"Godzilla" HDJ81 Expedition Overland Build

[1HaytchZed]

'93 HDJ81 He's green and Japanese.... Godzilla
Beginning to baseline. Will update with pics when the weather gets better.

• New 315/75/16 BFG KO2s
• ProComp 16" Matte Black Alloy wheels 7069
• ProComp ES9000 shocks
• 4" lift springs
• LCP Gullwing windows

Baselining completed thus far:

• 23303-64010 OEM Fuel Filter
• Ran 2 cans of the LiquiMoly Diesel Purge through the fuel filter, plan is to run another 3-4 more.

https://products.liqui-moly.com/diesel-purge-3.html

• ACSD Deleted
  • ACSD delete service bulletin
  • ACSD Delete Question
• Cooling system flushed, OEM Toyota red coolant
• ATF replaced
• Transfer case oil replaced
• Differential oil front/rear replaced
• New BEBs replaced (3/16/19), pics in following post
• New OEM Cap bolts (3/16/19)
• 00295-00103 OEM Seal Packing / FIPG (3/16/19)

• 90915-30002 New OEM Oil Filter, still available (3/16/19)
• Liqui Moly DIesel 15W-40 (10L) (3/16/19)
• Liqui Moly Engine Flush (3/16/19)
  • 1 can / 5 liters of oil, so you need 2 cans for a proper engine flush

https://products.liqui-moly.com/oils/touring-high-tech-diesel-special-oil-15w-40-1.html

https://products.liqui-moly.com/pro-line-engine-flush-1.html

• Oil Separator / Oil catch can (4/20/19)
  • Mann Provent 200 install to eliminate oil migration rom crankcase to turbo and eventually to the intake

Near Future:

• Inspect brakes, rotors, brake lines
  • need extended brake lines, some stretch while on a lift
• 17801-68030 OEM Air Filter

Parts ordered / Sitting on shelf:

• Timing Belt and associated parts (partsouq.com)
  • 13568-19065
    • $38.41
    • Timing Belt (@98k kms the original timing belt was replaced according to sticker)
  • 13505-17011
    • $96.52
    • Timing Belt Idler Pulley / Tensioner
  • 90507-27003
    • $4.97
    • Idler Pulley / Tensioner Spring
  • 16100-19235
    • $107.27
    • Water pump w gasket
  • 11213-17010
    • $11.26
    • Cover gasket
  • 90311-32020
    • $5.33
    • Oil pump seal
  • 90311-58006
    • $6.64
    • Oil seal (belt cover) No. 1
  • 90311-58007
    • $7.68
    • Oil seal (belt cover) No. 2
  • 17115-17010
    • $1.24
    • Intake manifold gasket
  • 16284-17010
    • $4.44
    • Turbo water hose
  • 16572-17010
    • $13.48
    • Radiator outlet hose
  • 16571-17010
    • $11.82
    • Radiator inlet hose
  • 90916-03089
    • $14.97
    • Thermostat
  • 16346-66020
    • $2.38
    • Thermostat gasket
  • 16401-54750
    • $12.83
    • Radiator cap
  • 90916-02452
    • $33.87
    • Fan / Alternator belt
  • 17179-17010 (5)
    • $3.93
    • Intake manifold no. 2 gasket
  • 17171-17010
    • $3.93
    • Intake manifold exhaust gasket
  • 90210-08019 (3)
    • $1.38
    • washer
  • 11328-17010
    • $17.75
    • Timing gear cover gasket
  • 99332-11260
    • $20.41
    • AC belt (not in stock, ordered Bosch belt below)
    • 19879-47665
      • $6.47
      • AC belt (Bosch)
  • Shipping to US
    • $68.70
    • $13.85

• Delta Vehicle Systems - Dual Battery Electronics Mount Plate - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/dual-battery-electronics-mount-plate
• Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ/FZJ80 Caster Correcting Front Radius Arms - $825.00
• Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ80/FZJ80 Panhard Lift Bracket - $250.00
• REDBACK 4X4 EXTREME DUTY - 4X4 PERFORMANCE EXHAUST TO SUIT TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES (1990 - 1997)
• Brake upgrade
  • HDJ81 Brake Upgrade - With Part #s and Pics
  • Upon further inspection, sounds like the post-92 MYs came with the larger calipers/rotors, but its a great upgrade thread nonetheless
• Dawes Devices MkII Boost Controller
  • Dawes Devices MK II Hybrid Diesel Boost Controller
• Auber Instruments EGT Gauge
  • SYL-1813-MR round type
• Auber Instruments EGT Probe
  • TC-KEGTS K type thermocouple
• Auber Instruments Boost Sensor
  • Auber-303 3 bar diesel boost sensor

 

[1HaytchZed]

3/16/19, 166k kms.

Completed replacing the BEBs (Big-End Bearings, aka Connecting Rod bearings) along with the connecting rod cap bolts, since the old ones do stretch a little. It took me 5 hours to complete it. I also let the oil pan settle and FIPG to form over night before I filled it with oil.
Also, plastigaged and numbers were within range, crank looked real good. I also had retired Toyota mechanic swing by and take a look at the internal, journals, crank and the bearings, and he thought the engine had 10-15k miles, he was quite amazed at its condition.

The oil pan had never been removed as far as i could tell, the FIPG was whitish/beige color and it looked like it wasn't applied manually. I also took a blow torch to the pan after I cut the FIPG with my awsome tool pictured below. Its a 20ga AL Simpson timber tie, angled at 90 deg. Another mud member had used it and it worked beautifully. I also removed the two transmission brackets on either side of the oil pan, made life much easier.

32mm socket to be used on the front of the crank to turn to get to the other bearings, have to remove the small inspection/bash plate.

Also, when installing new cap bolts, its a good idea to mark the bolt with a dot with a paint marker so that the 90 deg (27 ft. lb. + 90 deg) turn part is easy to gauge.

Here are pics of the pan before and after removal.

 

[1HaytchZed]

BEBs, T for top and B for bottom.
None of the marks had any depth that I could feel with my fingers, they were pretty superficial and look worse in pics. The tops were much worse than the bottoms.

 

[1HaytchZed]

Wire wheel on the oil pan removed all of the old FIPG. If you use the OEM FIPG, make sure it comes with the extracting tool, its a small tool you place on the end of the tube and rotate which forces ~100% of the material out of the toothpaste type tube, I shall use it on my actual toothpaste tube.

Also, I cleaned out the oil pan with some gasoline and blew it dry with compressed air.
There are 24 bolts and 3 nuts with studs. I tried practicing a dry fit of the pan before I FIPG'd and it was quite difficult to get the pan to line up on the studs. Others indicated enlargening the holes for the 3 studs and so I used a step up drill bit and increased the diameter by a single step, this was adequate to get the studs to line up rather easily.


This is the tool I made out of a flat Simpson timber tie to cut the old FIPG in place. once inserted, it can be easily hammered down the length of the oil pan.

 

[1HaytchZed]

Only the best for my baby.
90915-30002 is NOT the same as the 90915-30002-8T (made in Thailand), search and you will find the details. Also, this is the oil filter what came off of it, maybe it was the one used in Japan. I can't find it online anywhere but its build quality was quite nice, I should have cut it in half.
AMC brand, AO-228, made in Malaysia.

 

[1HaytchZed]

I had all sorts of water issues, beginning with the sunroof drips and not draining. Cleared the 4 lines from the sunroof down to the rocker panels. After a few rain storms noticed a whole bunch of swooshing sounds, as if a tidal wave is about to hit me...
Pulled the rocker panel plus and cleared the slits (Toyota's poorly designed drains for an offroad / expeditionary travel vehicle) with a ziptie and about 2 gallons of water came pouring out of the rocker panels.

The slits are right above the bottom most body seam behind the steps, and can be felt with the fingers if you follow the body seam back, roughly 8" from the front of that seam.

The 2nd pic is of the inside of the rocker panel, you can see one of the plugs there.

 

[1HaytchZed]

Throwing this Provent 200 on this weekend.

 

[Arktikos]

Where are you located? Lets see some pics, weather be damned.

 

[1HaytchZed]

Where are you located? Lets see some pics, weather be damned.

ha. I'm in the NE (VT/NH). still no pics, waiting to at least get a car wash...

 

[1HaytchZed]

Installed a Provent 200 this morning.
I thought this would be a nice spot for install, right where the brake master cylinder mates with the brake booster.

1/8" AL flat plate with some holes, cuts and a bend. It's a little tricky to squeeze the bent piece behind the reservoir and to get the studs through the holes, but with enough patience and iterations, it is do-able. I had to re-bend the AL 4-5 times to get it right. It's awfully close to the brake lines, but its quite stable.

 

[1HaytchZed]

Finished product.

 

[1HaytchZed]

This is interesting reading, will have to see if anyone went this route and feedback

http://www.munroracingturbochargers.com.au/Landcruiser.CT26.html

STOCK BILLET UPGRADE


CT26 (customers turbo) ...........$1300 AUD
EXCHANGE(Genuine Toyota).................$1450 AUD

This option is highly efficient and designed purely for better than stock ct26 response and reliability. It will flow more than stock and produce more torque at all revs but not designed as a high power, "big power/boost" turbo, so boost is recommended for stock psi to18psi max. Yet it will outflow, out spool and more reliable and efficient than the stock ct26 turbo. Good for those looking for a good value, significant step up from stock in many ways, yet retain a simple system and improve reliability.

Comes with a special design larger High flow and efficient, Billet Compressor wheel machined to the tightest tolerances.

• Rebuilt and balanced using highest quality seals and bearings,
• CHRA and VSR balanced
• Lapped Wastegate seat for a tight seal which helps early spool.
• Ported Turbine housing to speed gas entry to assist spool
• Adjustable high quality wastegate actuator

 

[1HaytchZed]

https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/fj80-fzj80-lx450-shifter-console-auto

This mod alone is good for +25hp

 

[1HaytchZed]

Delta Vehicle Systems - AR (anti-rattle) Mount - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/ar-anti-rattle-mount
Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ/FZJ80/LX450 Modular Storage System - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/fj-fzj80-lx450-ceiling-storage-rack

Mounted the Delta AR on the MSS. It’s pretty stout.