Looks like a plan!
For idler and pitman arms:
IMO ONLY buy AC Delco originals, or go with something like the Kryptonite as a higher $ option. I did not like the Moog's HD line fitment (And I am a fan/ usually default to moog's Problem solver HD parts) However, I could not i get the arms to fully seat on the steering box.) I l am currently testing the Cognito idler/ pitman braces and I must say they helped the steering feel a ton (not as vauge) and should add a ton of strength. They add money though$ but IMO I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing anything on stock size idler/ pitman on 35's, which I am heading towards
Tie-rods:
I like the sleeves on my tie-rods, as I feel the total strength is higher than the "slightly upgraded" HD Moog's I had before. The sleeves are only $30-40 so just do them along with AC Delco replacements at once. I was going to stick with the Moog's but my lift kit was packaged with the Sleeves, so i figured I'd try them. It's plus minus on whether sleeves are better or the Moog's being thicker. IMO It would be Stock size< MOOG HD< Stock size with sleeves< Cognito or other brand super ultra thick tie rods. For the ultra thick ones, I think Bolrig or someone just installed them on their truck and posted a picture a few weeks ago. They look like serious hardware. They are $ though.
Ball Joints:
Lower and upper ball joints are a PITA. Seriously. I broke two tools on the lower getting them out. Worth it to just pay a shop 40-50 to press them out and in with a hydraulic press when you do the lift kit because the LCA have to come off anyway. I like the new Moog's ball joints with the better designed grease boot for the lowers. If spending $, I went to the Cognito UCA and really, really like them however they seemed to raised the price recently so they are also $. They will work with any lift kit that doesn't touch the UCA's (so 99% of the kits).
Overview:
Mostly everything is plug and play with most lift kits. Only thing I have found not to be, as mentioned is the thicker Moog tierods won't fit with sleeves, but that's not a big deal.
For the 33's vs 35's I am on 33's now, with a 6 inch lift. I am going to go to 35's when they wear out. IMO you need a full 5-6 inch lift, and not the 4" to fit the 35's without seriously trimming, if you have a real suspension that articulates. As can be seen in my pictures, my setup buries the tires, and even with the 6 inch, my 33's do touch. With 35's instead of touching, they will slightly rub most likely. With less lift, it would become problematic. If you aren't maxing the suspension, than that may be a different story and would be fine. For trail ability, again like the 6 inch lift made a huge difference in my mannerism on trails. Before, any rock bigger than a certain size I would have to creep over. Now, it's not on my radar. With 35's this ability will again be there to not have to worry about dragging my diff on as much stuff being an inch higher again.
On bull bars My advice would to either have it stay down low, and just be the bull bar/ mount for the winch. The brush guards usually just turn into mangled thin wall steel bending into your headlights with any impact with a tree/ etc. If you really want a brush guard bull bar, make sure it's a real deal thick wall. I think money would be better spent saving for a real custom bumper you could have made locally a little above the price of a true brush gaurd bull bar.
I've been doing research on snorkels (going to do it this summer) and found this whcih seems to be a quality piece, and much cheaper than the other options. Also, Jelorian installed it on his truck to success and he seems to like it? The pictures look great.
https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Snorkel-...rd_wg=LgsBM&psc=1&refRID=G07EHJEMENZSRJ5ZTN40
