From Build To Adventuring... A 1950 Dodge B2B Pickup Story
- Thread starter GoldiesGarage
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GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
Correct. We did this for the future steering linkage clearances.
GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
Now that we have the engine where we want it. It was time to give this 2WD transmission the ability to power both the front and rear axle. Not knowing very much in this category we went with the tried & true (So we read) Divorced NP205 with driver side drop (Ford Transfer Case). The plan is to have a short intermediate shaft and then 2 regular driveshafts for the front and rear axle.
We built our transfer case mounts from scratch. Some tubing, 4 big bolts, Large angle steel, and a set of bushings. We used a control arm type method. So far no problems.
We used JB Fab shifters. Not sure if it's the T-Case or shifter or the shifter alignment but sometime it works great then sometimes it doesn't want to shift at all.
We had to cut through the factory Dodge cross member since the driveshaft wanted the space. We bought a large diameter pipe/tube cut it and bridged the two pieces back together.
One positive aspect about having the Divorced T-Case is that we took advantage of being able to lower the t-case compared to it married to the Trans. So we have way better driveshafts angles. With an UP there is a down which came into play with the Custom Long Arms Suspension, But that's a future post...
We built our transfer case mounts from scratch. Some tubing, 4 big bolts, Large angle steel, and a set of bushings. We used a control arm type method. So far no problems.
We used JB Fab shifters. Not sure if it's the T-Case or shifter or the shifter alignment but sometime it works great then sometimes it doesn't want to shift at all.
We had to cut through the factory Dodge cross member since the driveshaft wanted the space. We bought a large diameter pipe/tube cut it and bridged the two pieces back together.
One positive aspect about having the Divorced T-Case is that we took advantage of being able to lower the t-case compared to it married to the Trans. So we have way better driveshafts angles. With an UP there is a down which came into play with the Custom Long Arms Suspension, But that's a future post...
GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
Before we bolt the cab on we had to give it some love.
The toe board is made up of 2 pieces and we welded them in. After we looked at it from the inside of the cab, we realized we put them on backwards...Oh well.
There were some holes in the floor. What we did was welded some more 1/8 diamond plate steel to the underside of the floor. It did two things, sealed the floor and added some strength. We painted it all with POR-15.
The toe board is made up of 2 pieces and we welded them in. After we looked at it from the inside of the cab, we realized we put them on backwards...Oh well.
There were some holes in the floor. What we did was welded some more 1/8 diamond plate steel to the underside of the floor. It did two things, sealed the floor and added some strength. We painted it all with POR-15.
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GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
Thanks, here are some more progress pictures.
Diamond plate was added for floor strength. We didn't want to patch the rust in the floor. When in the cab, you can't even tell there is diamond plate on the other side. As we intended.
Dealing with the last of the fire damage, we tackle the AAM 9.25 Front Axle.
Replaces the U-Joints, the Hubs, and all the Ball Joints. We needed more torque for the ball joints. We had to add a 4 foot piece of tubing on the end of the ratchet.
Ish is keeping the axle from rotating and jumping off the Jack stands. While I use all my might to get this thing seated.
All good again.
GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
Now for everyone's favorite part... WIRING...
Did I mention this is our 1st Off-Road build and our1st time playing with Fuel Injection or anything with ECUs/computers.
With the research I have done, I know you have to turn off VATS. We bought the HP tuners software to delete VATS and some other codes we will not need.
We decided to buy a stand alone wiring harness from Speartech. Since we are just getting our feet wet in this endeavor.
Besides wiring everything up right, I think the second hardest thing is making a clean and functional install. I will say, future Eli is not happy with the install.
Did I mention this is our 1st Off-Road build and our1st time playing with Fuel Injection or anything with ECUs/computers.
With the research I have done, I know you have to turn off VATS. We bought the HP tuners software to delete VATS and some other codes we will not need.
We decided to buy a stand alone wiring harness from Speartech. Since we are just getting our feet wet in this endeavor.
Besides wiring everything up right, I think the second hardest thing is making a clean and functional install. I will say, future Eli is not happy with the install.
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
Seems kinda odd but Deboss garage on YouTube did the same thing with his Duramax into a 60’s Chevy build.
ExpoMike
Well-known member
Even Ford Explorers from the late 90's to mid 00's have the engine offset to the passenger side a little. Also common in vans to allow more footwell room for pedals.
ITTOG
Well-known member
GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
I personally do not understand why it is a big deal having the engine to one side or the other versus the center. I know, centered would be ideal. It comes down to what is most important for occupying the given space. For me, the Steering is more important than the engine for the driver side space due to it being in a fixed position & limited shaft angles. So the engine had to be fitted where it could. Am I missing something that I should be aware of?
ITTOG
Well-known member
To be honest it probably doesn't. It is just unique. It probably matters about as much as a sideways engine and front wheel drive. I was just taking a dig at the Ford exploder. Sorry if you took my comment personal. That wasn't intended.
GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
I'm a logical type person. With comments like "odd" I was trying to figure out if future problems could occur. Personally, I couldn't think of one besides passenger header clearances. Thought, you guys knew something I didn't. We are not the first people to do something like this so if you have some knowledge to drop, please post it. I love learning new things I can use on other builds. This is build # 2 for us and this 1950 Dodge B2B is LEAPS & BOUNDS better then build # 1.
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GoldiesGarage
Well-known member
With the front axle rebuilt and installed, we needed to be able to stop this pig. Brake lines are next on the list. We put the truck on my trailer so we could measure for all the brake lines once. Not so far away is a small shop F & L hose. They had everything we needed. My brother measured out 36 inches of Stainless steel lines would be needed per side on the front. We also bought some of the copper alloy brake lines. Got all the lines measured and cut. I had the guy do all the flaring. I hate doing the flaring with the cheap auto parts store flaring kit. As you can see we did all the work in the parking lot.
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