Finally - a mod thread of my own!

[bootzilla]

Here we go!

Yokohama Geolander A/T Plus II, in an only slightly beefier 265/70 16

Chillin' out beside North Carolina Highway 12...not exactly the smoothest road in the state, but certainly the most fun!

The Superflow/MasterFlow MV-50 air pump that I got at Pep Boys for $50 was impressive - I inflated all four Geolanders from 20lbs to 35 lbs in no time at all - I didn't time it, but it couldn't have been more than 15 minutes total. My cheapie $10 Target pump would have still been working on the first tire.

It does tend to run a little hot, so you have to give it cool-down time, and you have to attach the power leads directly to the battery, but it is worth it in time savings, and comes with a compressor-style output and quick-connect hose.

Rear Shocks are definitely way too weak in the knees - I found a website (can't remember the name, have it bookmarked at work) that is doing buy 3 get one free on ProComp shocks, so I think a set to ES9000's is next, then I am due for new brake pads, so a set of Indy4x Stainless Steel Brake Lines may be in order to firm up the feel and get a smidge more braking power for the bigger tires. :box:

And the storage issue will get contemplated some, too...likely after a few cold ones...:beer:

 

[flyingwil]

Looks good Todd! Love the beach pictures. What are you thinking for storage?

 

[bootzilla]

I was originally thinking a few drawers off to one side, to allow room for the dog, but now BigGreen's storage discussion has got me thinking of a platform with slim drawers underneath - that way I can bolt in an anchor for a doggie seatbelt, and I could probably mount my air compressor back there, too.

I have to get in the back and do some measuring to figure out dimensions. I'd love to take out the rear seats, but I am not sure how that would go over with my other half...it is not like we use them alot...

 

[bootzilla]

Greased the slip-yoke fitting on the axle yesterday - no more "clunk" - woohoo!:luxhello:

Tip for the Trooper guys wanting to do the same - if you can find a grease gun with a flexible nozzle - get it. Either that, or a small right-angle gun. I had a heck of a time with a full-size gun with a 45-degree nozzle - I ended up having to put the car up on ramps, and then bent the nozzle a little further with a hammer to get it to fit up in there. The front U-joint is a little easier, and the rear u-joint is a breeze.

Still waiting for my ES9000's. With the new bigger tires, I feel a vibe now and then up front - I want to get those shocks on so I can figure out if it is just a worn out shock, or if the tire wasn't balanced right...

 

[bigreen505]

Exactly what clunk are you referring to?

 

[bootzilla]

It would happen right after I let off the brake at a stoplight, as my foot was going for the gas - just soft little 'thunk' from right under the car - you could feel it more than hear it.

Didn't happen too much for me, but for some people it happens alot. Apparently it is common for the slip yoke to wear out grease over time - fortunately Troopers have a zerk fitting on them - I have heard of Rodeos either having a cap instead of a zerk (you just have to unscrew it and put one on) or none at all (which really sucks, because you have to remove the driveshaft to lube it, or live with the clunk)

After I lubed it, I read on Planetisuzoo that the thicker the grease the better - I bought synthetic Mobil 1, because..well, it was synthetic. No biggie, though - if it comes back because of the synthetic, then I'll just hit it with the grease gun again - a tube of that stuff will last forever with only the yoke and two u joints to grease...

 

[bootzilla]

Shocks are here! Rears are in, and I need to get a 16mm 1/2 drive socket to do the fronts.

First impressions - man, those rear shocks were shot! When you compress them by hand, there was no rebound at all - they stayed right where you left them...I am sure the fronts are just as bad.

For anyone contemplating the ProComp ES shocks...

-For the rears - the collar that goes inside the bushing at the top is the correct diameter, but is about 1/4 inch too long. It needs to be ground down...fortunately I had my angle grinder handy.

-The lower link gets in the way of the bottom shock bolt in the rear if you use a breaker bar with a big head. Don't make my mistake of thinking "I'll just pop one side of the link off to get to the bolt!" Once the new shock is on, it will push the axle back, and they link will never line up with the axle. Solution was to remove shock, reconnect lower link, reattach shock...

-Bottom and top bolts on the rear shocks are 19mm. Bottom bolts on the front are 16mm. You'll also need box end wrenches, or an adjustible to hols the top bolt while you remove the nut.

The rear shocks are 1000% improved over the worn out rears. I'll get a better feel for the ES9000's after I get the fronts on too...I can't wait! :smiley_drive: I'll snap a few pics, too.

Next question - what should I do next??? Next one can't be too expensive - I was thinking of one of the following:

- OME springs w/bar crank (not sure I want to re-aling it quite yet, though)
- Front sway bar disconnects
- S.S. Brake lines (since I need to do the pads soon, I figure I can flush and refill while I am at it).

Opinions? I am still conemplating how I want to do storage in the back, so that one remains in the planning department.

 

[ZooJunkie]

I can't get my rear 19mm off!!

 

[bootzilla]

I hit them with PB Blaster a couple of times, and then backed the car up on ramps so I had a little more room to work.

For the uppers, I used a pretty big breaker bar to get some leverage, while holding the other side in place witha big adjustable.

For the bottom, I got one side off with a REALLY big adjustable (I don't like to use them to remove bolts, but I was in a bind). The other side, I took off the lower link and got on it with the breaker bar.

If you get a breaker bar with a really slim head (kinda like that one, just without the 1/2-3/8 adapter on it) you should be able to get in on that lower bolt.

A little PB Blaster to break up the crud, and a lot of leverage with the breaker bar...

 

[bigreen505]

I vote for rear springs as they will make the biggest difference both on- and off-road. Talk to Matt at Independent 4x about the difference between the 912 and 919 springs. From what I understand the 919's are stiffer. I have the 919s and I can't understand why a softer spring could be better, especially under the loads we tend to throw in the rear.

Selfishly, I want someone to buy the front sway bar disconnects to let me know if they actually work or if they are just a pain. I am currently running with the front bar removed, but have yet to take if off road. I discoverd that my right front shock is toast so I will wait to report on how the truck handles with the sway bar removed. So far I would suggest it rolls about like stock Trooper with stock size tires -- not great, but not unsafe, but steering response is better and the handling is much more neutral. What seems to have gone to hell is straight line stability, but that could be a shock problem.

 

[BajaTaco]

Great news on the shocks. Congrats!

I'd be tempted to get the springs too.

Very cool to see there are quite a few Trooper owners here now. Lots of info exchange goin' on

 

[jim65wagon]

Chillin' out beside North Carolina Highway 12...not exactly the smoothest road in the state, but certainly the most fun!

Man! That is one of my all-time favorite places to chill! Can't wait till next spring!

 

[bootzilla]

No need to wait until spring! The Outer Banks are awesome in the winter - no traffic, and you pretty much have the whole place to yourself!

Front shocks are on - big difference, the front's were as bad as the rears were - no rebound at all when you compressed them.

The fronts were more labor intensive than the rears to get fitted up - not only did I need to grind down the metal sleeve in the lower shock mount to get it to fit - but the bushing itself was too wide - so I had to cut that down with a razor blade, then I smoothed it out with the grinder (what a smell that creates!). I'll do a full write up tomorrow on my webpage - in case anyone wants to do ProComps, they'll know what they are in for...

Road feel is much better - I've heard people say that the ProComps are too stiff - but I don't think that is the case at all - in fact, the fronts could actually be a little bit stiffer - rears are just right.

Overall - highly recommended, but you'll need a grinder and some patience to get them to fit!

I snapped a few pics of the finished product:
Rear:

Front (hadn't torqued down the top nut yet) If you look at the width of the bushing on the bottom mount of the pic above, then compare to the bottom mount bushing on the front below, you can see how much I needed to trim:

More pics on my wepage in sig.

Question about the OME springs - are they all pretty much the same amount of lift? I'd like the improvement in spring rate, but I don't want too much lift - I already had to take my roof rails off because of a parking garage I use when I go up to Philly...

And I never knew this - but Ironman makes springs for Troopers, too - anybody know where to get these?

 

[jrsteffes]

And I never knew this - but Ironman makes springs for Troopers, too - anybody know where to get these?

I am also interested in finding out about them!:exclaim:

 

[jrsteffes]

Found a link to them : http://www.ironmansuspension.com/