DonBeasley
Adventurer
Angle iron will cover a multitude of sins.
FlashHole's M416 trailer Build
- Thread starter Flashole
- Start date
Kflash
Adventurer
I was initially thinking I'd have to find a metal supplier. Lowes carries angle iron and 1" square tubing up to 6 feet. Not sure if it costs more buying from them? I would also need to weld an additional 6 inches or so to the angle iron for the sides. Shouldn't be an issue though.
Been practicing with the flux core welder. Getting better!
Been practicing with the flux core welder. Getting better!
Not much to update. I seem to only get an hour or two at a time and it's tough to get into any kind of groove.
At any rate, I got the end caps straightened out. That was a bit tedious since there isn't much room. Had to do a lot of sanding with little pieces of sandpaper wrapped around a paint stir stick. After doing that, I started on the tailgate and decided that I would be much better off just cutting the sheet metal skin off and replacing it. On Saturday, I cut it off and did the needed grinding and welding.
and today I picked up some sheet metal from a local sheet metal fabricating company and welded it up. Looks soooooo much better than it ever would have, and it has no body filler in it which is good since it will be used as a bench and such.
I've got a couple of these strap hinges on order for the lid. Hopefully, they will be here this week so I can begin figuring out how to attach them.
While I was at it, I ordered this handle to use for the lid.
I also ordered a couple of these draw tight type latches. I initially ordered a couple of nicer one that actually locked shut. Not a security type lock, just a won't come open type lock. Anyway, after I made the order, it gave me a delivery date sometime in the middle of may which is to long to wait. Hopefully, these will be solid and won't pop open unexpectedly.
Except for the lid, I am pretty much done with the welding and grinding. I'm am down to doing the finishing work getting it ready for paint.
QUESTION.........What are you guys using as a seal between the lid and the tub? I assume that some type of bulb seal would be best, but I'm not sure what type to order. If anybody has some insight, or a link I'd love to here it. I mainly want to be sure that it will be durable enough. Also, what type of shocks should I order for the lid? Is there some type of formula to determine what weight class to order? I'm not there yet, but I'm close enough that I need to start figuring it out.
At any rate, I got the end caps straightened out. That was a bit tedious since there isn't much room. Had to do a lot of sanding with little pieces of sandpaper wrapped around a paint stir stick. After doing that, I started on the tailgate and decided that I would be much better off just cutting the sheet metal skin off and replacing it. On Saturday, I cut it off and did the needed grinding and welding.
and today I picked up some sheet metal from a local sheet metal fabricating company and welded it up. Looks soooooo much better than it ever would have, and it has no body filler in it which is good since it will be used as a bench and such.
I've got a couple of these strap hinges on order for the lid. Hopefully, they will be here this week so I can begin figuring out how to attach them.
While I was at it, I ordered this handle to use for the lid.
I also ordered a couple of these draw tight type latches. I initially ordered a couple of nicer one that actually locked shut. Not a security type lock, just a won't come open type lock. Anyway, after I made the order, it gave me a delivery date sometime in the middle of may which is to long to wait. Hopefully, these will be solid and won't pop open unexpectedly.
Except for the lid, I am pretty much done with the welding and grinding. I'm am down to doing the finishing work getting it ready for paint.
QUESTION.........What are you guys using as a seal between the lid and the tub? I assume that some type of bulb seal would be best, but I'm not sure what type to order. If anybody has some insight, or a link I'd love to here it. I mainly want to be sure that it will be durable enough. Also, what type of shocks should I order for the lid? Is there some type of formula to determine what weight class to order? I'm not there yet, but I'm close enough that I need to start figuring it out.
Another update
Needed a way to keep the tailgate from folding all the way down. I fabricated 4 tabs out of 1/4" plate, and Harbor freight had everything else I needed. I like these connectors because they easily come apart so that I can remove the tailgate. The connectors are rated for 900 lbs, so they should be plenty strong enough for anything that sits on the tailgate.
Since I was forced to add the crossmember across the back, I might as well make use of it. Perfect place to put the tabs.
Works good
After that, I tackled the inside of the bed and got it ready for primer, seam sealer and bedliner. Been putting that off, because I knew it was going to be a ton of work. Thank God, that it's done. Didn't spend much time straightening, but I did put some filler on the backsides of all the patches just to make them a little less obvious.
I still had a little energy left, so I welded in 6 of these tie-downs, 3 on each side. Tie-downs just seem necessary, especially for an off road trailer.
Big day today! I finished all the body work on the exterior of the tub. It's finally ready for primer:luxhello:
In my last post, I asked about shocks and a bottom seal for the lid. If anybody has insight on those two items, I could use some advice.
Needed a way to keep the tailgate from folding all the way down. I fabricated 4 tabs out of 1/4" plate, and Harbor freight had everything else I needed. I like these connectors because they easily come apart so that I can remove the tailgate. The connectors are rated for 900 lbs, so they should be plenty strong enough for anything that sits on the tailgate.
Since I was forced to add the crossmember across the back, I might as well make use of it. Perfect place to put the tabs.
Works good
After that, I tackled the inside of the bed and got it ready for primer, seam sealer and bedliner. Been putting that off, because I knew it was going to be a ton of work. Thank God, that it's done. Didn't spend much time straightening, but I did put some filler on the backsides of all the patches just to make them a little less obvious.
I still had a little energy left, so I welded in 6 of these tie-downs, 3 on each side. Tie-downs just seem necessary, especially for an off road trailer.
Big day today! I finished all the body work on the exterior of the tub. It's finally ready for primer:luxhello:
In my last post, I asked about shocks and a bottom seal for the lid. If anybody has insight on those two items, I could use some advice.
Adventure Copan
Adventurer
Looks great! What seam sealer are you using? As for the lid seal most people just use flat black high grade sealing from Home Depot (same stuff you see on tool box lids) and that's likely what we'll use when we get to that point. I like that seal idea mostly cause replacement parts could likely be found anywhere in the globe.
-Daniel Kent
-Daniel Kent
Thanks, I'll check out Home Depot for the weather stripping.
The seam sealer is by Pro Form and is called Firm & Flex rubber based seam sealer. Their product # is 18110. I found it at a local automotive paint supplier and picked it up on their recommendation. It's about $8 a tube verses $16-$25 for the name brand stuff. It's really thick and sticky and was tough to squeeze out, but it laid down nicely and looked nice.
Regarding a seal, I got a bulb seal, part 1120a231, from McMaster for the vertical tailgate stops (similar to yours), and foam, part 8694k145 from McMaster, to apply to the bottom of my lid, which will be 1x1 steel. The lid seal was more foam and less epdm rubber than I was expecting, but I think it will work well. I really like the bulb seal I got for the tailgate. None of these have been installed or are in use yet, so I can't comment on that.
Thanks for posting the tailgate wire details - I'll need something similar.
I haven't acquried gas springs yet for the lid - I'll let you know what I wind up with when I get them.
Thanks for posting the tailgate wire details - I'll need something similar.
I haven't acquried gas springs yet for the lid - I'll let you know what I wind up with when I get them.
Believe it or not, Harbor freight had all of that. I think it cost $45 total.
I will check that out, thanks!
My next question would be, which way should I hinge the lid? Front to back or side to side? I can make arguments for either way.
JKJenn
Adventurer
I am interested in what you go with here because I am going to be at this juncture very soon. With a tailgate, how would you mount it on the side?
I think it will open just fine from the side. The rear lift shock would be the only thing I'd be worried about being in the way, but I can mount that on the cross member that I had to add, so I think it would be out of the way there. I started a new thread with a poll asking what everybody thinks, but unless there is some overwhelming consensus on having it open from the rear, I'm going to have it open from the side.
JKJenn
Adventurer
Yeah, the strut is the hold up for me because I don't have a cross member. I see that AT mounts struts on theoutside and I ahve seen set-ups with one strut, only. I would love to hear they are working out for people.
Without that cross member, I don't know how you would do it. I have seen them mounted on the outside, and I think that would be fine, but it sure would be vulnerable in offroad situations. But even on the outside, would it be out of the way of the tailgate? If so, why wouldn't be out of the way on the inside?
I don't know the answers. I'm hoping that someone who does will chime in with some good advice.