Flatbed and composite panel build on Dodge 2500

Jeep

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Ahhhhh never thought of Amazon, thanks Ward. I was going to buy from an online fabric store, I need to order soon. If memory serves correct, this was available in hemp too. Thanks for the comment Maninga, swing by any time! Love your build, I have had some dealings with the Styromax guys, really like their stuff. Really like the nice dark red wood on your interior, I will be using a dark wood for some contrast.
Cheers,
Mark.
 

Healeyjet

Explorer
I saw it as a sample bed cover on Amazon and it looks quite nice. For a camper it would be great. Annie likes fabric like that as it is busy if something does spill on it as well as ut's the colour of dirt!
Ward
 

swirvin21

Hard Corps
don't have a specific manufacturer to recommend on the adhesive security laminates because there are soooo many companies now to vet and way to many many are questionable or flat out frauds selling thick window tint. I believe there are great uses for these laminates, but bullet or ballistic resistance is one of the more difficult to attain. I prefer to go with some of the more common 3M type adhesive laminates intended to protect headlamps, bumpers and hoods on vehicles because of their simple installation, ability to hold together a structure in small puncture impacts, protection from long-term damage brought on by small surface abrasions and cuts, but most importantly they are easily removed and replaced due to the adhesive being designed for simple clean up. Not sure what your other project is that it is being considered for, but I have only recommended the high-end laminates like those from ACE http://usace.com/products/
to be used on vintage structural components like windshields and back glass that either are difficult to find replacements for, require custom replacements (cost/time issues), or lack safety requirements needed without. I like using it on glass because the glass can be removed and completely wrapped by the laminate before installation, eliminating the need to tie into the surrounding frame. Many of the cheap or knock-off versions claim the adhesive can withstand complete puncture or even bullet-stopping power without tying into the frame, but every test has shown they either tear prior to adhesive failure or the adhesive fails and the whole sheet pulls through. Happy to help if I can! Really do enjoy this thread, stay up late just so I can read without my 2 yr old pointing and saying "awesome" every 30 seconds!
 

Maninga

Adventurer
Thanks Mark. Really happy with what the Styromax guys did for me too, now just working to make the interior comfortable for us and not a white box.
I'll find out more about what we're doing around Banff in the next couple of months. It certainly looks like you've got some very interesting toys going through your workshop, would be great to come by.

Cheers
Joe
 

Jeep

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Start of the little things

Tight fit, faucet holes laser cut in counter top, makes a nice fit, should stay tight too.

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Sink, for $400 it could have had a little better finish, corners were upturned slightly and I never noticed until after I put the adhesive to it, could have worked it flat pretty easily.

Image 2.jpg

Wallas cook top, this thing is sweet! When closed it is supposed to be capable of heating up to a 26' cabin. Lid has a fan and vent incorporated.

Image 7.jpg

Image 3.jpg

Grey pump got a home, this is what pumps the shower out. Spaces are filling up fast, the under seat area is pretty much 100% consumed with almost no wasted space.

Image 1.jpg
 

Healeyjet

Explorer
Just curious Mark as I have never worked with this type of adhesive. Once you apply it is there no wiping it off and starting over or is it like contact cement that once it contacts it's there for good?
Ward
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Just curious Mark as I have never worked with this type of adhesive. Once you apply it is there no wiping it off and starting over or is it like contact cement that once it contacts it's there for good?
Ward


The polyurethane adhesives like Sika are actually very workable, just severely messy when you have to remove it. Once it cures it remains a little flexible and very strong. I would have pulled the sink, but it was a judgement call, and I didn't feel like cleaning up the mess and starting over. The 2 components stuff is easier to work because it is less viscous, but can also depend on what kind of reaction time you are working with, I have some stuff that gives you 3 minutes to work with, and some that will give you 12 minutes which is a nice working time. They cure much faster and you are guaranteed a cure. Some of the methacrylates we use for specific applications hit 70% strength in 60 seconds, and have a 3500 psi shear strength in 4 hours. We also use 3M tapes, several types. We have tapes that we use to bond doors together prior to powder coating, they cure in the oven at temps up to 475 degrees and are insanely strong. All of the exterior sheeting on my F-650 is taped on. There are a pile of different adhesives and testing the application is the key to the right combination, and prep is very important.
 

dlh62c

Explorer
Wallas cook top, this thing is sweet! When closed it is supposed to be capable of heating up to a 26' cabin. Lid has a fan and vent incorporated.
View attachment 320175

Indeed they are!

How are you routing the exhaust, though the side wall or down though the floor?

Are you plumbing the fuel line directly from the fuel tank or are you going to use their mini refillable fuel cells?

Did you source the stove from ScanMarine?

What are your thoughts regarding heating the living space while on the move using this stove?

Do you think one can heat the cabin at the SAME time one is cooking?

What cycles the heat On/Off or is there just a Hi/Lo intensity setting on the control panel?

Sorry for all the questions; I've been considering this stove myself.
 
Last edited:

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
The polyurethane adhesives like Sika are actually very workable, just severely messy when you have to remove it. Once it cures it remains a little flexible and very strong. I would have pulled the sink, but it was a judgement call, and I didn't feel like cleaning up the mess and starting over. The 2 components stuff is easier to work because it is less viscous, but can also depend on what kind of reaction time you are working with, I have some stuff that gives you 3 minutes to work with, and some that will give you 12 minutes which is a nice working time. They cure much faster and you are guaranteed a cure. Some of the methacrylates we use for specific applications hit 70% strength in 60 seconds, and have a 3500 psi shear strength in 4 hours. We also use 3M tapes, several types. We have tapes that we use to bond doors together prior to powder coating, they cure in the oven at temps up to 475 degrees and are insanely strong. All of the exterior sheeting on my F-650 is taped on. There are a pile of different adhesives and testing the application is the key to the right combination, and prep is very important.

Glove up!
Thanks for testing all of this for your customers--huge kudos!

PS--I didn't see the question asked; could your cabins be easily painted before installation?
 

Rbertalotto

Explorer
Great thread! Very informative....

Since it appears you have lots of experience with adhesives and caulking....do you have an opinion or any experience with 3M 5200. Available in both long and short set time.

I've used it for years on boats and now that I have a travel trailer I've been using it to afix devices and as a sealer/caulk. Expensive at $23 a tube, but never let me down in the marine industry.

Thanks
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Glove up!
Thanks for testing all of this for your customers--huge kudos!

PS--I didn't see the question asked; could your cabins be easily painted before installation?

You bet, and if you don't have a metallic colour we have an aliphatic coating you can use on the exterior, it's self healing, the pinstripes and small scratched disappear in a day or so.
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Great thread! Very informative....

Since it appears you have lots of experience with adhesives and caulking....do you have an opinion or any experience with 3M 5200. Available in both long and short set time.

I've used it for years on boats and now that I have a travel trailer I've been using it to afix devices and as a sealer/caulk. Expensive at $23 a tube, but never let me down in the marine industry.

Thanks

I haven't had personal experience with 5200, but know a few guys that use it successfully, I really like that you can get it UV stabilized. Every 3M product we use has worked flawlessly so I'd anticipate that from the 5200. $23 a tube is cheaper than redoing a project too!
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
You bet, and if you don't have a metallic colour we have an aliphatic coating you can use on the exterior, it's self healing, the pinstripes and small scratched disappear in a day or so.

Oh heck yeah baby!! :)
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Indeed they are!

How are you routing the exhaust, though the side wall or down though the floor?

Are you plumbing the fuel line directly from the fuel tank or are you going to use their mini refillable fuel cells?

Did you source the stove from ScanMarine?

What are your thoughts regarding heating the living space while on the move using this stove?

Do you think one can heat the cabin at the SAME time one is cooking?

What cycles the heat On/Off or is there just a Hi/Lo intensity setting on the control panel?

Sorry for all the questions; I've been considering this stove myself.

Sorry I missed this!

I am going through the side wall, can't go through the floor, and the rear wall creates too much of a negative pressure on the exhaust side and will kill the burn. I'm using the 10 litre tank, CSA certification helps in my case, there is a thermostat to control the unit. It is either in cook mode or heat mode, I imagine you will get some heat off the cooking process. Wallas designs the unit to heat on the move, placement of the intake/exhaust is critical as they do not like high speed air to affect the unit too much, as in a rear wall where there is a big negative pressure area at speed. I will be testing the unit pretty good and will provide some real world cold weather feedback.

We are a Wallas dealer.

Thanks,
Mark.
 

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