FWC Hawk: Repairs to roof and body.

FAW3

Adventurer
This was NOT part of my fall plans:

FWC tree s.jpg

We had a severe storm in No. Virginia and a large tree limb fell onto my house and the parked FWC Hawk camper.

The limb put a palm sized hole through the roof shingles and underlayment and ripped up two sections of vinyl wall siding on the house.

The Hawk was off the truck and lightly on the jacks and on a set of blocks and cribbing. The limb impact perforated the roof with a tear about 17"x2" and knocked the Hawk off the blocks and bent the rear jack mounts. On the right rear side the internal frame member at the corner is broken at the top of the jack mount (discovered after removing the jack plate).

Roof damage:
FWC roof 1.jpg

Left Rear:
FWC corner bracket.jpg

Right rear:
FWC right corner bracket.jpg

The evening of the storm we used a high lift and a floor jack to get the Hawk up a bit and put it back on the blocks and cribbing. We recovered the camper with a spare tarp and thus we avoided having extensive water damage through the roof over the next few days. We also unbolted the rear jacks from the jack plates and removed them.

The next step we took was on the first decently sunny day we uncovered the Hawk and cleaned up the roof penetration area. I bent the metal flat as best I could. I used Flex-Seal brand tape to make a temporary patch and covered the hole. This tape is excellent for this type of repair, it is easy to work with and seals well. It came in a roll 4" wide so a couple of overlapping strips sealed this problem perfectly. With the roof temporarily sealed we raised up the roof and although it is bent a bit, it lifted into place easily and the front and rear panels locked into place.

Good stuff: Flex Seal Tape

My next step was to remove the rear jack plates and inspect the damage to the body of the camper. Several of the mounting bolts had been stripped out of the frame and on the right rear side of the camper at the upper edge of the jack plate I found that the internal aluminum frame member was severed.

I need to address and repair these two primary issues, and so far, my thoughts are:

1: Roof penetration: My plan here is to cut away the buggered up edges of the hole and to the degree possible restore the panel to being flat. I'll then use a section of white finished aluminum flashing to patch the hole with a good overlap beyond the edges. I'll affix the panel with a permanent bonding/sealing agent like 3M 5200. Considering using a few pop rivets for the corners & long edges also. I'll finish the aluminum patch edges with strips of the White Flex Seal tape.

2: Rear corners/frame damage: I've already successfully re-bent the corner jack plates to square, they can be reused. I'm planning to completely remove the 1/2" wide black aluminum trim corners used to seal the exterior corners on an FWC camper. I'll replace these light trim sections with a full length of 90 degree 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock that is 1 1/4" wide. This will be affixed to the corners and be bolted/screwed into position for the complete 34" length of the camper corner. The OEM jack plates will be through bolted to this angle stock and into the frame. For some points along these aluminum strips I may be able to access the interior and will try some bolts with backing plates to add some additional strength. My thought is that by doing a reinforcement for the entire corner assembly I'll end up with a suitable and sound repair for the structural damage. I'll use butyl caulking tape or similar under the entire length of the aluminum angle stock to seal the corners from water intrusion. These will then be painted black to match the other corner trim.

At least that's the plan for now.

I'll post up as I make progress.
 
Last edited:

robgendreau

Explorer
Yikes. Sorry for the damage, but sounds like a good plan. Given the hit those jack mounts took, I'm amazed the body held up. Wow; impressive.
 

FAW3

Adventurer
Almost done with the final roof panel repair. The "tear" in the roof did not involve any damage to the roof framing. There are some other related minor surface denting...but no other holes or bent framing. Here is what I did, I offer it only as it might help someone or give them even better ideas.

I've heard of other approaches and suggestions used for repairs. The idea of using any sort of filler/patch (Bondo, fiberglass, etc.) to me is not a sound method due to the normal range of flex in the FWC roof and the differences between the heat/cold expansion rates of the differing materials involved.

Step 1 was to clean up the penetration tear area and remove burrs and folded over areas. I used some wide lip welding pliers and sheet metal shears for this.

Step 2 was to "back up" the underside of the open area. I had some white vinyl trim sheeting from a home project. This is a 5/16" thick panel of white vinyl. It's fairly stiff and stable. I cut this to fit into the hole and was able to wiggle it into place where it filled about 90% of the "hole". I then used 1/8" pop rivets to tighten it up and secure it into place. This is right under the FWC aluminum roof sheet just to stiffen up the site.

I'll note here that if I had a big enough hole to require a larger rigid or otherwise well supported patch, I would consider use of this material or similar on both sides of the hole, mechanically attached with pop rivets and suitable bonding/sealer, with something like FlexTape around the perimeter. This material comes in various shapes and is essentially plastic/vinyl so it is weather proof and is typically white in color.

Product used: White vinyl trim board.

Step 3 was to cut a section of aluminum flashing/sheeting to fit over the tear area with about a 2" overlap. This was sealed/secured with a good wide perimeter line of 3M 4200 Marine Adhesive Sealant between the patch and the FWC roof panel. I choose 4200 over 5200 as it is a bit more friendly should I ever have to remove this patch.

Step 4 was to use some FlexSeal tape to seal the edges. This tape has worked well for me in the past and I'm comfortable using it in this application. Eternabond would be another option...also have had good results with it over the years. The initial application was a 2" wide strip around the perimeter.

Step 5 will be to purchase either Eternabond or FlexSeal tape in white which will be used to cover the entire patch area with sealing tape. This will provide a nice white finish and an extra layer of weatherproofing.

Photo of repair before Step 5:

FWC roof patch.jpg
 
Last edited:

FAW3

Adventurer
Now to the corner/jack bracket repairs. Both sides were similarly damaged by the impact of the limb knocking the camper off the jacks & blocks/cribbing thus bending the brackets away from the frame.

Lower corner area with the jack brackets removed:
FWC RR corner damage bare.jpg

This is really bad & discovering this damage really hit my day hard. The internal aluminum square frame structure itself is severed on one side of the Hawk and about half severed on the other side. Any repair to this type of damage must address the broken frame member and ensure the jack plates are well attached and able to handle the loads of removing/replacing the camper on a truck bed.

Note the lightweight thin black aluminum trim just above this area. This trim will be removed and replaced all along the corner from the roof line to the bottom of the camper with a full length of sturdy aluminum angle stock. This corner reinforcement and adding some backing plates to the frame member will be the structural basis for my repair.

I want to mimic the OEM appearance of the corner as much as possible, be weathertight, and be as strong as the OEM set up. The challenge here is the structural aspect - off pavement travels put stresses on this area and the forces involved when I use the jacks to mount/remove the camper from my flatbed truck are even higher.

I started by removing the jack plates and using a hammer and vice straightened out the slightly bent jack brackets. I then removed the caulking and opened up the access to the upper section where the frame was severed.

Next up I had some left over 1/8"x1" aluminum flat stock. I was able to get a 5" section of this material this into place behind the severed area. This will serve as a backup plate for the repair. I used some double sided body molding tape to stick it into place. I pre-drilled pilot holes for the lag screws that would eventually be put through the OEM jack brackets, through the new external aluminum angle frame and through the damaged OEM frame. I also noted that the outside frame sections were OEM filled with a wood stiffener in the repair area. I used some Liquid Nails adhesive on the lag bolts...hoping for a better bite. In holes where the lags did not get a good grip, I upsized them one diameter to get a good hold. The factory lags were 1/4 x 2".

Just before I started to remount the external components of the repair I used a 2" strip of FlexSeal Tape to seal the corner and side panels. On top of this Flex Seal Tape I used Butyl caulking ribbon tape to provide a good caulk seal between the side body panels and the new aluminum angle. All this was run the full length of the corner from the roof trim to the bottom of the camper.

I used a length of 1/8"x 1.25"x1.25" 90 degree aluminum angle cut to about 32" in length as the primary exterior component of the repair. This angle runs from the top of the camper side wall to the bottom of the camper and was painted black to match the OEM corner trim. The OEM jack brackets are mounted to this angle with lag bolts which pass through the jack bracket, through the new aluminum angle section, through the OEM frame and in a couple of places also through the aluminum backplate material. My thought is that this would strengthen the entire corner and use the full length for the critical anchoring lag bolts & screws. The new aluminum angle above the jack brackets was attached with self threading1.25" x 8 sheet metal screws.

One side finished up with the new full length aluminum angle reinforcement:

FWC corner repair.jpg

I'll wrap up with the comment that I posted this thread in case it might help someone else. I know that there are likely other methods of doing these repairs. If I encounter issues with the roof or corner repairs, I'll update this thread.

OODA: I chose to fix this myself because I do not have a close by FWC dealer or other suitable repair facility that could both properly fix AND get it back to me in time for my fall camping plans.

Happy travels folks, let's all get back to the fun:

Campsetup close s.jpg
 
Last edited:

FAW3

Adventurer
With repairs finished and the fall season calling...we jacked up the camper last week and reinstalled it on the truck.

The lifting process with the four corner jacks was uneventful and I saw no flex or other issues on the rear corners. It appears that the repairs are working out with the flex & weight of lifting the camper. Did some gravel forest roads with mild washboard and potholes and all seems well. I'll be monitoring the corners carefully for a while.

We're in mild drought conditions here but finally have had some limited rain and the roof repair is doing fine.

Enjoying the fall colors along Skyline Drive in Virginia:

395143724_24088584494121089_2128285997362268633_n.jpg
395143724_24088584494121089_2128285997362268633_n.jpg
 
Last edited:

GXPlore!

New member
Bravo Sir! Many people would have claimed insurance and scrapped it. You’ve shown that things CAN be repaired and are no worse off from those repairs.
 

FAW3

Adventurer
Bravo Sir! Many people would have claimed insurance and scrapped it. You’ve shown that things CAN be repaired and are no worse off from those repairs.

Good time for an update:

The camper has been on/off the truck about 4 times so far, and I've roamed around on a couple of good month-long trips, to include mild/moderate 4 wheeling. The repairs have performed perfectly - no issues with the roof patch and the rear mounting repairs show no movement or leaking, the roof section deploys up and down just fine. I would not hesitate to fully recommend these repair methods for anyone in similar circumstances.

I made an insurance claim with Nationwide which covers both my house and vehicles. An insurance adjuster came out and made an inspection. Nationwide paid a very fair settlement for the house and camper damage.

I did the repairs with about 16 hours of labor and perhaps $100.00 in materials, some of which I already had on hand.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
188,203
Messages
2,903,748
Members
229,665
Latest member
SANelson
Top