silvrzuki77
explorer
I would go bigger than 10 gallons if you can
Fleetwood Neon Modified for off road
- Thread starter MountainD
- Start date
MountainD
Adventurer
I wouldn't coat it--see post (12) above---talks about the Weyerhaeuser Strucurwood and explains why you don't want to coat it. I am leaving mine bare, at least for now, as you won't be able to go back...
I just had a change of direction on the axle situation and officially started accumulated the materials. I decided that instead of buying a new Dexter axle with electric brakes and buying wheel adapters to run the Rover pattern (which are $200 for the pair due to the 5x6.5 bolt pattern) I will make my axles. I had previously started that route when I was going to build a more military style trailer (before finding the Neon) so I had already cut a couple rover hubs off an axle at a pull your parts place. Last night I pulled the trigger on a "new" take off CARLISLE Hydrastar 1200 PSI Electric / Hydraulic Actuator #HBA-12 so I will go with the Rover disc brake set up. Got it for $300 which is pretty cheap, all things being equal. I'll pick up a pair of calipers from my UPull parts place ($14/ea) and then run new brake line. My buddy has access to a big lathe so we will turn the hubs and fit some 3" DOM tubing for the axle.
Next on my purchase list is the DOM tube for the axle and find some springs (OME for Samurai actual Samurai spings?--open to suggestions). When I see a good spell of weather coming I will get my frame steel and weld that up--I don't expect that to take too long as I am pretty experienced with steel but I do have to do it outside so I don't want to freeze my *** off. And get the Lock and Roll hitch, too. Looking forward to this build!
I am also going to reinforce the pop-up top and all the joints on the trailer. I'll be adding two more latches for the top to prevent shifting as well as reinforcing all the corners--I haven't figured out exactly how I am going to do that, but I am thinking to run angle iron from the new frame straight up the corners and put new rails around the openings but I am worried about adding too much weight. I might look into aluminum and then think about how to attach the aluminum to the frame with enough rigidity to matter.... Very open to suggestions on reinforcing the pop-up for on the trail besides doing the new frame.
calicamper
Expedition Leader
I was thinking the same thing. I've seen people use the rubber mat material you lay under bath tubs to protect ply trailer bottoms. You can get it at Home Depot buy by the foot not sure what they used to bond it probably something like Westmarine 3200- or 4200 that stays flexible but tougher than snot. Do not use 5200 pretty sure they use that stuff to hold the booster rockets on the Space Shuttle. You will never get it off if you ever need to make a repair.
silvrzuki77
explorer
I highly recommend the samurai springs, but go with trail-gear.com with their 3" springs. Remember the front are heavier sprung versus the rear. I can remember which I used on my teardrop. Worked great!
MountainD
Adventurer
Thanks--I will check those springs out.
I just received the hydraulic over electric brake actuator and starting thinking how I could add a parking brake. I found these e-brakes/parking brakes that drifters use that are hydraulic and I am 99% sure I can add one in line between the actuator and the disc brakes. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Hyd...bs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=14J64VZCWED04MK4586N Has anyone ever done this? Seems like a pretty straight forward way to add a parking brake...
I just received the hydraulic over electric brake actuator and starting thinking how I could add a parking brake. I found these e-brakes/parking brakes that drifters use that are hydraulic and I am 99% sure I can add one in line between the actuator and the disc brakes. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Hyd...bs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=14J64VZCWED04MK4586N Has anyone ever done this? Seems like a pretty straight forward way to add a parking brake...
BADDANDY
Adventurer
Front Sami springs are shorter and flatter than rears. That's what I'm looking at doing in the future, plus new hangers and shackles. I can't find anything used around here.
My overall plan is to mount 235 or 245/75/15 MT or AT tires on 7X15 rims with a spring over. Then just go offroad camping.
As time allows, I plan on making a Max Coupler clone articulating hitch. I found a forum that shows how to make one for $50. I'm still figuring how I want to extend the front frame 12", then Sami suspension, water system and maybe new/different heating system.
This what I did yesterday; made hole, welded on bracket, and installed 7 pin plug, harness and controller.
My overall plan is to mount 235 or 245/75/15 MT or AT tires on 7X15 rims with a spring over. Then just go offroad camping.
As time allows, I plan on making a Max Coupler clone articulating hitch. I found a forum that shows how to make one for $50. I'm still figuring how I want to extend the front frame 12", then Sami suspension, water system and maybe new/different heating system.
This what I did yesterday; made hole, welded on bracket, and installed 7 pin plug, harness and controller.
Attachments
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SCARDUP
Observer
Just wondering if you've thought about a roof rack or know someone that has??? I see your neon is missing the black trim (just like me) that other evolution owners have attached their roof racks to. I just picked up a cobalt to tow behind my wrangler and I need to get a roof basket on it soon. No one on the popup forums has been able to help either. Thanks for the ideas on the lift. That's my second project and one that I think will be much easier then the rack considering I'm much more comfortable with suspension mods then I am with body work.
BADDANDY
Adventurer
After spring shopping today, I'm not sure if I'll SOA the stock springs (26"), go to eye-to-eye stock replacements (26") SOA, or get Sami (35.5") front stock, 1.5", or 3" lift springs. The Sami front springs will fit on the 4" lift blocks, the rear Samis are too long. New stock Samis are $140, lifted start at $270. The problem with stock eye-to-eye are I might lose lift cause I'm not gonna shackle to the current slider block. The problem with the Samis are what lift springs I would need to not lose lift as I'm not gonna shackle to the current slider block either. I did buy new spring pads for the SOA today and decided on 235/75/15 ATs on 15X7 wheels with a 3" backspace.
So tomorrow, I might go buy wheels and tires and do the SOA.
Rack pic;
So tomorrow, I might go buy wheels and tires and do the SOA.
Rack pic;
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MountainD
Adventurer
Parts are coming in! I'm gonna use 31" C-BAL jacks at each corner--they are heavier than I thought. Man, weight adds up quick. I also got the electric-over-hydraulic brake actuator to power the rover brakes and I got a lockable drifting brake (hydraulic) to go downstream of the actuator between it and the calipers so I'll have a parking brake. I haven't seen this done yet, but I don't know why it wont work, so I am excited to at least try! Still designing the frame and taking another look at it to see how to save weight...
