Favorite Recovery Strap

[shawkins]

I am wondering what your guys favorite recovery strap is?

At the moment I have a 2" Procomp Strap but am planing on gettinga 3". I was leaning twards the ARB one just because its blue (my favorite color )LOL But if their is a better one, I will definately get it instead.

Thanks!

 

[flyingwil]

I have a generic 3" strap the streches during recovery. I want to say it is made by Keeper, but I dont remember for certian.

The only advice I can give regarding tow straps is not to get the ones with the built in hooks.:ar15: Other than that as long as it yanks, it works..

Wil

 

[paulj]

I not sure this fits with the threads topic, but:

One thing that I am interested in, is the distinction between dynamic recovery straps, and low stretch straps that might, in theory, be used with a hand winch or jack used as a winch.

http://www.extremeoutback.com/index.cgi?cart_id=3212280.2816&pid=88
for example is a 'winch extension strap' which may have low enough stretch to work with a hand winch. Another is the 2" ratchet strap with hook ends
http://offroadrecovery.com/product/58727

The use that I have in mind is where a light duty expedition vehicle (such as an Element) is pushed a bit too far, and looses traction on a front wheel and a rear one. A modest pull from another vehicle, or with a hand winch might get it going. Basically I am thinking of a 2 ton pull limit.

A dynamic jerk would work in a more serious situation, but would also put more stress on the factory 'tow' hooks/loops.

paulj

 

[flyingwil]

I not sure this fits with the threads topic, but:

One thing that I am interested in, is the distinction between dynamic recovery straps, and low stretch straps that might, in theory, be used with a hand winch or jack used as a winch.

http://www.extremeoutback.com/index.cgi?cart_id=3212280.2816&pid=88
for example is a 'winch extension strap' which may have low enough stretch to work with a hand winch. Another is the 2" ratchet strap with hook ends
http://offroadrecovery.com/product/58727

The use that I have in mind is where a light duty expedition vehicle (such as an Element) is pushed a bit too far, and looses traction on a front wheel and a rear one. A modest pull from another vehicle, or with a hand winch might get it going. Basically I am thinking of a 2 ton pull limit.

A dynamic jerk would work in a more serious situation, but would also put more stress on the factory 'tow' hooks/loops.

paulj

If you are worried about the jerking motion stress I would go for the rachet straps, and mount only to a stationary object, thus mitagating the stress on the tow hooks.

The way I see it once the other vehicle starts moving it could potentially create too much stress on the hooks, and the racheting strap would allow to tighten firmly prior to starting to pull the vehicle.

 

[barrypt5]

So i have read a bunch of threads about tow straps and everyone has said to get the ones without hooks...so can anyone tell me WHY? ya i know stupid question...but if you, for example, are wheelin with two 80 series cruisers that the tow hooks are a closed loop how do you connect them ya you can use a larks head on one side but how on the other??? D-Shackle? Please enlighten

thanks

barrypt5

 

[Brian McVickers]

You got it, you connect the closed loop of the strap to the closed loop tow point with a D-shackle.

The reason for not using the straps with built in hooks is for safety. If the strap snaps the hooks become projectiles!:ar15: :ar15: But if the strap snaps when using D-shackles the shackles stay where they are.

 

[DaktariEd]

There is a good article in Australian 4WD Monthly, #87, Dec '05, that deals with proper use, safety, etc. when using snatch straps. Also talks about a "new" and safer technique that has a lot of merit...

Ed

 

[Beowulf]

These two are my favorite.

The rope is the same that I have seen from others such as Master Pull. But the yellow strap is from Expedition Exchange and is the best I have ever used.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Some how I have managed to end up with 5-6 straps and the one I use the most is the first one I bought. a 2inch x 30ft Keeper. for a truck weight between 2500-4500 a 2 inch is a good match. The strap is suppose to stretch and act like a rubber band. A 3 inch strap is best suited to a heavy full size.

The others I currently have is a 20ft absorb edge. A 30ft Procomp, a cheap low dollar Keeper, one that I just don't recall the brand and a strap I won as a door prise that came from Omix Ida (two of my friends work there) that I think is in their Rugged trail line.

The big key to making a strap last is keep it clean. If you get it in the dirt the dirt will act like razors and slowly cut the strap apart fiber by fiber. The other big saver is keep it out of the sun. UV damage takes a toll much faster then you would think.

 

[bigreen505]

Check out this article from 4WD Monthly.

 

[cshontz]

 

[SeaRubi]

looking around at older threads today

Paul, check out the wyeth-scott. This would be enough grunt to get out of the occasional light stuck.

http://www.wyeth-scott.com/

barring that, a hi-lift and 50ft of 3/8's link chain is your best bet. Do not waste time trying to use straps or synthetic line. I've tried with 5/16's plasma rope and by the time you get tension on it, there's maybe 2 or 3 clicks left on the hi-lift before it's used up and ready for a reset and another pull.

fwiw

I not sure this fits with the threads topic, but:

One thing that I am interested in, is the distinction between dynamic recovery straps, and low stretch straps that might, in theory, be used with a hand winch or jack used as a winch.

http://www.extremeoutback.com/index.cgi?cart_id=3212280.2816&pid=88
for example is a 'winch extension strap' which may have low enough stretch to work with a hand winch. Another is the 2" ratchet strap with hook ends
http://offroadrecovery.com/product/58727

The use that I have in mind is where a light duty expedition vehicle (such as an Element) is pushed a bit too far, and looses traction on a front wheel and a rear one. A modest pull from another vehicle, or with a hand winch might get it going. Basically I am thinking of a 2 ton pull limit.

A dynamic jerk would work in a more serious situation, but would also put more stress on the factory 'tow' hooks/loops.

paulj

 

[david despain]

So i have read a bunch of threads about tow straps and everyone has said to get the ones without hooks...so can anyone tell me WHY? ya i know stupid question...but if you, for example, are wheelin with two 80 series cruisers that the tow hooks are a closed loop how do you connect them ya you can use a larks head on one side but how on the other??? D-Shackle? Please enlighten

thanks

barrypt5

a larks head is a knot, yes? you should never ever never tie a knot in a strap like that it makes a big stress point for failure. the reason for not using the walmart special w/ hooks is that if the vehicle tow point fails, then the very solid hook on the strap will come flying at you and damage somthing, quite posible something alive. this might create some damage and posibly leaks.

 

[Grim Reaper]

So i have read a bunch of threads about tow straps and everyone has said to get the ones without hooks...so can anyone tell me WHY? ya i know stupid question...but if you, for example, are wheelin with two 80 series cruisers that the tow hooks are a closed loop how do you connect them ya you can use a larks head on one side but how on the other??? D-Shackle? Please enlighten

thanks

barrypt5

http://www.southernhighrollers.com/tips/articles/a_near_miss_from.htm

 

[ntsqd]

There is at least one knot used on flat webbing that is OK. It's called a "Water Knot" and there is a second name for it that at the moment escapes me. From my experiments in mending broken poly winch line it would seem that sharp bends create literal hot spots in the line or webbing. The failures I saw in the poly line looked more like they got too hot than they were over loaded, even though we deliberately overloaded it.
I guess the moral is to use a knot that has the largest bends reasonbly possible. I have seen certain knots tied around a large diameter stick, presumably just for this reason.

That being said, a knotted strap is b/c it broke & you're still stuck. Not something you started off with.

There was a question about the difference btwn "snatch straps" and winch extension straps. I didn't see an answer so bear with if I missed it. The extension straps want to be unstretchable or you'll loose a lot of pull length just stretching the extension.
A snatch strap does want to be stretchable as this acts as a force magnifier.