FUGGLY

[nnamssorxela]

Crispy - I think you'll be fine (and maybe better) with the mitsu fluid.

I'll quit cluttering up your thread, but my suggestion is that when you reflow/resolder the little resistor for the temp gauge, you hit the identical resistor for the fuel gauge as well. This will make sense once you find the thread that details the fix and open up your cluster.

 

[CrispyCracker]

Good to know that I can address both resistors in one shot. I'll study up on the suggested approach and tackle it within a week or so. I appreciate the tip.

 

[normal_dave]

You're well down the path by now, but I ran across this post while helping somebody else research, and it would have come in handy in your purchase decision, might as well repost it here:
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/166001-So-is-the-gen-III-really-that-good

 

[Michael Brown]

You are correct in using the OEM fluid for your LSD diff. The redline fluid will not work with the hybrid system. Mitsubishi's Hybrid LSD has a torsen style gear system, but uses a small clutch pack as well. Gear systems are stronger than clutches, but they need some torque on both wheels to function. If one wheel lifts, the gears do not bind and freely spin until some torque is applied, usually by a hand brake. To compensate for this, a small clutch system was added to provide this small amount of torque in free-wheel so the gears can then engage.

Their L200 page explains this as well. http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/en/showroom/l200/performance/
Hybrid LSD
The hybrid-type Limited Slip Differential combines torque-sensing helical gears with speed-sensing viscous coupling to maintain excellent traction on slippery and rugged surfaces. An internal clutch escape mechanism also prevents loss of torque if a wheel starts spinning. Hybrid LSD works with ABS to enhance driving safety.

The Mitsubishi LSD 90 oil has friction additives for the clutch pack to help it engage when needed. Standard gear oils will need a friction modifier, but the OEM is best. I have been using it in my rear diff for 40k miles.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

One of my favorite things about the Montero is that folks have no idea what it is...so taking away all visual clues makes it even more fun.

I did the same thing with my first gen Tundra. People ask me "I didn't think the Tacoma came with a V-8???" when they hear it start up.

 

[CrispyCracker]

normal_dave, that thread is full of awesome. Even though it addresses common problems with the Gen3 the general consensus in the discussion is that they are criminally underrated vehicles...which is what I want to hear after plunking down cash for one.

Michal, OEM LDS fluid will go in the rear diff. Thanks.

Jnich, I love those first gen Tundra's -- very underrated trucks. Though I love the size and power in the newer Tundras those older versions are more agile and can navigate skinny trails offroad far better. I actually looked for one but all I found locally were rust buckets or decent versions the owner was asking a comically high price for.

 

[nnamssorxela]

You are correct in using the OEM fluid for your LSD diff. The redline fluid will not work with the hybrid system. Mitsubishi's Hybrid LSD has a torsen style gear system, but uses a small clutch pack as well. Gear systems are stronger than clutches, but they need some torque on both wheels to function. If one wheel lifts, the gears do not bind and freely spin until some torque is applied, usually by a hand brake. To compensate for this, a small clutch system was added to provide this small amount of torque in free-wheel so the gears can then engage.

Their L200 page explains this as well. http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/en/showroom/l200/performance/
Hybrid LSD
The hybrid-type Limited Slip Differential combines torque-sensing helical gears with speed-sensing viscous coupling to maintain excellent traction on slippery and rugged surfaces. An internal clutch escape mechanism also prevents loss of torque if a wheel starts spinning. Hybrid LSD works with ABS to enhance driving safety.

The Mitsubishi LSD 90 oil has friction additives for the clutch pack to help it engage when needed. Standard gear oils will need a friction modifier, but the OEM is best. I have been using it in my rear diff for 40k miles.

Michael - the way I understand it is that the viscous coupler is a sealed unit with it's own fluid that is not serviceable. This would mean that the Mitsubishi torsen/visco diffs do not need any special friction modifiers like a standard clutch style diff.

 

[Michael Brown]

I cannot confirm if it is sealed or not based on the picture, but I have always run LSD 90 oil. The manuals spec 1.6L of GL-5 gear oil SAE 90, but do not mention friction additives.

 

[CrispyCracker]

Fuggly's mechanical overhaul was put on the backburner repeatedly after multiple issues with other family vehicles. Stuff I tackled recently while waiting:

- Upper and lower radiator hoses
- Radiator
- Coolant
- Thermostat
- Rear diff fluid (Mitsu LSD oil)
- Front diff fluid (Redline 75W90 GL-5)
- Transfer case fluid (Redline MT-90 GL4)
- Coolant sensor
- Motor oil (Rotella)
- Mitsu tranny fluid (SP-III) and filter





Also tackled some cosmetic stuff:

- Fixed cigarette burns in seats (shaved fabric from lower seat sections and glued into holes)
- Painted badly scratched rear door with factory-matching rattle can paint and quality clear coat. Came out great though I still need to buff the clear. Got the paint here.
- Filled lots of cracks, gouges in cladding and bumpers with this stuff, then sanded it all down and painted whole nine yards with this stuff. Looks good and repairs are as easy as a quick sand and spray.
- Smoked two front windows to match rear tint
- Added cheeky sticker and custom tag










Fuggly is currently at the shop for comprehensive engine repairs. Mechanic was a Mitsu grease monkey for years. He just called to tell me that they tore into the engine and discovered at at almost 150K it's still the original timing belt. He said it looks like it had “minutes left before snapping." I must be living right. He's tackling:

- Timing belt
- Timing belt tensioner
- Timing belt pulleys
- Accessory belt
- Accessory belt pulleys
- Water pump
- O-ring on metal pipe behind pump housing
- Spark plugs and plug o-rings
- Plug wires
- Coil packs
- Crankshaft sensor
- Newer crank pulley bolt
- Rear camshaft seals
- Valve cover gaskets
- Anything else that's leaking

We're waiting on a few parts to arrive so please weigh in if you feel I should address anything else while the motor's apart.

I realize that this is an expedition site so at some point I'll get to decking out the Monty for distance travel (springs, shocks, fridge, wheels, tires, etc.) but want to make sure she's reliable first. And making her a bit more prettified has been fun.

Thanks again to the folks who've coached this Montero newb along the way -- most notably Igorskiy86 and especially Michael Brown. Back soon with more.

 

[Se7en62]

That is a GREAT looking Gen 3! Well done and good on your for getting the maintenance items addressed up front. I'll be following along!

 

[CrispyCracker]

Thank you! It’s coming along little by little and each change is intentional. Once the engine is squared away I’ll be buying new tires and 0 offset wheels in the hopes that it will solve a maddening vibration issue. But I confess that I love thie truck already. Yes, it’s underpowered and lacks an exotic profile. But it’s also big, crazy comfortable, surprisingly nimble, eminently practical and unique enough to draw curious stares. And with the tall 34-inch tires and expansive windows it offers the best visibility of any vehicle I have ever owned, far and away. My wife has dubbed it “The Fug” and she’s as smitten by the old girl as I am. Looking forward to the process of making it a unique ride.

 

[Leadheavy52]

While you have it that far apart, new rubber bushings and orings on the fuel injectors and if you really want to seal it up well, the valve stem seals. I had my ‘01 XLS down to the block to replace a blown head gasket, do the valve stem seals were easier than they would be in a truck with the heads in place. Nice looking rig. I am in the same boat with completing the maintenance before the fun stuff (mods). I am done with the motor and am replacing the pesky HBB accumulator motor on the brakes. Score on the 4.9 LSD! This is my third Montero (88, 97, 01) and I am sold on them.

 

[Michael Brown]

Very glad you caught the timing belt. That would definitely have shut down the whole project.

Reliable is all you need for an expedition. Mine has been stock except for a trailer hitch plate and some additional lights. I still take it out every chance I get to explore dirt roads.

 

[coffeegoat]

Another vote for Valve seals - they're cheap, relatively easy, and a pretty common source of leaking. Check the EGR valve, just make sure it's working, I'd also check around the evap container for anything that looks to be in poor shape, mine needed a bit of TLC.

The other one that I'd consider is sending the fuel injectors out for a refurb, it's a task that I regret not doing when i had the whole thing apart. Figure ~$120, so not cheap, but not too bad.

 

[CrispyCracker]

Thanks for the input -- should have polled this group for further suggestions earlier. Unfortunately the mechanic is wrapping things up now so I'll need to hope that he addressed anything suspect that he saw. The work was delayed, BTW, because he insisted that I find and buy a number of parts not originally supplied, including both accessory belt pulleys, thermostat housing gasket, radiator fan housing, etc. He said the PO "clearly tried to do some maintenance work himself and did the engine no favors"...but that overall everything could be remedied. We'll see.

Very glad you caught the timing belt. That would definitely have shut down the whole project. Reliable is all you need for an expedition. Mine has been stock except for a trailer hitch plate and some additional lights. I still take it out every chance I get to explore dirt roads.

I have you to thank for creating urgency re: the timing belt and context re: quality parts. And I agree with your point re: reliability being the top qualifier for an expedition vehicle. I'm crazy impressed by the inspired custom work I see in this joint but my plans do not involve sleeping platforms and such. I'm a tent camper and the interior space in the Monty is sufficient for my crew's stuff, at least for now.. That said, I'm considering a mini fridge, two-battery system, making better use of the storage areas and rear door, and adding some custom rod holders (since I fish everywhere I go). And I will for sure be adding quality tires, 0-offset wheels and springs and shocks (still debating which kit to buy). In defiance of the function-over-form crowd ( ) I'll also continue to remedy cosmetic stuff like scuffed-up interior panels, a sagging headliner, missing or cracked trim (ex., missing end caps on the front seat rails), a nice stereo/head unit, etc. The challenge I'm facing is that there are no Monty's in local u-pull-it junkyards...but I'll keep looking since perseverance seems to be a common trait in this forum.