First Fuso FM from RUF Inc

[DontPanic42]

RE: standard bar, factory socket

Our 2007 U.S.A. market FG did not come with any tire changing tools at all. No bar, no socket, no nothing.

Neither did my 2004. I was told jacks, tyre tools, etc., presented a potential liability issue.
More and more I agree with Shakespeare.

Kerry - I agree, it is difficult to distinguish the difference between the L & R stamped on the studs. The difference between the gold and silver lug nuts is not that easy either if you are slightly colour blind.

 

[Steve_in_29]

I can't comment on the dramas you guys are having in freeing these wheel nuts as I have rarely had to use anything longer than 4' and usually the standard bar is OK. One thing I do however is always use some anti-sieze on the nuts. Not normal grease but anti-sieze, never-sieze, kopr-kote, etc,etc. and not just on the threads but make sure it goes on the beveled face that makes contact with the wheel. This is normally why they freeze. Also everything tightens so much easier this way. Then go ever the nuts again after the wheels have settled in (maybe a 100kms or so) and nip them up AGAIN. This last step is really important.

IMO correct torque even with a Tension Wrench cannot be achieved when the beveled surface is dry and friction comes into play.......

.......The anti-seize is something I was shown so long back I can't remember but I've never read anything to the contrary. I stress this is my opinion and please someone set me straight if it's not best practice.

You are both right and wrong. Anti-seize is great for keeping the nuts from corroding onto the studs but its use will change the torque value.

There are normally three ways torque spec's are given, DRY, LUBED (anti-seize) and OIL, with each being different. There are actually more specs then this for various plating's, dry film lubricants and pre-applied locking compounds but those are the more common ones. For wheel studs the manufacturers actually take the friction of the dry (and clean) threads into consideration when coming up with the torque spec.

Tightening a nut to the dry spec when anti-seize is used will result in the nut being over tightened, which could result in stretching the stud or overstressing the nut threads with the result of premature breakage of the stud (less likely) or stripping the nut (most likely). In pretty much all instances the torque spec for lug nuts is given for a dry nut. It is normal procedure to reduce the dry torque spec by 20% when a lube is being used and no "lubed spec" is provided.

 

[Steve_in_29]

Neither did my 2004. I was told jacks, tyre tools, etc., presented a potential liability issue.....

I was told this by several RV makers as well. With the use of larger wheel/tire combination they feel a road-service call (AAA for example) will expose them to less liability in case some old codger hurts himself doing a tire change. Plus as people are noting on here it isn't easy to get the required torque values without special tools. When I mentioned about people taking the rig off the beaten path where AAA won't respond and a flat would leave you stranded they had no answer.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Anti seize or not????

Originally Posted by dhackney
RE: standard bar, factory socket

Our 2007 U.S.A. market FG did not come with any tire changing tools at all. No bar, no socket, no nothing.

Doug I was about to say "Wait till Stephanie finds out that the reason you bought that mother of all racthet bars was cause you left the factory tools back at the dealer." when the others came to your defence. Don't worry it's hardly what you'd call a toolkit. I will measure up the exact length of a standard bar if you like but I guess they are only about 24" long and I also believe that Mitsubishi made them this length for a reason and that it was never intended that anything longer be used to tighten the nuts.

To expand my case for antiseize, IMO an old dry nut put on with a 2' bar POSSIBLY may not achieve proper tension and after even more time/moisture,etc may require a much greater force to remove. Whereas a lubed nut from new, put on with a 2' bar will go tight and probably still only need a 2' bar to remove it.

Of course Stevein29 is so right. Be really careful using long breaker bars and cheaters. Only a tiny smear of antiseize on the thread and bevel face will change everything. Like I said I normally only use the standard bar or one slightly longer for undoing tough ones so that I don't get into trouble overtensioning.

I haven't found any tire changing tools on my 99 either. Of course they could have been removed but I don't see any place where they were stored.

Here's a long thread on anti-seize and lug bolts.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...nut-studs-why/

I think I'm going to use your experience with FG's as the relevant data and use some.

Kerry, Always a pleasure to talk to catch up. I think the '99 model tools and jack were either behind the seat or in the chassis mounted toolbox. Maybe you don't have one on your truck. Sounds like none of the US trucks do. It's a lockable box 18"L x 10"H x 10"D. Nah. It was the Izusu NPS that were behind the seat so they must have been in the toolbox. When I go to work next week I'll dig one out a post a pic. We take 'em off and strap the tools in a bin or boot(trunk) so they are piling up around my ears. We tried selling the toolboxes on ebay but got on response. BTW that wheel in the pic is an Izusu NPS but the bar and socket look identical to the FG's.

Thanks for the awesome link to the thread, even has NASA's take on it. Unbelievable.

I'm going to use your experience with FG's as the relevant data

Please DO NOT DO THIS. There are two sides to this as Stevein29 (and obviously he is well informed) has pointed out. I get a real kick out of sharing my experience but I stress that this is what works for ME. I am definetly not a Mitsubishi trained mechanic and would never forgive myself if I were to pass on information that led to mechanical/component failure/damage or worse personal injury. If you know what I mean. Listen to what your dealer, the handbook, your own mechanic, guys on the forum, etc,etc and form your own opinion.

Anyway I'm off to the hammock for a while with a printout of that thread.

 

[DontPanic42]

For what it is worth, there are "U" shaped spring clips behind the seat of my '04 FG. I would think they would be used to hold some type of tools. Part of the reason why I asked the dealer about a jack and tools. Right now, I think it would be a good place to park my 410 'snake charmer' shotgun.

 

[Mickldo]

We don't have the FG's at work but we do have the Isuzu NPS 300 4x4s. They have a great factory tool kit. So good that they are often missing. They come with a small grease gun, hammer, spanners, screwdrivers, etc. as well as the wheel brace and jack. Very good quality kit. The dealers quite often "lose them". When we get the Isuzus we have to check to see if they are in there and if they are missing we have to contact the dealer and chase them up otherwise we get blamed for pinching them when we deliver the truck.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Tools

Hi Mick Yeah I know but the FG does't have anything like NPS. Anyway you know what they say about tools.

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT

DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES,

USE THE DUCT TAPE.

OR

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

 

[whatcharterboat]

FG Toolbox

HI Can see that I'm going to invest in a camera very soon.

The toolboxes have brackets in them for the jack and tool bag but the bar usually goes behind the seat.Unfortunately we won't have an FG till early next week but I did measure the Isuzu bar which was 23 & 1/4" long and they are very similar.

John

 

[dhackney]

For what it is worth, there are "U" shaped spring clips behind the seat of my '04 FG. ... Right now, I think it would be a good place to park my 410 'snake charmer' shotgun.

I used ours to park a welding rod case holding a parachute flare.

It doesn't qualify as a 'snake charmer,' but it was as close as I could get to a CIWS (Sea Whiz). I was hoping for something more along the lines of a Phalanx, but, as it turned out, we're 4,499 short of 4,500 rounds per minute.

 

[soundpony]

DHackney....

Can you advise on info or website regarding purchasing overland/expedition vehicles for sale in South America?

I took my KTM950 down last Xmas and rode to TDF and back to BA. ARG.

I would like to do it in a vehicle next time...

Considering shipping a vehicle such as Sprinter or Tacoma and actually awaiting quote from both Dakar Motos in BA and Scott with Expeditions West into Valparaiso.

Any info greatly appreciated!

Fantastic journey you have been on! Kudos to you and a job very well done on your rig! I love that Fuso platform.

Sincerely,

Chas Walter
Lake Tahoe, CA
Buenos Aires, ARG

 

[dhackney]

Chas,

I am sorry, I cannot offer any info on web sites for vehicles for sale in SA.

If you read or speak German, check out this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=757 and read the German overlanders' sites. There are lots of links there, and probably info on Europeans who are finishing their SA journey and would like to sell.

They may be gone already, but Peter and Stefi are interested in selling their 110 when they complete their SA trip. Check out the topic here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17480

IMO, it would make a lot more sense to fly down here and buy a diesel Hilux (Taco) than ship in a gas truck. Build or buy a slip in camper solution and ship it down or buy a slip in camper solution down here. Local market campers are set up for local AC voltage, propane connections, etc. Local market trucks can be serviced anywhere by anybody. Diesel Hiluxes are ubiquitous.

Keep things simple. You really DO NOT need all that aftermarket stuff to overland in SA. All most of it will do is decrease reliability and make repair much more challenging when you are in the boonies.

I don't think there is anywhere you are likely to go down here that you can't get to in a stock 4x4 crew cab diesel Hilux. If you want to go somewhere that truck can't go, then, IMO, you are on a Sport 4x4 mission, not overlanding, and are unlikely to survive long enough to see much of the continent.

A realistic scenario is:

1. Research local markets here. The web is your friend.
2. Make a local contact for translation services if you are not fluent
3. Have your local contact do specific local market / product research.
4. At this point you should have a realistic idea of pricing on used trucks / campers.
5. Fly in and rent a furnished place for a month. (Peru or Ecuador would cost you $350-450 USD per month, including cleaning service.)
6. Eyeball potential purchases.
7. Pay a local dealership to check out potential trucks. Things down here are just as professional as in the U.S. South America is not Africa or Central Asia.
8. Purchase a used Hilux or comparable Mitsubishi or Nissan. Toyotas are everywhere, other brands are weak or non-existant in some areas. You can get a Hilux fixed ANYWHERE.
9. Purchase a new or used slip in camper or install the one you shipped down.

If you want a bigger vehicle, you can buy a used Mercedes diesel chassis motor home (casa rodante) in Argentina for $10-30k USD. That will be a 2wd, dual rear wheel vehicle. You could put a bike on the bumper for further exploration or just go where the MH will take you (probably at least 80% of the places you are likely to go) and then rent a local Hilux or donkey to see the rest.

In either case, you will need insurance. AIG sells global full coverage for values up to $50k USD. Cost is about 10% of value per year, i.e. $5k USD for $50k USD coverage annually.

AIG also sells global liability. You can purchase a policy from an Argentinian company that provides liability coverage for all the MARCOSUR (SA trading block) countries.

Fly and buy makes sense from a lot of perspectives.

But, even if you ship something down, I encourage you to stop spending money on stuff for the truck right this instant. You don't need all the stuff. All it does is make things less reliable, more troublesome to repair, and, most importantly, delays your departure.

It's not about the truck. It's about the experiences.

Be well,
Doug

 

[isaac]

Off topic tangent:

Chas,
Local market trucks can be serviced anywhere by anybody. Diesel Hiluxes are ubiquitous.

Keep things simple. You really DO NOT need all that aftermarket stuff to overland in SA. All most of it will do is decrease reliability and make repair much more challenging when you are in the boonies.

I don't think there is anywhere you are likely to go down here that you can't get to in a stock 4x4 crew cab diesel Hilux. If you want to go somewhere that truck can't go, then, IMO, you are on a Sport 4x4 mission, not overlanding

[...]

money on stuff for the truck right this instant. You don't need all the stuff. All it does is make things less reliable, more troublesome to repair, and, most importantly, delays your departure.

It's not about the truck. It's about the experiences.

Be well,
Doug

Just want to chip in and agree with this statement, from here in India.

My wife and I recently made the drive from Delhi up into the high Himalayas to the Tibet border, via Uttarakhand to the Niti Pass. I spent a month obsessing about which "proper 4WD" I was going to spend $1000/day renting, before we ended up in a totally unsuitably car-type SUV Nissan X-Trail. (At least it was a TDI right?) Well suffice it to say we had BY FAR the most expensive and sophisticated vehicle on these roads, which were no joke. They required solid technique, some bravery and a certain blind faith.

The locals were all driving these Mahindra Jeeps, which sell for a few thousand bucks here:

http://images.google.co.in/images?hl=en&q=mahindra maxx&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

They were bombing along just as fast as (though much less comfortably than) we were. And their vehicle cost less to buy outright (and operate, and repair) than I would have paid to rent a Landy or Land Cruiser for 10 days.

End of the day: we had a great time. Not because of the truck. In fact we tore the exhaust off the X-Trail and lost a day to field repairs to save the turbo. The magic is the people we met, and the amazing landscapes (20,000+ ft mountains surrounding us like a wall) and profound sense of getting away from it all... which, during our trip, was the collapse of the US economy. All seems distant and irrelevant when you're 12,000 miles away shelling beans with an 85 y/o Himalayan grandmother who has never seen a white person before. And just wants to make you sure you have some more potato fritter.

Of course, I love the perfect truck as much as the next guy. ;-)

But it's not required for a good time, if anything maybe it gets in the way.

- Isaac