snowblind
Adventurer
Hey UP.
I figured you might want my take on this. PM me if you want to talk on the phone one day. Might be easier.
I've been disappointed by the bumpers for these trucks. If I had the disposable $$ I would probably look to Ruenel and expect to do a little custom work. http://reunel.com/rear-bumpers/
My advice is to just bite the bullet and replace everything that hasn't already been replaced. Upper/Lower ball joints, tierod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, bump stops, bushings, hubs/wheel bearings brake calipers and brake lines.
Of course you can skip/wait on replacing any of these things but if you're adding bigger tires all that stuff will see increased wear/stress and will fail quickly. I would rather do proactive work than repair work.
The ONLY bumper I've seen for these trucks that I like is this one. Availability and pricing looks like it is TBA http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...2002-Chevy-Tahoe-Build?highlight=tahoe+bumper
Winch is expensive if you don't use it. Just saying.
Looks cool. Do you drive a lot of dusty roads?
I think you need to move away from the factory racks to gain the strength needed for a real platform rack.
Personally I would not go this route due to the resulting "Top-Heaviness" - I used two Yakima cargo boxes to haul tents, clothes, sleeping bags, etc, a few years back and adding just that small amount of weight up high made the sub handle very poorly in turns and especially off road. On tight, rocky trails the truck HEAVED from side to side. I try to keep the roof free from weight now.
Big things to consider in a lift:
How much does it drop the front diff?
Does it include knuckles to raise the tierods?
How much does it increase front width/track?
Everything on a lift kit is a compromise/workaround to factory design. Torsion Bar crank increases CV angles so you get a Diff Drop lift but that increases the front driveline angle coming from the transfer case. I think it is super important to have accurate info on how/where you want to drive realistic goals as to what can be accomplished.
One thing about most GMT800 lift kits - They don't give any more travel! If it were me I would be looking to a custom front coil-over setup that ADDS suspension travel.
35" tire puts a big limit on available tire choice. Check that the tire you want to run is available in the size you want. I stick with 285/70/17s for this reason.
Wheel offset matters and you can modify the front fenders for some better clearance without lifting too high. With my mild lift, no front spacers and 285/70/17s on Hummer wheels the truck gets sprayed by the front tires. Wider tires / wide lift will make this worse. Found any fender flares you like?
I would look at a trailer. Yes they can be expensive but they offer SO much flexibility over a roof top tent. All your gear is there ready for family trips and you leave it at home if you go without family.
Sleeping in the back just makes sense some times. Just make sure that "removed easily" doesn't mean poorly mounted. It would suck to have storage boxes flying around inside the truck during a roll over.
What type of trails? Mud or rock/desert? What is your gearing? I have 3.73s (or whatever is the tall stock) and that is too tall for the 285/70/17s.
Matt
I figured you might want my take on this. PM me if you want to talk on the phone one day. Might be easier.
Over the next couple of years I am looking to do the following
Summer 2017
Rear bumper with tire swingout, integrated receiver, recovery points, and trailer hookups.
I've been disappointed by the bumpers for these trucks. If I had the disposable $$ I would probably look to Ruenel and expect to do a little custom work. http://reunel.com/rear-bumpers/
Front end refresh (idler arms, tie rods, bushings as needed) The front end is all still original and at 150,000 miles now starting to feel a little loose and vague.
My advice is to just bite the bullet and replace everything that hasn't already been replaced. Upper/Lower ball joints, tierod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, bump stops, bushings, hubs/wheel bearings brake calipers and brake lines.
Of course you can skip/wait on replacing any of these things but if you're adding bigger tires all that stuff will see increased wear/stress and will fail quickly. I would rather do proactive work than repair work.
Bull bar, ARB, still not sure if this will be this summer or next. Winch for said bull bar
The ONLY bumper I've seen for these trucks that I like is this one. Availability and pricing looks like it is TBA http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...2002-Chevy-Tahoe-Build?highlight=tahoe+bumper
Winch is expensive if you don't use it. Just saying.
Snorkel/raised intake
Looks cool. Do you drive a lot of dusty roads?
Roof basket, preferably flat style to allow gear hauling or canoe/kayak hauling and still allow a RTT when needed.
I think you need to move away from the factory racks to gain the strength needed for a real platform rack.
Personally I would not go this route due to the resulting "Top-Heaviness" - I used two Yakima cargo boxes to haul tents, clothes, sleeping bags, etc, a few years back and adding just that small amount of weight up high made the sub handle very poorly in turns and especially off road. On tight, rocky trails the truck HEAVED from side to side. I try to keep the roof free from weight now.
Next year
Suspension upgrade: more clearance, not sure if I want to stick with 33's or bump up to 35's. So somewhere between 4-6" of lift.
Big things to consider in a lift:
How much does it drop the front diff?
Does it include knuckles to raise the tierods?
How much does it increase front width/track?
Everything on a lift kit is a compromise/workaround to factory design. Torsion Bar crank increases CV angles so you get a Diff Drop lift but that increases the front driveline angle coming from the transfer case. I think it is super important to have accurate info on how/where you want to drive realistic goals as to what can be accomplished.
One thing about most GMT800 lift kits - They don't give any more travel! If it were me I would be looking to a custom front coil-over setup that ADDS suspension travel.
35" tire puts a big limit on available tire choice. Check that the tire you want to run is available in the size you want. I stick with 285/70/17s for this reason.
Wheel offset matters and you can modify the front fenders for some better clearance without lifting too high. With my mild lift, no front spacers and 285/70/17s on Hummer wheels the truck gets sprayed by the front tires. Wider tires / wide lift will make this worse. Found any fender flares you like?
RTT: family sized to make for easy traveling and setup with kiddos on long trips.
I would look at a trailer. Yes they can be expensive but they offer SO much flexibility over a roof top tent. All your gear is there ready for family trips and you leave it at home if you go without family.
Modular storage system that can be removed easily for hauling mountain bikes inside or installed for trips with no bikes. Probably make a sleeping platform on top to allow quick and dirty sleeping inside truck using the space behind the second row.
Sleeping in the back just makes sense some times. Just make sure that "removed easily" doesn't mean poorly mounted. It would suck to have storage boxes flying around inside the truck during a roll over.
I know there is a ton of feedback on lifts on here and online but anyone have any specific, condensed feedback you want to offer here? Specifically with trailability of 33's vs 35's with the various lifts and their effects on onroad driving.
What type of trails? Mud or rock/desert? What is your gearing? I have 3.73s (or whatever is the tall stock) and that is too tall for the 285/70/17s.
Matt