sensor or wiring issue. If it doesn't heat up, you are chasing a harness / other problem.
The one thing I don't know is how long the ECU commands the heater circuit to stay on with a cold start, but when I did this test, I spent a few minutes testing and it worked great. The role of this circuit is to pre-heat the sensor element, as they only do their job when hot. If the ECU detects any issues with the pre-heat operation, you get PO155. Otherwise they can't report data until sufficiently warmed by the exhaust gas, which means more time spent in open loop which = more emissions.
The one thing I don't know is how long the ECU commands the heater circuit to stay on with a cold start, but when I did this test, I spent a few minutes testing and it worked great. The role of this circuit is to pre-heat the sensor element, as they only do their job when hot. If the ECU detects any issues with the pre-heat operation, you get PO155. Otherwise they can't report data until sufficiently warmed by the exhaust gas, which means more time spent in open loop which = more emissions.
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nwoods
Expedition Leader
That's pretty much it. I replaced my O2 sensors a while back and my searching found a ton of part numbers, but they all seemed to be the same part.