Fuso FG build ideas

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Pretty smart use of available space, but I would have some concerns that the flat bumper size and design may inhibit quite a bit of air flow to the radiator.
 

Flameffects

Observer
Yes this was a thought I had also. The bumper is only 3/8" taller than stock which did not concern me. The lack of the factory holes was a concern. I wrote off most of the cooling effects of the holes in the stock bumper because the frame brace, horns and cabs hinge bar mechanism were all directly behind them. It actually may allow more air in than stock because it now sits in front of the frame instead of wrapping below and above the frame rails. It has had no effect on my engines temp to date.
Pretty smart use of available space, but I would have some concerns that the flat bumper size and design may inhibit quite a bit of air flow to the radiator.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Pretty smart use of available space, but I would have some concerns that the flat bumper size and design may inhibit quite a bit of air flow to the radiator.

With all the junk I have hanging on the front of mine it is definitely an issue I face. I've actually just ordered some airtabs that I hope to use to shape my airflow a bit more purposefully.
 

dlh62c

Explorer

Good job!

I like the look and its function.

I know we all want to achieve the maximum protection for our vehicles, both in the front and rear, but one needs to be careful what one bolts up.

Investigators say 'large, aftermarket' bumper on Jeep contributed to death of 2 West Linn teens

Most of us are not old enough to remember Jane Mansfield and how her death resulted in what now is called a Mansfield bar on the rear of tractor trailers.
 
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Flameffects

Observer
Awesome job. Any interest in building another for my (future) truck?
Let me know when your ready and will entertain the idea. I still have so much to do on my rig and may be in the thick of it. Its hard for me sometimes to drop what I am doing and start an new project. There was a bit of mill work done to lighten the winch housing. One big plus is I have already made one and the second one would take much less time. I have attached a photo of the top of the with box so you can see some of the machining I did.
IMG_1861.jpg
 
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Flameffects

Observer
Good job!

I like the look and its function.

I know we all what to achieve the maximum protection for our vehicles, both in the front and rear, but one needs to be careful what one bolts up.

Investigators say 'large, aftermarket' bumper on Jeep contributed to death of 2 West Linn teens

Most of us are not old enough to remember Jane Mansfield and how her death resulted in what now is called a Mansfield bar on the rear of tractor trailers.

Your absolutely right about safety for yourself and others. I was I Firefighter Paramedic for 30 years and worked I-80 over Donner Summit. We always joked that cab over trucks were the first to the scene of the accident. This FUSO truck is undoubtedly the most unsafe vehicle I have ever owned. Safety is aways a balancing act and I did my best to allow for some potential crumple. On my list is a Mansfield bar that uses my rear winch receiver mounts as an attachment point. I can then remove the bar when I go off road. I may also incorporate a one way hinge to allow for angle of departure.
 
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dlh62c

Explorer
If at all possible hinge it. If you remove it, you'll have to do something with it. Large European overlanding rigs often hinge their rear bumpers to meet their bumper height restrictions.
 

Flameffects

Observer
Winch mounted to rear of vehicle.

This is a photo of the winch mounted to rear of the truck. The winch is 12000 lb Warn winch. Its to heavy to move by oneself but can be done in a pinch. The winch unit with the housing weighs about 160 lbs.
IMG_1888.jpg
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
The winch unit with the housing weighs about 160 lbs.

Given that you have a roller fairlead I assume that you are using wire rope. If weigh is an issue then changing to synthetic rope might be an option.
I have a 17,500lbs winch that would use heavier cable than yours but I saved over 25kg (55lbs) using synthetic rope.

BTW... that setup looks really neat.

Out of interest, why did you build the box out of such heavy gauge steel?
 
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Flameffects

Observer
Given that you have a roller fairlead I assume that you are using wire rope. If weigh is an issue then changing to synthetic rope might be an option.
I have a 17,500lbs winch that would use heavier cable than yours but I saved over 25kg (55lbs) using synthetic rope.

BTW... that setup looks really neat.

Out of interest, why did you build the box out of such heavy gauge steel?
I built the winch housing out of the manufactures minim thickness which was 5/16". The winch alone weighs 136 lbs. So I actually may have under estimated the final weight. A 10x10 tube weighs 40 lbs per foot which makes the housing about 84 lbs. My total weight is closer to 220 lbs. I could have saved an estimated 40 lbs of weight and 8" of overall vehicle length but would loose the ability to switch winch positions.
Thanks for relaying your weight savings with the rope v/s wire. I may choose to change it out in the future if I have any money left after my build!
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
I know that it is probably pointless discussing this now, given that you have already built the winch housing, but I will anyway... :)

Correct me if I am wrong here, but from what I can see, the winch housing is mounted on removable legs and you have mounted the winch internally on the back face of the 10" x 10" RHS.
Is there a technical reason you did not simply attach a solid base plate to the removable legs and mount the winch horizontally, not vertically? As far as I know, all winches can be configured to mount either horizontally or vertically, you just reposition one of the drum separation stays for a clear rope path.
If you did this then the surrounds for the winch could have been made from something as light as 16 gauge sheet, which would have significantly reduced the weight. Alternately, you could have gone with no winch surround at all, if a lighter weight was a criteria.
Just wondering, as you could have saved a significant amount of weight if you did it that way.

I should add that anyone who knows me would probably be calling me a hypocrite at this point in time, as I normally over engineer everything and build stuff much heavier than it needs to be.
And here I was thinking that this was just me! ;)
 

Flameffects

Observer
Your idea is where I was headed when I first started my design. Then I read the install instructions…..unusual for me. I found the winch had be mounted in the direction of pull or the warrantee would be void. All of their lighter winches are mounted with bottom bolts. Only thing I could figure is they have had winch housing failure at the mounting points. I could have bent the face plate like a conventional winch housing but it would have taken just as much material. Now you know my story.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
That will teach you to read the instructions. ;)

My winch is mounted as yours is (vertically) but I know of quite a few winch installations on Canters that are mounted horizontally. The trucks I am thinking of have had either a 15,000lbs or 17,500lbs Chinese winch and they seem to be fine.
Here there are two common winch capable bullbars for the Canter/Isuzu; one made by ECB and the other by Custom Alloy (recently purchased by ECB). As far as I can remember, the Custom Alloy bar is normally used by ATW (and me) and has a vertical mount for the winch. The ECB bar (used by Earthcruiser) has the winch mounted horizontally.

To be honest, I was a bit surprised to read what you wrote, as I was of the impression that Warn were better than the average Chinese winch.
You did not mention which winch you have, but I am guessing that it might be the 16,500lbs one.
 

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