Frame and Tub Paining Questions

[rubicon789]

Ok, I have searched but haven't found what i am looking for. I am looking for some more recent advice. As you can see in my previous posts, I am redoing my M416 so I have a few questions regarding painting choices.

Frame:
Powder-coat the frame (cost 200-300)
What other choices are there that will really hold up for years and years? I think POR isn't the best choice. Was thinking of the Eastwood Chassis Kit primer and Gloss black ($60)
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gloss-extreme-chassis-restoration-kit-w-primer.html

Tub:
Professional paint - Cost TBD
Eastwood Primer Epoxy $25 per can (not sure how much i need yet maybe 4-5 cans) So $100 for Primer
http://www.eastwood.com/2k-areospray-epoxy-primer-black.html

Still thinking about the Body paint, can you paint over epoxy with kind of paint?

Then Bedliner:
Linex and Rhino i can assume will be 400-500
What DIY bedliners actually hold up well? I am planning to do the tub rail and interior when i do line it.

Thoughts?

DIY or Professional?

 

[brian90744]

fixing a trailer

It's a 45 year old trailer. Don't disassemble, just have the frame blasted and paint with POR15. Next take the tube and have that blasted. Buy a cheap spray gun from harbor freight, and order 1 qt of expory primer for the tub and 1/2 gallon of auto paint to finish the tub. buy gallon bed liner kit from pep boys. then assemble with new grade 5 nuts and bolts. remember it's a TRAILER.
Of cause if you have 2 grand to spend sit home and have the Professionals do it for you. Just my FYI=brian

 

[rubicon789]

Brian, I am onboard with what you are saying... Just looking for products to use. I don't have 2k sitting around .
I do however have kids sitting around

Just looking for products and reviews. Most of what I search is.... I used xyz but there aren't many followers of how xyz has held up.

 

[whatevah]

I went with Chassis Saver and Monstaliner for my trailer build. Currently, only the Chassis Saver has been applied (similar to POR15 but supposedly a bit stronger/better). So far, I'm happy with it. I used around a pint on my trailer frame to make two thick coats. Just like POR15 it'll fade with sun exposure, so you'll want to top-coat it with some sort of paint. I brushed it on, but it smoothed out beautifully. As for a bedliner, the Jeep guys seem to be moving toward Monstaliner since it's UV-safe and doesn't have grit that'll fall out (or tear up your skin if you rub it). It gets its texture from the roller as you apply it. I'm just using the regular black, but you can get it in various colors and even tint it yoursef. A few guys in my area have it in their Jeeps and recommend it.

I'd recommend DIY for the frame and bedliner, for the exterior it depends on your intentions... if it's a resto/mod rebuild then it might be worth a few bucks for a professional exterior paint job. If not, then rattle-can... prep work and proper technique are key. Light coats, light coats!

 

[rubicon789]

Thanks whatevah

It's not a resto, just a trailer that I want to last for a bunch more years. I'll check the monstaliner out. The epoxy paint is supposed to be awesome though. I think it will seal in everything really well.

I am thinking the diy route for everything. Plan to get it blasted this weekend and then move on with priming. Want to order that at the very least ASAP! Thanks

 

[brian90744]

I brought my paint/primers from www.tcpglobal.com, and cost was $150 shipped to my home. DIY and it will last for years, I'm sure your kid will like it. As for bed liners I was shocked by Xliner=$400. and would sand blast inside only. That why I went to Pep-Boys=$50. Gallon and a have 1/2 left over.= just my FYI

 

[two]

pro15 bonds to rust it is a waste of money if there no rust. I go fishing With a power coat shop owner. Said power is the worst thing for off road will let the metal rust through and not show. Will get hair line cracks and rust .Paint is easy to fix

 

[jscherb]

Four years ago I modified an existing frame for a trailer I was building. The metal had some surface rust, but generally was in pretty good condition. I used SEM Rust Shield, which is a two-part catalyzed finish designed to be applied directly over metal with no primer. (http://www.semproducts.com/rust-and-corrosion-rust-coatings/rust-shieldtm). I applied it with a 4" roller, and a brush for the tight spots. It's got excellent flow-out so it doesn't look rolled/brushed when it's cured. It cured to a very hard, chip-resistant finish. I'm very happy with it, and four years later it looks pretty much like the day I applied it. This photo was taken right after the frame was painted:

Here's a shot of the frame under construction, it's mostly used metal although there rear crossmember is a e-coated Jeep frame rear crossmember.

On a different project a year later, I was building a replica military trailer in fiberglass. I primed the tub with epoxy primer (PPG Omni epoxy primer), and used a two-part urethane in olive drab for the exterior. I did the interior with U-Pol Raptor tintable bed liner, which I tinted to match the urethane olive drab on the outside of the tub.

I've been very happy with Raptor, the bed of my Wrangler pickup was done in color-matched Raptor seven years ago and it's held up great.

The frame for the military trailer is a modified Harbor Freight frame. Obviously HF bright red wouldn't do, so I primed the frame with epoxy primer, followed by the same two-part urethane olive drab. The urethane olive drab is Hot Rod Flatz from TCP Global, I've been very happy with that as well (http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive...CfO3pHpkMNReLRl5PxW9hco8-P4OVqgkiHhoCihfw_wcB).

 

[brian90744]

Other things you may do while painting

BTW= I would do a tongue extension while you have it apart. just FYI=brian

 

[rubicon789]

Do I really need to? What did you use, some box and then cut it 58" long and notch out for the Pintle bolt?

 

[brian90744]

I used 2 pcs 2"x3" .125 wall 60" long and with some cutting ended with 58" its simple upgrade for towing. If you use the M416 tub the front drain needs to be cut out and a 2"x2"patch added.

Do I really need to? What did you use, some box and then cut it 58" long and notch out for the Pintle bolt?

 

[rubicon789]

Thanks, ill call and get prices tomorrow on the metal.

I have a question regarding painting with epoxy. I assume I spray the epoxy primer and hit it a second time within approx 30 mins?

Then do I wait another 30 minutes and apply the top coat? Does it have to be an epoxy?

 

[jscherb]

Thanks, ill call and get prices tomorrow on the metal.

I have a question regarding painting with epoxy. I assume I spray the epoxy primer and hit it a second time within approx 30 mins?

Then do I wait another 30 minutes and apply the top coat? Does it have to be an epoxy?

Epoxy primer can be sprayed, brushed or rolled, the best finish happens with spraying but I often brush or roll it if I'm not trying to achieve an automotive-quality gloss finish as the end result.

Subsequent coats of epoxy can be sprayed as soon as the prior coat "flashes", which usually is about 10-12 minutes and can be seen as a dulling or drying of the surface. Flashing (evaporation of the solvents) would take a bit longer if it's brushed or rolled. Check the instructions for your particular epoxy, most say subsequent coats (including top coats) can be done up to 24 or 36 hours after the prior coat, and after that time period the surface should be scuffed before applying another coat.

Epoxy is a good base coat for most paints and even body filler. You don't need to follow an epoxy primer with an epoxy topcoat, you can use an automotive base/clear, an automotive 2k urethane (like the Hot Rod Flatz olive drab I used), or an enamel.

Happy to answer any other questions you might have along the way.

 

[brian90744]

Like above =Epoxy is a good base coat for most paints and even body filler. You don't need to follow an epoxy primer with an epoxy topcoat, you can use an automotive base/clear, an automotive 2k urethane. I put my top coat on a couple of days later, I also pick up the spray gun for $10.00 from harbor freight. You will need Acetone to clean the gun after each use. Once you start it get easier, Ck (you-tube) for tips. =brian

 

[rubicon789]

cool.. thanks guys.