First Time CB Help

4x4junkie

Explorer
^^
lol

I keep both a VOM and a DMM around. There have been times when the needle sweeping across that big white mirrored scale gives a better indication than a bunch of little dark segments flickering on a display can. :) A VOM is hard-pressed to match the absolute accuracy of a DMM however.

More than that...the rack appears to use a gutter mount, and I doubt that provides a good electrical ground to the body of the vehicle unless special consideration was made to do so.

As a test of the ground, you could use a set of jumper cables clamped to the rack (or to the antenna bracket) and then to a clean ground on the vehicle body. With the jumper in place, check the radio functionality again.

That rack looks to be fairly large... I suspect even if it was hanging in free air it has enough mass to act as a decent RF ground-plane for an antenna (note that an RF ground-plane is not the same thing as a DC ground). It being DC grounded to the body can still alleviate issues with static buildup though and/or a crackling sound occurring in the audio from the rack jiggling against the vehicle body.
 

1989FJ

New member
Thanks for the firestik link, that looks promising.

I'll try to get my hands on the meters so that I can check everything once the truck gets out of the shop.

What would Dc grounding it ential? I would rather not drill into my body...
 

Frdmskr

Adventurer
Best way to mount any antenna is drilling the hole. No question about it. Only hurts the first time. I promise. :)

To learn a lot about antenna mounting for HF see http://www.k0bg.com . Fantastic resource for learning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
Thanks for the firestik link, that looks promising.

I'll try to get my hands on the meters so that I can check everything once the truck gets out of the shop.

What would Dc grounding it ential? I would rather not drill into my body...

I'd leave it alone for right now until after you get a SWR meter on your antenna, and then go from there. It may be fine just as it is simply due to the rack's size (assuming the brackets & stuff where it's clamped to the gutters is all metal). If grounding it is needed, maybe run wires from the back of it somewhere to bolts for the rear door hinges perhaps (same could be done up front also, run wires down the A or B pillars or under their molding (if that's what I see) to a bolt somewhere).
 

Frdmskr

Adventurer
I was thinking of checking the cable for a bad connector first. Second remove the spring and see if it changes this. After that gets more interesting.


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stioc

Expedition Leader
I guess I got lucky with my setup- because I used a Wilson magnetic mount antenna with my Midland CB for years without any issues or SWR tuning etc.
I eventually switched to HAM and FRS.
 

jrwhiting

New member
Just an FYI, you do NOT want to ground the antenna to the vehicle. The antenna MUST be isolated from the vehicle, that's why there is that plastic piece between the mount and the antenna base. If the antenna element is making physical contact with the vehicle it will short out. If you try to transmit with the antenna element making physical contact with the vehicle you can burn out your radio. Now when it comes to receiving a signal, having the antenna tuned is NOT an issue. The antenna tune only effects the transmit side. You can stick a wire coat hanger into the back of the radio and it will receive.
 

Frdmskr

Adventurer
Just an FYI, you do NOT want to ground the antenna to the vehicle. The antenna MUST be isolated from the vehicle, that's why there is that plastic piece between the mount and the antenna base. If the antenna element is making physical contact with the vehicle it will short out. If you try to transmit with the antenna element making physical contact with the vehicle you can burn out your radio. Now when it comes to receiving a signal, having the antenna tuned is NOT an issue. The antenna tune only effects the transmit side. You can stick a wire coat hanger into the back of the radio and it will receive.

But you DO want the SHIELD of the coax grounded. If the mount is properly installed the shield goes to ground and the center pin if the coax goes to the antenna. There should be a plastic bushing keeping the mount/shield/ground and the antenna/center pin/connector from touching.
 

Ozarker

Well-known member
Just an FYI, you do NOT want to ground the antenna to the vehicle. The antenna MUST be isolated from the vehicle, that's why there is that plastic piece between the mount and the antenna base. If the antenna element is making physical contact with the vehicle it will short out. If you try to transmit with the antenna element making physical contact with the vehicle you can burn out your radio. Now when it comes to receiving a signal, having the antenna tuned is NOT an issue. The antenna tune only effects the transmit side. You can stick a wire coat hanger into the back of the radio and it will receive.

Agree totally! Do not attempt to transmit until you are receiving without any problems.

For a free radio, the first good sign was it didn't smoke.

Your antenna is grounded electrically as Jrwhiting mention, do not wire an additional ground to the antenna. Unlike HAM radio, CB antennas are tune to length to cover the entire CB spectrum, they are idiot proof. Antennas for HAM radio are tuned to the frequency band to be used, the HAM bands have a much wider frequency spectrum requiring them to match the band utilized. There is probably nothing wrong with your antenna. You don't need any meters or other testing gizmos to set up a CB radio. FCC regulations do not allow you to make adjustments internally in your radio without the proper license, you can't "homebrew" anything with respect to transmitting. Use manufactured antennas and accessories for your radio.

Check the coax connection, the center pin should not be bent or cracked and the connections should be tight, the coax may have been soldered, so check that. Check the same at the radio as well.

Make sure the radio is grounded. It lights up so it should be good.

As mentioned turn the squelch until you hear noise. Turn the channel selector as well, you could be on a channel that is bad through it's IF stages, if you got a boat anchor the crystals could be a problem, newer ones are synthesized, so try different channels.

You probably have an "S" meter, signal strength meter, as you change channels, wait and watch to see if the meter jumps, this will indicate that you are receiving a signal, try different channels.

Are you using an external speaker? If so, disconnect it and use the radio speaker if there is one, see if the speaker is torn or damaged, all you should do is look through the speaker holes with a light and see if it looks like a rat's nest. If that is not the issue or there is no internal speaker check the speaker connections and wire to the external speaker.

If you hear noise turn the volume up, if it doesn't get louder you have a bad control or internal problems.

If you have VOX, voice actuated transmit, turn it off.

I'd suggest you call the friend you got it from and have him talk you through the connections and set up. I'd also suggest you get your license registered before you attempt to transmit. 73's!
 
Last edited:

4x4junkie

Explorer
You don't need any meters or other testing gizmos to set up a CB radio. FCC regulations do not allow you to make adjustments internally in your radio without the proper license, you can't "homebrew" anything with respect to transmitting. Use manufactured antennas and accessories for your radio.

Very bad advice...

You should ALWAYS check the SWR of your antenna after installation, as well as any time a problem is suspected (as is the case here). There is no other way to know whether your antenna system is working to it's full potential.

Also, nobody ever said the OP should open up his radio to adjust stuff inside it, however since you brought it up...
I do recall regulations at one time did prohibit users making internal repairs or adjustments to transmitters, however that no longer seems to be the case (from here under "§95.424 (CB Rule 24) How do I have my CB station transmitter serviced?")

(b) You are responsible for the proper operation of the station at all times and are expected to provide for observations, servicing and maintenance as often as may be necessary to ensure proper operation. You must have all internal repairs or internal adjustments to your CB transmitter made in accordance with the Technical Regulations (see subpart E). The internal repairs or internal adjustments should be performed by or under the immediate supervision and responsibility of a person certified as technically qualified to perform transmitter maintenance and repair duties in the private land mobile services and fixed services by an organization or committee representative of users in those services.
Note the use of the words "should be" (as opposed to "must be" or some other similar directive) in the last sentence.

And use of homebrewed antennas and accessories (that don't cause your signal to violate rules regarding transmitter output power) are in no way illegal whatsoever (nor were they ever). But again, nothing in the OP's installation appears to be homemade.


Just an FYI, you do NOT want to ground the antenna to the vehicle. The antenna MUST be isolated from the vehicle, that's why there is that plastic piece between the mount and the antenna base. If the antenna element is making physical contact with the vehicle it will short out. If you try to transmit with the antenna element making physical contact with the vehicle you can burn out your radio. Now when it comes to receiving a signal, having the antenna tuned is NOT an issue. The antenna tune only effects the transmit side. You can stick a wire coat hanger into the back of the radio and it will receive.

"Grounding the antenna" generally refers to grounding of the antenna's mount or bracket, not the actual radiating element... In the OP's pic on the first page the plastic insulating washer appears to be in place at the base of his antenna.
A poorly tuned antenna without question affects the receive, it just may not be apparent in mild cases of mismatch (but is very apparent in cases of gross mismatch or with a shorted or open antenna circuit).
 

k9lestat

Expedition Leader
Very bad advice...

You should ALWAYS check the SWR of your antenna after installation, as well as any time a problem is suspected (as is the case here). There is no other way to know whether your antenna system is working to it's full potential.

Also, nobody ever said the OP should open up his radio to adjust stuff inside it, however since you brought it up...
I do recall regulations at one time did prohibit users making internal repairs or adjustments to transmitters, however that no longer seems to be the case (from here under "§95.424 (CB Rule 24) How do I have my CB station transmitter serviced?")


Note the use of the words "should be" (as opposed to "must be" or some other similar directive) in the last sentence.

And use of homebrewed antennas and accessories (that don't cause your signal to violate rules regarding transmitter output power) are in no way illegal whatsoever (nor were they ever). But again, nothing in the OP's installation appears to be homemade.




"Grounding the antenna" generally refers to grounding of the antenna's mount or bracket, not the actual radiating element... In the OP's pic on the first page the plastic insulating washer appears to be in place at the base of his antenna.
A poorly tuned antenna without question affects the receive, it just may not be apparent in mild cases of mismatch (but is very apparent in cases of gross mismatch or with a shorted or open antenna circuit).

i agree with you. I think He took something said the wrongway.

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