Shane Mulligan
New member
Thank would be great, how much did they cost?
GM fullsize AWD Van Info thread
- Thread starter boardrider247
- Start date
rpfeifer303
New member
Which part # of the Hellwig rear sway bar did you go with? they have them in a 1 1/8 and a 1 3/8 diameter?
I have been considering these as well and don't see any reason why the would not work. The actual front suspension travel does not change with the type of lift most of us are doing. The only thing you are changing is where in the travel range the van sits at rest. Any shock that will mount and has the correct collapsed and extended lengths will work, even the OEM shocks. The real advantage to changing the shocks out is to get different dampening characteristics that can potentially perform better for your use (offroad) and help control body movement due to the higher center of gravity and/or increased weight of a lifted and outfitted vehicle.
Selling my Express AWD
Weekender type build, simple and light but solid. Drives great, LT tires around 10k miles ago, LED headlights. Insulated floor, walls, ceiling. House battery with isolator, several USB outlets, ceiling lights. Fold down bench seat to a 75"x55" bed, and passenger seat on a swivel. Front seat covers (seats in good shape under). MaxxAir 10 speed fan, Sony touchscreen head unit with Apple Carplay/Android Auto and reverse cam. Lots of L-track to lash down cargo and 3 crossbar Thule roof rack. Frame mounted propane tank to feed the Propex HS2211 heater (heater needs work). Windshield cracked on passenger side.
Above is just my craigslist ad copy, happy to answer questions here as I assume buyers here will want more details. I installed the heater, used it twice- worked great. Took a 10hr trip to buy a sailboat that I expected top already be on its trailer to find that I had to load it. Very steep ramp meant the externally mounted heater got dunked and stopped working. I planned on sending it in for service at some point but haven't.
Album of current pics
Weekender type build, simple and light but solid. Drives great, LT tires around 10k miles ago, LED headlights. Insulated floor, walls, ceiling. House battery with isolator, several USB outlets, ceiling lights. Fold down bench seat to a 75"x55" bed, and passenger seat on a swivel. Front seat covers (seats in good shape under). MaxxAir 10 speed fan, Sony touchscreen head unit with Apple Carplay/Android Auto and reverse cam. Lots of L-track to lash down cargo and 3 crossbar Thule roof rack. Frame mounted propane tank to feed the Propex HS2211 heater (heater needs work). Windshield cracked on passenger side.
Above is just my craigslist ad copy, happy to answer questions here as I assume buyers here will want more details. I installed the heater, used it twice- worked great. Took a 10hr trip to buy a sailboat that I expected top already be on its trailer to find that I had to load it. Very steep ramp meant the externally mounted heater got dunked and stopped working. I planned on sending it in for service at some point but haven't.
Album of current pics
rpfeifer303
New member
Dear @boardrider247
BOR confirmed the rear FOX shocks are # 985-24-005 for our van. Perhaps you can update the 1st page
Does anyone have suggestions about replacing the bump stops with the torsion bar lift with our vans?
I have my build up for sale on the big board.
expeditionportal.com
SOLD! AWD Express Van fully built out in great condition.
Located in Dubuque Iowa and ready for the next adventure. Runs like new. 2008 Chevrolet Express AWD van 5.3l v8 flex fuel with 172k miles. Van is factory AWD and can be transfer case swapped with an NP241c transfer case for true 4wd hi/lo. Van has power windows, power locks, keyless entry...
expeditionportal.com
boardrider247
Weekend warrior anarchist
Sorry been on the road and just logged back in. I will update the suspension post.
Thanks!
Pabloaguas
New member
yes, I have the fox and they are much, much better than the skyjackers that claim another two inches of travel. I haven’t noticed the fox topping out even when bouncing over sand moguls. If they do top out it’s very soft. I have 2.5”
Key lift
Pabloaguas
New member
I used the Silverado ZR1 bump stops. They are perfect.
So- question about the rear fox… did Boulder provide a bar pin solution?
Last edited:
Inspired Adventurist
Member
Excited to join the Express AWD van fam!
Thanks a bunch to everyone who's shared knowledge and high-quality information. I super stoked to have just picked up a 2003 Express AWD (185k mi) with an Explorer Conversion package from a motorcycle mechanic/racer/engineer in MI. It's got the dual-side barn doors, heated seats, and all the extra bells and whistles (or at least, the 03 version of bells and whistles). Also, I got a lucky bonus, it has a G80 LSD!
The seller added a set of Timbren bump stops in the rear, upgraded the tires to 265/75r16 BFG K02's (@80% tread life) with a size matched spare. I got an extra set of rims and tires. Transfer case and tire rods were both recently replaced.
I had a pre-purchase inspection done, and the mechanic was amazed at the limited amount of rust for a car of it's age from IN and MI. He said someone took very, good care of it, and gave me a clean bill of health on codes, drivetrain, and engine. I'll still have it brought my mechanic for a fluid/fill and check-over.
There are a few warts: A couple rips/smudges/smootze/squeaks here and there. The front suspension is probably due for a refresh, as it rides pretty rough over bumps or I need to air down the tires . There are a few interior lights out, and the radio system is gremlin plagued. All the blower's/louvres for the heat are strong and functional, but the A/C is out. Thankfully, it's winter and I can wait to have the A/C replaced in the spring.
My first set of tasks is getting an underbody rust inhibitor coating, chasing down and quieting shakes/squeaks on the interior that are pretty obnoxious. Then I'll install a lift and will replace the shocks. Depending on how difficult/impractical it is, I'd like to cut off the fiberglass underskirting, running boards, and bumper fascia. Getting rid of that stuff would claw back a couple inches of ground clearance.
My intentions with this rig, are to keep it simple. I have batteries, diesel heater, refrigerator, etc from a previous build of an 03 Sprinter 158" High Roof. I'll use those things so I can basecamp out of ski parking lots for the rest of the season. I still have the Sprinter, but I've been waiting on a new engine for way too long. My former daily driver (07 Honda Accord Hybrid: 270k mi. Held together literally with duct tape and zip ties) is at the far end of it's best days. I'll accept 60% of the liveability from this rig that I built into the Sprinter, for 90% fewer mechanical headaches, and when mechanicals happen, even a far north Maine mechanic will know exactly what to do and have parts in stock.
A few questions:
1. Has anyone done the work to remove the fiberglass underskirting, running boards, faux-bumper, etc? What did you have to do? Was the van two-toned as a result?
2. For the lift kit, I'm planning to just go with the BOR kit. Is there any feedback/opinions of the Fox vs Bilstein and additional helper springs vs none?
3. Swivel Mounts: This van has really fancy seats with a huge bundle of wires powering tilt, swivel, heat, lumbar support, etc. Has anyone installed a swivel seat and been able to keep these functions? Also, the driver's seat has about an inch of play between braking and accelerating which is disconcerting. Is there a a way to eliminate that motion?
Thanks a bunch to everyone who's shared knowledge and high-quality information. I super stoked to have just picked up a 2003 Express AWD (185k mi) with an Explorer Conversion package from a motorcycle mechanic/racer/engineer in MI. It's got the dual-side barn doors, heated seats, and all the extra bells and whistles (or at least, the 03 version of bells and whistles). Also, I got a lucky bonus, it has a G80 LSD!
The seller added a set of Timbren bump stops in the rear, upgraded the tires to 265/75r16 BFG K02's (@80% tread life) with a size matched spare. I got an extra set of rims and tires. Transfer case and tire rods were both recently replaced.
I had a pre-purchase inspection done, and the mechanic was amazed at the limited amount of rust for a car of it's age from IN and MI. He said someone took very, good care of it, and gave me a clean bill of health on codes, drivetrain, and engine. I'll still have it brought my mechanic for a fluid/fill and check-over.
There are a few warts: A couple rips/smudges/smootze/squeaks here and there. The front suspension is probably due for a refresh, as it rides pretty rough over bumps or I need to air down the tires . There are a few interior lights out, and the radio system is gremlin plagued. All the blower's/louvres for the heat are strong and functional, but the A/C is out. Thankfully, it's winter and I can wait to have the A/C replaced in the spring.
My first set of tasks is getting an underbody rust inhibitor coating, chasing down and quieting shakes/squeaks on the interior that are pretty obnoxious. Then I'll install a lift and will replace the shocks. Depending on how difficult/impractical it is, I'd like to cut off the fiberglass underskirting, running boards, and bumper fascia. Getting rid of that stuff would claw back a couple inches of ground clearance.
My intentions with this rig, are to keep it simple. I have batteries, diesel heater, refrigerator, etc from a previous build of an 03 Sprinter 158" High Roof. I'll use those things so I can basecamp out of ski parking lots for the rest of the season. I still have the Sprinter, but I've been waiting on a new engine for way too long. My former daily driver (07 Honda Accord Hybrid: 270k mi. Held together literally with duct tape and zip ties) is at the far end of it's best days. I'll accept 60% of the liveability from this rig that I built into the Sprinter, for 90% fewer mechanical headaches, and when mechanicals happen, even a far north Maine mechanic will know exactly what to do and have parts in stock.
A few questions:
1. Has anyone done the work to remove the fiberglass underskirting, running boards, faux-bumper, etc? What did you have to do? Was the van two-toned as a result?
2. For the lift kit, I'm planning to just go with the BOR kit. Is there any feedback/opinions of the Fox vs Bilstein and additional helper springs vs none?
3. Swivel Mounts: This van has really fancy seats with a huge bundle of wires powering tilt, swivel, heat, lumbar support, etc. Has anyone installed a swivel seat and been able to keep these functions? Also, the driver's seat has about an inch of play between braking and accelerating which is disconcerting. Is there a a way to eliminate that motion?
Attachments
Welcome to the club. I have a 2013 Chevy that I love. In fact I love it so much I bought a 2003 GMC similar to the one you've got this past summer. It even has the G80 ( maybe this option was more likely in conversion vans??)
I found some pretty rusted rocker panels when I removed the running boards. I ended up cutting out what rust I could, chemically treating what remained as good as was possible and welded some new steel rockers on. I sanded and sprayed the 5 or 6 inches below the lowest body line with Stone Guard, matched rattle can paint and clear coat. It turned out great and should look good and stay rust free for a long time to come.
I did the 3/4 rear Suburban springs, indexed torsion keys and Bilstein's for a lift on my 2013 and it's a joy to drive. Cruises comfortably at 80 all day and lumps me to some great campsites with no drama. If I can't sell the 2003 before summer, I may end up giving it the same treatment.
I put a passenger swivel in the 2013 and had to lengthen most of the wiring. It's not a power seat so it was just the seat belt and airbag stuff. Worked great as long as it was rotated in then back out. Borrowed it to a friend, they spun it all the way around and tore up the wires. Aaargh!
Page 30 of this thread has links to the lift parts I used.
I found some pretty rusted rocker panels when I removed the running boards. I ended up cutting out what rust I could, chemically treating what remained as good as was possible and welded some new steel rockers on. I sanded and sprayed the 5 or 6 inches below the lowest body line with Stone Guard, matched rattle can paint and clear coat. It turned out great and should look good and stay rust free for a long time to come.
I did the 3/4 rear Suburban springs, indexed torsion keys and Bilstein's for a lift on my 2013 and it's a joy to drive. Cruises comfortably at 80 all day and lumps me to some great campsites with no drama. If I can't sell the 2003 before summer, I may end up giving it the same treatment.
I put a passenger swivel in the 2013 and had to lengthen most of the wiring. It's not a power seat so it was just the seat belt and airbag stuff. Worked great as long as it was rotated in then back out. Borrowed it to a friend, they spun it all the way around and tore up the wires. Aaargh!
Page 30 of this thread has links to the lift parts I used.
Inspired Adventurist
Member
I'm for sure worried about this. I was told by the mechanic that the rocker panel rust is minimal, and he popped it up on the rack to really look around underneath. Those skirts, however, seem like pretty strong vectors for rust, trapping dirt and moisture right against the metal. I'm going to crawl around under there a bit more and bring a hammer/screwdriver to tap around.
We you able to just unbolt the fascia or did you have to rip/cut/tear it off? I'm trying to assess how much time I need to allocate, and how quickly I should get after the full assessment. Probably pretty quickly if I want to get it undercoated. ?♂️
Actually, looking at the pictures, particularly this one, it looks like their rust along the pinch weld on the far left of the picture. The general look of the van underneath is in the other pictures.
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Inspired Adventurist
Member
Do you have any pictures of your 2003 before and after you pulled the Fascia off?