Foam/composite panel question(s)

seuadr

New member
Hi all, long time listener, first time caller.

I'm not exactly the target audience here - i'm not looking to overland specifically but, you folks seem to put a lot more thought into your builds than most sites, and have far more information about DIY builds using foam core composites so i thought you were probably a good place to get some questions answered.

I'm looking to build a motorhome off a cab/chassis frame using primarily foam core composites - probably something like 1" foam with FRP and glass. Thinking maybe luan or ply on the inside both for the "look" and screw retention, but of course that'll add to weight but also allow for easy additional modifications/additions in the future without having to glass something up so :shrugs: decisions, decisions, right? :D

The reason i'm building is for weight and aerodynamics - so i plan on using a stitch and glue method to combine the unique shapes together. I have this fantasy of incorporating mild hybrid 48 or 72v features as well, essentially like torque assist - normally, the gains wouldn't seem worth the effort, because the extra weight of the batteries, but if i'm going to have a big house battery anyhow (which i plan on) then it seems to make sense to investigate that.

of course that opens the whole can of worms on controllers, how to approach it, cost, etc. so who knows how that'll actually shake out.

now, the loose plan right now is to get a late 70's early 80's cab/chassis of a cargo van, transplant a more efficient powerplant (possibly the good ole 4BT with a 6 speed OD of some sort and appropriately geared rear end) and build out the motorhome embracing aerodynamics (within reason) with the main shell being composite exterior and probably interior as well. i plan on essentially making the frame of the chassis a flatbed and i'm assuming that i can't get away with no framing - so, probably some kind of aluminum framing in addition to the fiberglass panels. (or possibly building ribs into sections of the panels?

i've seen a number of builds on here that seem to take a similar approach, but, mostly truck campers, so, I'm not sure how much of a difference a motorhome shell will make. i'm assuming framing will be needed at the very least around heavy load areas, like the holding tanks and batteries (which i hope to mount between frame rails and cover with a belly pan)

anyways, that is probably enough rambling for a first post so - thanks for having me!
 

opp1

Member
just a suggestion some of the fiberglass that you buy that's already made it doesn't bond to other wet lay up . so make sure they're compatible .All so do a small panel to play with . You will be surprise how strong they are
 

seuadr

New member
just a suggestion some of the fiberglass that you buy that's already made it doesn't bond to other wet lay up
yeah - i saw a suggestion to use biaxial cloth because it is matt on one side and woven on the other so i can probably get away with a single layer and a gel coat but, i have no idea if that is actually good advice (it sounds good? :D)
 

opp1

Member
I was talking premade skins. more and more plastic is coming out . Yes anything with woven
is stronger than just mat with woven you have a longer grid. with mat maybe a 2'' grid.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
i'm building is for weight and aerodynamics - so i plan on using a stitch and glue method to combine the unique shapes together. I have this fantasy of incorporating mild hybrid 48 or 72v features as well, essentially like torque assist - normally, the gains wouldn't seem worth the effort, because the extra weight of the batteries, but if i'm going to have a big house battery anyhow (which i plan on) then it seems to make sense
you had me here.... then you say you'll use an ancient diesel..... why not go full electric..... full roof solar..... separate house, driveline systems...... maybe throw in a super efficient high output gas genset for the hybrid part..... but make it a separate fully self contained RV Genset.

ditch the silly diesel engine part which will drain yer bank account. FOCUS !!!! Go pure electric or go pure ICE...... hybrids are expensive abortions. Take the weight savings and add MORE batteries.

If you are focusing on aerodynamics hopefully you will not add anything like racks, maxtracks, canoes, bikes, winch, lightbars outside that aerodynamic shell.

Think....

R.29fe5f5c50827e01eb0de880a06edde2.jpeg
 
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seuadr

New member
pure electric or go pure ICE...... hybrids are expensive abortions.
Parallel integrated assist motors aren't particularly expensive, motor can be had for 5-600 dollars and controller for another 2-300 dollars.

Like the 1st couple generations of the honda insight. Bolted right between the flywheel and the transmission and added an extra 30-40hp during lower speed acceleration where fuel efficiency is lowest.

They basically lop the peak gas usage off during hard acceleration. They don't integrate in any way with the ICE. The expensive bit is the battery pack(s), but if i am going to be purchasing them anyhow...

That said it looks like the best bang for buck seems to be aerodynamic modifications, because they are pretty inexpensive and very DIY friendly. A reduction of 20% in drag van net a 10% increase in fuel efficiency and can be accomplished with a couple hundred bucks and some hand tools.

I was surprised at how much opportunity aerodynamic *looking* vehicles have (turns out you can make a fairly aerodynamic brick..)

As far as why not all electric - easy: range,cost and convenience.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Parallel integrated assist motors aren't particularly expensive, motor can be had for 5-600 dollars and controller for another 2-300 dollars.

Like the 1st couple generations of the honda insight. Bolted right between the flywheel and the transmission and added an extra 30-40hp during lower speed acceleration where fuel efficiency is lowest.

They basically lop the peak gas usage off during hard acceleration. They don't integrate in any way with the ICE. The expensive bit is the battery pack(s), but if i am going to be purchasing them anyhow...

That said it looks like the best bang for buck seems to be aerodynamic modifications, because they are pretty inexpensive and very DIY friendly. A reduction of 20% in drag van net a 10% increase in fuel efficiency and can be accomplished with a couple hundred bucks and some hand tools.

I was surprised at how much opportunity aerodynamic *looking* vehicles have (turns out you can make a fairly aerodynamic brick..)

As far as why not all electric - easy: range,cost and convenience.
absolutely ^^^ we are not there yet.

but adding an electric boost for a grand plus the weight.... I still say pick one or the other
 

FN4PAPA

Member
I would just buy the panels... at least that is what I did... got NidaPlast panels from Boatbuildercentral.com and they cost about $270 for a 4x8x 1/2" finished on both sides... they look great and are incredibly strong... very happy with them...
 

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rruff

Explorer
yeah - i saw a suggestion to use biaxial cloth because it is matt on one side and woven on the other so i can probably get away with a single layer and a gel coat but, i have no idea if that is actually good advice (it sounds good? :D)

I like your idea of "stitch and glue style", or at least using curved panels. It would be tough to glue on skins with that method though. At least I think it would be.

I envisioned something similar only with wet layup. Use fairly thin foam like 1" or less, fiberglass the inner side of the panels, then bend and assemble your shell around some wood forms. Lastly fill all the gaps and fiberglass the exterior.

You can incorporate structure embeded in the foam so long as it's perpendicular to the curve. I think pultruded fiberglass square tube would be your best bet.

Have you made any progress on this?
 

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