F-350 Configuration for Truck Camper Build (NorthStar 850SC)

[Ninelitetrip]

Not to an XLT, and, I don't think on a Super Cab.

I hate when you are forced to a higher trim level just for one option.

Is it possible to add the OEM LED's after delivery?

 

[eyemgh]

I hate when you are forced to a higher trim level just for one option.

Is it possible to add the OEM LED's after delivery?

You could, but it's a major ordeal. It would be easier and cheaper to do bulbs or Morimotos. The stockers aren't terrible. The temp is low, so they look yellow, but I get flashed regularly. They must be reasonably bright.

 

[Explorerinil]

I hate when you are forced to a higher trim level just for one option.

Is it possible to add the OEM LED's after delivery?

I hate how ford outfits a 80k truck with halogens and makes you get different packages for the led light. Ram offers led lights as a basic safety package you can click on that box alone when ordering.

Yes you can add ford factory led lights easily later. You’ll need the ford factory led lights (3700-4k), a wiring harness (boosted grey goose designs) and about 5 minutes of programming via forscan.

 

[jbaucom]

You could, but it's a major ordeal. It would be easier and cheaper to do bulbs or Morimotos. The stockers aren't terrible. The temp is low, so they look yellow, but I get flashed regularly. They must be reasonably bright.

It's not a Super Duty, and I'm not sure which bulbs the Super Duty halogens use, but I trimmed the base of a 9011 to fit my F150 high beams and replaced the low beam bulbs with a Phillips +60 bulb. I've got no complaints with the headlights after upgrading to improved halogen bulbs and checking the aim. As a bonus, the upgraded halogen bulbs have a little cooler color temperature than the long life OE bulbs, and the beam patterns and cutoffs match OE designs.

 

[yfarm]

Consider the 360 camera or at a minimum the blind spot option.

 

[Klutch7]

I think that must be for the stripped single cab.

I ordered essentially the exact config as above, except XLT Premium, carpet delete, block heater, no well liners, trailer package, but no 360 cam, and a 6.75 bed. The payload sticker says 4243.

It'll carry a Hallmark on a Bowen Custom bed replacement. Interestingly, Matt and Brent were able to get everything designed so that I can have the shorter 148" wheelbase, but carry a 8' camper without the crazy overhang.

I wouldn't get the snow plow package unless you plan to carry a snow plow. I replaced all mine with Carli anyway, but the snow plow springs without the weight will ride harsh.

PM me if you have any questions about our build.

Do you have any renderings of this setup? This is the same situation I'm grappling with - I want the 8' bed's capacity but the shorter wheelbase cant be beat!

 

[eyemgh]

Do you have any renderings of this setup? This is the same situation I'm grappling with - I want the 8' bed's capacity but the shorter wheelbase cant be beat!

You can find a link below.

Bowen NotSoFlat Bed Revisited

I had a thread up about this, but it was before Brent actually announced he'd be doing a full size option. I pulled it in order not to get the cart ahead of the horse. Well it's official now. You can see it below. It will allow a slide in at standard bed height, but with external boxes. It's not...

expeditionportal.com

 

[Klutch7]

Couple thoughts...

Pass on dual alternators (not needed) added complexity. Same with dual batteries (save engine bay room and weight).


Sweet truck build.

Peter, can you elaborate on this? I have always thought of these two options as decent ones from the factory, but if I recall from one of your videos, you had some more thoughts. Is it not worth having it from the factory for supporting powered accessories like lights, winch, compressors?

 

[discohead]

Peter, can you elaborate on this? I have always thought of these two options as decent ones from the factory, but if I recall from one of your videos, you had some more thoughts. Is it not worth having it from the factory for supporting powered accessories like lights, winch, compressors?

seconding this question. When you add the factory winch it forces dual alts / batteries. I definitely intend to add an aftermarket winch and lights. Also figured it could help charge camper batteries.

 

[yfarm]

I have both options and have had zero issues since new 15 months ago. I have read there are some charging complexities
with how the ford system allocates alternator output.

 

[montypower]

Peter, can you elaborate on this? I have always thought of these two options as decent ones from the factory, but if I recall from one of your videos, you had some more thoughts. Is it not worth having it from the factory for supporting powered accessories like lights, winch, compressors?

Is it necessary? With the 240amp alternator... Nope. At least not for most. We have a 50amp DC to DC charger for the camper. The alternator has no issues charging at idle. We run our winch more than most and the alternator keeps up fine. All the aftermarket lights are LED today (low power draw). I could see if you were running a snow plow and continuously demanding high amperage draws that would pull down the battery or stress the system. Maybe it would be needed for your application... But adding a complicated system and weight isn't ideal.

The factory battery isn't great. Ours fried itself. Most likely the internal plates shook loose and shorted out. Ford replaced it free. Will see how long this one will last. Having 2 of these batteries doesn't seem ideal! I'd rather buy one high quality battery (which we will do when the warranty expires).

The factory alternator load balancing is really strange. I've heard of issues with overheating the main alternator with the 2nd one not picking up the slack. It's computer controlled but the controller isn't exactly dividing the load equally between both (as you'd expect).

Want redundancy?? Well... that doesn't make sense. Unless you replace the battery/alternator at different intervals... the components would likely fail together (same age, wear).

I don't see the value in 2 batteries and 2 alternators unless you really need them. It adds weight, cost, complexity and takes valuable under hood real estate. But if you need the power.... then do it!

Our added power loads:
80amp - Two ARB Air Compressors (run together)
50amp - DC to DC charger (not always on - charges camper batteries)
600amp - Winch (power draw changes with load - typical winch pull is less than 5 minutes)
10-20amp - LED lights (lots of them)

Keep in mind most power loads are not constant and often not combined. But just to give you and idea what is possible with the factory battery and 240amp alternator. Factory battery lasted 1.5yrs.

 

[Klutch7]

Is it necessary? With the 240amp alternator... Nope. At least not for most. We have a 50amp DC to DC charger for the camper. The alternator has no issues charging at idle. We run our winch more than most and the alternator keeps up fine. All the aftermarket lights are LED today (low power draw). I could see if you were running a snow plow and continuously demanding high amperage draws that would pull down the battery or stress the system. Maybe it would be needed for your application... But adding a complicated system and weight isn't ideal.

The factory battery isn't great. Ours fried itself. Most likely the internal plates shook loose and shorted out. Ford replaced it free. Will see how long this one will last. Having 2 of these batteries doesn't seem ideal! I'd rather buy one high quality battery (which we will do when the warranty expires).

The factory alternator load balancing is really strange. I've heard of issues with overheating the main alternator with the 2nd one not picking up the slack. It's computer controlled but the controller isn't exactly dividing the load equally between both (as you'd expect).

Want redundancy?? Well... that doesn't make sense. Unless you replace the battery/alternator at different intervals... the components would likely fail together (same age, wear).

I don't see the value in 2 batteries and 2 alternators unless you really need them. It adds weight, cost, complexity and takes valuable under hood real estate. But if you need the power.... then do it!

Our added power loads:
80amp - Two ARB Air Compressors (run together)
50amp - DC to DC charger (not always on - charges camper batteries)
600amp - Winch (power draw changes with load - typical winch pull is less than 5 minutes)
10-20amp - LED lights (lots of them)

Keep in mind most power loads are not constant and often not combined. But just to give you and idea what is possible with the factory battery and 240amp alternator. Factory battery lasted 1.5yrs.

Thank you. All fair points.

 

[discohead]

Figured I'd circle back around and close the loop on this thread, truck and camper are both finally here (I went with the dual battery and alternator)...

2022 Ford F-350 Lariat 7.3L V8 4x4 SuperCab w/ 8' Bed & 4.30 Gears (4598 lbs payload)
2022 Northstar 850SC

Optional Equipment List from my window sticker:

• PREFERRED EQUIPMENT PKG.618A
• 7.3L DEVCT NA PFI V8 ENGINE
• 10-SPEED AUTOMATIC
• LT275/70R18E BSW ALL TERRAIN
• 4.30 ELECTRONIC-LOCKING AXLE
• FRONT LICENSE PLATE BRACKET
• ALL WEATHER MATS W/O CARPT MAT
• FLOOR MAT IN LIEU OF CARPET
• LARIAT SPORT APPEARANCE PKG
• .PLATFORM RUNNING BOARDS
• FX4 OFF-ROAD PACKAGE
• .SKID PLATES
• 11800# GVWR PACKAGE
• 50 STATE EMISSIONS
• SNOWPLOW PREP/CAMPER PACKAGE
• UTT CAMERA PRO TRLR BACKUP AST
• ROOF CLEARANCE LIGHTS
• ADAPTIVE STEERING
• RAIN-SENSING WINDSHIELD WIPERS JACK
• WHEEL WELL LINERS FRONT & REAR
• CSTMR TRL CAM *CSTMR INST ACCY
• UPFITTER SWITCHES
• 397 AMP ALTERNATOR
• DUAL BATTERY
• HOOD DEFLECTOR
• LARIAT VALUE PACKAGE
• .LED BOX LIGHTING
• .REMOTE START SYSTEM
• .DRIVER SIDE MEMORY SEAT
• .HEATED/VENTED FRONT SEATS

 

[Regcabguy]

Hi All, I'm preparing to place an order for an F-350 that will haul a NorthStar 850SC pop-up truck camper. I've done a lot of homework, think I've got it sorted, but this is my first time buying a full size truck or truck camper, so I'm just looking for any feedback/suggestions from more experienced folks before I pull the trigger. Ford's max payload chart puts this configuration at 4970lbs, with the added options, I'm hoping it comes in around 4500lbs (+/- 100 lbs). The camper has a base dry weight of 1785lbs, so I'm guessing it'll weigh about 3000lbs once it's wet, optioned and fully loaded. The goal here is to preserve as much of the truck's off-road capability as possible. Aftermarket wheels, tires and suspension will likely happen at some point down the road, but not right away. Primary use case will be off-road, off-grid trips... shorter at first, but with a goal of eventually going full-time, (which would likely entail going to a custom flatbed). Without further adieu, below is the platform I'm thinking of starting with... thoughts? ideas? anything you'd do differently? Full build PDF attached. Any guidance will be appreciated!

• F-350 XLT
• SuperCab
• 8' Box
• SRW
• 4x4
• 7.3L Gas
• 4.30 Axle
• LT275/70Rx18E BSW A/T, 4x4 Tires
• FX4 Off-Road Package
• Snow Plow / Camper Package
• Ultimate Trailer Tow Camera System with Pro Trailer Backup Assist
• XLT Value Package
• Dual Battery
• Dual HD Alternators
• Wheel Well Liner - Front/Rear
• Individual Trailer TPMS/Customer-Placed Trailer Camera
• Upfitter Switches

Looks good to me. The camper will fit perfectly. I know a guy with a Ram 3500 dually and flatbed mounted hardsided camper that just got totaled out. The camper's being rebuilt and he just took delivery of a 2022 3500 dually 4wd. He's looking forward to the 8" lower center of gravity. That camper has plenty of storage for a single person or a couple. The suspension should be fine. Keep the body stock height for handling. All the offroad suspension kits are geared to softer springs. The Torklift front setup will work but I'd get a stronger bumper in the rear and use the ends for the hookup point for turnbuckles. The Torklift hitch mount rears hang to far down for my comfort. The departure angle is seriously impacted. Ford's monster air dam won't last long either.

 

[eyemgh]

The suspension should be fine. Keep the body stock height for handling. All the offroad suspension kits are geared to softer springs.

A good suspension replacement will be better off road AND on road. @BretEdge and @montypower can both attest to that fact. They both have highly modified rigs, as do I. I’d never stick with the stock Ford suspension.