Alloy
Well-known member
If you haven't already.....a little silicone grease will prevent the dissimilar metals from corroding like crazy.
Great White: A Chevy K10 Build
- Thread starter Ouiwee
- Start date
If you haven't already.....a little silicone grease will prevent the dissimilar metals from corroding like crazy.
I use anti-seize on all threads and have had no trouble so far.
What I have seen is road salt that soaks all the way back into chassis and driveline bolts. It is hard to believe until you see it first hand. It would sure be nice to live in a western state without the worry of road salt and perpetual humidity.
Adventurous
Explorer
Ugh, tell me about it. After growing up in New England I was spoiled working on cars in CO. Just moved back and was unpleasantly reminded what I was missing when a simple sway bar end link swap required the angle grinder.
Antiseize on all bolts in this house too. Fluid film on the underside and inside rockers, tailgate, and fenders. Going to stay out in the front of the rust this time around.
Alloy
Well-known member
Years ago I used anti-seize on aluminum but I'd find that shortly things would be seized together....... at some point I was told the copper/zinc in it increases corrosion between aluminum and steel.
I got the side storage lockers painted and installed. I'll be sticking the bed rack on there soon for a trip coming up.
I took some time to work over the radiator overflow tank. I changed the location and shape to free up some space.
The bosses on the side are to mount a fuse block.
I ordered a vintage air unit to replace the factory AC and heater. The unit fits completely inside the cab, so I'll have the firewall open to mount fuse boxes and the ECU.
I'm attempting to make room for a second battery that will go in the stock location. The plan is to rework the electrics once I have the vintage air unit installed.
I'll post some pictures here along the way once I get started.
I took some time to work over the radiator overflow tank. I changed the location and shape to free up some space.
The bosses on the side are to mount a fuse block.
I ordered a vintage air unit to replace the factory AC and heater. The unit fits completely inside the cab, so I'll have the firewall open to mount fuse boxes and the ECU.
I'm attempting to make room for a second battery that will go in the stock location. The plan is to rework the electrics once I have the vintage air unit installed.
I'll post some pictures here along the way once I get started.
The stock AC is removed and the new Vintage Air unit is installed. Here is how the firewall looks without the 'suitcase' and blower motor.
A test fit and mark up of the panel using two stock bolts to locate.
It's about time to rebuild the King shocks. They have begun to creak slightly and it has been 30k miles or so.
The kit comes with some sheet metal screws, but I installed stainless rivnuts instead so I could use stainless M6 bolts.
Since I was by my lonesome to install this thing, I used thread stock rather than bolts from the engine compartment. This way, I could get the unit into proper position from the inside and prop it up. Then I installed nuts on the firewall to secure the unit.
The instructions mention removing two bolts on the side to provide more room to slide the unit in from the bottom...I'm not sure it will go in there with the bolts installed.
A test fit and mark up of the panel using two stock bolts to locate.
It's about time to rebuild the King shocks. They have begun to creak slightly and it has been 30k miles or so.
The kit comes with some sheet metal screws, but I installed stainless rivnuts instead so I could use stainless M6 bolts.
Since I was by my lonesome to install this thing, I used thread stock rather than bolts from the engine compartment. This way, I could get the unit into proper position from the inside and prop it up. Then I installed nuts on the firewall to secure the unit.
The instructions mention removing two bolts on the side to provide more room to slide the unit in from the bottom...I'm not sure it will go in there with the bolts installed.
The room provided by the swap is prodigious.
I have yet to relocate the ground strap that attaches to the engine. Connecting the refrigerant lines should not be too much fuss. The wiring is straightforward, but I need to determine how to wire the trinary switch with the ability to turn off fans and the compressor when/if doing a water crossing.
I have yet to relocate the ground strap that attaches to the engine. Connecting the refrigerant lines should not be too much fuss. The wiring is straightforward, but I need to determine how to wire the trinary switch with the ability to turn off fans and the compressor when/if doing a water crossing.
The AC is installed and wiring completed. It works well at least in low 90's temperatures.
I've had some time to work on a front sway bar. It isn't obvious how to do it given all that is going on under there.
Sorting out where the brackets would go on the axle was the tricky part. I haven't yet finish welded them on, but testing indicates all is good.
A PDF of the brackets is attached in the case that someone out there might be interested in this solution.
I've had some time to work on a front sway bar. It isn't obvious how to do it given all that is going on under there.
Sorting out where the brackets would go on the axle was the tricky part. I haven't yet finish welded them on, but testing indicates all is good.
A PDF of the brackets is attached in the case that someone out there might be interested in this solution.
Pull the pin and the sway bar disconnects. I'm going to weld the bolt on the axle bracket and have a quick release pin on the bottom as well. Then, I can just use a velcro strap or something to pull the bar up out of the way if I need to do some serious wheeling.
The only issue I can see is that when the wheel is turned to the left just right and the pitman arm is in just the right place and the left wheel is stuffed, the rod end on the sway bar link could hit the pitman arm. The trouble is that the sway bar is fighting the wheel being stuffed and rolls the truck out of the way. If a hump was hit by the left wheel when turning left just right, compression of the suspension on that side could cause an impact. Outside of an accident scenario, I'll just stop and pull the pins to disconnect the sway bar.
The truck drove well without the sway bar, but would rock left and right. The sway bar has made a tremendous improvement in the ride quality on the road. Oddly enough, it seems to require far less steering input as well for some reason.
I'm thinking about doing something similar in the rear since it would be so much easier. I think it might matter once I get the bed rack on there with more weight up high in the rocking back and forth.
I've got about 35k miles on the engine so far. I haven't had so much as a hiccup or any form of issue. It has been perfectly reliable. I'm considering adding an ethanol sensor so that I could run a wider range of fuel...and get maybe 50 more horses or so.
The only issue I can see is that when the wheel is turned to the left just right and the pitman arm is in just the right place and the left wheel is stuffed, the rod end on the sway bar link could hit the pitman arm. The trouble is that the sway bar is fighting the wheel being stuffed and rolls the truck out of the way. If a hump was hit by the left wheel when turning left just right, compression of the suspension on that side could cause an impact. Outside of an accident scenario, I'll just stop and pull the pins to disconnect the sway bar.
The truck drove well without the sway bar, but would rock left and right. The sway bar has made a tremendous improvement in the ride quality on the road. Oddly enough, it seems to require far less steering input as well for some reason.
I'm thinking about doing something similar in the rear since it would be so much easier. I think it might matter once I get the bed rack on there with more weight up high in the rocking back and forth.
I've got about 35k miles on the engine so far. I haven't had so much as a hiccup or any form of issue. It has been perfectly reliable. I'm considering adding an ethanol sensor so that I could run a wider range of fuel...and get maybe 50 more horses or so.
I've been out and about some lately. Here is how driving through a train tunnel in Red River Gorge Kentucky looks.
Nada Tunnel
I stayed at the Cave Run Lake campground, which is a nice and convenient place to stay.
I managed to find some reasonably challenging off road trails not far from Indian Creek. There were a couple of places where I had to throttle through the ruts, which explains the large chunk of mud on the front diff.
I left the front sway bar on without any difficulty.
And for no good reason at all, here is what baby buzzards look like.
I'm off to Assateague State Park tomorrow for some beach side action.
Nada Tunnel
I stayed at the Cave Run Lake campground, which is a nice and convenient place to stay.
I managed to find some reasonably challenging off road trails not far from Indian Creek. There were a couple of places where I had to throttle through the ruts, which explains the large chunk of mud on the front diff.
I left the front sway bar on without any difficulty.
And for no good reason at all, here is what baby buzzards look like.
I'm off to Assateague State Park tomorrow for some beach side action.
I finally got the traction boards mounted on the rack. They fit perfectly and are out of the way.
I also added a tether to the pin that holds the swing-outs closed...three guesses why.
The beach was nice, if you don't mind swarms of biting flies and 97 degree temperatures.
I'm planning a trip to the Land Between the Lakes in western KY in a couple weeks. With any luck, the weather will cooperate.
I also added a tether to the pin that holds the swing-outs closed...three guesses why.
The beach was nice, if you don't mind swarms of biting flies and 97 degree temperatures.
I'm planning a trip to the Land Between the Lakes in western KY in a couple weeks. With any luck, the weather will cooperate.
4runnerteq
Explorer
Pleasure meeting you today. Awesome truck. Enjoy your time here. @Airmapper @jgatliff . Pretty sweet Chevy here
The pleasure is all mine. Thanks for the advice. You have a treasure there, but we only got to explore Land Between the Lakes for a few days.
We did manage to find the spot we discussed. It is beautiful.
One can see a few bald cypress knees sticking up out of the ground to the left in the picture above.
Right off the beach is a perfect camping space under shade of trees.
Getting to this spot requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle, but wasn't too difficult. The bog holes were not deep--less than two feet with a couple exceptions--and were solid on the bottom. The trails were tight but there was room enough for a full size truck. I suspect a winch would be necessary to get out right after a rain. The beach and camp site were immaculate.
I'm looking for a show of hands here about how bad an idea I have been kicking around.
At least I have a truck for testing, measuring, and mistakes.
Given the length of the run of tube and engine flow requirements, I bought 4.5" tube and bends. Another option would be dual 3" intakes, but routing the tube under the hood would be a mess.
I would not have guessed it, but one cannot see the tube from inside the cab. I suppose I could build it and determine whether I like it before cutting through all that nice paint on the other truck.
What say you?
At least I have a truck for testing, measuring, and mistakes.
Given the length of the run of tube and engine flow requirements, I bought 4.5" tube and bends. Another option would be dual 3" intakes, but routing the tube under the hood would be a mess.
I would not have guessed it, but one cannot see the tube from inside the cab. I suppose I could build it and determine whether I like it before cutting through all that nice paint on the other truck.
What say you?
Well, I managed to make it up to the Adirondack mountains. It sure is fall there.
They have roughly 130 free primitive camp sites available. I was surprised to see wolves, which nearly ran through my camp. The bugs are dead and night is utterly soundless since air travel is sparse (well, owls notwithstanding).
There seems a lot to see there, but perhaps I'll spend more time reconnoitering in the spring.
They have roughly 130 free primitive camp sites available. I was surprised to see wolves, which nearly ran through my camp. The bugs are dead and night is utterly soundless since air travel is sparse (well, owls notwithstanding).
There seems a lot to see there, but perhaps I'll spend more time reconnoitering in the spring.