Flat Towing

[Lynn]

If you have a set of old tires and rims in good shape to put on the front, the same size as the rear, you may want to change them for a long haul. Flat towing is hard on front tires.

If you are just using these tires for towing, and won't be engaging the xfer case, why does size matter?

 

[DaveInDenver]

FWIW I would only do that with the OE Aisin locking hubs.

I'm sure that it's possible but I've never seen an Aisin hub fail. I've seen too many Warns fail to consider going that direction.

True, true, true. Aisin hubs or drive plates only!

Also aftermarket hubs apparently do not allow full spine engagement and can break the diff, like your buddy saw. The only nice thing I can think of about using a Warn here is I think they offered a set with a little Allen bolt that you can use to lock the hub into it's engaged position.

 

[ntsqd]

A thot on the lubrication 'pump'. Far be it for me to contradict an expert on yota t/c's such as Marlin, But the 'pump' is a multi-lead Acme screw thread in a carefully shaped housing that is the rear-most bearing carrying casting for the rear axle output shaft of the t/c. That mildly pressurized oil is sent up a center galley in the rear output shaft & dumped into the pilot bearing in the range case.

Which leaves me confused about his quoted recommendation.

Perhaps it's not the pump at issue at all, perhaps it is the lack of splash lubrication from the range case gears turning?

In any case, I'd say that Blake's proven that d/c-ing the rear driveline is the safest method.

And FWIW, while I have successfully backed up the buggy while under tow, it is not easy, has severe limitations on what you can attempt, and it requires a savvy second person to steer the towed vehicle. That second person's job isn't quite as easy as it might sound.
Much, much easier to go with the idea that you aren't going to back-up.

 

[njtaco]

If you are just using these tires for towing, and won't be engaging the xfer case, why does size matter?

It may not...

I guess I pictured 33's in the back and 30's in the front, or vs-vs, leading to a change in caster/camber, leading to premature tire wear or poor stability... sort of a worst-case scenario. I do think they should be the same side-to-side though!

And FWIW, while I have successfully backed up the buggy while under tow, it is not easy. ... ... Much, much easier to go with the idea that you aren't going to back-up.

Told ya someone has done it! LOL And again, just plan like you can't, and stay out of trouble.

 

[ntsqd]

snip.........
Also aftermarket hubs apparently do not allow full spine engagement and can break the diff, like your buddy saw.

[hijack] Detroits rarely survive a rapid unloading of only one side. When a hub or axle shaft fails it's been my observation that it nearly always takes out the Detroit too. If there ever was a reason to go spool instead of a Detroit in a hard core rig, there it is.[/hijack]

Told ya someone has done it! LOL And again, just plan like you can't, and stay out of trouble.

Second THAT motion, who'll carry?
LOL

 

[wesel123]

This is seeming like a bad idea to flat tow my 4Runner. I'm thinking its time for my first jeep, under the assumption that I can flat tow one fo those.

 

[ntsqd]

Rent a tow dolly, and drop the read driveline. Much cheeper than a "Just Empty Every Pocket."

 

[njtaco]

This is seeming like a bad idea to flat tow my 4Runner.

No worse than most other IFS 4x4s...people do it all the time.

I'm thinking its time for my first jeep, under the assumption that I can flat tow one fo those.

IDK if you can flat tow any modern Jeep any easier than your 98, but if you are looking for excuses to buy one, well...

 

[DaveInDenver]

This is seeming like a bad idea to flat tow my 4Runner. I'm thinking its time for my first jeep, under the assumption that I can flat tow one fo those.

How is a Jeep any different? I know the old NP205 case is pretty similar in that you can only flat tow with the rear driveshaft disconnected and the front hubs open. I'd figured that just about anything else is going to be about the same.

 

[Ridgewalker]

IMO I'd rent a car trailer. You will be able to tow it with an RV (if the RV is rated for it). You can back it up just like any trailer. It will not wear anything on your 4Runner. And finally you won't have to buy and install a tow bar and magnetic light system for the tow.

I flat towed my '87 Sami all the time behind my F250 with cabover camper. I did back it up a few times, mostly on dirt roads. Basically you bind everything and side slip the tires (not good on tires). This only worked because the 9,000+ lb F250 and camper vastly out weighed and out powered the 2500 lb Sami. It wasn't a pretty picture, but it worked in my case.

Just think about the trailer.
Good luck on your decision and job.

 

[wesel123]

Wow I thought jeeps are the easiset to tow!!!! Shows you what I dont know.

So you all think the to dolly the front tow wheels and remove the drive shaft and I'll be ok??? That seems to be the concensus.

 

[Scenic WonderRunner]

HiYa .....Wesel!

I dunno why this thread already has 3 pages and nobody has decided what to do!

Here is what I did..........

It's not that hard............Just Do It!



.

 

[frgtwn]

4 wheel trailer

There may be a consensus, but everything outside of a trailer is a compromise. For my money, I like the safety factor, and that no wear and tear is being added to the towed vehicle.

My experience:

LA to Albuquerque (I move friends on occasion.)
LA to Dallas
LA to Nashville
LA to Tucson

Buy a trailer right, make your round trip, sell it for nearly what you paid for it.

I like Kansas, hope you do too.

Dale

 

[ntsqd]

HiYa .....Wesel!

I dunno why this thread already has 3 pages and nobody has decided what to do!

Here is what I did..........

It's not that hard............Just Do It!



.

Ballarat?

 

[Photog]

A thot on the lubrication 'pump'. Far be it for me to contradict an expert on yota t/c's such as Marlin, But the 'pump' is a multi-lead Acme screw thread in a carefully shaped housing that is the rear-most bearing carrying casting for the rear axle output shaft of the t/c. That mildly pressurized oil is sent up a center galley in the rear output shaft & dumped into the pilot bearing in the range case.

Which leaves me confused about his quoted recommendation.

Perhaps it's not the pump at issue at all, perhaps it is the lack of splash lubrication from the range case gears turning?

This is the meat of the matter. Somehow, this is how you solve this problem. If your tow vehicle isn't rated to haul the weight of a vehicle plus the weight of a car trailer, you have to flat-tow. And having to remove and re-install the rear driveshaft, would be a PITA, on a regular basis.

If it is a one-time tow, the driveshaft removal would be fine; but not on a weekley basis (weekend trips).

So, does the T/C oil pump move any oil, if the rear driveshaft is spinning, but not the input shaft?