brussum
Adventurer
3.5 tons in a one ton truck sounds...um...ill-advised. I wouldn't make doing that a habit, even with your airbags. A level load doesn't mean it's a safe load.
Ford 250 v 350 payload and suspension quesitons
- Thread starter mikemcgl
- Start date
3.5 tons in a one ton truck sounds...um...ill-advised. I wouldn't make doing that a habit, even with your airbags. A level load doesn't mean it's a safe load.
mikemcgl
Member
Adding 20 inch tires and steel wheels
Thanks for tip about the weak link being the tires. I've decide on 20 inch tires and steel rims. I'll use the factory set up for every day driving and have the offroad steel rims with the offroad properly rated tires for when I use the camper.
The weight of the camper is really 2,800 base dry and then with the add ons and wet, 500 extra, then people and cargo And you get to 4,000 pretty quick.
Thanks for tip about the weak link being the tires. I've decide on 20 inch tires and steel rims. I'll use the factory set up for every day driving and have the offroad steel rims with the offroad properly rated tires for when I use the camper.
The weight of the camper is really 2,800 base dry and then with the add ons and wet, 500 extra, then people and cargo And you get to 4,000 pretty quick.
greasyfingers
New member
BULIWYF: All Ford Super duties from early 1999 and up have hydro assist brakes. You are thinking about the OBS trucks. What happened to you is a de-tread which is caused from improper inflation or a tire defect and nearly every vehicle will be tough to handle if that occurs. I agree that if the OP tows/hauls often a DRW is best especially with stability, but if he offroads often it can be a real pain when debris gets stuck between the tires. Tires aren't a weak link as long as you have properly rated tires ie E rated tires you are G2G. I sugest you look at Fords website and look at their GVWR and GCVWR and talk to a knowledgeable Ford Rep. Unfortunately these forums are full of misinformation that can really bite you in the rear on a $65,000+ investment. To tell you the truth I am totally jealous of the new Super Duties, I'd kill for one!
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Never say "never" or "allways" with Fords. They allways seem to find a batch of old dusty axles or brake boosters sitting in a crate hidden in the corner of the factory in the middle of a production run. "Hey let's use these!"
6.7's have a vacuum pump on the engine. It's used for the EGR and wastegate I believe. I'd assume that there are still some AC controls in the dash that possibly run on vacuum still as well.
I'm scheduled to test drive a used 2008 F250 XL Ex Cab, Longbed, 4x4 towards the end of this week. If it isn't sold by the time it's my turn to test drive, it's mine. I'll take a look at the booster. I prefer the hydroboost, but really have no problems with vac boost as long as the vacuum pump is replaced every 90k miles.
2011 F250 w vac boost brakes and the diesel 6.7:
Also keep in mind that Fords spec books and parts manuals are far from gospel. Remember the 37 spline 10.5" rear end axles that are supposed to exist?
2007 brakes spec list (copy/paste):
Front 13.66-inch disc
Rear 13.39-inch disc
Assist type Vacuum (F-250/F-350 single-rear-wheel gas engines) / hydro-boost (F-250/F-350 single-rear-wheel diesel engine, F-350 dual-rear-wheel), ABS
6.7's have a vacuum pump on the engine. It's used for the EGR and wastegate I believe. I'd assume that there are still some AC controls in the dash that possibly run on vacuum still as well.
I'm scheduled to test drive a used 2008 F250 XL Ex Cab, Longbed, 4x4 towards the end of this week. If it isn't sold by the time it's my turn to test drive, it's mine. I'll take a look at the booster. I prefer the hydroboost, but really have no problems with vac boost as long as the vacuum pump is replaced every 90k miles.
2011 F250 w vac boost brakes and the diesel 6.7:
Also keep in mind that Fords spec books and parts manuals are far from gospel. Remember the 37 spline 10.5" rear end axles that are supposed to exist?
2007 brakes spec list (copy/paste):
Front 13.66-inch disc
Rear 13.39-inch disc
Assist type Vacuum (F-250/F-350 single-rear-wheel gas engines) / hydro-boost (F-250/F-350 single-rear-wheel diesel engine, F-350 dual-rear-wheel), ABS
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Mountainhound
Explorer
Don't have that truck anymore it burnt febuary 24th, and didn't make a habit of it but did do it a few times. In truth though the truck handeled it fine but I knew it was there.
One other thing to consider with that heavy of a camper are you going to be traveling long distances and on the interstate? If so I would go dually because you will be way overweight.
Mad duo what tires are you running at only 60 psi? I know my load range E tires where at 80psi. I prefer the stiffer ride much safer with that weight.
Mtnhound-I am running 285/70/17 BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM2 tires. Load range of D, can't recall the weight rating, but know its enough for my AF 811. Max tire pressure is 65. I am waiting for these to wear out, which shouldn't be too long and am looking for a suitable replacement in the E rating. I still need a good mud tire and seeing as the camper is only on a few weeks a year, i need to go with a tire that will cover my truck's other duties the rest of the year. I may look at doing what the OP was considering and running two sets or rims/tires, but that defeats the whole purpose of my, load it and go, attitude.
Mtnhound-I am running 285/70/17 BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM2 tires. Load range of D, can't recall the weight rating, but know its enough for my AF 811. Max tire pressure is 65. I am waiting for these to wear out, which shouldn't be too long and am looking for a suitable replacement in the E rating. I still need a good mud tire and seeing as the camper is only on a few weeks a year, i need to go with a tire that will cover my truck's other duties the rest of the year. I may look at doing what the OP was considering and running two sets or rims/tires, but that defeats the whole purpose of my, load it and go, attitude.
alpinetrout
New member
As an owner of a 2011 F250 diesel, I'd vote with those recommending the F350 DRW. It's the only way to be safe and legal with a big camper. I bought mine primarily for towing my boat and camping in the back inside my Leer canopy, and have no intention of getting a camper or 5th wheel, otherwise I would have gone for the heavier duty model.
Here are the specs for my truck:
Wheelbase: 141.8"
Axle Ratio: 3.55L
Tire Size: LT275/65R20E
GVWR: 10,000LB
GCWR: 23,500LB
Front GAWR: 5,200LB
Rear GAWR: 6,100LB
Payload: 2,357LB
Towing Capacity: 14,000LB
5th Wheel Capacity: 16,000LB
Here are the specs for my truck:
Wheelbase: 141.8"
Axle Ratio: 3.55L
Tire Size: LT275/65R20E
GVWR: 10,000LB
GCWR: 23,500LB
Front GAWR: 5,200LB
Rear GAWR: 6,100LB
Payload: 2,357LB
Towing Capacity: 14,000LB
5th Wheel Capacity: 16,000LB
mikemcgl
Member
Thanks again for the advice. I'm now leaning towards just geetting a lighter camper, some kind of pop up, because there is too much aggravation in jumping through all those hoops just to use the camper a few weeks a year.
So it will probably be a F250 with a FWC type camper.
I really just want to get out and ride my bike and the slid in was my way off getting into the boonies.
Went to Pinos Mt in CA yesterday. Picture below
So it will probably be a F250 with a FWC type camper.
I really just want to get out and ride my bike and the slid in was my way off getting into the boonies.
Went to Pinos Mt in CA yesterday. Picture below
superdutyjeff
New member
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
While F-series pickups can certainly haul WAY beyond their max GVWR. It is ill advised for many legal reasons. And I would never do it for long distance trips.
Ive hauled more than 4k lbs in my '96 F250, a few times
Last time was doing the roof on our house.
How much does 24 square of old 3-tab shingles weigh??
Exactly 4200 lbs.... :ylsmoke:
The rear wasnt even on the bump-stops yet :snorkel:
Ive hauled more than 4k lbs in my '96 F250, a few times
Last time was doing the roof on our house.
How much does 24 square of old 3-tab shingles weigh??
Exactly 4200 lbs.... :ylsmoke:
The rear wasnt even on the bump-stops yet :snorkel:
Mountainhound
Explorer
Not really true. When I bought my 04 350 I got it cheaper than I could get a 250. Been doing some looking again becuase I may be getting another here in next couple months and the same holds true. http://www.truckpaper.com/list/list.aspx?pg=2&ETID=1&PCID=2000711535&bcatid=27&dlr=1&Pref=0&Thumbs=1
BCHauler
Adventurer
Actually, superdutyjeff is correct. The original poster says he wants to buy new, and when setup the same way (ie. same options) the 350 costs more. The 350 is rated for more but the difference is the number of leafs and the size of the axle block. On a Ford srw, the difference becomes legality, not capability.