German 98 Blazer build

Project rear bumper is finished...

First I relocated the charcoal canister:

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Then I added a license plate holder and lighting, the tow hooks and my backup light. Finished:

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The airshocks showed up today:

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It was a major pain in the *** to remove those upper mounting "bolts" from the shocks. I didn`t want to destroy the shocks and don`t have a press...

Mounted:

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I used some grade 12 bolts to mount the shocks, so this is gonna hold up...

The air valve:

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Ride height now:

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Good bye old shocks:

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Silverado

Adventurer
I would run those airlines independent of each other and not in a "T".

If one side of the vehicle has more weight than the other it can pump up the unloaded side when one is compressed.
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
The problem Stein, is that the perssure from one shock will travel over to the other as it is loaded. The effect is that the shock that should be working purges its presure over to the opposite shock giving a negative or reverse reaction. I know that it is common to run a `T´fitting, but you will get a weird pressure drop when you need it most. A seperate fitting for each shock is the way to go.:sombrero:
 
Hmm, isn`t this exactly what you want to, in order to keep it flexing?

When one side is compressed the air needs to go somewhere!?

If it`s like you say, shouldn`t there be a lot of body roll?
 

Silverado

Adventurer
the last thing you want is a lot of body roll, and plumbing them together will allow the compressed side to pressurize the unloaded side which can be dangerous with a rig as tall as yours on the road or trail. I had some in an older car and plumbed them in a tee.....the car handled poorly in the rear and had excessive roll around corners. Plumbing the shocks independently fixed the issue and eliminated the bodyroll caused by the pressure transfer between the two shocks.

Those shocks were designed to support overloaded vehicles and not to provide additional suspension lift.
 
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Those shocks were designed to support overloaded vehicles and not to provide additional suspension lift.

I think this is the point. I don`t use them to give me lift, just to help the car when i`s packed, so the leafs don`t sag...

Actually i did a few test drives today, and the car handles even better than before. There`s just not more bodyroll, i`d say it`s even less...


Just for my understanding, when the shocks are plumbed independent, how are they able to compress and exceed? When it is at 100psi half way out, that pressure must raise enormous when it`s fully compressed. How can that work? Those things have about 10" travel, and I use the full 10"...
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Stein, air will compress naturally. Like Silverado said you do NOT want them in a T fitting. Less air pressure should give you the effect you want, or if you are loaded you can add more pressure as needed. They should still work as they should. Imagine what happens when the pressure from the compressed shock quickly travels over to the shock that is not compressed. It will severly affect your road handeling characteristics.:Wow1:
 
Installed my new blend door actuator, but it didn`t work. After I opened the cases, i saw why:

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Left one is the new...

Not sure what to do with that damn thing...
 
Remounted the washer tank today:

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Also installed the new rear wiper motor today. The new one didn`t work too. You can hear the motor spinning, but the gears are broken.
That`s the second spare part from 4 that don`t work...
 
Not sure where to get those parts...

Ordered a 48" Hilift today, should get it friday. Will mount it at a 45 degree angle on the swingout...

Also ordered the two missing bodylift spacers and some spacers for the front bumper...

Will start on the rocksliders soon, just not sure how to mount it...
 

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