Finally chose a rig, now looking starts, 4Runner 3rd gen.

A little while back I started a thread about what the best toyota for expedition would be, well after carefully thinking and evaluating my choice I chose a 3rd gen 4runner. based parts available, reliable, mpg, going price. With all these I thought this the best option. I am hoping to be able to pay cash $5k - $6 and then once a tune up is preformed I'll be selling my current daily driver a 2009 mini cooper clubman, to dump the payment and free up some spending money to build this rig.

So with these things said, if you have any input on the 3rd gen 4runner and want to share, it would be appreciated. I've read a few things about the different models and will be looking for one with the e-locker. But I'm really wondering how many miles is to many. Most of the ones I've seen on autotrader within 300 miles of me are in the high 100k to low 2000k and those are the ones in my price range of $5k-$6k. If I end up getting one with this high of milage I'll be putting $50 a pay check into and account to save for a rebuild, and in the mean time I'll drive it while I build up the rig, then once completed or the engine goes, which ever happens first, I'll rebuild the motor.

So hows my plan? Thanks in advance for your input. And I'm looking forward to starting my first ever build thread soon.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
200k is not excessive on the 3.4 motor. At that mileage, though, I'd start to worry about other components, mainly the transmission. From what I've seen most 3rd gens with the E-locker are autos. The A340 is a pretty good transmission but you have to make sure the cooler is in decent shape and that you don't get cross-contamination between the radiator and the tranny cooler (which is in the radiator.) IMO the safest, smartest thing to do is spend $60 on a B&M aftermarket cooler and have it plumbed so that it completely bypasses the factory cooler. This eliminates any chance of getting engine coolant in the tranny (which will kill it dead - the dreaded "pink milkshake of death.")

Also at that age/mileage, you have to start to consider whether some of the "peripherals" will start to wear out: Window motors, ECU's, AC compressors, etc. The good news is that none of these things are terribly expensive to replace (except maybe the main ECU, although I think you can buy these used at a decent price.) You also need to consider suspension and drive components like ball joints, the various bushings and other rubber parts on the suspension, CV boots, etc, which are probably starting to get old and cracked by this time. If shocks haven't been replaced they are likely getting too worn (good excuse to go to an aftermarket suspension, though) and so on.


So really the key is to get one that's in decent shape.

IMO the thing to do is to avoid anything that's got a lift, big tires, an ARB bumper or anything that's obviously been "wheeled." The reason I say that is that you don't know whether the person who did the mods knew what he was doing. Much better to find a "soccer mom" car with running boards and factory - sized tires, even if it hasn't been in 4wd since the last snow storm.
 
thanks guys for the info

I've read about the milkshake deal, and a new raditor and trans cooler, then start with plugs, wires, etc. suspension will be OME nothing major and probably 33s I figure this is a good medium with offroad and minimizing the mpg and wear and tear on steering components.
 

blue dog

Adventurer
I have a 2000 with 5 speed, has 262,000 on the clock, still runs like a top. You must do the timing belt and water pump every 100 k, very important, other then that basic maintenance and regular oil change and the 3.4 will out last a lot of engines. Try to find a sr5 5 speed, and you will be good to go.
 

cshsrh

New member
Tagged. In the same boat as you OP so please make sure and update as you purchase and find/fix problems.
 

phsycle

Adventurer
If I were to get a 3rd gen now, I'd opt for 99-00 models. If 5-sp, get the highlander (later called Sport) with the hood scoop and *usually* (not always) has the e-locker. If auto, get the Limited that came with a very unique set up with a center diff AND a rear locker. Some say these model years got the higher springs, but with them being 14 years old now, they'd need replacing anyway, so that's not a factor.
 

rickashay

Explorer
Good advice on the transmission cooler - avoid the "pink milkshake". The 3.4L is very reliable and when well maintained should last a LONG time. Another weak point on these trucks is the steering rack. Check to see if it leaks bad or has a lot of play in the steering. I like my 98 SR5 and how it uses a traditional manual lever to engage 4x4. None of the electrical push button switches like I believe the Limited's use. Although the AWD transfer case on the newer (2000+ I believe??) would be nice for snowy highway drives, whereas mine only has true 4x4 and 4LO. I would also make sure I replaced the lower balljoints with OEM replacements if it hasnt already been done at the mileage your looking at. They can be a catastrophic failure and it seems more frequently on lifted 4Runner's. Oh, and check to make sure the rear power window rolls down ALL the way.

I look forward to seeing a build once you find one that fits the bill!

GL
 

Loubaru

Adventurer
Well, add another person to your boat. I have my next vehicle choice down to a G3 4runner or Montero. Leaning towards the 4runner due to slightly better mpg/reliability and way better aftermarket support.

From the little research I've done I plan on looking for a 99-'00. Preferably limited w/ an elocker.
 

summerprophet

Adventurer
The Holy Grail of 4runners is the 99 model with stick shift and an E-Locker. These are really rare as they were all custom optioned vehicles, rather than the standard packages (SR5/Limited).

I looked long and hard, and determined I wanted a '99 limited for a number of reasons. Prior to 1999, the cupholders suck. I had a 2nd gen and suffered with coffee spills on the dash, so I knew I didn't want that anymore. Also, starting in '99 the rear seats have a spot to hold the headrests when folded up, which creates a nice little wall between the front and the back (I often have two big dogs back there). Also more outlets is always a good thing in the overlanding world. 99 onward has 3 in the dash, 1 in the rear.

After 2000, the E-locker was discontinued, opting for a central locker instead.

The Sport models have a non functioning hood scoop. Neat to look at, but not worth the cheap uncomfortable seats that came in the sport model. I have heard of many folks seeking out sport hoods, and many sport owners seeking limited (or SR5) seats.

Steering racks are weak in all the 3rd gens, particularly with upsizing the tires, and are not cheap to replace. Lots of info out there on this, but the consensus is that this seems to be one or the parts that aftermarket and refurbished racks just don't cut it. Plan on the $800 replacement every 120k or so. Front brakes are not great, but not terrible. Most folks upgrade to tundra brakes (bolt right on) if they are on 35's and some upgrade with 33's. Depends on what you are doing with it I suppose.

Headroom in the 3rd gens is a bit shy... I am 6'1" and right at the max of comfort.

Now, with all that being said, Here was my wishlist when I went shopping:
99 Limited with under 200k
AWD 4WD 4Lo transmission (J style shifter) pushbutton AWD, and you still have 4Lo
E-Locker (actually what I ended up buying had front and rear ARB Lockers)
Sunroof (wife request)
Leather (wife request)

3rd gens handle like sports cars, turn on a dime, and have heaps more power than their older brothers, and far better fuel economy than their pricier cousins (10mpg landcruisers). All in all I am pretty happy with the purchase, Its the perfect combination for the narrow trails around here while being big enough to be comfortable in.

Best of luck in your new purchase. Be patient, and the perfect rig will come along.
 

Stick Figure

Observer
I quite like my sport seats, although after 204k I will admin I just ordered new foam for the seat back on the drivers side before an upcoming trip.

As for the steering rack, I replaced the bushings with energy suspension units around 120-140k. at my 180k suspension freshening, I replaced the internal guide bushing (about a 10 min job) and both inner and outer tie rods, but the rack itself has been 100% solid. I'm not a super hard core wheeler, but do have 1" taller than stock 10 ply (80 lbs per corner) tires, and the truck is by no means a "mall crawler". Maybe I've just been lucky.
 

KAILUAZ

Down wit da Hui
Good choice, be patient and wait for something good to pop up. I lucked out with a one owner 99 auto (no locker) with 78k on it. The timing belt and water pump had already been replaced and it was always serviced. It has a mint interior and is a great starting point.

The 99 has the "tall springs" which gives my 265/75's room without jacking the whole truck up. With my roof rack its nice to still be able to fit in parking garages etc. After deciding to build a "expo" style instead of a typical jacked up 4x4, the tall springs saved me from having to get a lift to start out.

Best of luck!
 
Good choice on vehicles to get for reliability and expedition travel. If you get a well maintained vehicle with the 3.4 and follow your savings plan, you will be able to buy a nice replacement vehicle with your savings WHEN you finally have the catastrophic failure you are describing.
 

Loubaru

Adventurer
What are everyone's thoughts on the locker vs. LSD? I'm assuming the locker acts as an 100% open diff when its not engaged correct? If this is true, it seems like a LSD would be better for most "normal" driving situations, such as driving in poor conditions as highway speeds. Obviously at slower speeds the locker would be better but most of everyone's driving is not "off road". Sorry if this is a dump question, its coming from a car guy that is looking into buying his first truck.
 

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