daveh
Adventurer
That should work. I do the same with a Yeti 400 but plug solar panel into Yeti 400. Jeep charges the Yeti from AC outlet while driving. When parked solar panel charges Yeti which runs ARB fridge.
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Goal Zero Opinions? Thinking of getting a solar kit from them.
- Thread starter charliedontsurf
- Start date
That should work. I do the same with a Yeti 400 but plug solar panel into Yeti 400. Jeep charges the Yeti from AC outlet while driving. When parked solar panel charges Yeti which runs ARB fridge.
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Bear in NM
Adventurer
Charlie,
Using a 115 volt inverter is probably the easiest. I mentioned the efficiency as there may be other ways to skin the cat. I am not up on DC to DC charging, but from I have gathered here, it is a way to maintain efficiency and still give your Yeti what it needs in terms of optimal voltages and amps, for the lithium battery's optimal charging and life.
I would recommend reading and searching here, on Yeti's, LiPo batteries and DC to DC charging. Again, no simpler per se, but perhaps more optimal.
Craig
Using a 115 volt inverter is probably the easiest. I mentioned the efficiency as there may be other ways to skin the cat. I am not up on DC to DC charging, but from I have gathered here, it is a way to maintain efficiency and still give your Yeti what it needs in terms of optimal voltages and amps, for the lithium battery's optimal charging and life.
I would recommend reading and searching here, on Yeti's, LiPo batteries and DC to DC charging. Again, no simpler per se, but perhaps more optimal.
Craig
charliedontsurf
Observer
About to pull the trigger on the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium 1000. I thought about the Lithium 1400 but I think the 1,000 will be plenty enough for my needs of the ARB37, some lights, a fan, and maybe an occasional hot water kettle...
As long as I can charge it from the car via an outlet in the back it should be great.
As long as I can charge it from the car via an outlet in the back it should be great.
charliedontsurf
Observer
How would they know what setup I'm using it with?
charliedontsurf
Observer
Ahh I see why you're saying. I certainly wouldn't lie about it. In this day and age most companies don't question warranty type things. I guess I never really considered that aspect of it though.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Goal Zero makes a great product that is well designed and well supported. You are paying for the tight package/integration, and their warranty support.
If you are a nerd/enthusiast about electronics/batteries/solar you may do better rolling your own from both a price and a performance perspective.
If you want something that is going to work, no muss no fuss, Goal Zero is well worth consideration.
If you are a nerd/enthusiast about electronics/batteries/solar you may do better rolling your own from both a price and a performance perspective.
If you want something that is going to work, no muss no fuss, Goal Zero is well worth consideration.
LivinDaDream
Member
SoCalTom
To pugslyyy's point, which I agree with...BTW...
Here's a rough price comparison if you went the DIY route and equivalent performance using LiPo battery. You can find many threads here where people have taken these type DIY components and installed them in a container of some sort with needed I/O connectors.
Much more could be saved if you went with some variety of lead-acid battery (at a huge weight increase and 45% less useable Watt Hours) or a 50AH LiPo battery (and drop one solar panel), but this is more apples to apples and where you originally started out.
Price Qty Extension
Renogy Eclipse 100W Panel $220.00 2 $440.00
Renogy Rover 20A MPPT Controller $130.00 1 $130.00
Battle Born 100AH LiPo Battery $900.00 1 $900.00
Bargain 1500W Inverter (Amazon) $230.00 1 $230.00
Miscellaneous Cable, Hardware, Etc. $150.00 1 $150.00
$1,850.00
Goal Zero Yeti 1400 $1,800.00 1 $1,800.00
Goal Zero Boulder 200 Solar Briefcase $575.00 1 $575.00
Miscellaneous Cables, etc. $100.00 1 $100.00
$2,475.00
Hope it's becoming clearer...
To pugslyyy's point, which I agree with...BTW...
Here's a rough price comparison if you went the DIY route and equivalent performance using LiPo battery. You can find many threads here where people have taken these type DIY components and installed them in a container of some sort with needed I/O connectors.
Much more could be saved if you went with some variety of lead-acid battery (at a huge weight increase and 45% less useable Watt Hours) or a 50AH LiPo battery (and drop one solar panel), but this is more apples to apples and where you originally started out.
Price Qty Extension
Renogy Eclipse 100W Panel $220.00 2 $440.00
Renogy Rover 20A MPPT Controller $130.00 1 $130.00
Battle Born 100AH LiPo Battery $900.00 1 $900.00
Bargain 1500W Inverter (Amazon) $230.00 1 $230.00
Miscellaneous Cable, Hardware, Etc. $150.00 1 $150.00
$1,850.00
Goal Zero Yeti 1400 $1,800.00 1 $1,800.00
Goal Zero Boulder 200 Solar Briefcase $575.00 1 $575.00
Miscellaneous Cables, etc. $100.00 1 $100.00
$2,475.00
Hope it's becoming clearer...
charliedontsurf
Observer
I get where you are coming from... I also have a 20% off for REI right now plus my dividend bucks to use which makes a Goal Zero setup much more comparable in price to a “home brew” set up. At that point I'm talking about a $150 difference which to me is worth it for a clean all in one package.
I'll chime in an spend my opinion for what's its worth. I've run weekend camping and 7 days at work (field geology) with 2 systems. I couldn't find a good comparison so I bought both, and ran them both about the same amount of time and workload with some LED camp lights and an ARB 63 freezer, in moderate weather, between 0 and 25 degrees Celsius.
I have both a Yeti 1400Lithium, with a Boulder 100 plus a Nomad 100, which gives me LOTS of power, clean setup, less weight, and so far I can't see the end of the tunnel of power requirements for the days I used the setup. I also charge while driving off of an inverter, that way the GZ Yeti is getting good clean power and not working around the “do not charge from 12v” issue.
I also run the Nomad 100 and an Arkpak 60W panel with my Arkpak 720, withn Oddesey 2250 deep cycle 130 Amp hour battery. Lots of juice, and heavy, but it can be used to boost or run my truck if need be, as it can be a stand alone battery as well.
Both have lots of power, one is heavy but has dual use, the GZ is just a camp power pack, albeit a large one. I've also run my cabin furnace, small household fridge, lights, and the water well pump off of the GZ as a test, and it might only give me a day with 40% left, but that's the cabin, and backup. Not a fair or typical use for the Yeti, but it works. And that's without charging.
I have both a Yeti 1400Lithium, with a Boulder 100 plus a Nomad 100, which gives me LOTS of power, clean setup, less weight, and so far I can't see the end of the tunnel of power requirements for the days I used the setup. I also charge while driving off of an inverter, that way the GZ Yeti is getting good clean power and not working around the “do not charge from 12v” issue.
I also run the Nomad 100 and an Arkpak 60W panel with my Arkpak 720, withn Oddesey 2250 deep cycle 130 Amp hour battery. Lots of juice, and heavy, but it can be used to boost or run my truck if need be, as it can be a stand alone battery as well.
Both have lots of power, one is heavy but has dual use, the GZ is just a camp power pack, albeit a large one. I've also run my cabin furnace, small household fridge, lights, and the water well pump off of the GZ as a test, and it might only give me a day with 40% left, but that's the cabin, and backup. Not a fair or typical use for the Yeti, but it works. And that's without charging.
CSG
Explorer
I spoke to someone at Goal Zero last week with some questions about the Yeti 1000 at Costco. I had assumed you could charge it while driving via a 12V outlet. He said they had problems with a 12V charger for the lithium unit but expected to have a car cord charger very early in 2018. Not running a fridge in my LLC, I don't currently have a need for a Yeti but if they get the car charging sorted, I still may get one. At home, we have a Honda 2000 but I almost never take it camping. The Yeti 1000 has a lot of appeal but I don't want to get into solar so I need to have a car charge cord to get serious. I know a decent inverter could work but it seems inefficient.
LivinDaDream
Member
CSG,
My takeaway from looking over the spec's of these units is that they're really not a good option for extended, everyday heavy usage...and by that I mean using more than 300-400WH of energy per day for much more than a weekend. Unless you have an appropriately sized solar source to not only supply power needs through the day, but also have enough left over to replace whatever you used overnight, you'll be running a daily deficit. The only means to recharge these units in a reasonable period of time is the Solar input and that's apparently limited to 240W by their Solar controller.
Even if GZ get the car charger matter sorted out, trying to charge a unit with 1000 Watt Hours plus of capacity is going to take a lot of drive (or idle) time, even if only depleted to 50%. Most car Aux power receptacles are fused at 10A or 15A max, so you're only going to be able to draw somewhere around 100W-150W out of one...hence the very long recharge times listed for 12V input.
To get any reasonable recharge time from your vehicle, you'd have to use the 20A Anderson Power Pole input intended for solar panels AND your vehicle charging system would have to supply >14V when running. And this needs to be >14V at the input to the Yeti once all voltage drop in wiring is included. I suspect this is the problem that GZ is facing when trying to charge off 12V (nominal) systems. Unless they build in a DC-DC converter to the 12V kit or the unit itself, you don't have a high enough voltage source to properly charge the system. Solar and their internal charger give them the voltage needed.
You really need to think through your power needs and how you'll really be using a system like this before shelling out big money...a lot of technical "gotchas" lurking.
My takeaway from looking over the spec's of these units is that they're really not a good option for extended, everyday heavy usage...and by that I mean using more than 300-400WH of energy per day for much more than a weekend. Unless you have an appropriately sized solar source to not only supply power needs through the day, but also have enough left over to replace whatever you used overnight, you'll be running a daily deficit. The only means to recharge these units in a reasonable period of time is the Solar input and that's apparently limited to 240W by their Solar controller.
Even if GZ get the car charger matter sorted out, trying to charge a unit with 1000 Watt Hours plus of capacity is going to take a lot of drive (or idle) time, even if only depleted to 50%. Most car Aux power receptacles are fused at 10A or 15A max, so you're only going to be able to draw somewhere around 100W-150W out of one...hence the very long recharge times listed for 12V input.
To get any reasonable recharge time from your vehicle, you'd have to use the 20A Anderson Power Pole input intended for solar panels AND your vehicle charging system would have to supply >14V when running. And this needs to be >14V at the input to the Yeti once all voltage drop in wiring is included. I suspect this is the problem that GZ is facing when trying to charge off 12V (nominal) systems. Unless they build in a DC-DC converter to the 12V kit or the unit itself, you don't have a high enough voltage source to properly charge the system. Solar and their internal charger give them the voltage needed.
You really need to think through your power needs and how you'll really be using a system like this before shelling out big money...a lot of technical "gotchas" lurking.
Charging form the inverter when parked and the vehicle off would be an issue, but charging while driving isn't an issue at all, and if the fridge is all thats running off the GZ when driving, inefficiency isn't really an issue unless you have a vehicle with a small output electrical system. Using an inverter while the driving with my Tundra, output is great, and I don't worry about inefficiency, as it doesn't effect the system anyway as long as I'm motoring down the road.
Power loss due to an inverter becoming an issue would be far more prevalent when parked and simply draining batteries.