Grasshopper's DII Build

pnorvell

Adventurer
Looks good bud! I know there are many different views on this, but you might think of storing the Hi-Lift either inside the vehicle, making sure it has a solid mounting point, or on top of the rack. I would think that having it mounted on the side like that you would be more prone to rub it up against a tree etc etc. With those mounts you have the freedom to move it around to your liking! Just a thought as I know many people have said this. Looking great!

Peter
 

grasshopper104

Adventurer
Looks good bud! I know there are many different views on this, but you might think of storing the Hi-Lift either inside the vehicle, making sure it has a solid mounting point, or on top of the rack. I would think that having it mounted on the side like that you would be more prone to rub it up against a tree etc etc. With those mounts you have the freedom to move it around to your liking! Just a thought as I know many people have said this. Looking great!

Peter

Thanks for the advice. I'm still experimenting with it at this point to see where I like it. That 60" hi-lift is a tough one to mount in other locations. will it even fit inside across the back floor? I suppose I can get off my ******** and try it. If only I weren't at work right now.
 

grasshopper104

Adventurer
Here is a better shot of the flooring on the roof rack. I got 250lb tensile strength zip ties from www.buycableties.com Probably over kill - but the flooring isn't going any where.

P5310437.jpg


Still have to wire my Rallye 4000s. Any advice on how to get the side finisher on the windscreen off. Here is the description out of the RAVE:

1. Push centres from 3 trim clips securing finisher
to 'A' post.
2. Remove trim clip outers from finisher.
3. Release finisher from 3 spring clips.
4. Remove finisher.

I've tried pushing in the pins and haven't had any luck. Any other advice on doing the lights is welcome.
 
Last edited:

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I can't help with the pins, because mine were already buggered up by a half-assed windshield replacement job. There were miscellaneous other pins in place. Are you sure you're not supposed to pull the pins?

Anyway, once you get the pins out, boy, it's hard to describe... the front edge of the finisher by the windshield stays in place, and you're kind of rotating the finisher around that front edge. So the holes where the pins were in the finisher will slide past the holes those pins plugged into.

It's really hard to describe. Just be careful, because whoever did my windshield buggered the whole thing off, broke the spring clip tabs and ended up glueing the finisher back on with windshield sealant... :Wow1:
 

leeawalden

Adventurer
I just drilled a hole at the top of the a pillar, I believe 1/2" and then fished all the wires through there using a coat hanger. I have heard it is a PITA to pull the a pillar cover off and get it back on. I ran all of the hot wires to the accessory place on the battery + post and all of the ground wires to the ground bar (follow the negative battery cable back a little ways and you will see it right behind the jack box). There is a little rubber boot that runs a lot of wires inside the car on the drivers side fire wall and I just poked through it with a coat hanger and ran the switch wires through there. I used silicone to protect the two holes I made and never had problems since. I would avoid splicing into to trucks wiring harness. There are a few good threads on dweb about it.
 

michaels

Explorer
I ran all of the hot wires to the accessory place on the battery + post and all of the ground wires to the ground bar (follow the negative battery cable back a little ways and you will see it right behind the jack box). There is a little rubber boot that runs a lot of wires inside the car on the drivers side fire wall and I just poked through it with a coat hanger and ran the switch wires through there.

X2, except i ran the wires through the rubber boot on the passenger side, putting my fuse/relay panel behind the glove box and put the switches in panel directly above the TC/CDL shifter, just below the climate controls. you can't even see them from the driveseat. they have little LEDs that glow when they are on that lightly shine onto the shifter/console below it.
 

grasshopper104

Adventurer
thanks for the insight on the lights. I've got my work cut out for me on this one. I rewired a CJ7 last year, but that was a piece of cake compared to what i've seen in the wiring harness of the disco.
 

grasshopper104

Adventurer
Some new issues! My rear driver side door latch doesn't work any more. Well, neither does the front one - but I can live w/ that b/c there is the key latch I can use to gain entry. What part do I need? is it the door actuator?

Thinking about taking advantage of AB sale this weekend for Father's Day - I need a ladder and the wiring kit for the Hella 4000s that I haven't mounted yet.
 

Crookthumb

Adventurer
Is there an adjustment nut that can be tightened on the D2s? I know when the door handle latch doesn't work properly on D1s you can tighten the nut and it works better, or has a part failed? You have to take off the interior panel to gain access to the adjustment nut.
 

grasshopper104

Adventurer
Well - I'm doing it. I'm about to order the HiCountry Offroad rear bumper and swing out tire carrier. They are having a 40% off sale right now on all products, so its the right time to buy. I don't think I can really afford it, but at that price how can I not jump at the offer? Pics to follow once I get it and do the install. That being said I've to a rear bumper w/ G4 light guards for sale. It's in near perfect condition. $300 OBO.
 

michaels

Explorer
Well - I'm doing it. I'm about to order the HiCountry Offroad rear bumper and swing out tire carrier. They are having a 40% off sale right now on all products, so its the right time to buy. I don't think I can really afford it, but at that price how can I not jump at the offer? Pics to follow once I get it and do the install. That being said I've to a rear bumper w/ G4 light guards for sale. It's in near perfect condition. $300 OBO.

i need a thumbs down icon. their products don't have a finished look to them all all. ugly welds, and bad design. you're killing your DII with this bumper.
 

grasshopper104

Adventurer
i need a thumbs down icon. their products don't have a finished look to them all all. ugly welds, and bad design. you're killing your DII with this bumper.

What are you running on yours again? My problem came down to money - with HCO's 40% off sale it fills the interim. The swing out tire carrier from RTE and SG are just too damn expensive right now. McVickOffroad seems to like his and truth be told its better than the stock bumper i've got now.
 

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