chadwicksavage
Adventurer
Well now you have me driving backroads, peeking around barns to try and find my own $500 sweet rig. If any of your other neighbors move, please pm me.
First Foray into 4Runners - My 1st Gen Build
- Thread starter Summit Cruisers Jr
- Start date
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Haha sometimes that’s how great deals are found. You never know who is out there with a clean example and doesn’t know how/want to sell it on the internet. I’m super lucky for this deal. I’ve heard of others getting deals on things and never thought it would happen to me but here I am.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
I finished adding the roof bars to the new framework Saturday morning. I made them all bolt in so everything should pack down should I ever need to remove this top and store it. I also found some light bar mounts on amazon that worked perfectly for bolting up my middle crossbar. I have always disliked how the canback frame competed with the rollbar and looked out of place so I’m stoked on this solution.
I then decided to drop on the CVT and headed out to preride the race course and camp with friends. The evening was hot and I was questioning what I was doing, but luckily it dropped a smidge below 80* and I kind of slept. I still prefer crawling into a bag shivering in the cold, but unfortunately that’s at least several months out for Oklahoma.
On the way out, I took a good amount of backroads and it was awesome. It was the first time I’ve got to put the Chevy 63s through the paces and they felt great despite a tad bit more body roll introduced by the rtt.
I then decided to drop on the CVT and headed out to preride the race course and camp with friends. The evening was hot and I was questioning what I was doing, but luckily it dropped a smidge below 80* and I kind of slept. I still prefer crawling into a bag shivering in the cold, but unfortunately that’s at least several months out for Oklahoma.
On the way out, I took a good amount of backroads and it was awesome. It was the first time I’ve got to put the Chevy 63s through the paces and they felt great despite a tad bit more body roll introduced by the rtt.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Wow that’s really cool to hear that you were an original owner. I wonder how many with their 1st gens are still out there?
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Well I fired up the 4runner this morning and it was significantly down on power. Oddly enough, last night it was running perfectly. Turns out that the entire catalytic converter had fragmented and everything had been blown into the muffler impeding flow. After cleaning that out, it’s running great and fuel mileage has improved.
Oh and I finally have PROPER CUPHOLDERS!
Using a free printing service on campus, I was finally able to solve one of the greatest issues with a 1st gen 4runner (well at least a 1st gen with 22re and 5 speed)
The total print time was around 35 hours, and with a 12 hour limit I had to wait weeks between prints, but I have it all plastic expoxied together. I need to do a bit of sanding and bondo so it’s all smooth since I hate “finished” things that look 3D printed.
It holds either two cups and my phone or I can rest my Bluetooth speaker lengthwise in the round tray at the top for peak audio performance.
I have also pulled my rear window out. I’ve looked at several possible solutions so I could keep it with my new top build, but having the curved window track eats up interior space, requires an insanely complex window run, and at the end of the day decided I would be better off doing something else.
I thought I could get away with having a flat window made, but the track curves into the tailgate and not wanting to deal with that, I’ve decided I am going to use Lexan so that it has enough flexibility to roll down into the curved window track in the tailgate, but it will still be able to roll straight up into an easier to build track.
Unfortunately, it’s probably going to get really scratched up, but I’m hoping I can get some paint film or tint on it that increases its durability or at least enables quick repairs without replacing the lexan.
My rear window tracks that were crimped onto the glass were just begging to be cleaned. Oddly, there isn’t a single spec of rust in my tailgate so it makes me wonder if these were never coated.
Oh and I finally have PROPER CUPHOLDERS!
Using a free printing service on campus, I was finally able to solve one of the greatest issues with a 1st gen 4runner (well at least a 1st gen with 22re and 5 speed)
The total print time was around 35 hours, and with a 12 hour limit I had to wait weeks between prints, but I have it all plastic expoxied together. I need to do a bit of sanding and bondo so it’s all smooth since I hate “finished” things that look 3D printed.
It holds either two cups and my phone or I can rest my Bluetooth speaker lengthwise in the round tray at the top for peak audio performance.
I have also pulled my rear window out. I’ve looked at several possible solutions so I could keep it with my new top build, but having the curved window track eats up interior space, requires an insanely complex window run, and at the end of the day decided I would be better off doing something else.
I thought I could get away with having a flat window made, but the track curves into the tailgate and not wanting to deal with that, I’ve decided I am going to use Lexan so that it has enough flexibility to roll down into the curved window track in the tailgate, but it will still be able to roll straight up into an easier to build track.
Unfortunately, it’s probably going to get really scratched up, but I’m hoping I can get some paint film or tint on it that increases its durability or at least enables quick repairs without replacing the lexan.
My rear window tracks that were crimped onto the glass were just begging to be cleaned. Oddly, there isn’t a single spec of rust in my tailgate so it makes me wonder if these were never coated.
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Since finishing up the semester, I brought the 4runner home and put the hardtop on since it no longer has a garage spot.
With the top build on hold, I had to build something else so here’s a teaser.
In addition to that, I changed the oil today, and my battery from 3/19 crapped out in addition to a sporadically charging alternator so I’m likely replacing both in the near future and check all positive and ground cables.
I also have my console lid bondo’d and ready for paint. I also filled the old cruiser control stalk hole in the column cover and painted it black.
I also swapped the wiring plugs and light plugs from the turn signals to the corner lights. Obviously there’s a big difference between the 27w bulb in the bumper turn signal and the 4w bulb in the corner light. They didn’t show up so I swapped in some 2825 LEDs as they fit in the 194 bulb spot.
I also bought an LED flasher relay after attempting to disable the low voltage detection circuit in the OEM flasher relay (which causes the hyper flashing) didn’t work out. But unfortunately, that 3 prong relay was not the same prong spacing as the OEM flasher relay.
With the top build on hold, I had to build something else so here’s a teaser.
In addition to that, I changed the oil today, and my battery from 3/19 crapped out in addition to a sporadically charging alternator so I’m likely replacing both in the near future and check all positive and ground cables.
I also have my console lid bondo’d and ready for paint. I also filled the old cruiser control stalk hole in the column cover and painted it black.
I also swapped the wiring plugs and light plugs from the turn signals to the corner lights. Obviously there’s a big difference between the 27w bulb in the bumper turn signal and the 4w bulb in the corner light. They didn’t show up so I swapped in some 2825 LEDs as they fit in the 194 bulb spot.
I also bought an LED flasher relay after attempting to disable the low voltage detection circuit in the OEM flasher relay (which causes the hyper flashing) didn’t work out. But unfortunately, that 3 prong relay was not the same prong spacing as the OEM flasher relay.
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Front bumper is done-ish
For not having a brake, I’m pretty pleased with how it turned out, but it’s not quite perfect and I still have somethings that I will be adding/altering in the semi near future as I need to put my time into other projects right now.
Front skid/center section is removable 3/16” steel with the framework being 1.5” 3/16” wall square tubing.
These are the wing designs I am torn between and will do in the near future when I have time. I’m also adding a slim light bar into the top vertical section and some dimple dies into the lower section(s) to cut weight on the removable piece.
I may just tweak the design and have the entire thing cnc cut and bent down the road. And leave this as a slimmer prerunner style bumper but who knows.
Bending the 3/16” plate...
Installed. I thought painting the center section to match the matte dark bronze on the wheels would be cool, and it is until the sun shines on it. At that point it looks more gold so this in the immediate future will be redone.
I also trimmed out some of the core support that hung down in front of the wheels to improve aesthetics and show off that crusty stock IFS with ball joint lift. Now it just needs a TC LT kit and King coilovers to look complete.
For not having a brake, I’m pretty pleased with how it turned out, but it’s not quite perfect and I still have somethings that I will be adding/altering in the semi near future as I need to put my time into other projects right now.
Front skid/center section is removable 3/16” steel with the framework being 1.5” 3/16” wall square tubing.
These are the wing designs I am torn between and will do in the near future when I have time. I’m also adding a slim light bar into the top vertical section and some dimple dies into the lower section(s) to cut weight on the removable piece.
I may just tweak the design and have the entire thing cnc cut and bent down the road. And leave this as a slimmer prerunner style bumper but who knows.
Bending the 3/16” plate...
Installed. I thought painting the center section to match the matte dark bronze on the wheels would be cool, and it is until the sun shines on it. At that point it looks more gold so this in the immediate future will be redone.
I also trimmed out some of the core support that hung down in front of the wheels to improve aesthetics and show off that crusty stock IFS with ball joint lift. Now it just needs a TC LT kit and King coilovers to look complete.
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Well, it’s been about 16 months and the “keep it mostly stock” mentality has left my mind.
I just ordered a Blazeland WIY kit which means I will have to do new t100 CVs, bushings, shocks, and depending on how wide it ends up looking maybe advanced fiberglass concepts front front fenders with hannemann rear flares. I’ll also likely be throwing on some 17” 4runner SR5 snowflake wheels and some 285/75s I have sitting around.
It looks like the blazeland LT is roughly a 7” increase in front track width so....
I’m also picking up a 2000 V8 tundra rear axle this Friday for $50.
It might have the LSD but likely doesn’t. From what I’ve read, it has 3.90 gears in it, so if I decide to run it, it’ll get an LSD and gears. Hoping to find a 4.56 or 4.88 V6 front diff. This will also give me the clearance to run 14” outboarded shocks in the rear.
I also had some time this weekend to throw some more tubing onto the bumper. Structure is done now and just need to install the light bar and add some dimple dies and cut outs into the center section as soon as the bar comes in.
And then I saw this new color Profitt’s developed on Instagram. Might just be moving to the number 1 paint color in mind if I ever have time to paint it.
so yeah there’s more or less the direction I’m going/would like to go overall with this.
I just ordered a Blazeland WIY kit which means I will have to do new t100 CVs, bushings, shocks, and depending on how wide it ends up looking maybe advanced fiberglass concepts front front fenders with hannemann rear flares. I’ll also likely be throwing on some 17” 4runner SR5 snowflake wheels and some 285/75s I have sitting around.
It looks like the blazeland LT is roughly a 7” increase in front track width so....
I’m also picking up a 2000 V8 tundra rear axle this Friday for $50.
It might have the LSD but likely doesn’t. From what I’ve read, it has 3.90 gears in it, so if I decide to run it, it’ll get an LSD and gears. Hoping to find a 4.56 or 4.88 V6 front diff. This will also give me the clearance to run 14” outboarded shocks in the rear.
I also had some time this weekend to throw some more tubing onto the bumper. Structure is done now and just need to install the light bar and add some dimple dies and cut outs into the center section as soon as the bar comes in.
And then I saw this new color Profitt’s developed on Instagram. Might just be moving to the number 1 paint color in mind if I ever have time to paint it.
so yeah there’s more or less the direction I’m going/would like to go overall with this.
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tennesseewj
Observer
Well that escalated quickly 
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Well that escalated quickly
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Yeah I really want to be able to take this thing on some trails and whatnot and given the shape of the front end, I can’t imagine those CVs with missing boots holding up very long. I’m also moving this summer so I won’t have a garage full of tools at my disposal, so it’s kind of a now or maybe sometime several years down the road type deal. This will also keep some wear and tear off the cruiser as I’m sick of trashing its paint on the tight trails in Arkansas where this thing will really be in its element.
EDIT: Welp despite agreeing to pay the guy with the tundra rear axle asking price, I touched base with him today to firm up a time to pick it up tomorrow and he told me he sold it. So looks like I need to figure out something better there. Maybe I can find one with an LSD stock...
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Wa la. It’s done until I have to widen it. I think going back to a grille made for this truck and rectangular headlights will fill that top gap nicely.
I’ve also got my eyes on an ‘04 4runner rear axle in a local pull yard. They’re ~6” wider than the stock rear axle so that’ll play nicer with everything and be an inch narrower than the front after it gets LT.
I’ve also got my eyes on an ‘04 4runner rear axle in a local pull yard. They’re ~6” wider than the stock rear axle so that’ll play nicer with everything and be an inch narrower than the front after it gets LT.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Made a trip out to NWA last weekend. On the way back I took a detour and picked up a 4th gen 4runner rear axle. I’m pretty relieved that my 15” wheels barely fit over the calipers and rotors so I won’t have to change out to some 5th gen 17” wheels I have sitting around. 
I’ve got it cleaned up now for the most part. I’m going to smooth out the grinding a bit tomorrow and get it ready to sandblast along with a bunch of other stuff like my canback frame and receiver hitch and mounts.
The hannemann rear flares came in the other day as well and I’m not too stoked on them. When emailing with them about specs I was told they were just 3” wider. Nothing about a ~2” rise that would require reworking the quarter panels to fit.
I’m pretty hesitant to cut up mostly good quarter panels for the gain of having flares and a little more room to tuck tires. At this point I’m undecided if I want to run them. Overall, I am not too impressed with the quality or the bubble wrap fee...yeah bubble wrap fee - to place a flare directly on top of the other and wrap a layer of bubble wrap around both and then tape it and drop it into a massive box with no padding or filler other than that bubble wrap. The sprayed on white coating is also pretty pathetic. I would rather have nothing than something filled with imperfections and runs that is just going to require even more work to make right.
I saw that this part of the flare hung down unnecessarily far on their website. I asked them about it and they said it went to a mounting point, but there’s absolutely nothing there and it makes no sense. So yeah, they also won’t fit with the stock rear bumper so I’ve picked up some more steel and will be building one.
Not much of a lip here to attach a liner to etc once the fender and wheel well have been trimmed and brought upwards.
I’m almost to the point of just returning them and making my own that won’t require cutting the quarter panels, but then aesthetically thinking about it, the front fenders have a rise in them so is it going to look visually weird if the rears haven’t been raised?
I’ve got it cleaned up now for the most part. I’m going to smooth out the grinding a bit tomorrow and get it ready to sandblast along with a bunch of other stuff like my canback frame and receiver hitch and mounts.
The hannemann rear flares came in the other day as well and I’m not too stoked on them. When emailing with them about specs I was told they were just 3” wider. Nothing about a ~2” rise that would require reworking the quarter panels to fit.
I’m pretty hesitant to cut up mostly good quarter panels for the gain of having flares and a little more room to tuck tires. At this point I’m undecided if I want to run them. Overall, I am not too impressed with the quality or the bubble wrap fee...yeah bubble wrap fee - to place a flare directly on top of the other and wrap a layer of bubble wrap around both and then tape it and drop it into a massive box with no padding or filler other than that bubble wrap. The sprayed on white coating is also pretty pathetic. I would rather have nothing than something filled with imperfections and runs that is just going to require even more work to make right.
I saw that this part of the flare hung down unnecessarily far on their website. I asked them about it and they said it went to a mounting point, but there’s absolutely nothing there and it makes no sense. So yeah, they also won’t fit with the stock rear bumper so I’ve picked up some more steel and will be building one.
Not much of a lip here to attach a liner to etc once the fender and wheel well have been trimmed and brought upwards.
I’m almost to the point of just returning them and making my own that won’t require cutting the quarter panels, but then aesthetically thinking about it, the front fenders have a rise in them so is it going to look visually weird if the rears haven’t been raised?
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Rear bumper is kind of done. Once again I put too much time into this thing for what it is playing with angles and what not trying to make the square tube work. I went through about 4 iterations before ending up with this version. Originally I had wanted to keep the entire top of the bumper at the same height but the quarter panels swoop upwards towards the back and I was just not happy with the gaps.
Once I get the flares on, I’ll cap the ends and finish up the wings. I’m going to be adding some more protection for the quarter panels underneath the side bars. I’ve also got it planned out for some dual sheer face mount swing outs but haven’t ordered those and not 100% sure I want to commit to swing outs on this yet, so I’m still thinking that over.
Once I get the flares on, I’ll cap the ends and finish up the wings. I’m going to be adding some more protection for the quarter panels underneath the side bars. I’ve also got it planned out for some dual sheer face mount swing outs but haven’t ordered those and not 100% sure I want to commit to swing outs on this yet, so I’m still thinking that over.