grindmonkey
Member
You can always go with the OCP.
Go big or go home:
- Thread starter MTVR
- Start date
You can always go with the OCP.
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
What type of ply did you use?
Unless you are using a good ply, without glass the epoxy will check/crack/fail.
Its not a matter of if, its a matter of when.
The only reason I was able to go without glass on my build is because I used a legit BS1088 Okoume ply
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Would I be correct that you chose a specific Marine Grade Plywood to avoid checking of your epoxied plywood?
Would I be correct that although you strove to build yourself a lightweight camper, and encouraged @MTVR to do the same, you think it would be best for his camper if he added the additional weight and cost of fiberglass?
ExpoMike
Well-known member
I am in a similar issue of color. I am down to three colors, two of which are similar to yours.
Four coats of marine-grade epoxy on the left, right, and front outer walls, as well as to the inside of the nesting area for the drawbridge.
We previously applied six coats to the roof, and the bottom of the floor has three. The outside of the basic structure is now absolutely waterproof. No more tarping it every night and untarping in the morning.
We hope to paint it flat woodland green this weekend.
The drawbridge is still in progress, but at least we can winch it up and down. We plan to install the rigid polyiso foam board insulation, foam around it to seal any gaps, urethane glue and screw the outer plywood on, fit it to the opening in the back, fill, sand, and epoxy it, mount the hinge, fab our spare tire carrier, and so on...
We previously applied six coats to the roof, and the bottom of the floor has three. The outside of the basic structure is now absolutely waterproof. No more tarping it every night and untarping in the morning.
We hope to paint it flat woodland green this weekend.
The drawbridge is still in progress, but at least we can winch it up and down. We plan to install the rigid polyiso foam board insulation, foam around it to seal any gaps, urethane glue and screw the outer plywood on, fit it to the opening in the back, fill, sand, and epoxy it, mount the hinge, fab our spare tire carrier, and so on...
The drawbridge will be horizontal when we're using it as a platform.
When we are loading motorcycles, it will depress below horizontal, but nowhere near the ground- we plan to use a 9-foot motorcycle ramp on the end of it to bridge the gap.
And we have a third winch that will mount high up on the front wall to the right of the front door, to pull motorcycles up that 17-foot composite "ramp" into the garage.
When we are loading motorcycles, it will depress below horizontal, but nowhere near the ground- we plan to use a 9-foot motorcycle ramp on the end of it to bridge the gap.
And we have a third winch that will mount high up on the front wall to the right of the front door, to pull motorcycles up that 17-foot composite "ramp" into the garage.
The drawbridge door opening is already very stiff, because of the 3/4" plywood exterior sheathing that is bonded to the framing AND each adjacent section of framing (floor to wall, wall to ceiling, and so on) with fantastically strong urethane construction adhesive.
It will be somewhat stiffer when we bond the inner 3/4" plywood to it.
But to answer your question fully, we also plan to triangulate the corners as much as possible, by structurally tying every lateral internal member into the walls/floor/ceiling. So for example, there will be cabinets in both upper corners that will extend all the way to the rearmost part of the interior.
It will be somewhat stiffer when we bond the inner 3/4" plywood to it.
But to answer your question fully, we also plan to triangulate the corners as much as possible, by structurally tying every lateral internal member into the walls/floor/ceiling. So for example, there will be cabinets in both upper corners that will extend all the way to the rearmost part of the interior.
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D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
Saw your build... Looking good.... ;-)
Any more progress?
We've had so many interruptions- most recently, I had to fly to Texas for a few days to buy a ranch. It will serve as a central base of operations for our exploration of the U.S., and it has a 2,300 square foot shop with 17' tall doors, to store our MTVR in.
Today, in spite of the increasingly sketchy weather, we were back at it. We sank the last 12 of 28 box-to-bed mounting bolts. We are both super-stoked about that.
Tomorrow, we plan to start cutting and installing the 3.5" thick polyiso foam insulation boards in the walls and ceiling, and then foam the gaps, to make them airtight...
To make a long story longer, it appears that we may be moving from Oregon to Texas right before Thanksgiving. There isn't enough time to finish our build, but we'd like to get it fully mounted (done), get the exterior presentable, and get it fully insulated, so that we can sleep in it on the way.